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Ford Escape Mazda Tribute Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • I am now experiencing the same problem with the bearings. I also own a 2002 Tribute. The LX model. I brought it in for its regular service and ask that they diagnose the noise in the front end. They returned the car to me and said that i needed a new set of tires. I then asked a back yard mechanic for a second opinion and he informed me that it was definitely the drivers side wheel bearings. A Licensed mechanic at a private garage imediatlely told me the same thing after he drove it. My wife and I have been lied to and deceived by Mazda dealers from all across Ontario and Manitoba on different issues. Gerry Gordon's Mazda (Winnipeg). Mid City Mazda. (Sudbury). Target Motors (Thunder Bay). Destination Mazda (Winnipeg) :mad:
  • All,

    Hard-start problems may be a result of the IAC (I just changed mine again, $48.00 from the car parts shop. Do not buy aftermarket parts, only Mororcraft). They get real gummy with carbon build-up and are useless after that or until cleaned. I cleaned my old one and replaced it with the new one. I'll keep the old as a spare.
    A lot of IAC's probably need replacing, unless there are really battery or starter problems. Mine starts like a champ, but again I'll probably remove the new IAC to clean it in about another 25K miles. It is or seems to be a more Ford specific problem. The induction throttle plateand surrounding area may also need to be
    cleaned. It's worth 30-min. of your time to do this, but make sure you wear safety glasses, gloves, and have rags to wipe out the carbon residue from the induction or throttle-throat. Also, only use use throttle plate cleaner that is safe for teflon-coated plates. It'll say on the can. I've used 3M brand with good success.

    It may also be that the computer program has not been upgraded on the recall program done for I believe '01's - '04's. A Ford / Mazda dealership should be able to tell with their diagnostic tool if it's been done by your VIN #. If it hasn't been done, you should get the EPROM update for free from Ford / Mazda.

    I'm not a mechanic by any means, but I bought my '01 Escape XLT new and have babyed this vehicle liek no other. I still had some of same issues others seem to be having at present. Wait till you have to change out the alternator, that's a chore for the pros. Cost me $475; tow to shop, $195 alternator, and 2-hrs. labor, because the passenger-side half shaft has to be removed, control-arm dropped, and alternator dropped from below. The shop messed up at some point, the rubber half-shaft boot was blown, resulting in half-shaft rebuild (at their expense) and I've still got a noise from the front-right suspension. It doesn't bother me that much anymore though; there seem to be no permanent problems.
  • At 40,000 My Escape developed a transmission shutter when shifting out of overdrive. The dealer did all the normal things dealers do, The first visit was "couldn't feel it", #2 visit was a bill for $360 to replace 1 plug and coil (Shutter didn't change) #3 visit was to inform me it was typical and I should ignore it #4 visit was to re program the shift points for $250 (an interesting approach to the problem---It wouldn't shift into overdrive).visit #5 was to undo the previous 'repair' and return my money or else (still pending).
    I am in the process of replacing the Escape with a foreign car
  • you saved my [non-permissible content removed], I am having the no start problem. 3 times in the last two months. 2002 tribute es. after reading this site I thought I would see if the vehicle would run without the IAC valve, so I unplugged it -it did not run. so I plugged it back in--it did not run then either!!! but I remembered your post about how to have the IAC relearn its idle. I tried your procedure and it worked. life is good, I am back to waiting for the original "no start" to occur. many thanks
  • Any thoughts on my comments? I'd like some feedback, as I may bring them up next time my Tribute is in for maintenance.
  • Did you get any answers to your park shift and electrical problem message? My son had the gear shift in his 1994 Corolla get stuck in park and the brake lights went out as well. He replaced the burned fuse associated with the gear shift and the new one blew as well.

    Thanks,
    Jim
  • Ya man, thanks for the lengthy discription on the IAC. I am not having problems anymore, but all I did was clean the battery terminals of all the corrosion though there wasnt much. It never does it at all anymore (the slow starting). I think maybe its posslible resetting the computer helped it..dunno. But I am really glad to have a back-up plan (IAC) just in case. Thanks again. :D

