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Ford Escape Mazda Tribute Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • twinegartwinegar Posts: 1
    When the ignition is off the horn works normal. When the vehicle is running and I press the horn button on the steering wheel, the horn sounds continuously until I turn off the vehicle and then back on.

    It acts like the horn button is sticking but it doesn't do it when the vehicle is off...Any ideas?
  • jela10jela10 Posts: 1
    I recently bought a pre-owned 2003 Ford Escape 5 weeks ago
    and I had to replace the Hub-bearing already, 2 days before I replace the bearing the ABS light came on and hasn't went off since. As of 4/26/06 my airbag light goes on and off and mt battery light came on today. I only paid $173.00 to Sears Automotive to get it fix but it seems that they are connected to my problems. After 2weeks of having my truck I decided to get a oil change an a alignment, thats when my airbag light came on and 4 days later the ABS light came on. I should have followed my first mine and gotten another Saturn. I own a 13 year old Saturn wagon that never gave me problems, except for regular maintenance.
  • jgeislerjgeisler Posts: 2
    I have the same problem with my 02 Escape, I'm about to put a fuel pump in it. What fixed yours?
  • bri66bri66 Posts: 220
    Has anyone had problems with their sunroof? I noticed last year I had to press the button a few times before it would open or close, but this morning when I tried to open it made a loud snapping noise like something broke, and when I closed it, it didn't close squarely. The passenger side stayed a half inch lower. I believe Ford will need to fix this one unless someone has any idea to help me. I have a 2001 XLT. Thanks. :sick:
  • pdc2pdc2 Posts: 15
    Thanks for the advice. I tried to purge air from the power steering system by turning the steering wheel left until it reached the stop, allowing the car to coast 2 full circles, and then to the right and allowing it another 2 full circles. Repeating the same for some 4 mintues.

    Then tried the same alternate purging turning the steering wheel (whilst allowing the car to move forward on its own as I don't want to aggravate the steering mechanism), pausing for about 10 seconds at the stops. This for about 2 minutes.

    Unfortunate for me, the slight "wisssshing" sound is still audible. The other method of changing steering power pump fluid is too technical for me.

    I think I'll bring the car to the dealership for a check up as the thought of stranded on the highway is too much. But thanks all the same.
  • chuck1chchuck1ch Posts: 15
    I had a 2001 Tribute that had the same problem.

    You cannot just get the switch. You would have to buy the whole enclosure, lights and swithch.

    I decided to clean the switch by extracting it from the enclosure and spraying some contact cleaner into it.

    Worked fine.
  • dan101dan101 Posts: 6
    If the engine seems to run if you keep your foot on the gas but stalls when you remove it. Buy a Haynes repair book and it will walk you through step by step of how to fix it. What i found was build up in the throttle body
  • dan101dan101 Posts: 6
    I have a 2001 v6 escape when backing up it seems to have either a vibration or something dragging it down almost like the emergency brake is on. I doesn't do it all the time. But mostly in the morning
  • bri66bri66 Posts: 220
    Unfortunately it's no longer just the switch that's messed up. I guess I should call Ford and schedule an appointment. Thank you for your input.
  • pgrooverpgroover Posts: 4
    The emission light for my daughter's 2001 Escape (XLS) just came on a couple of days ago. Any idea what could cause this, or how to take care of it?

    thx
  • wtd44wtd44 Posts: 1,211
    I would think that getting the code(s) read would be step number one. Most any Autozone store, if they are in your area, could tell you what the codes are and what they may mean. If they can't pin it down for you, you may need to go somewhere that has a more sophisticated code reader. That could mean paying an independent garage or a dealer to look into it.
    Sometimes a loose gas cap will set off that persistent light, and often the only needed action is to secure or replace the cap, and then fully disconnect the battery terminals. After the car sits for some 30 minutes, reconnect the battery terminals. This may be the end of the problem for you. If it comes back, go to a garage or dealer as first stated above. :shades:
  • pgrooverpgroover Posts: 4
    Thanks, I'll take it over to Autozone and see what luck I can have.
  • seiserseiser Posts: 5
    2005 escape with weak ac. The ac is not cold when at idle. It only blows cold air when driving. Anyone else with a similar situation?
  • wtd44wtd44 Posts: 1,211
    That may not be a very unusual situation. I have certainly noted the same thing in more than one make of vehicle. I "guess" that the air volume moving through the condenser radiator is dramatically increased by the car moving through the air. The result is a very notable increase in heat exchange out under the hood. :cry:
  • tsikoratsikora Posts: 1
    I have a '03 tribute with 65k on it and it has a squeak sounds coming from the front of the car when turing or driving over rough surface. The best part is that it is weather related, only squeaks on colder days and during winter it is the worst :confuse:

