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Jeep Wrangler

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  • karlw90karlw90 Posts: 59
    Jeff,
    I also own an 05 Unlimited and want to raise it with an OME suspension kit. Did you finish yet? How much did they charge you to install the kit?
    Someone else suggested getting a 2" OME kit and then do a 1" body raise. But if the 2.5" is enough for 33" tires then I don't think this is necessary.
    A quick look at Quadratec and the only 2.5" OME kits I can find are only for Wranglers up to 1996?
  • unlimitjunlimitj Posts: 19
    OME (made by ARB) has lots of different options when it comes to suspensions, and the big stores only carry the most popular. If you want to see more, try www.rocky-road.com.
    Many of us think that OME provides just about the best on and off-road ride you can get for the money, so now that you've decided to go with OME, give Dirk a call with DPG Offroad. He specializes not only in OME, but in putting together exactly what you want/need to make sure you get everything right the first time. www.dpgoffroad.com
    As for the tires, just because you can fit a 33" tire under a 2.5" lift, doesn't mean you should. You can stuff it under there, but only if you're not planning to drive off-road. The 1" body lift (recommend the 1.25" BL from JKS) gives you the extra clearance to run 33's off-road and on. Again, when you call Dirk, just tell him what end result you're looking for and he'll tell you how to get there. If you want to see what that looks like, look at the pics of Paul's rig. (erickpl)
    Let us know how it goes.
  • Im very impressed with the OME suspension system. The ride is soooo much better than stock.

    I do not have any Vibes at all as i drove it 25 miles home on the highway. I gained a total of 4 inches with the JKS 1.25" Body Lift and OME System so went from 19" to 23" NICE. It looks like there is plenty of room to fit 33's.

    Thanks to everyone that gave me advice and the OME is worth EVERY Penny......

    I was thinking of getting 33's but if i gain another 2" I dont know if i can park in my garage, my antenna is hitting now....

    Id post some pics but dont know how....
  • I did the body lift myself and it was EASY. I paid $124 for the JKS 1.25" and did not do the Motor Mount Lift.

    I was going to do the OME suspension system myself but 4 wheel parts had an installation special for $99 so i thought it was worth the cost. For the OME suspension system i paid close to $600.

    If you do get the OME remember to get the springs for the Unlimited. I have not had any drive line vibes at all. The Ride with the OME is SOOOOO much better than stock im very impressed and felt i got MORE than my $$$$ worth. If you do just the OME you will probably gain 2 3/4 inches as i did and got the extra 1.25" from the BL. I have no regrets and can highly recommend the OME system.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    The vent pipe runs parallel to the filler tube, both of which are hidden behind the plastic wheel well liner. It's #9 in the pic.

    image
  • unlimitjunlimitj Posts: 19
    I love all the goods that come with the extra length of the Unlimited. The one big bad is getting high centered on my keel of a tranny skid.
    I want to fix that with a Belly Up type tranny skid (lots of good ones out there to choose from, leaning towards 33 Engineering).
    I already have a 2.5" OME lift and want to add the JKS 1.25" BL and MML and the tranny skid.
    What I don't want to do (yet, because it would be cost prohibitive) is add the SYE kit, CV driveshaft, adjustable rear upper control arms and rear adjustable track bar w/ CV bracket. I definitely do want to add all those things, but need to do it in pieces (again $$$, the supporting stuff is twice as much as the equipment I actually want to add).
    With the extra wheelbase of the Unlimited, can I add the tranny skid without unbearable driveline vibes? I see that the SYE and CV driveshaft are "recommended" in almost every case, but no specific mention of SWB or LWB. The MML is also supposed to help ease some of the driveline angle...
    What if I do the upgrade and do have driveline vibes? Will they be noticeable at all speeds or only on highway?
    Thanks for any insight.
  • Karl,

    I bet you could do the OME kit yourself if you can get your hands on a spring compressor. That was really the only think that kept me from doing it myself. If I did it over i probably would not have added the JKS body lift although it was easy enough to put on so just as easy to take off. I really dont need the height although it looks COOL.
  • Im getting a little play or correcting more in my steering. This did Not occur after the JKS body lift but arose after the OME suspension system. The ride is wonderful, i guess a trade off? The installation was done top notch. They even put on a new steering dampner shock for FREE and a front end alignment.

