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Jeep Wrangler

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  • zinman61zinman61 Posts: 14
    Here's my Q&A with Chrysler re the incentives.

    Q: When placing a factory order is the incentive deal based on what's in
    effect as of the order date or the delivery date?

    A: Thank you for your email regarding incentives on Jeep vehicles.

    We are pleased to read of your interest in Jeep. Since all
    DaimlerChrysler dealerships are independently owned and operated they
    have the ability to set their own prices and incentives. Generally, only
    the incentives that are offered on a vehicle at the time of delivery can
    be applied to the price of the vehicle. Incentives that are being
    offered at the time of order usually cannot be guaranteed at the time of
    delivery. For more incentive information, please contact your local Jeep
    dealership.

    Jeeps heritage originates with WWII, for more than 60 years of 4WD
    leadership and rugged capability.

    If you would like me to provide you with the contact information for a
    dealer, or if you have further questions, please feel free to use the
    reply link below. You may also call us on our toll-free number at
    1-800-964-0600. When you call, I can connect you directly to your local
    dealership, providing your call is during the dealer's hours of
    operation.

    Thank you again for your email.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    There you have it from the horses mouth (I've changed the title to make it easier to find in the future).

    The dealer can make any mutually agreeable deal with the customer, but he has no control over what incentives the factory will offer at any time now, or in the future.
  • johnfmknjohnfmkn Posts: 9
    Im going to be replacing the oxygen sensor on my 95 Jeep Wrangler and would like to know if anyone has any tips for me. Is it just as easy as unpluging the wire and unbolting it from the pipe or is there more to it? Any special tools? And yes I am one of the newbies, I don't where we are coming from either but I just found this place yesterday while I was looking for information on my jeep.
  • tsjaytsjay Posts: 4,591
    Well, our good fortune that you found us, then. :)

    Stick with us.

    Sorry, no help for ya on your O2 sensor question.

    Tom

    Have you hugged your Jeep today?
  • mtngalmtngal Posts: 1,911
    This probably isn't what's going on with Mike's situation, but thought I might mention it. Concrete roads, especially freeways, have expansion joints on them. The Wrangler has a shorter than normal wheelbase, and in some instances, the expansion joints are set at a distance that causes the Wrangler to rock (especially when driving faster than 30 mph). The I-405 at the Hwy 101 interchange does that - the first time I drove it in the Sport, I thought I had a flat tire or something. The Unlimited with its longer wheelbase doesn't do it at all.

    Mike - sorry I rarely get further south than Westwood and Wilshire, so I haven't driven that section of road since I gave up my Kings season tickets at the Forum. It might be the road, but that doesn't sound very logical to me, based on what you describe.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    This is not normal, something is loose or worn.

    Do you have any alterations to the suspension or steering?
  • If your planning on "serious off-roading" I don't believe the Rocky Mountain Edition comes with the trac-loc differential which I would consider a must. I certainly don't want to start a "auto" versus "manual" argument since I am partial to automatics but use a manual for the serious stuff and find that most of the hard core guys in Moab use manuals for one reason...engine compression and gear ratios coming down the steeps and better crawl ratio. Automatics are great going up hills, but coming down there is too much use of the brakes. In fact, here in Colorado and in Utah, I don't even see very many automatics for those reasons. Be interested in why Mac24 says "you might want to consider the auto for more serious off roading" so that letdolphin can have a good comparison in his decision making. I have had both and like both so no argument intended...just information so letdolphin can make up his own mind according to his driving needs. :)
  • tsjaytsjay Posts: 4,591
    Keith:

    I think letdolphin is of the female persuasion. She signed her last post as "Laura."

    As for the auto tranny, a LOT of rock crawler folks prefer the auto to the manual. Not sure exactly why, but many do prefer the auto. I guess it's just because they don't have to fool with the clutch and can operate the Jeep more smoothly? However, unless they have really fixed it, the new four speed auto wants to stop pulling when the nose of the Jeep points skyward, like it often will in rock crawling. I think they claim to have fixed it with a revision to the design of the tranny pan, but I have not heard if that really fixed it or not.

    I'm with you: I prefer the manual.

    Tom

    Have you hugged your Jeep today?
  • embeedueceembeeduece Posts: 260
    >Do you have any alterations to the suspension or steering?

