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Jeep Wrangler

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Comments

  • tsjaytsjay Posts: 4,591
    Oh yeah, Turkey Bay has some very steep, twisty, rutted climbs that I don't even mess with now. Some of those MIGHT be doable with a front locker.

    I know where you're going with your thinkin', and I have also thought about it too. I don't want to get Thelma Jane so capable that I can't have any fun at Turkey Bay any more. But, I would say there is a LONG way to go before I got that far. :)

    Tom

    Have you hugged your Jeep today?
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Twylie,

    I was thinking the same thing too and I've seen similar posts. I have a soundbar from edgeauto dot com. It is actually neoprene encased with wood inside. Very nice, but I imagine I'd have to bolt it somehow.

    I'm not too keen on the idea of putting it on the hood as when I'm driving north, the cab will block the view (line of sight thing).

    Have you heard anything about the fabric (or fiberglass for that matter) tops cutting reception on XM? I have seen answers both ways, but nothing definitive.

    My other option is the Terk glass mount antenna and have that stick above the roofline a bit for unimpeded sight. I just worry about low branches then. I've even considered some of the 'mirror mount' truck antennas. They have a 48" one that would be nice on the back..

    -Paul
  • tsjaytsjay Posts: 4,591
    Those corner guards should serve both purposes. They look like they are big enough and shaped the right way to cover my existing damage, and they should be strong enough to resist further damage.

    Except where I have dents already, there will still be the original sheet metal behind these new panels, so that oughta make a pretty stiff laminate. The panels are 1/8th inch thick, so that's pretty tough stuff.

    Oh, by the way, I just found out that Quadratec sells a 12 gauge steel powder coated black corner panel made by Warrior Products for $99.95 per pair. Just my luck to find these AFTER I ordered from Poison Spyder for $117. How does 12 gauge steel compare to 1/8th inch steel? Same thing? The WPs are 12 gauge, and the PS's are 1/8th inch. Is this six of one and half a dozen of the other, or is there an appreciable difference?

    Tom

    Have you hugged your Jeep today?

    Tom

    Have you hugged your Jeep today?
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    12 gauge is 0.104", or just over a tenth of an inch, so the ones you've ordered are thicker.

    You can relax now!

    :--)
  • twylietwylie Posts: 619
    All this talk of corners has me thinking again (a dangerous proposition!) Anyone know of any rear corner guards that don't cover the entire rear corner like the ones tsjay ordered. I understand the thought process - if you cover the lower part of the corner, might as well protect the entire tub corner... However, for my wheeling I'm much more likely to come down on a rock between my tire and bumper than I am to lay it on the corner or bump into stuff that bangs the upper part of the tub. What I'm thinking of is something similar to the way the Rubicon (or angle iron) rocker guards mount. Up only 3-4 inches on the side and also give me some protection under the tub lip... I've searched high and low with no luck so far. I'm tempted to order a set of the Poison Spyder corners and take them to a machine shop; cut them down to about 3-4" up the tub and then have them scribe and weld 3/16" plate under the tub that runs back a few inches. I'll have to take some measurements and see if this is an option.

    Any other thoughts or opinions?

    -twylie
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    image

    These rather nasty YJ aluminum ones by Warrior are the only ones I know of.

    However, as you can see, they're only a simple right angle bend. It would be really easy to make some yourself in 1/8" steel. Probably about $10 in materials plus a large rattle can.
  • wheelsdownwheelsdown Posts: 250
    For the third time (dumb) I left the dome light on my 2000 TJ overnight. This runs the battery completely down. I even lose the presets on my radio. Each time, after I jump start it, it runs funny for a few minutes. This time I let it idle for a while. When I put it in gear it stalls. I have enough battery to restart it but it may stall up to three times before I can get it moving. For the first block or so, it runs erratically. Not missing or back firing, just kind of surging. It gets better pretty quickly and seems to recover completely in about a mile.

    My question is does the computer need to relearn its settings, or my driving habits? Do I need to do anything special to help it out?

    My "working on car" days were during the time of carburators, points and rotors. These high tech engine controls are beyond me.

    Terry
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Did you install your amp under your dash?

    If so, do you have any pics and/or dimensions of the amp and how you mounted it? I seem to recall that you did something like that.

    I've inherited my daughter's TJ but she's claiming the stereo system for her new car. So I get to get new stuff. :) I want a 5 channel amp or at least a way to run a sub (plan on using the Tuffy Stereo/speaker security console.

    If you want to contact me at my usual email that you've used previously you can or we can cover it here. I suspect I'll have a few questions if you have some time. :)

    -Paul
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    The only thing you really need to do is to stop leaving the dome light on!

