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Comments
The 4cly models are cheaper new and less popular, which is why you've found them to be the "best" deals.
Yes, the 6 does have a near bulletproof reputation, but the 4 is also generally reliable and long lived. Regular maintenance is obviously a requirement for both engines.
mac24, "Jeep Wrangler" #15765, 5 Feb 2005 5:29 pm
and
keats, "Jeep Wrangler" #15769, 6 Feb 2005 6:38 pm
Yes, but a $4 per gallon price for gasoline hasn't been within earshot before either!
tidester, host
That's true Tidester, but there's really very little between the two and never has been...........maybe 1-2mpg! It's generally the difference in initial purchase the SE buyers find attractive.
-Mike
Still enjoying it. Still running great. Am able to deal with the MPG since I don't drive mine like Mtngal.
Hope to keep this puppy for another decade or so. After that I might be getting to old and stiff to get up in it.
Still a happy camper.
Payton Nicole, my grand daughter.
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
Just got in from taking the hard top off and putting on the soft top. The hard top cover I bought fits perfectly and was definitely worth the money. It totally encloses the top.
Next up is to finally place my order for the Jeeperman Trail Skids...
People in Maine and New Hampha wave at everyone!
tidester, host
I just ordered a '05 Wrangler Sport 2 weeks ago. The quoted lead time was 6-8 weeks (barf). I was just wondering if anyone has an idea if that is a correct estimation for the time frame.
I am really amped to get this one. I ordered every option for the Sport model except the engine block heater. I didn't mess with the stereo since the stock single CD is fine with me.
Semper Fi,
Mike
PS - This will be my second Wrangler. My first was a 2000 Sahara that I foolishly leased and didn't opt to buy it out. I currently am driving a '98 GC Limited. Before the Sahara I was driving a '95 Cherokee Sport. Out of all these, the Wrangler was the best time I had.
tidester, host
I don't know where you live, Mike, but the rail shipment will probably take as long as the process of building your Jeep from the time of order receipt to final inspection. I was fortunate enough to avoid rail shipment, since I live only about an eight hour drive from Toledo.
Stick around here and we will help you make it through the waiting period.
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
Is a 6-8 week ETA realistic? I figured that this late in the model year wait times would be shorter than in the beginning.
Thanks again.
Semper Fi,
Mike
If I had to bet, I would bet on two weeks to get it built and ten days for shipping, so 3.5 weeks to possibly 4 weeks.
Do you know how to track your order and then your shipment?
To track progress of the build, you have to call a DC 800 number, but first you need to get you VON (vehicle order number) from your dealer. Your first call to DC should get you your VIN (Vehicle Identification Number, of course). They may have set up a way to track via Internet, but when I was waiting for my Thelma Jane, they didn't have such a thing.
Once shipped, you can track the rail shipment. I don't remember enough about it to tell you how to do it, but you should be able to figure it out.
Factory orders are COOL! Thelma Jane is the first vehicle I have ever ordered out of all the new vehicles I have bought. The wait is worth it! You get EXACTLY what you want, and that puppy is YOURS from Day One of its existence. Be careful to preserve your window sticker. It will say something like "This vehicle specially built for Mike _______." For vehicles not ordered by an individual, they will just put the dealership's name in the blank.
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
Chris
I have the VIN & VON and I tried to call DCX, but they were closed for the night. If anybody does know how to track this online, please let me know.
thanks
Jeff
Zach
That is agreat pic of your grand-daughter with her 1st Jeep, My Caitlin still loves her Barbie Jeep. When we are driving around she can spot them faster than I can.
She has told me she wants a Jeep when she starts driving, which is only 9 years away.
Took Hard-top & doors off on Sunday, Great weather here in Bama, but these gas prices have gotta stop. whew over 30 bucks to fill a tank up. WHEW!
Called Chrysler, they recieved my last payment, now waiting on that title then TAZZ is all mine. We have BOTH of our vehicles paid off!!
Now another 11 years house will be paid for.
KEEP JEEPIN & ROLL TIDE
Bama
I don't think you could be more vague if you tried!
More details please, like what do you want to achieve, what's your budget, off-road or street, etc., etc.?
Oh, regarding the roll bar, this isn't a trading forum (as I expect one of our hosts will tell you soon!). Try eBay for a reasonable chance of finding one.
