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Jeep Wrangler

17587597617637641137

Comments

  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    .......Mac24, if you've got the clip number, that would help greatly!......

     

    Is this for the front or rear of the carpet (not the mat)?
  • Hello. I've got a 2004 wrangler x, bought in June '04 - auto transmission. After the 1st oil change it developed a transmission type rattling noise at idle. The dealer can't find it, said they tightened everything. My friend who is knowledgeable in these thing thinks it's loose motor mounts. Sounds like it is coming from under the front dash. As soon as I give it some gas it goes away, then back again at idle. Any suggestions? Thanks/Tom
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    I'd REALLY be hesitant about trying the dealership in Lancaster. They took over Jeeps from another dealership and really don't know too much. When I took my TJ there for an inspection prior to purchasing, they didn't even notice it was missing a front sway bar (and I didn't know any better at the time).

     

    01r1, you can email some to skimblzbvs at yahoo dot com. My email in my profile is definitely not one to give out (it's my work/hispeed one).

     

    -Paul
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    I highly doubt that it's loose motor mounts. Try using a long thin screwdriver as a stethoscope to narrow down the location. Put your ear to the handle and the blade on various parts of the vehicle, being very careful near any moving parts.
  • gman1259gman1259 Posts: 209
    Don-A-Vee did ok by when they replaced my transition. I have not had any problems with it since.

     

    Glen
  • gman1259gman1259 Posts: 209
    I used a wooden handle for a paint roller once to find a noise in an engine. Not has good as a metal tool, but it did get the job done without putting my face close to any moving objects.
  • Mtngal, thanks for the info. I almost bought my Wrangler at Buerge. I recall thinking it funny that the salesman drove a RAV4.

     

    I meant to check my dimming mirror to help with your problem. I've only needed to turn it off once, and I too thought it was done by pressing both switches simultaneously. All that ended up turning on/off were the map lights. As for the other button, I thought that only turned off the temp/compass. Will check later.

     

    Mac24, it's the driver's side, front floor mat clip. It catches the rear of the mat (closest to the seat). Hit it funny with my heel and SNAP!

     

    Thanks all,

    Mike
  • tsjaytsjay Posts: 4,591
    Mike:

     

    Hey, good to see you back with us! Sorry it has taken me this long to reply.

     

    Glad you are hugging your Jeep! They need love and attention to function properly.

     

    I agree with what Mac told you. City driving IS hard on an engine, so spending the extra bucks on more frequent oil changes is not a bad idea.

     

    Also, like Mac said, city driving can be very hard on brakes too. It would help to allow lots of following distance and to slow down so that you give the traffic light time to go green and the stopped cars to get going again. Then you wouldn't even have to use your brakes, and you would catch up to the cars ahead anyway, so you wouldn't lose any time. Bet I know what would happen if you tried that: cars would come around you and cut back in front of you, taking away that space that you are trying to leave open in front of you, right?

     

    Some people seem to think they need to be either heavy on the gas or heavy on the brake. They stay on the gas right up to the very last second as they approach a red light, then they jump on the brakes real hard to get stopped in time. It would make MUCH more sense to ease off the gas as they approach a red light, and maybe they could avoid using the brakes all together, if the light changes in time. At least they would not have to stand on the brakes to get stopped in time.

     

    Oh well, just one of my pet peeves.

     

    Stick around, Mike! Don't disappear on us again.

     

    Tom

     

    Have you hugged your Jeep today?
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Tom, I'm with you on the easing up on the gas. I'm also a believer in engine/transmission braking. In my manual (and our autos), I downshift as I approach a light. My Grand Cherokee got 63,000 miles out of the ORIGINAL factory pads while living in a mountain community. The dealer has NEVER seen 63,000 on a Grand, let alone one living in the mountains (over 4,200 ft elevation).

     

    Gradual is a concept that REALLY extends the life of any vehicle. Sudden acceleration, braking, turning, etc all contribute, IMO, to faster wear. Sometimes is can't be avoided, but most of the time it can.

