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Ford Escape Mazda Tribute Maintenance and Repair



  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 40,004
    Nope, I think it's just an ad for a law firm.

    The complaint index is based on a ratio of the number of complaints for each vehicle to the sales of that vehicle.

    The problem with this is that any one can make multiple complaints with the NHTSA, whether you own the car or not. The web site doesn't make it clear whether the dupes have been weeded out and VINs etc. aren't required to be entered when you file a NHTSA complaint.

    So I think you have to take the complaint index with the usual grain of salt. Ditto advertising.

    Steve, Host

    Need help navigating? - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • wijocowijoco Posts: 462
    Hmmm...Kimmel and Silverman?

    Jimmy and Sarah???
  • suvshopper4suvshopper4 Posts: 1,110
    That's the lemon law firm that zueslewis was working for, last we heard from him.

    [Aside: Where'd he go, and why?]

    One of the law firm locations in the linked ad is in my neighborhood, but the sign outside the building has been changed. Appears they're not located there any more.
  • escapenutescapenut Posts: 117
    I recently replaced the rotors abd front brake pads on my '01 Escape XLT 2WD V6 with 51K miles
    with aftermarket. I went with the ProStop brand sold at Pep Boys for boh components. The total
    cost for parts was ~$110.00 and I had a mechanic
    friend do the work with me. The pads are ceramic- enhanced and the rotors are turntable, unlike the Motorcraft brands. Guess what ? After one (1) week no brake dust on the front wheels and stopping power seems as good as before. If I had
    gone to the dealer as before, then I'd have paid $300.00 for the parts alone. Definitely worth it to go with aftermarket, though Raybestos and EBC
    make pads and rotors at a higher price, I opted to go with the store brand. I paid my mechanic buddy $100.00 for his time, so I still came out
    $260.00 ahead of the last front brake job from the dealer. Rear brake shoes have ~50% wear left on them at this point.

    Since I changed my spark plugs @50K miles, I've been getting worse gas mileage than before. ~16-17
    mpg current in town to 18-19 before. Spark plug
    type is correct Motorcraft part, can't figure out why. Truck runs fine after PCM upgrade at dealer,
    but plugs were changed after PCM flash. Mechanic
    friend seems to think it may be oxygenated fuel for the area/summer months. I pour a bottle of
    BG 44K in the gas tank every 5K miles to keep carbon build-up to minimum. Any ideas ?
  • norrmanndonorrmanndo Posts: 81
    Did you check the spark plug gap? Maybe the gap is too wide or too narrow.
  • escapenutescapenut Posts: 117
    When the plugs were changed my mechanic friend gapped the plugs, but I never told him what the
    plug gap was until after installation. It is
    .054 for the 100K plugs. He couldn't remember
    what he set the plugs at, but he thought it was .054. Well, you may be right, I'm going to
    pull a front-plug tonight and check the gap.
    The three front plugs are easy to get to once the
    decorative valve-cover is removed. The three
    rear plugs are a pain because you have to remove
    the upper/lower intake manifold and replace the
    gaskets. The process took about 1-hour because so much plumbing had to be disconnected and
    reconnected again.
  • escapenutescapenut Posts: 117
    Just a 'head's-up' concerning a part which may
    wear out and start causing underpinning noises,
    i.e, clanking at low speed, coming to stops, and going over bumps. Originally thought it may be springs or shocks. However, it turns out to be
    a part simply called a 'link-assembly'. It connects to the front strut and front sway bar
    parallel to the strut. The units are 'ambi' and and cost $20.15 each from a Ford dealer. Worn bushings and clanking sound are the result.
    Since there are no grease-fittings, I tried injecting some grease, which worked for about 1-week, but the noise is back. As I understand, it is not a safety issue but just a
    noise annoyance. However, the dealer warned that
    when changing the links, my alignment may be affected slightly. Shouldn't be a big deal changing them out though.
  • drurex99drurex99 Posts: 10
    I love my Trib and have absolutely no real problems with it up to now. I have replaced the original tires at about 50,000 miles and now like a lot of you are faced with a front brake job .I will have a brake shop do them as I really don't have the space,tools,time or knowledge to do a good job. I also have a weird stiffness in the accelerator that may be the throttle body needs either cleaning or replacing. Can anyone tell me if this is something that a weekend warrior can attempt? I have gotten a long (4 items) laundry list of things that my Mazda Manager wants to do on the truck. It would really make my day if I could take some things off it like the throttle body and the cabin filter replacement.
    Since I haven't had many problems I really haven't had my hands inside the engine compartment. Any comments on the difficulty of these repairs? Thanks!
  • mtnbiker2mtnbiker2 Posts: 6
    2001 LX. When the car is cold/cool and I make a left hand turn under power I get a weird whirring/grinding sound from the passenger side front. If I stop and idle, the whirring sound varies as I rev the engine. Very strange. Almost sounds like something rubbing. Any ideas?
  • escapenutescapenut Posts: 117
    Go to a competent shop to do the brake job and ask them if they can provide you with non-Ford
    parts. The Ford brake pads cause excessive dust
    and the rotors are non-turnable. Ask for Raybestos brand and if you can afford it, the ceramic enhanced pads, they're worth the money.
    You may wnat to have the shop (if they do other mechanical work) if they can do your 50K service, it may be cheaper than at the dealer. But ask them specifically how much each service costs. Usually you get a better price in bundle package of services. Cleaning the throttle body and changing the cabin filter aren't difficult, but can be frustrating especially if your engine drowns out in intake-cleaner fluid of you can't get the cowl off to replace the filter element.
    May be best to pay the labor since they're doing some other maintenance items anyhow.
  • normkolnormkol Posts: 134
    I haven't serviced the throttle body, but I have had it replaced under warranty for the same symptons you describe. Apparently there is a special coating in the throttle body, and cleaner will ruin it. Opinions vary over whether it is safe to use cleaner on it or not.

