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Jeep Wrangler



  • yjohnyjohn Posts: 32
    Thanks mac!

    I'm pretty sure it is both ranges. Do you know offhand how much that actuator is to replace? and how difficult? or do you think that investing in one of those 4x4 posi-locks is a better investment?
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    When in good working condition the factory part does an effective job but doesn't seem terribly robust.

    The Posi-Lock is a popular mechanically operated alternative. Appears well made, gives a positive engagment, but has the disadvantage of being rather pricy ($200+).

    A second alternative that may bear investigation is to DIY for around $20. See what you think.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    While I think of it, here's a link to an install of the Posi-Lock: Install Link.
  • Just count how many revolutions a wheel needs to turn to complete one revolution of the propshaft.

    Martin, I think you got this backward. Don't you count how many revolutions of the prop shaft to make one revolution of the wheel?

  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    I didn't realize you had a JK. My bad.

    TJ lift kit prices usually consist of (for a good one less than 4"):
    1. Longer Springs
    2. Longer shocks (still think OME is one of the best)
    3. Bump stop extensions
    4. Adj track bars or track bar relocation brackets

    Those are the MAJOR components. Higher end kits (like a $1,600 RE kit, would include adjustable control arms as well.

    DPG offroad sells several levels of OME kit (they are who I bought through) depending on your budget. Dirk knows OME VERY well and can help with making a selection.

    If you have a JK, I honestly don't know what is out there and was relaying what I knew about TJ's. Not sure if TJ shocks will work on a JK. Only limitations would be flex and how the shocks attach at each ends (bar pins or what).

    Honestly, I'd wait a bit to see more JK lift kits come out for it. When you only have 1 or 2, they pretty much dictate the pricing. As more come out, you should see prices become competitive again.

  • Is there a difference between a 15 inch wheel and a 16 inch wheel with a 35" tire. I would suspect that the larger the wheel (to a point)the more support the tire has and the less chance of loosing your beed when your tire has reduced air pressure? Does it impact performance that much?
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Yes, you're right, consider me embarrassed! :blush:

    (I think my fingers were trying to make my brain look bad.)
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    A 35" tire is a 35" tire, regardless of wheel size. :)

    It is just the size of the hole for the wheel to fit that matters. :)

    With a 15" wheel, you'll have more sidewall than you would with a 16" wheel.

    Performance wise, when you're talkin about a 35" tire, performance will be about the same. The issue is more with the width of the tire vs width of the wheel. I have an 8" wheel but running 12.5" wide tires and have had no problem airing down to about 14 psi for the trails. Never popped a bead.

  • Thanks Paul,

    I understand that a 35" is the same regardless of the wheel size. I was trying to understand if there is any performance difference with a larger wheel size given the same tire size... And you answered that question.

    Just from my engineering back ground, it would seem that the more flex you have in the side walls, the larger your tire contact when crawling. Just food for thought :D
  • Wasn't trying to embarrass you. You should see what my fingers do to my posts at times.


    PS - I had to type this one twice. It may still have errors.

  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910 would seem that the more flex you have in the side walls, the larger your tire contact when crawling.

    That's correct, though the difference between a 15" and 16" rim is negligable in its effect. Think of the difference between a 15" and 22" rim with a 35" tire and the picture becomes clearer.
  • yjohnyjohn Posts: 32
    Wow! that story sounded really familiar! I'll investigate my options and figure out what to do. By the way, how would i check to make sure that there is vacuum?
  • Mac,

    Just wanted to make sure we are on the same page... the 22" wheel would be a poor performer as the side walls have less flex.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Exactly. :)

    A more flexible sidewall doesn't make the tread any wider, but it can help it to wrap around a rock or stump for added traction.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910 would i check to make sure that there is vacuum?

    You could either use a vacuum gauge like this one:


    Available HERE or at most auto stores for about $10.

    Alternatively, you could remove the actuator housing (it's only held on by four bolts), then while the engine is running have a friend operate the t/c lever as you look at the actuator fork to see if it's moving correctly.

  • 4rider4rider Posts: 96
    I think another disadventage of larger wheel,22", is that it more likely gets side damage since there is much less rubber between the rim and the rock.
  • I have seen quite a bit of JK bashing in the past and just wanted to provide a link where a JK with no lockers climbs up a wall with out the use of a winch... JK at work.

    Great footage.
  • yjohnyjohn Posts: 32
    I got a frame from a 91 YJ to transplant into mine!

    Most of you probably don't know the story of my jeep. I got the '92 YJ in Septmeber of 05. A friend of my dad's was selling it because he was getting a new car. The guy only wanted $1000 for it. After my mechanic's inspection, he said that the frame was gone almost beyond repair. The back by the shackles were rusted out along with the section by the steering box. He also went down a list of everything else that it would need, and we figured I'd have $2500-$3000 into it when all was said and done. So, after talking him down to $800, and deciding that my other vehicle to be my first car (1976 AMC Pacer X) would wait and the Jeep would come home because I always wanted one, but the Pacer just kinda grew on me. 16 months later, i have a replacement frame and other things are going wrong left and right. But i put faith in the thought that i will be replacing all the wrong and will know what was done to the jeep instead of buying one for more money that could have the same problems. Plus, i figured that the American Racing rims and the Michelin tires on it were worth almost the purchase price.
  • jimlw2jimlw2 Posts: 122
    Hi Gang - I have an '05 Unlimited w/ 4.0 6-cylinder automatic and my commute has gone from 8 miles per day on backroads to 50 miles per day on mostly highway. After 7 months, my right foot says it's time to order and install the Mopar cruise control kit. Anyone have any experience doing this themselves? I haven't ordered the kit, yet...I'm assuming it'll have installation instructions but I'd appreciate any feedback before I spend the money. Thanks.
  • I have a 2005 Unlimited with a 2.5" OME lift and 32"x10.5" tires. I only have the soft top, so it actually rides more like 2.5" in the front and about 3" in the back. As the tires are wearing down, I find myself eyeing bigger sizes and trying to figure out the best way to go 33" or maybe someday 35". JKS makes a nice 1.25" body lift and I'm planning on going flat fender in the front for a little extra tire clearance. So...with that said...
    How can I even out my lift so that both front and rear are each around 4" or so? Coil spacer in the front? 3" springs?
    What happens when you go from a 2.5" spring to a 3" or 4" spring? Would I have to have an adjustable trackbar to make it work?
    Lots of questions...but thanks for any help or info.
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