    -Blake
  • I have a 2005 Ford Escape I was wondering if anyone knew anything about automatic locks on this car. Other ford cars and many other makes that I have driven in the past have all had an automatic locking system that locks the doors when the car moves past a certain speed or when the car is put into gear. I noticed recently that the escape is not doing that. Is this something that is not on the escape or is there something wrong with my car? Anyone who knows anything I would really appreciate the help. :)
  • baggs32baggs32 Posts: 3,221
    The automatic locks you are describing are not a feature on the 2001-2006 Escapes.
  • by58by58 Posts: 4
    Strange; I've driven 2004's and 2005's, and now own a 2006 Escape -- and the doors all locked automagically when I put it in gear and drive.
  • baggs32baggs32 Posts: 3,221
    Not in the U.S. versions they don't. If yours do then something is wrong or you're driving an Explorer.
  • bc60bc60 Posts: 17
    I have a 2004 Tribute and it doesn't have automatically locking door locks.
  • by58by58 Posts: 4
    Think I should tell my dealer I have the wrong badge on the vehicle? ;)

    Seems we're both right. :D

    'AutoLock' is a feature that is factory installed and is standard with Power Door Locks. There is a procedure to disable it, so if you do have the key-fob keyless entry then it is likely just disabled. I found the info in my Owner's Guide on page 80.
  • baggs32baggs32 Posts: 3,221
    Where are you from by58? My '05 manual has no information about the "AutoLock" feature. Are you driving a U.S. version of the Escape?
  • Anyone know how to replace a blown fog light? Do you have have to drop the bumper? Thanks for any info.
  • by58by58 Posts: 4
    I'm in SE PA; unit final assembly was Kansas City, and the manual was printed March 2005 in the USA with Ford P/N 6L8J-19A321-AA.

    The Autolock is in the "Locks and Security" section; it is an Option, but should still be in the '05 manual someplace.

    I also used an '05 last year when my other vehicle was sidelined in the shop, and it too locked up when starting off. I also had a GM car -- didn't like that all the doors unlocked when you shut off the ignition or triggered the key-fob.
  • I was focused on the "pats" system, removed the idle air connector to see if it was working--do not do that unless you have read the post here on how to have the engine relearn its idle.. It started after removing the connector but ran poorly, chugged and stalled, did not help to just plug the idle connector back in :) . it had refused to start 3 times before in the past week, but did start after about 1/2 hour wait, on the 4th time it did not start and was towed to a private repair center. after testing they indicated the problem was the fuel pump, which they replaced and the vehicle has run fine the past 4 days--not totally convinced yet, but the vehicle has been starting fine. only 36000 miles but 37 days past warranty, approx $700 repair
  • baggs32baggs32 Posts: 3,221
    Yep, you're right! I checked another forum, dedicated to the Escape, and it does seem that JOB2 '05 Escapes and on have the auto lock feature. I have a JOB1 '05 Escape and it definitely does not have the feature which explains why my manual says nothing about it either as it was most likely printed in early 2004. We bought this Escape in June of 2004.

    FWIW, other features added to the JOB2 '05's include the storage bin under the cargo floor (optional), and a slightly different gauge cluster. Our Limited does have a full size spare but I think all JOB2's received a doughnut. Correct me if I'm wrong.
  • by58by58 Posts: 4
    Yeah -- and 'Safety' is Job1, huh? :confuse:

    I've had a '93 Taurus and a '98 Windstar before this '06 Escape, and thought that was a standard feature with the power-lock system. It is a good safety feature -- I 'lost' a kid out the rear door of a '68 Impala turning a corner once. Good job it was winter and he was bundled up for sledding; my backend slipped out and poof he was gone. Scared heck out of us, but he didn't have any bumps or scratches -- his other friends all wanted to try it too!

    I have the donut -- couldn't see paying the extra for the full size as I'm in the city/suburbs and repairs are easy to get.

    Thanks for the info. :shades:

    by58
  • tnntnn Posts: 4
    I need help with engine pinging on my new Escape. It's a V-6, automatic and pings using 87 octane, going up slight hills. The dealer cannot pick up any errors in the computer and barely acknowleges there is a problem.
    The say if no computer errors and still pinging then that's the way it is.
    Does anyone else experience engine pinging?

    Thanks
  • baggs32baggs32 Posts: 3,221
    Yes, we do too. Dealer said the same thing to us twice. Tried 89 octane and it didn't do a thing. Ironically cheapo gas from a local chain seems to nearly get rid of the pinging. I worry what else it's doing though. :surprise:

    Some other brands like Shell and BP work OK most of the time too. Sunoco, Citgo, and Exxon all make it come back every time.
  • tnntnn Posts: 4
    As of 9-29, still having pinging problems.
    Should the MAF sensor, coolant temp sensor and PCM be checked when the dealer says they're not picking up an computer codes?
    The dealer say's the computer already checks those 3 items so they're ok according to him.
    Does that sound right?