    :--)

    Actually, your Jeep is behaving quite normally after having had the battery exhausted. It soon gets back to normal, but initially it's running at below 12 volts, which its computer doesn't like. The battery is soaking up all that the alternator can put out, and among other things, this is bad for both the alternator and the battery.

    The fact that your low wattage dome light will flatten the battery overnight is an indication that the battery capacity is much reduced, and that its failure is probably imminent. A healthy battery will probably run the headlights for the same length of time that yours ran the dome light.

    However, a car battery is really designed to provide a heavy discharge for a short period (starting) then to be kept topped up by a low amperage charge from the alternator. The high amperage available from the alternator is there to provide the current to run your headlights, stereo, A/C, foglights, HRW etc., etc., while the engine is running. The battery's not designed to be run flat and then recharged.

    The best way to deal with a flat battery (if you can), is either to recharge it before trying to start, or to temporarily replace it with a fully charged one. I know that this is not always an option, but there's invariably a price to pay when getting a jump start and letting your alternator dump its full output into a dead battery. That price is usually paid with a reduction in battery life.

    All the above was just as applicable in the days of points and carburetors. Regular lead-acid batteries have changed very little in the last fifty years!

    Don't feel intimidated by your Jeep............ there's more that's the same than has been changed. Engine controls are the only major difference. The rest of the engine, transmission, drivetrain, brakes, etc., use the same principles they've always done.

    ;--)
  • wheelsdownwheelsdown Posts: 250
    Thanks for the info mac. I figure 4+ years is pretty good for the OEM battery. Guess I need to start shopping.

    I am a retired mechanical engineer. I pretty much understand the mechanical parts of the TJ. I'm just at a point in my life where I just don't do my own work anymore.

    In my state, they don't even do the emission test anymore. They just plug into the OBD to see if the car will tell on it's self.

    Terry
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    You have a point there........... the early Jeeps would never squeal on you!
  • gman1259gman1259 Posts: 209
    I did not like the fact the doors on Ellie’mae opened a full 90°. It was too difficult in parking lot and my garage to keep the door from swinging out and hitting something.

    I installed shorter straps that I ordered of Ebay, and that seems to resolve my problem. It may work for you too. The company’s name is Jeepxtras, and they sell these straps as well as other things on Ebay all the time.

    Glen
  • twylietwylie Posts: 619
    another often suggested option to shorten the travel on the doors is to put a twist or two in the limit strap. This works, but I found that the strap has a greater tendancy to try and work itself off the sill pin when twisted. I keep meaning to sew a new seam in mine to offer a shorter opening.

    -twylie
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    It would be nice if the strap pins actually had some kind of overhang to keep the strap from coming off too easy... looks more like a T.

    -Paul
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    How is Camp Jeep set up for overnighting? Do you take tents or campers, or are the Camp Jeep participants expected to get hotels nearby?

    We are thinking about going to the Camp Jeep in CA in August, but did not know how that was handled. If I need to take my family tent or a trailer of some type, it will affect which Jeep I take (I don't want to pay for 2 jeeps, just one). My wife doesn't want to offroad the WJ anyway, but we may need it for hauling gear since we ALL know how good the TJ is at hauling lots of gear for a family of 4. :)

    -Paul
  • greenjeepgreenjeep Posts: 15
    Hello all. Just took possession today of a 2004 Jeep Rubicon, electric green pearl coat paint and loaded with every option possible (5 speed). I am one excited lady today! I also own a 1980 black Jeep CJ-7. I am hoping that the soft top on the new jeep will be slightly easier to handle than the one on my old jeep but from what I've heard I should not get my hopes up. It presently has a black hard top on now. We are just coming into a little warmer weather here in southern Wisconsin and soon I'll want to replace the hard top with the soft top. Can anyone give me any suggestions or tips on the best way to get that hard top off? Thanks.
  • mtngalmtngal Posts: 1,911
    Thanks for all the ideas - I think I'll try to bend the post back to the way it was (it isn't bent all that much) - I don't mind the way the doors open normally. Otherwise the shorter straps would be great.

    Paul - Why am I not surprised to hear you have taken over your daughter's TJ? I always wondered just who you bought that vehicle for - it seemed like you certainly had a great time playing with it. Did you ever get over to Hungry Valley?

    greenjeep - Love the sound of your new ride! Wish I could get a Rubicon, but I'm thinking about the Unlimited at this point.
  • nolid5nolid5 Posts: 148
    I'm not sure how much of a chance she got to drive it. :0)

    I think Paul would find things to fix on it so he could take it out for test runs. :-)
  • greenjeepgreenjeep Posts: 15
    thanks mtngal. I definitely think you should go for the Unlimited. They are so cool. I spent some time looking at one in the showroom as I was waiting to test drive the Rubicon. If I would not have been able to get the Rubi I was planning to wait until 2005 and go for the Unlimited. Let me know if you get it. I want to hear all about it.
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