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Ford Escape Mazda Tribute Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • nortsr1nortsr1 Posts: 1,060
    dgerges:
      The rear hatch lid is adjustable and if the rear glass is where it rattles, there are two black rubber type nipples... supposedly to stop the glass from hitting the metal. If one of them is missing, just go to the dealer and ask parts dept. for a replacement...they just snap into the small hole. In my case, I merely took some sticky sided velcro and made my own.
  • 2001 Tribute, 51k miles - just spent over $500 to have the rotors replaced!! I had hoped to avoid the possibility of replacing the rotors after reading the previous post (by changing the brake pads when it was recommended), but my hopes were dashed when the service rep, obviously using his sensitivity training, told me that my rotors were bad (i.e., below spec). To push the sale, he and the mechanic said that they could not turn the rotors because they were already below spec and brake function and safety would be compromised; he also told me that the dealer could not legally allow my Tribute back on the road for liability reasons. For those of you who are about to have your brake pads replaced, you may want to bring a lawyer and engineer with you.
  • mckee4mckee4 Posts: 47
    For those that have replaced their brakes at
    various intervals, both pads and rotors...
    My '01 Escape XLT V6 needed both at 29K miles.
    Replacements costs are on par with those listed in these postings, ~$465.00. The Ford Service
    Advisor told me the rotors are 'unturnable' and
    that a lot of auto makers are going to the
    'disposable' type rotors, Mercedes, and the like.
    I've found a reputable independent shop that will
    replace the next set, when needed, with ceramic
    pads (minimal to no-dust), and turnable rotors
    both good after-market brands. I can certainly
    relate and commiserate with all who've undergone
    this expense so far. However, I'll have to
    do the same thing again in about another year
    or 20K miles, this time to a better solution
    hopefully.

    For those with hard-start to stall problems,
    mine was the IAC sensor which a friend/mechanic
    diagosed in under two (2) minutes. I ordered
    the part (Motorcraft) from a parts-house which
    was about 15% cheaper than getting it through
    a dealership. The part will be about $60.00.
    This may not be the same problem or even the
    right fix for everyone, but it was for mine.
    The fix literally took 5-minutes tops because
    the IAC sits on top near the air intake closer
    to the engine.

    There have been a few other minor problems but
    overall this vehicle has been no more problematic
    that other vehicles I've owned and less than
    others. Independent mechanic shop has recommended
    de-carboning the intake throttle body about
    every 15K miles. They showed me how do it myself
    and save $60 - $70. They claim that this procedure will reduce carbon build-up which occurs
    in all autos but especially in a lot of Ford
    products.
  • baggs32baggs32 Posts: 3,209
    mckee4,
    Are you able to post the procedures for cleaning the intake?

    Thanks.
  • rudy32rudy32 Posts: 3
    Have a 2001 Ford Escape with 57,000 miles. Car will start, but will not turn over. Takes up to 20 minutes for the car to start sometimes. In all cases I need to step on the gas to get the engine running. One time when the car finally started, I started driving it and it lost all power. Luckily, I was in an empty parking lot. This happened only once.

    Took the car to a local mechanic. He could not figure out what was wrong. Ran it through the computer tests. He replaced the fuel filter and the fuel pump relay -- said this was the cheapest route. Other alternatives would be more costly.

    Has anyone else had this problem? Were you able to correct it? What was the cost and did you go the Ford dealer?
  • Hi: I have a 2002 MY - V6, 4x4 .. with 36K+ miles.

    1. I have a noise issue with the vehicle. At about 35 MPH and at high way speeds, I hear a periodic noise from the right wheel area. Appears as though the bearings or something is gone. Took it to the dealer, he tell me that the tires are cupped and so on. He is refusing to fix the same. The tires are original tires, rotated and are in excellent condition.
    Apparently, at 34K+ miles, I had a similar issue and they had replace the wheel bearing, hub part etc. Now they are reneging from fixing the same on RHS. ANY ADVICE OR EXPERIENCE ON WHAT TO DO?

    2. The passenger side front window glass does not close properly at highway speeds. On other windows the problems is not a severe. I have taken the vehicle back to dealership to get the same fixed several times. They keep telling me there is nothing they can do? ANY IDEAS?

    Appreciate your input in advance, Thanks.
  • odie6lodie6l Hershey, PaPosts: 1,078
    I had that happen to my Goodyear Wrangler RF-A 60k mile tires at 28k. Lucky for me I purchased the lifetime warrenty FROM goodyear on the tires, so I got replacments free of charge.