    Does anyone know what would cause the oversteering or play in the steering, maybe higher center of gravity? It seems im correcting my steering more, just enough to notice the difference compared to pre-lift. Highway speeds seem fine except when i change lanes but around town about 30-45mph its noticeable.

    Would the spyder trax spacers and larger/wider tires fix the problem ive got 31's now or maybe adding a drop pitman arm, im sitting at 4" of lift Total 2.75" with OME and 1.25" with JKS BL. Any suggestions would be welcome.

    Thanks, Jeff
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    I bet you could do the OME kit yourself if you can get your hands on a spring compressor.

    Shouldn't be any need for a spring compressor. With the sway bars disconnected there's enough axle articulation to r&r the springs.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Im getting a little play or correcting more in my steering.

    There's no reason for there to be any more play in your steering after a suspension lift. However, because the axles are rotated when the suspension is lifted, the rotation of the front axle will cause the caster angle to be changed, which will reduce the amount of self centering, resulting in 'quicker' steering.
  • Mac,

    Ok thats exactly whats happening as it does feel like quicker steering....

    Is there any "fix" for this issue...not really a problem just curious...but you hit the nail on the head with the quick steer.

    Oh and another thing, if any of you do get a lift just try to remember the height change when getting out...i almost did a face plant as my feet slipped under the jeep as i was used to the shorter height and so fell forward luckly into some empty boxes but everyone there including me got a very good laugh....
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    With a SWB, the SYE and adj control arms are a MUST, but with the LWB, I just dunno.

    You could always get the skid you want now (good choice with 33 Eng) and just hold it until you get the adj control arms and SYE. That is what my probable route would go, but I'm going with JKS arms, so I KNOW that won't be a cheap option. :) :(

    I'd hate to say go ahead and slap on that skid, cuz I just don't know what the vibes or stresses would be like on the LWB.

    I'd call em and ask. They are pretty good at answering the phone.

    -Paul
  • wpowellwpowell Posts: 125
    I'm assuming you have a non-Rubicon LJ because you mention the possible need for an SYE. You are right on the ragged edge of needing adjustable rear uppers and the only way to know for sure is to install the skid. A SYE is almost a certainty with that combination of suspension and body lift. You can always do a temporary t-case drop--1/2", 1", whatever it takes--if you have serious vibes and are not quite ready to do the control arms and/or SYE.
  • wpowellwpowell Posts: 125
    I was thinking of getting 33's but if i gain another 2" I dont know if i can park in my garage, my antenna is hitting now....

    You will only gain +-1" by going from the stock Rubi 31's to 33's. I have 3.5" of suspension lift on my LJ Rubicon (no vibes) and I am running 33x12.50's with minimal rubbing; I really have to be stuffed to the max on the front with the steering against the stop to get them to rub. Congrats, I bet it looks great!
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    My TJ with the OME lift + the 1.25" JKS BL and 33x12.5's has plenty of room to fit in the garage. I just take the CB antenna off when I go in. :)

    -Paul
  • delqhdelqh Posts: 2
    When I set a temperature set point above the minimum on my 2006 Wrangler air conditioning I get cold air from the dash vents but hot air from the floor vents. I have been told this is the way the temperature control works. Is this A) Outside or recirculated air, B) Does it simply bypass the evaporator or is it actually heated by passing thgrough the heater. It feels very warm.
  • Hi all!

    I am excited to be here and hopefully I'll be sticking around, but I need a little help first:

    I am in the process of working out a deal with someone for a 1997 Sport with 124,000 miles on it. The problem is, I don't know if that sort of mileage is common or not. I don't want to get saddled with a car that is going to start giving me problems in 10,000 miles or something.

    Also, with mileage like that, auto trans and 2 tops, what would you all think would be a fair price for it? Just looking to get some educated opinions!

    Thanks!
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    There are no guarantees of course, but if properly looked after, Wranglers and especially those with the 4.0 I6, have an excellent reputation for longevity. It would be reasonable to expect that 124K miles would be the mid-point in its life before an overhaul, though as with any vehicle, ancillaries like the water pump, alternator, etc., may not last that long.