    What else I can say is that it must be something that needs to be lubricated because it won't make any sounds during wet conditions or as it comes out of a car wash.. well till it get dry.... anyone have a simillar problem? any solutions?
  • wtd44wtd44 Posts: 1,211
    You might get your chassis/suspension bushings checked out. Some of them may be causing the squeaks, and changing them may quiet things down.
  • rcinmdrcinmd Posts: 139
    I, too, get suspension creaks and graunches, and they are in the rear. I have noticed they seem to be worse in dry conditions, with lower humidity. I have sprayed lubricants all over, yet they are still present on certain days. I guess what I need to do is get the vehicle on a lift and apply with the loads off the joints.
    As for my body flex creaks, I have confirmed that they are a result of the doors flexing in the openings, rubbing along the weather stripping. They seem to be the worst during temperature transitions. This past week the noises were back in full force. On the way home to lunch Friday, it was as bad as it ever was. Once home, I rubbed all the weather stripping with AmorAll wipes. On the way back to work, a half hour later, the creaks were essentially gone. Last night, I did as some have suggested, and applied vaseline to all the rubber again. This morning the vehicle was silent. So what we have here is a less-than-stout body structure. The vehicle itself feels stiff, nothing like the loose quivering feeling you get in some large body-on-frame SUVs. But there obviously is flexing going on. But if this 'cures' the noises that drive me nuts, then I'll take this action now and then.
  • douglas555douglas555 Posts: 2
    My Ford Escape passenger side headlight has consensation. Someone told me to drill a hole in the back of the headlight and it would dry it up. Anyone know if this is true? Will it affect the headlight? Any help appreciated.
  • nieds13nieds13 Posts: 4
    I have a 2002 Ford Escape. Over the summer, whenever it would be sitting outside all day and I tried to start it, it would start then die, but once I got it going it was ok. Then it would take a couple of times to get it started, but again once I got going, it was ok. Eventually, I'd get it going, but then it would die on me whenever I would stop or release gas. As long as I kept my foot on gas it would be ok. It doesn't do it when it's been in my garage all night, or even if I was out for a couple of hours, it only seemed to happen after it had been outside for 10 hours while I was at work. And it didn't matter what temperature it was. Any idea where I should start looking for problem. It wasn't the battery. Thank
  • bemeastbemeast Posts: 1
    Hey, I was searching this forum and found your post. I am having the same problems (01 Tribute 98K cylinder 2). I didn't notice the burnt spark plug smell though. Have you found a solution yet. If so let me know. Thanks.
  • dan101dan101 Posts: 6
    It is the throddle body. My 2001 did the same thing I pulled it out and cleaned all the gunk out of it and it runs fine. Try a Haynes manual it describes step by step how to remove and clean it
  • cscott2cscott2 Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 Escape and experienced the same problem when the car was about 8 months old. I turned the key in the ignition, but nothing happened. I called my Ford dealership. The service manager came out and tried to start it. Nothing. He then clicked and unclicked the key fob which I believe cleared or reset the anti theft device. The car started right up. It happened a few more times since then. Lately, it's been much more common. I'm going to call the dealer. Has Ford looked at this for you?
  • kmattinglykmattingly Posts: 1
    Please Help! I have a 2002 Ford Escape and have been having very strange issues for about the past 2 months. It will drive fine, then I will start it, put it in reverse, back out then shift to drive and it dies! I can reverse all day long but the minute i shift into drive, it will die. I can get it to go by hitting the gas while shifting (tires squeal) but if i slow down, it will die again. It starts fine, reverses fine, its Drive that is the problem. Then, when I get it to go, it seems to be slipping in and out of gear. I will be going and the RPMs are going crazy, car is stalling, then going, then stalling...then, it will run fine. This problem is so hit and miss but Im scared to death it is the transmission! Can anyone relate or help me out?