    As for the cabin filter, if you have never serviced it, are you sure you really have one? It does not come standard with the car. I added it myself, and it's a pretty simple job. Instructions should come with the replacement piece.
  • min75min75 Posts: 1
    I just had this problem happen to me as well. I have a '01 Escape with 87k. I bought the "link-assembly" from a Ford Dealer, luckily my Uncle is a mechanic so he is going to change them for me. I just couldn't take the clunking noise any more.
    Good heads up!
  • ron_69ron_69 Posts: 2
    Car stalling, poor acceleration after stop and go: As mentioned, after the PCM reflash, it should fix the problems, I actually just got it done yesterday free at dealer.

    Wierd sound when turning, or sometimes even when stopping rapidly (especially on cold days): First of all, I had 2 problems that attributed to this problem, and I am guessing that most tribute/escape owners have experienced this as well. When the noise comes when it is cold, it could be the steering fluid, it doesn't have time to warm up to work to full efficiency. OR, it could have been a crack/shrinkage/loose belt. I am not sure what the belt is exactly called, but I was told this by a trusted local non-dealer mechanic. But when I went back to the dealer to get it replaced under warrenty, I was told otherwise, however, the noise seem to have disappeared for a short while after the weather got warmer. OR, it could be a lack of steering fluid, which I refilled(after it nearly bottomed out) in the summer when the noise re-appeared and all dealers failed to find the problem. Yes, it does sound stupid,the fluid be the first thing the mechanics check.

    Banging, "clonk"ing sound when turning, driving over moderately rough roads or speedbumps: I got that checked out yesterday, and found out that the "control arm" on the passenger side was "out of place", or messed up, in another words, because a bearing or something got worn out. The 2 components of the bars are basically lying on top of one another, when they should be separated by a plastic looking component. I have the extended warranty, the dealer are ordering the parts and hopefully the extended warranty will cover it.