    Pricing varies according to location, time of year and current demand. I suggest you check out the price guides here on Edmunds, and at Kellys (kbb.com). Then check the completed auctions on eBay and publications local to your area, both in print and on-line.
  • goducks1goducks1 Posts: 432
    I'd add to Mac's comments that the particular auto in that Jeep is a crappy 3-speed that lacks an overdrive, which would have put a bit more stress on the engine if there were lots of highway miles.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    To which I'd add that although it has no overdrive it's an incredibly reliable, strong, well developed unit with a locking torque converter. It's also controlled hydraulically, rather than electronically, a definite benefit in a utilitarian vehicle like a Jeep IMHO. :shades:
  • goducks1goducks1 Posts: 432
    I've never heard of any problems with that tranny. Just making sure the guy knows it has no OD. I wouldn't be happy with the engine spinning for hours at 4000 RPMs on a road trip, it sucks fuel pretty fast and the engine isn't designed for it. I've heard it averages 14mpg on the highway b/c of that issue.

    The 4.0L is a great engine overall though and that mileage is not a big issue for this particular engine, AOTBE. The biggest issue to look for is the exhaust manifold, make sure it was replaced as pretty much 100% of them crack for any of the 1990s Jeeps with the 4.0L. It's an expensive repair, many of us can testify as to that.
  • eltipoeltipo Posts: 21
    Jeepers,

    I drive an '05 Unlimited, auto, 4.0L. I have a daily commute one way of about 1.5 miles with top speeds of 30mph. I live in a hilly area and have been driving with the overdrive off. I feel like I am getting more climbing power. Am I dreaming? Are there any benefits to doing this? Is this a bad idea?

    Thanks
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Am I dreaming?

    No, that's what the overdrive switch is for.
  • jimlw2jimlw2 Posts: 122
    Like Mac24 says, your scenario fits exactly why there's the "O/D Off" switch. Per the manual, I sometimes use it on my '05 Unlimited on high-wind days during my 25-mile commute when I see/hear/feel O/D kicking in and out...though, I also back off the accelerator too since Wrangler's aren't known for their aerodynamic coefficient, especially in high-winds ;)
  • jimlw2jimlw2 Posts: 122
    I just assumed the warmer air through the floor vents was due to engine compartment heat. I often use the bi-level A/C setting to get cooled air through both upper and lower vents...It divides the air velocity so I increase fan speed to compensate. I'm sure the right answer is to open up the top and get nature's A/C ;)
  • wheelsdownwheelsdown Posts: 250
    One little comment. I have a 2000, 4.0 with the "crappy" three speed and 3.07 rear end. It turns a little over 2400 rpm at 65 mph. Not near 4000.

    A lot of things determine engine life. In most cases, number of turns on it is way down the list.

    Like you say, taken care of, it will last a long time.

    I agree, MPG is a downer. :P

    Terry
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    I thought I'd wait until someone else chimed in before posting on this again. ;)

    There are many other factors that will have more of an effect on engine life than a small increase in average rpm. Personal driving style and habits are one.

    For me it's 2500rpm at 65mph, and about 2950rpm at 70mph, with a 3.73 and 31" tires. Redline is about 5200rpm, so cruising at 3000rpm is well within the envelope.

    I drive briskly in town and I keep up with, or am usually ahead of, most other traffic. On the highway it's 65-70 mph, very rarely above that. Additionally, the a/c is almost always on.

    I get a return of between 14 and 15mpg, while a manual should get 15-17mpg.
  • eltipoeltipo Posts: 21
    Thanks,

    I was really wondering if this posed additional wear on the car or not. I was also wondering if driving with the overdrive off at low speeds decreases MPG.
  • Hey guys, newbie here to the board and to my Jeep. Just bought (4/23) a '00 SE with 64k miles. Nice Jeep, however when I drove it home on the highway I was going about 70 mph and downhill and it started shaking pretty bad, once I slowed down it stopped. Then today, I was out on the highway again, around 70 and downhill so gaining speed, and started shaking again. Concerned what it might be???

    My two front tires are pretty low on tread (got add'l discount for this), but is there common steering or suspension related problems that might factor in as well??

    Appreciate the help.
    Ryan
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    It's not an unknown problem, but it's more common on Jeeps that have been lifted.

    Things to check (in order) are, wheel balance, wear in any of the steering and front end suspension joints, failed steering damper, and finally, wheel alignment.

    However if you need tires anyway, the order changes. Check for wear as noted, then have an alignment followed by new tires and balancing. Finally, if the problem remains (unlikely) check the damper, but don't be tempted to replace it with a bigger one regardless, just to try and mask the problem.
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