     

    -Paul
  • I have a question someone help.... what is the difference in the 87-95 wrangler full steel doors and 96-03 wrangler full steel doors. i have a 00 and i would like to put the older style doors on. i heard it was just a hinge location. does anyone have any idea
  • mtngalmtngal Posts: 1,911
    Tom - One of the advantages to driving in the carpool lane is that I can creep along, letting the car in front of me get further ahead or not and trying not to brake or shift at all. You absolutely can not do that if you are in the regular lanes.

     

    I'm more sucessful with the 5 speed than I am with the auto, so I expect that I'll be replacing the brakes on the Unlimited sooner than when I did with either the Sport or the Taco (both 5 speeds). I'm really torn about which tranny I prefer - in some cases I really appreciate the auto, at other times I miss the engine braking you get with the 5 speed.

     

    I know I get unusual mileage out of things like brakes and clutches because 98 percent of my driving is freeway (though it isn't always fast). If I lived in Santa Monica or Culver City I think I would go nuts - all those stop signs and lights! I'd rather drive 75 miles with 2 stop signs and 5 lights than 20 miles with 45 lights and 10 stop signs - it probably takes about the same amount of time. And Tom's way of easing up to things won't work as well under those conditions. By the way, this is one of those times when I wish I didn't have such a good job - I's love to be able to move...
  • Hey, Tom. Thanks for the welcome back. I think I drive pretty conscientiously (but then, doesn't everyone?). You're right though, that driving appropriately leaves room for others to swoop in and out. L.A. freeways are like bumper cars! As someone else mentioned, I try to downshift as often as possible to minimize actual braking.

     

    Someone else suggested doing work like brake jobs on my own. Alas, I'm like Tom Cruise/Cole Trickle in "Days of Thunder." He could drive, but knew absolutley nothing about under the hood.

     

    I'm curious about what invaldiates a warranty? Doing the work yourself? Going to a private mechanic? Etc.? Where in the paper work is that? I've got a mechanic I trust, but he works out of his home garage.

     

    Thanks,

    Mike
  • Because we don't have trunks, doesn't it always look in the rear view like people are tailgating, even though they're not any closer than normal? Maybe it's me.

     

    -Mike
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Not keeping up with maintenence will invalidate your warranty! Doesn't matter whether you use an independent mechanic or do it yourself, as long as it's done correctly. Just keep your receipts.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    It's you!

     

    :--)
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    I'm not the most mechanically inclined, but with the Jeep, I'm not afraid to undertake that kind of work. About all you need for a brake job besides the parts, is brake fluid, a few of the right sized sockets, perhaps a hammer, and something to get the brake dust off your hands (or latex gloves) when your done.

     

    A Haynes manual is a good start if you're not too technical, but want to learn more and do a few of the basics yourself. Using it, I was able to swap out my radiator easily. I've done all my mods myself, and when it comes time to lift my Jeep, I'll do that too.

     

    You'll not only save some bucks, but learn a lot about your rig in the process. If you have a mechanical friend, have them watch you or help you, but do the work yourself so you can learn. I've found it is kinda fun too. :)

     

    -Paul
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    ...Mac24, it's the driver's side, front floor mat clip. It catches the rear of the mat (closest to the seat). Hit it funny with my heel and SNAP!

     

    I'm sure I did say (a couple of times) that the mats weren't listed, just the carpet, but in case we're confusing nomenclature I'll give the ones for the front and rear of the carpet for an '02 (latest I've got).

     

    Rear part# J400 7545 QTY.2 SCREW AND WASHER, Snap Head, .164-18x.375

     

    Front part# 6503 274 QTY.5 PLASTIC NUT, Push On

     

    Though from the diagram it looks like it should be three rear fixings and two at the front (on the drivers side).
  • Thanks for the replies on my receiver hitch question.

     

    Still a happy camper.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Looks like Tom and I take the same view about slipping smoothly through traffic. It's a combination of mechanical sympathy for the vehicle, and having an awareness of the big picture of what's happening around you. Your Jeep will appreciate it and it's very satisfying to slide smoothly ahead of the cars doing the stop, start, and lane swap routine. Anybody can put their foot down and speed, but it takes skill to negotiate traffic efficiently.

     

    ;--)
  • tsjaytsjay Posts: 4,591
    Hi Toady! Boy, how come ya disappeared on us? Welcome back! Stick around, dude.

     

    Tom

     

    Have you hugged your Jeep today?
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