    The techs at my local dealer that I get all my work done at said that the problem with the tires wearing out faster is the torque is too much for the size tire that ford is using, and there isn't anything that they can really do about it. The Guys at Goodyear told me the same thing, and that it was smart for me to have the warrenty on the tires. The Dunlop's I have now also have the full Lifetime warrenty on them and lets see if they wear out, I have 38,572 miles on my escape now, but only just over 10k on the new tires.

    Odie
  • I have had the exact same problem with my 2001 tribute. I had it towed 4 times in the last month. I told the dealership that another member from this board had the same problem and they replaced the air intake valve. They found a bulletin on the "tech support line" that also suggested this fix. So...after months of this crap they replaced the valve and I have had not a single problem since. If it were not for this board I would not have known to mention it to the dealer .
  • There is a message above #2282 that refers to the IAC which is what was replaced in my tribute. Sounds like you can buy the part and fix pretty cheap. Good luck.
  • scape2scape2 Posts: 4,119
    please explain to me how brakes are a problem? These are a wearable item and greatly depends on how a vehicle is driven. Replacing brakes at 40,000, or 50,000 or 29,000?? depends greatly on the driver.... And I would in no way complaine at 40,000 for brakes... Don't forget folks.. The Escape/Trib rate the BEST in stopping distance in this class also....
  • The ticking noise was identified as the fuel injectors by the dealership. They told me it's normal to hear after the engine has warmed. I realize there is no correlation between the oil and the fuel injectors ...
  • I'm just researching the front rotor problem with My Tribute. I love the vehicle. but at 25,500 miles I need to replace the pads and front rotors. The pads I don't mind, but there is no reason why the front rotors should be so badly worn that then need to be replaced. The dealer said it was common with the Tributes. Cost $660.00. There's no way, I'm going to keep replacing my rotors every time I need new pads. I'm looking for a third party rotor. Any suggestions? I'll trade the car in for a Nissan if I can't find decent rotors.
  • scape2scape2 Posts: 4,119
    just recalled over 2.5 million vehicles....
  • suvshopper4suvshopper4 Posts: 1,110
    So someone answers your question, about why the brake job at low mileage is a problem (it's expensive!), and that's your best reply?
  • Having worked for mazda service for many years, I have seen and still see many brake jobs. The tribute situation is a nightmare. Although the pads seem to be wearing at a normal rate (nothing under 25k) the rotors need to be replaced with every brake job due to wear. These are not cheap rotors (around $135...each) and it's chasing some customers right out the door. Disposable usually goes hand in hand with cheap, but not in this case. Rotors on a 626 are around $80 each and usually can be cut twice. Domestic car companies are clueless when it comes to quality. Millenia rotors and pads dont even start to wear until 50k, and they provide just as much, if not more, stopping power than that of the tribute.
  • wijocowijoco Posts: 462
    I think going with a quality aftermarket set of rotors is your best bet. Ford rotors are often overpriced and of insufficient quality. Check out NAPAonline, you can get NAPA/United front rotors for $67 each. And I bet they last longer than Ford's. Plus, they should be easy enough to install yourself. Just remember to torque your lug nuts when you put the wheel back on!
  • I know this isn't a problem.. but it seems nobody checks the other Tribute message boards.. so I'm posting here.

    Can anyone point me to a place which would have detailed instructions on removing the factory stereo and installing a new one? Or, if you could just write out how to do it, that would be great too. I don't really know much about how to install car stereo's, but I heard that it is not that difficult, so I would like to put an MP3 CD player to replace the factory stereo. Any help is appreciated. Thanks.

    Also, I found this which looks alot like the same shape as my stereo, so I'm wondering if this is the same way you would remove it:

    http://www.carstereohelp.org/stereoremoval/MazdaMPV3StrR.htm
  • bessbess Posts: 972
    On my Ford Escape, it is not nearly that complicated as the post you reference..

    Go to any automotive store and buy (for around $5) the special tool needed for ford radios. Its a u-shaped piece of wire..

    Note there are 4 holes in the front of the radio(2 on the left, and 2 on the right)..

    Stick one u-shaped wire in the 2 left side holes, and the other u-shaped wire in the 2 right side holes..
    Push gently outward on the wires while pulling the radio toward you.. Remember to disconnect the wires from the back.. and your done.

    A assume the tribute has the same setup.
  • Thanks for the advice. How much did it run to replace air intake valve? IAC? Thanks again.
  • Rudy32, I was one of the ones that suggested IAC replacement to Shona99. I'm glad it worked for her, too and I haven't had to have my Tribute towed since replacing the IAC. Mine was under warranty but the cost per receipt would have been $77 including parts and labor. Good luck.
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