In fact it took less than 30 seconds to find you one. Try this:
Roll Bar on eBay
Yeah, but she ain't waving!
Congrats on the paid for rigs Tazz - I'm visiting family down South but only got to Georgia for BBQ. Maybe 'bama next time.
The Chick Flick tonight on TV is Coal Miner's Daughter - lots of Jeep scenes in that movie.
Steve, Host
Nice to see the old Bama Boy posting again.
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
Tomster
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
Welcome to the group. Make yourself at home.
I'm with ya on the four banger, and I don't live in the mountains (unfortunately). They are just fine on the trails, but on the highway, they simply don't have enough power to suit me, especially on long hills. I have test driven some and have driven some who belong to various friends. I'm not knocking those who own four bangers, cause they are still Jeeps. I would MUCH rather have a four banger than no Jeep at all. That's a no brainer.
Where in CO do you live? I LOVE CO! What a beautiful state!!!
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
You are smart to stay at two inches of lift or less, because you will most likely avoid driveline angle problems that way. Above two inches of lift, you are almost certain to need to correct the driveline angle by lowering the back end of the transfer case, or the VERY expensive slip yoke eliminator/cv driveshalf combination.
The U-joint connecting the transfer case slip yoke shaft (not sure if that would be the right term) to the drive shaft (propeller shaft they call them now, I guess) will only work within a certain range of angles. When you do a suspension lift, you are raising everything but the axles, so the transfer case gets higher in relation to the differential, thereby increasing the angle that the U-joint must work in.
You can get vibrations if you don't make some kind of correction to this angle. Most often, people simply lower the rear end of the transfer case. There are kits for this purpose, which are simply spacers that go between the transfer case skid and the frame.
The reason I tell you all of this is because you said you might want to go a little higher than two inches. That's fine, as long as you know that other things will have to be done to do it right.
Another thing about lifts over two inches is the almost certain need to re-center your axles with trac bar relocation or adjustable trac bars. The trac bar attaches to the axle somewhere near the middle on one end, and it attaches to the frame on the other end. This is what keeps the axle centered. Since the frame is raised higher in relation to the axle, the axle is pulled toward the side of the Jeep where the trac bar is attached to the frame. Makes sense if you think about it.
A two inch lift and a one inch body lift (almost anyone with some Jeepin' experience would say not to go over one inch on a body lift) will allow you to run 33" tires, but you might get a little rubbing on the flares with the sway bar disconnected for wheelin'.
Don't rush into anything. You were wise to post and ask opinions. Check things out before you do anything. You can sink LOTS of money into your Jeep and still not be happy, if you aren't careful.
Are you going to off road that Jeep, or is the lift/bigger tire combo just for looks? No, there's not a thing wrong with doing it just for looks, but it would make a difference as far as what would work and what wouldn't for tire size if you plan to disconnect your front sway bar for better articulation on the trails .
Feel free to ask more questions. Contact me via email (my email is public in my profile).
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
My criteria are:
1. Keep it reasonable!! My wife is 5'2" and I want her to be able to climb in easily still.
2. I don't want driveline vibes, like Tom mentioned.
3. With a D35 axle in the back, I didn't want too much rolling mass for tires, so I am limiting myself to 32's max (also my 4cyl wouldn't do well with >33's on the highway).
4. Ride as good as (or better than) stock.
I considered the budget boost, but didn't want spacers on my long-term suspension. I also have my front springs sagging a bit from being 8 years old. I've also added aftermarket bumpers, a Kilby gas skid, and soon a winch. That weight impacts ride quality on the stock suspension. A BB" would be higher, yes, but the spring rate would be the same, and would ride harsh with my extra stuff.
OME offers springs and shocks to give a good ride, and I've heard this from 98% of the people that know of and/or use OME. OME kits from places like DPGOffroad.com will sell the additional parts you need to keep your axles lined up and centered under your rig. Other lifts like the BB, may cause your axles to shift a bit to the passenger side and you'll need extra parts like a trackbar relocation bracket or adjustable trackbars to get them lined up. Some run with it off center like that, but I want my stuff lined up.