    No, nothing. It's as stock as stock gets. Service date is coming up. Hope the guys at Buerge know what I'm talking about when I mention "Death Wobble." I may just print up these chats and bring them to catch the service guys up to speed. Maybe I can grab a mechanic friend and drive that stretch of road with him.

    I hope MtnGals' explanation is all that it is. Or even just tightening that trac bar.

    Thx,
    Mike
  • embeedueceembeeduece Posts: 260
    >The I-405 at the Hwy 101 interchange does that.

    Going which way to which way? I'll go drive it. (not that it ever moves fast enough to reach wobbling speed)

    > Generally, only the incentives that are offered on a vehicle at the time of delivery can
    be applied to the price of the vehicle.

    Well, at least my dealer was playing it straight with me.

    -Mike
  • tsjaytsjay Posts: 4,591
    Mike:

    Not sure I would use the term "Death Wobble" at the service department. I just said it sounds similar, and maybe the same causes come into play.

    Does the steering wheel saw left and right real rapidly as you experience this? It would if you really had death wobble.

    Tom

    Have you hugged your Jeep today?
  • Y'all are correct, I am of the Female persuasion.

    For me I don't want an auto (can't make me this time). I live about 20 minutes outside of the Smoky Mtns and there is a GREAT place to Off Road with some pretty awesome climbs. Even the dealers have tried to talk me out of the manual but until you try to climb/descend from some of these hills slowly ..augh. It cracks me up to go to the dealers and tell them I want a manual as they all take a double take and say excuse me, around here about 90% of what you find on the lots are automatics.

    Well my biggest decision right now is to go with the Rocky Mtn X or the Sport with the AAC (I think) option. I will be talking to the dealer Monday so we will see.

    Laura
  • tsjaytsjay Posts: 4,591
    But, now that I have a better idea of the type of wheelin' you will be doing, I would like to see you get a Rubicon, if there is any way you can swing it.

    I suppose Windrock and Tellico will be places you will take your Jeep for wheelin'? You could put the 4:1 T-case and front and back lockers of a Rubicon to good use at either of those places.

    Tom

    Have you hugged your Jeep today?

    P.S.

    Forgive me, if you posted some kind of spending limit for this new Jeep. The Rubicon may be above your limit, but you could never buy a Sport and add all the goodies that a Rubicon has without spending about three or four times the difference in price between the two. The Rubicon has Dana 44's front and back, a 4:1 Transfer Case low range gear ratio (standard is 2.72:1 in other Wranglers), SELECTABLE lockers front and back, 4.11 gears and 16" MT/R tires in 31 x 10.50 size. The Rubicon is an awesome trail rig at a super bargain price!
  • mtngalmtngal Posts: 1,911
    Try going northbound on the I-405 in either lane 1 or 2 - I can't quite remember if I notice it when I'm coming down the last bit of the Sepulveda Pass or just between where the 101 goes off and the carpool lane starts because it's been a long time since I drove the Sport into work. It doesn't sound like what what you have - what I feel is like rocking, not a vibration. By any chance are your tires cupped? Mine get that way (especially if I'm lazy about rotating the tires) and will cause vibration similar to an unbalanced tire or having your front end out of alignment. But that's pretty much speed dependent.

    Laura - I prefer the manual for going down hill for the reasons stated (engine braking going downhill) but I prefer an auto in the sand (something we see quite a bit) - it is easier to spin your wheels with a manual, which means it is easier to get stuck. Both are really minor advantages for the terrain I experience (I'm not a rock crawler so don't know about the auto having the problem that Tom talked about). If you want a manual, stick to your guns and get one - you'll be happy you did.

