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Jeep Wrangler

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Comments

  • drosketerdrosketer Posts: 203
    That's a huge milestone. Congrats, and keep your guard up!

    Andrew
  • mtngalmtngal Posts: 1,911
    It's almost the weekend and I hope that everyone has a safe and fun 4th of July weekend.
  • tjmuddertjmudder Posts: 9
    I'm strongly considering a powertrax no-slip locker for the rear axle of my 02 TJ. The reviews I've read claim they are much quieter and less noticeable than lock-right's or Detroit's, and ARB's are just too expensive. Has anyone had any experience with these?

    My Jeep is my daily driver, but I also do some pretty serious trail riding. I understand how lockers effect road driving in turns, etc., but how tough are they to get used to in icy/snowy Wisconsin type winters? Any info on road drivability would be much appreciated.

    Glen

    Glen
  • tsjaytsjay Posts: 4,591
    Since I live in KY, I get very little opportunity to play in snow. I do get on muddy hillsides, though, and I can tell you that a locker sure makes things "interesting." When BOTH wheels spin, as they will with a locker, there is nothing to anchor the Jeep, and it will go to the downhill side.

    There is such a thing as lateral traction, and with an open diff, the tire that is NOT spinning serves as lateral traction, keeping the back end (front end, if front is locked too) from slipping sideways.

    I would be very, very careful driving a Jeep with a full time locker on snow covered or icy roads. Not saying it can't be done, just saying that extra caution would be needed, especially in cornering. That back end will break loose much easier when locked.

    I have a Detroit Soft Locker in the back of Thelma Jane, and I can tell you that it is really smooth. The highway manners are not bad at all, and with just a little bit of adjustment in driving style (mainly, staying off the gas a little longer coming out of a corner), you hardly know it's back there.

    Tom

    Have you hugged your Jeep today?
  • aparentaparent Posts: 5
    Thanks everyone for the input. Your all right I shouldn't need more power. When I am on road I have alot of freeway driving and the exceleration is a bit timid. I have given it alot of thought and I really don't need more power. Everytime I talk about building up my rubicon everyone say K&N etc. You are all real jeepers and make alot of sense. Thank alot.

    Happy 4th
    Al
  • tsjaytsjay Posts: 4,591
    Are you gonna offroad that Rubi? You have an awesome offroad machine there.

    I'm not one of those people who think anyone that has a Jeep and doesn't offroad it is a "poser." I had my Jeep for fourteen months before going offroad for the first time. I thought that my Jeep was the most fun vehicle I had ever owne BY FAR, even before going offroad.

    I was just curious if you are gonna offroad it or not. Where do you live, Al? If it isn't too awful far for you to drive, you could come to Turkey Bay and wheel with me sometime.

    Tom

    Have you hugged your Jeep today?
  • mtngalmtngal Posts: 1,911
    I think Al said something about going to Camp Jeep in August, so I would think he is more in my direction than yours.

    If you are somewhere around SoCal and want to try out a bit of easy wheeling risk-free (I know what it is like to have a brand new vehicle and wanting to play a bit but don't want to ding it just yet) then there are many wonderful national forest dirt roads where you can get a taste of off-roading but not have to worry about getting in over your head. Of course, there are the ones that you don't try alone, too. And you get to visit some awesome scenery along the way - what more can you ask for? There are lots of guide books on both SoCal and NorCal that will tell you the difference.
  • eaglemamaeaglemama Posts: 1
    We hav a 2003, Jeep Wrangler and want to take the full doors off. The question is how do you keep the light from staying on, on the speaker bar?
    Thanks,
    Eaglemama
  • tsjaytsjay Posts: 4,591
    Behind the glove box is a fuse panel. Pull the #4 fuse, which is the bottom fuse in the right hand column of fuses.

    Be prepared for quite a bit of weight when you lift those doors off! They weigh MUCH more than you would think. Those exposed threads will do a real job on your paint, if you let them come in contact.

    You need a 13 MM wrench for the door hinge nuts. I recommend boxed end, so there's less chance of the wrench slipping and scratching the paint.

    Tom

    Have you hugged your Jeep today?
  • tsjaytsjay Posts: 4,591
    Don't forget the simple little step of sliding the door strap off of the post before you begin lifting the door. It could cause the door to hang up as you remove it and allow the threads on the hinges to hit the paint.

    It's such a simple step, it can easily be overlooked.