The budget boost alone will allow you to run 32's with no problem. With a 1" body lift, which takes the tub off the frame by 1" will allow you run 33's and you will have no problem with rubbing the tires while flexing offroad.
Backspacing of your wheels plays a role too. My stock Canyon wheels (and all stock wheels I think) have 5.5" of backspacing (Tom post your pic!
Hope this helps some. Feel free to ask away!
-Paul
Thanks for the info! I am really amped for the Jeep. I now remember how much I loved my 2000 Sahara. Now my '05 will be built with my name on it! Too cool! Too many exclamation marks....
I'll see if I can get a VON from my dealer. I'll post as soon as I find something out.
Semper Fi,
Mike
There is a backorder from DPG on it, so it will be a couple of weeks or so before it ships, but no biggie!
CAN'T WAIT!
-Paul
Tom, it looks like your 3.5-4 week estimate may be on the money. I'm going to call DC on Thursday to see if I can get an update. Got my fingers crossed....
Semper Fi,
Mike
I'm wishin' you the best of luck with the build and delivery. I know how tough the waiting is, but it is also kinda fun, and it is DEFINITELY worth it!
Keep us posted. Stick around and talk Jeep here to help with the wait.
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
I found a website that decodes VINs for you. It reported that the control number was wrong as a "4" and should be a "5". What gives? I input the new number based on the decode website to my ins. and it took, giving me the output that matches what I ordered.
I know it is possible for the dealer to have read the number wrong, but I read it back to him. Is Jeep doing something new? Or did the dealer most likely just mess up?
Semper Fi,
Mike
Not sure what a "control number" is, but my VIN starts out like this...
1J4FA49S31P______
Does that match the first characters of yours? Mine is an 01 Sport, so some of those numbers will change for yours, I guess.
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
Here is the beginning per the dealer:
1J4FA49S45T______
This is the VIN that fails.
The corrected VIN is:
1J4FA49S55T______
Here is how the decoder breaks the VIN down:
1 Country of Origin - USA
J Mfg. - Jeep
4 Type of Vehicle - Multi Purpose Vehicle
F GVWR
A Model - Wrangler
4 Series - Sport
9 Doors - 2 Door
S Engine - 4.0 liter, 6 cylinder, HO
4 Control digit - Failed check, should be 5
5 Year - 2005
T Plant - Toldeo, OH
x 1st digit of serial number
x 2nd digit of serial number
x 3rd digit of serial number
x 4th digit of serial number
x 5th digit of serial number
x 6th digit of serial number
The website goes on to give the formula behind determining the check number. It seems the place holder in the VIN varies from manufacturer to manufacturer.
Now, here is the interesting part. I changed the "T" in the dealer VIN to a "P" and the VIN passed the control digit check. It placed the plant of manufacture at Toledo #2. Maybe I misheard the "P" as a "T". Who knows. Either way I will still call Dc and verfiy on Thursday.
The website with the VIN decoder is in Russia, or at least registered as a Russian based server. You can perform a Google search for "Jeep VIN decoder 1.64" and find it as the first hit. Use at your own risk. I'm on a Mac, so I have little to worry about.
Semper Fi,
Mike
I think the diamon plate will complement the Rubi factory rockers nicely and add a whole more protection. These skidz are praised heavily on a Rubicon forum I frequent.
Paul, keep us up to date. I'm interested in OME down the line as well....
To post a picture you need to find a site that will host your pictures. Fortunately, we are unable to read pics directly off your hard drive!
For details on posting pics click on the "Forums Help" link in the left column of this page.
tidester, host
Jeeperman Skidz
tidester, host
About the 4 cyl vs. 6 cyl debate. I say the 6 cyl X models are a pretty good deal. Sort of an affordable spot between SE and Sport.
-Mike
By the way, did you follow up on the roll bar link I gave you?
It now looks much better than the 225 GSAs it came with, and quiter too. However the increased tire size at 30 x 9.50 does right a little rougher, looks like it is time to upgrade the shocks before these expensive premium tires would take a beating. Has anybody had any experience with Bilstein Heavy duty shocks, these are mono tube gas. I installed a set on my 87 Toyota 4 runner 10 years ago and the improvement was incredible. What I am curious is its use on TJ's only the short wheelbase coil spring variety. I am pretty set on doing this within 3 months, just need to know how much the improvement is.