    By the way, while I didn't special order the Unlimited, there was only one that met what I wanted in SoCal. The dealer I bought it from (Buerge) had to trade with another dealer to sell it with me, so perhaps whatever dealer you like best can do the same thing to get your manual.
  • I can certainly understand the automatic and no clutch, especially in up-hill situations. It's the downhill situation that has always bothered me and I have driven automatics over the last 18 years. After test driving both here in Colorado on some real steep declines, there was no doubt which one I was going to buy this time...the manual let me poke coming down and never touched the brakes while the auto found me riding them all the way to stop speed. And I couldn't crawl over the same terrain with the auto that I just did with the manual. I read a great article in one of the 4X4 magazines when they test drove the Rubicon with both trannys on Hell's Revenge in Utah...they couldn't hold the auto back and wound up sticking the nose in the dirt (great picture)...the manual crawled down with no trouble and no burning brakes. Again, I still prefer the auto for convenience, but it's the blasted low gearing that wins out in the manual. And we have not spoken about reverse...in those situations where you might need to back up the side of a hill to turn around...manual wins again with the lower gearing in reverse. It really does come down to a preference and what type of off-roading a person will actually do. That's what each person making a decision must analyze...what % of the time will I need the low gears of a manual versus the automatic...probably less than most of us think. Ooohhh, just thought of some awful trails here in CO with lots of loose shale where braking will send you sliding down several thousand feet and now I'm glad I have that low crawl speed with engine compression coming down...but that's about 1% of the time. Heck, if we all agreed where would the fun be in all this great learning we get here on Edmunds? ;)
  • "The dealer I bought it from (Buerge) had to trade with another dealer to sell it with me, so perhaps whatever dealer you like best can do the same thing to get your manual." This is very true, Laura. Actually all dealers are inter-connected and can get any vehicle they want from another dealer...if they have something to trade that the other dealer might want. I have bought cars/trucks in CO that came from trades in Utah and Arizona. It all depends on how hard the dealer wants to work to earn your business. If they are not willing, I'd find another dealer. All they have to do is get on the computer and find your vehicle and then see if the dealer is willing to trade with them. If it's a popular model then it might be harder, but it can be done. Dealers like to work with each other because they never know when they might want to trade. I have lots of friends who own dealerships so know how they work together (and sometimes hate each other). Good luck...they can get a manual from another state if needed and they want your business. :)
  • tsjaytsjay Posts: 4,591
    Even with that 4:1 low range gearing on a Rubi, the compression braking is not good with the auto? Combine that with the 4.11 gearing of the differentials, and I would think that puppy would crawl REAL slow (still, not as slow as a manual, but slow enough I would have guessed). Hey, if you have driven both, I sure ain't gonna argue with ya, but I am surprised.

    Tomster

    Have you hugged your Jeep today?
  • I missed this one ... What I was talking about with the Fuel Bypass was actually a Fuel Disabler, a switch you put in your jeep to turn off the flow of Fuel so even if they did steal it they wouldn't get very far.

    As far as the alarm I was thinking of getting one with the Perimeter & Motion Sensor with a pager.

    If I am correct, I don't think the X has the Sentry Key option

    Laura
  • embeedueceembeeduece Posts: 260
    >By any chance are your tires cupped?

    Cupped? Cupped?! Of course not. My tires are not cupped! How dare you!

    Um...what's cupped? :blush:

    Seriously, I don't know what that means but looking at my tires nothing about them suggests cuppage. I do get the tires rotated per the schedule (Well, I request it. God knows if they actually do it.) Since this has happened to me 3 times -- once early on and twice recently I'm wondering if some combination of tire placement causes it. Like maybe the tires have been rotated back to original starting position. Maybe one's a defect. I had an increasing wobble in a Prelude; turned out to be a slowly bubbling tire. Probably not, but I'm trying to cover all bases before my Wrangler up and explodes.

    I will brave the Sepulveda pass and drive the 405 later tonight.

    Thanks Mtngal & all.

    -Mike

    "Weebles Wobble but they don't fall down!"
  • 99tj99tj Posts: 187
    -In response to Tom's posting about posting images:

    I work as a Graphic Designer and deal with image size / file size issues every day.
    When saving a Jpeg in Photoshop (I assume other photo-editing applications do this as well) a "jpeg options" window appears. You then have the option of choosing a compression size; Large, Medium, or Small. If you choose the smallest Medium setting, 5, you can lower the file size significantly.
    I just tested a file that was 370k at the Large setting, saved it at the "5" setting and dropped the file size down to 50k. Keep in mind I never changed the actual dimensions of the file. So the picture was still decent size to view. It lowers the quality of the pic, but not by much. Let's face it, we don't really need Hi-Res images on here. :P

    Long story short, we can still post good size pics at small file sizes.
    This way we don't kill the dial up folks. :shades:

    -Dan
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