    Tom

    Have you hugged your Jeep today?
  • gretagreta Posts: 23
    Greetings everyone! I just learned that if you hold down the Odometer/Tripometer button while turning the Ignition Key just to the Run Position (Not fully to Start,) you get some sort of "Dash Board Computer, Diagnostic "Self Check." Mine starts by writing out in the Odometer box something like "S of 4.0," then "No Faults," then begins to activate all the gauges on the dash, one at a time, 'till it seems to complete it's self test. Is there a 2004 CODE List for all the potential problems that the computer could write out, if it senses that something is actually wrong? It's interesting that it doesn't seem to care that I still have a slight "Pinging Sound" when using the Lower 87 Octane fuel, which really bothers me, even though I know I'm operating this '04, 5 speed Sahara very well, through the various gear shifts. Thanks for any insight you guys might have. Greta
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Well my doors are finally off! To keep the paint from getting messed up on the nut or the paint, I put some box tape around the nut and used a crescent wrench. As soon as the nut was loose, I used my hand to loosen and remove them. No paint problems.

    Sure is fun with the doors off! :) Plus it is easier to see what your tires are running over when offroading (to make sure you are getting the right line).

    -Paul
  • drosketerdrosketer Posts: 203
    Definitely cool running with the doors off. Not sure what kind of terrain you're in Paul, but if it's in a treed area, take care not to get whacked by branches that might get snagged on the body somewhere -- seen that happen, helps if you're wearing glasses! Or, as I found out in the case of mud, that it doesn't cover the inside of your ride as well as the outside... :-p

    Andrew
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    so most of what I have around is urban jungle or desert trails. Just gotta watch out for the brush that is SO dry...

    There are some tree lined areas, but they are far enough apart.

    I found out about the trees with a vengeance at Turkey Bay with Tom. I got popped a couple of times, but fortunately, nothing serious.

    -Paul
  • mtngalmtngal Posts: 1,911
    What are they? I'm so tired of brown and dusty sage brush that I think mud and green trees are a figment of someone's imagination. I sure would like a snowstorm about now - or even some rain. The weather hasn't been all that hot in SoCal, but it sure is dry, and that's going to make for a long summer. Hope the fire hazard doesn't close the national forests for off-roading - that's been done more than once recently.
  • gretagreta Posts: 23
    Greetings; I 'm just wondering; as I had the Oil changed in the Wrangler yesterday, "How much does it matter if the Oil line shows that it is filled about 3/4" over the top mark of the Dip Stick? The Manual says it can cause Engine Damage? Thanks, Greta
  • tsjaytsjay Posts: 4,591
    If I remember correctly, you have the 4.0 L engine. It takes six quarts of oil to fill the crankcase when the oil filter is also changed. (I can't imagine why anyone would change the oil and not change the filter at the same time.)

    I just had my oil changed, and I brought my own oil and filter with me. I had a five quart container of Mobil 1 and a one quart bottle. I personally stood there and watched the oil being changed (That's the ONLY way I will let someone else change my oil... if they let me watch.).

    So, I know for a fact that the proper amount of oil was added, six quarts.

    I just went out and checked the dipstick, and it shows the oil level to be about 3/8" above the "safe" mark. My dipstick has a mark for "add one quart" and another one that says "safe."

    There will be variation in where the oil level will show on the stick from vehicle to vehicle, and there will even be some variation on the same vehicle with different oil filters. Different types of oil filters will vary by a little bit in the amount of oil they hold.

    Tom

    Have you hugged your Jeep today?
  • twylietwylie Posts: 619
    I just changed my oil and filter last weekend and found it to hold a little over 5.5 quarts with a new filter. On occasion I have used the larger Ford Filter (Fram** PH8 equiv) when I haven't had a spare Jeep filter. With the larger filter, tha capacity goes to right at 6 quarts when checked after the Jeep has been sitting. I usually put about a half a quart less than it calls for and then check/top off after I start the engine and let it drain back down. Another of life's little mysteries I guess.

    -twylie

    ** I'd never recommend the use of a Fram filter, it's just what I know the part number for on my Explorer. After reading Bob the Oil Guy's analysis and measurements on filters, I've been staying away from Fram.
  • guy21guy21 Posts: 129
    The greatest risk of over filling one's oil is that of crankshaft seal damage or leakage. More oil sloshing around higher in the crankcase. The seals are not designed for submersion in oil. Only to keep oil spray and mist in, dirt out. At 3/4" over the dipstick mark you may be 1 quart over full. Not as bad as 2 quarts over full. If you live or work near the place that changed the oil, ask them to drain it down to the correct level. If not practical to go back, keep an eye out for any signs of leakage.
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