    I'm frustrated that a new car is pinging.

    Thanks
  • wcw1wcw1 Posts: 44
    Original message

    I have a 2001 Mazda Tribute with 40,000 miles. The power steering pump starting making crunching noises. The noises get worse if the car idles and gets hot. Mazda wants to charge me $700.00 to replace the pump. I had the fluid flushed and that helped a little. I have been unable to find a power steering pump anywhere so I can do the repair myself or have a garage do it. The idea of paying Mazda $700.00 upsets me. Any ideas appreciated.

    New message

    Well I put off the repair for quite a while. Through the winter there was no noise and I finally got a pump online from Showcase Mazda and recently had it installed by a well known mechanic in my area. It was a very difficult install. It appears nothing is easy on a Tribute. The problem is that the crunching noises are still there. I took the car back to the local Mazda dealer, mainly a Lincoln Mercury dealer, and they again told me I need a new power steering pump. I then advised them the power steering pump was brand new and at that point they had no idea what was causing the problem and offered no suggestions.

    So I am throwing the question out to see if anyone here has had a similar problem or any ideas as to what I can do. It almost sounds like something needs lubricating but I don't know what. The problem has not gotten any worse but is very annoying. Is there anything in the steering column that could be a problem.

    Thanks in advance for any ideas.
  • wcw1wcw1 Posts: 44
    Just had a dead battery develop over night on my 01 Tribute. The problem is that when the battery is dead you cannot shift the transmission out of park. So I could not move the car to be able get jumper cables on the battery. After taking the battery out of my other car and getting the Tribute started I was on my way to get a new battery and the Tribute just stalled in the middle of a busy intersection. I automatically put the car in Park to try and restart, thinking the battery had probably charged up enough to start. Big mistake, as my Tribute would not start and I could not get the transmission out of park to push the car out of the intersection. This seems to me to be a serious safety issue and a real pain in the rear. There is apparently no way to over ride the transmission being locked in park with a dead battery. Fortunately, I had brought my jumper cables and a passing motorist stopped and gave me a jump. Be warned about this stupid problem with the Tribute. I don't know how many model years have this problem but I think it is a dangerous situation.
  • Kids were climbing around in the front seat and we suspect they pushed some buttons and somehow shorted something out. There is battery left, and we even tried jumping, but no cranking can be heard. The car is stuck in park and we can't get it into neutral. The wipers are slow, and turning on a fan or other item causes a slow turning electrical motor sound.
  • Update - We I tried jumping it and now it clicks when trying to start, and in that state you can move it to neutral.
  • I have had my 05 Tribute for about a two months now. I love it except for one thing - it whirs when accelerating. It isn't real loud (you can turn the radio up to drown it out) but it is annoying. Anyone else experience this? It's going to the dealer next week for maintenance and I'll mention it to them, but I was hoping someone knew what I was talking about!!
  • escapenutescapenut Posts: 117
    If this the original OEM battery, you're probably due for a brand-new battery. I replaced my battery on my '01 Escape almost exactly three (3) years after I bought the Escape. In Houston, the summer's tend to kill batteries regardless of brand, but three (3) years is about the max. life on one here. I got mine from a Ford dealership (Motorcraft) and they cut me a deal for $65.00 as opposed to their
    nearly $100.00 asking price. I figured it'd be better to stick with the Motorcraft as opposed to buying elsewhere for the price. However, good-quality aftermarket batteries are just as good as OEM. Wal-Mart had their brand for about $60.00, but the baettery-housing looked the same as Motorcraft's.
  • I have a 2005 Tribute V6 LX. When accelerating it sounds like a plane taking off. At first it was irritating, now I kind of like the sound.
    Also, the passenger side door rattles like crazy. I cannot seem to pinpoint exactly where the sound is coming from. Nothing seems to be loose that I can see or feel.
    Other than that it has been Ok. My 2001 Tribute had some more problems, but I got rid of it after 4 years.
    Some how the quality feel is not there. It keeps reminding you that it is basically a Ford product disguised as a Mazda.
    Next time it will be another make.
  • Only play factory recorded CDs in your CD-6. Read the manual, that unit does not "like" home recorded CDs, ESPECIALLY those with labels.
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