    Costly brakes repairs: Been there, done that. If you got another brand of brake pads/rotors that you think are good, please post. =)

    Also, have anyone changed their OEM rims as of yet? mine seem to be almost unmachineable (it has too many of those weights on it), so I am thinking of replacing them. Or if you did, did you get the OEM ones? if so, whats the price? or aftermarket, recommandations?

    Thanks all,
  • escapenutescapenut Posts: 117
    Other than the 'link' problem and bad gas mileage at present (not what I need) my '01 Escape XLT is running fine. I am planning on prempting a bad-battery at the 3-year mark. Batteries in this area normally last ~3-yrs. and then if not changed could leave one stranded (been there).
    The Motorcraft battery seems strong now, but summers eat batteries up here and spit them out
    wholesale. I still haven't pulled one of the plugs yet to check the gap, but it may be the culprit.
  • junuseanjunusean Posts: 2
    does anyone know how to change the fog light bulbs for 2004 tribute?? do i have to drop the whole bumper or is it just a screw thats holding on to the light?
  • drurex99drurex99 Posts: 10
    Thanks for all the input . I bought a pair of ceramic Prostop pads (Pep Boys $59) and a friend will install them for me for $100. He tells me that the rotors are fine (surprise surprise the dealership led me on). I'll have him look at the other stuff on the list for me. The list includes Fuel Injection service,throttle body and cabin filter replacement. I got a couple of filters off Ebay for $15 which is a long way from the $80 the dealership wants to do the job.
    Has anyone else been told that Raybestos makes Pro Stop? I was told at Pep Boys that they did but haven't found any written support on it.
    Thanks to everyone taking the time to reply to my thread.
  • snowmansnowman Posts: 540
    total $169 for pad replacement seems higher than shop price to me.
  • drurex99drurex99 Posts: 10
    Yeah, Snowman, you're right about that but my friend will install the cabin filter for me and check out the throttle body while he's under the hood. Any way I'd rather give the cash to someone I know.
  • after i have my IAC sensor changed for stalling problem and PCM flashing/computer upgrade done... heard some annoying shuddering noises and hesitation during acceleration/deceleration.... the first Mazda service in one dealer was not able to fix it.... then brought it to the dealer where i bought it... and have the technician test drive it with me.... and found the noise is caused by uneven tire wear ...but Firestone doesn`t want to do something about it...

    I HOPE THE DEALER/TECHNICIAN DID NOT LIE TO ME... they said he re-upgraded my PCM computer module... so far it fixes the problem....

    ANY SUGGESTION FOR THE BEST TIRE... with AA grade... with less traction noise ?
  • escapenutescapenut Posts: 117
    The PCM flash was done on by Escape about 2 mos.
    ago. So far so good, but I didn't really have the problems dscribed in previous posts. I changed the IAC about 1-yr. ago after near impossible starts for about 2 wks. Mechanic friend diagnosed it as IAC. Took about 5-min. to replace. I just changed over to new brake rotors and ceramic pads and does it ever make a difference in brake-dust elimination. They are fantastic. The aftermarket-brand I bought was cheaper that the Motorcraft pads and rotors too.

    A friend recently bought an '05 Tribute V6. Seems like Ford and Mazda have changed their brake hardware; namely larger rotors, calipers,
    and pads. Definitely looks different than my set-up. They seem heftier, and in the month he's had the vehicle, guess what ????, minimal brake dust.
    So, it seems that Ford may be listening to dealer and purchaser complaints and problems. The engine also seems more powerful and gets better mileage to boot. He says he's averaging 20-21 mpg in daily mixed-driving, some stop-go, tollway mileage.

    I am currently averaging 17 mpg in daily commute, little to no highway mileage except when I get it on the highway and wring it out. I believe I may have a problem with the spark-plug gap from previous spark-plug change, but am unsure. Unless the upgraded PCM flash made the mileage worse, but I can't see that happening. I've kept
    the injectors and intake system clean too.
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