    I appreciate it!!!
    Kelly
  • soggsogg Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Maxda Tribute LX Automatic. It starts fine and runs fine in any gear EXCEPT reverse. If you go from park to reverse it will stall. If you go from park to any other gear it's fine. It doesn't do it all the time either. The garage has had it all day and it hasn't stalled any! Anyone have any suggestions? PLEASE.
  • tnywndytnywndy Posts: 1
    I was recently having a similar problem with my 2002 Escape. I actually took it in yesterday to the Ford dealer (big mistake) and dropped a few hundred dollars to get it fixed. It was the tie rod ends (basically, they connect your tires to the suspension and turn the tires when you turn the wheel). Before I got it fixed, I noticed that turning the wheel a certain direction caused a sort-of "rubbing feel," so if you feel this, it's likely the same problem. And you're probably right--it needs lubrication, but thing is, the bushings (which is probably the part that is dried out and making it only noticable when dry) can't be lubricated...the whole tie rod (which is covered in rubber) has to be replaced. According to my service advisor, most cars no longer have parts that can just be maintained by lubricating them....
    Sorry for the bad news--it definately was a shock to me--and frankly made me feel even worse about buying this car, as it's not very old and I lost track a long time ago how many times I have taken it in.
  • finznfunfinznfun Posts: 1
    I just bought a new 2006 Tribute and can not find a brush guard / grill guard anyplace? Anyone know where I can find one? :shades: Thanks! Jason
  • Dont waste your time with mazda like i did, contact the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration www.nhtsa.dot.gov and file a complaint on your mazda defects. I have a 2002 mazda tribute, and this is the second time i am having to replace the rotors, the first rotors and brake pads were replaced at 17,000 miles, now 10,000 miles later with 27,000 miles here we go again, warped rotors. mazda like most manufactures will deny, and not take any responsibilities to fix your vehicle, unless you file a complaint to the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration. The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration compiles the complaints, and are the ones to force the manufacture to issues recalls and remedy known problems the dealer keeps denying they are aware of. Besides the rotors this has been the most unreliable vehicle, i wasted my money on. This is the last mazda i will ever purchase. Buyer beware, check the website i posted and you can view all the complaints, issues and recalls affected with your vehicle.
  • Dont waste your time with mazda like i did, contact the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration www.nhtsa.dot.gov and file a complaint on your mazda defects. I have a 2002 mazda tribute, and this is the second time i am having to replace the rotors, the first rotors and brake pads were replaced at 17,000 miles, now 10,000 miles later with 27,000 miles here we go again, warped rotors. mazda like most manufactures will deny, and not take any responsibilities to fix your vehicle, unless you file a complaint to the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration. The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration compiles the complaints, and are the ones to force the manufacture to issues recalls and remedy known problems the dealer keeps denying they are aware of. Besides the rotors this has been the most unreliable vehicle, i wasted my money on. This is the last mazda i will ever purchase. Buyer beware, check the website i posted and you can view all the complaints, issues and recalls affected with your vehicle.
  • simeronsimeron Posts: 1
    My driver side turn signal started blinking fast. Naturally I replace the rear turn signal and it worked fine for about a week or two. It started happening again. I replace the same bulb, but no blinker in the driver side rear. I swapped bulb sockets from each side for the front and back, still no blinker. I checked the voltage, and am getting 5-7 volts on the back blinker. Anyone have any idea what could be going wrong? Thanks.
  • mshelly05mshelly05 Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Escape and have been having problems recently when I turn the ignition key to start it up and it shutting back off. I have to keep my foot on the gas and let it idle for a few minutes before it will stay running. Yesterday, my husband changed the fuel filter and I took it to a mechanic and he put it on the scope but no problems showed up. Any ideas or solutions? Thanks!
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