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Ford Escape Mazda Tribute Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • spudsmomspudsmom Posts: 2
    Brandi,

    Have you had the IAC valve replaced? (Idle Air Control) They get really dirty and have to be replaced periodically. This was the cause of one of my two stalling issues in my 2002 tribute. The other time was an issue with the #4 cylinder - they cleaned it, did a fuel system cleaning and it's purred like a kitten ever since.

    Hope this helps.

    T.
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 41,052
    I hope you folks exercise a lot of caution messing around with your airbag wiring and sensors.

    Moderator
    Minivan fan. Feel free to message or email me - stever@edmunds.com.

  • diane03diane03 Posts: 4
    Roundtree, let me know how you made out after driving around with diagnostic computer attached car. Would love to know what causes this problem. Hopefully you won't have to go the extra $$ for remote start.
  • bcesbces Posts: 1
    Just started having problems with my suv when I put it in drive. It doesn't seem to want to go into gear, though it works fine in the lower gears. I took it to the mechanic and he told me that visual and diagnostic tests turned up nothing even though he experienced the same problem when driving it. It seems to be at its worst when the car has been idle. He told me that he is sure that it is the transmission. Can anyone tell me where the problem is and how I can fix its too late?
  • have 2002 escape xlt w tow pkg. and 2005 tribute no tow pkg(added a hitch at u-haul).both have same exact trans cooler in front.no addtl cooling is added with tow pkg,,just hitch! go to u-haul,49$ plus 66$labor to install addtl transm cooler.thats in addition to the factory trans cooler.i tow a 20' seadoo ,fully loaded trailer & fuel=3500 lbs.ford tech said run the heater if you tow at 45-50 mph for distances of 8-15 miles,will be fine. and with the trans cooler ADDED,won't have problem. :) use synthetic oil,5w30,NOT 5w20! thats specified only for FORD to make it's CAFE standards.5w30 will give you much better benefit .read "motor oil bible"and it'll explain.
  • tseteratsetera Posts: 1
    My Escape just started stalling when I let off the gas without warning. No engine light etc. Runs good as long as I apply pressure to the gas pedal. If in neutral and go above 4000 RPMs the engine shimmys. Any Ideas before I bring it to a mechanic?
  • cobra11cobra11 Posts: 2
    I was driving with my air on. The compressor or fan or something seemed to start and stop. The air never stopped blowing but you could hear the system blow hard then soft. After that, my brake light came on, my blinker sound strange and my radio had no power.
    I pulled over and turned off the air and everything else worked normal again.

    Called the mechanic but can't get the car in until Tuesday. He suggested I check out the battery for corrosion on the cables. None, just corrosion on a part of the battery no where near the cables. He mentioned a possible bad ground, I don't know where that is or what it looks like and wouldn't attempt to mess with anything electrical.

    Any possible ideas as to what this could be? What kind of expense? (lost my job a month ago so pretty worried and have an interview next week 45 miles out of town so not sure what to do. Live in Texas and if I have to drive to the interview without air, I'm not going to be looking so nice drenched in sweat.)

    Thanks :sick:
  • boomerf350boomerf350 Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Tribute, V-6 with 92K miles. 6 months ago the EGR valve blew a hole in itself. After replacement car ran good again. During a trip earlier last week EGR blew another hole stranding my wife out of town. A mechanic replaced valve and she headed for home but 10 minutes later car engine lost power and did't want to run. Back to mechanic who advised problem was the catalytic convertors (3) and Mazda had to fix it. Dealer checked and advised all 3 units are plugged and need replaced. Quoted price for repair was over $3K. This is crazy. I'm not sure this car is worth that much but my wife loves the car. I towed the car home myself. Anybody experience similar problem? I'm looking for a cheaper fix than what the dealership has quoted. Thanks, bOOmer
  • rainman64rainman64 Posts: 1
    I just want to say my wipers went out about a year after having it and took it to the dealership that day, found out that there was a recall in effect for this problem and it was fixed by the next day. This was six years ago and have not had any problems since. We have an 2001 Trib with over 123,000 miles on the clock now and still going strong.
    About a week ago we did start have problems with our trib dying when you come to a stop it will start back up no with no problem, I have read on this site that this is contributed to the Idle Air Control. I have not replaced this part yet. I also read here that there is a reprograming that has to be done after replacing the IAC, is this correct and how is this done. Thank you.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    It sounds like your alternator is failing to me....not gone yet, but going...... Have it checked - Auto Zone will do it free, I think.
  • cobra11cobra11 Posts: 2
    Someone else mentioned that possibility.

    My son suggested I disconnect the battery for a few minutes and perhaps the computer would reconfigure. I did that, and haven't had any problems the last few days. However I will get the alternator tested.

    thanks
  • HI, I no the ford Escape/ Mazda Tribute are almost the same. My problem is that my gauges will go from zero then all the way over and back. This happens any time. This includes the fuel, tach, and speedometer. I have been to the dealer and was told of a possible three costly causes. They were unsure of the correct cause. Have any of you had the same problem with your Escapes? If so did you find out the cause? Please let me know.

    Thanks

    Jim
  • ohfemailohfemail Posts: 3
    Replace the battery...I just had the exact problem with my '01 Tribute.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    Yes, Ditto - this is a normal indicator that you are starting with low voltage - common on all Ford/Mazda and many other makes who use the same electronic gear for the dash from the same subcontractor (TRW, Visteon, Delphi & the like). Replace the battery, it'll go away.
  • fsteelefsteele Posts: 2
    after driving on a hot day sometimes when starting again the idle feature does not work. The motor runs fine but i have to use the foot feed to control the idle speed. there is not check engine light message.

    any help would be appreciated
  • I am having the exact same problem with my 2002 Escape - did you end up having to replace all six spark plugs and coils? Did it work? I've had the same issue since September of last year - my Escape will shudder at stops and then the check engine light comes on. I've taken it into the dealer 9 times since September but they haven't been able to "duplicate the problem" and thus don't know what to do other than reset the check engine light. A week ago the light came on again and they got a code P0351 and said to drive it until the check engine light comes on again and then they'll look at the spark plugs. I'm not convinced that this will fix the problem and am wondering if your problem was resolved. Thanks for any information you can provide!!
  • fsteelefsteele Posts: 2
    Your problems seems different. I have a four cylinder car. the car does not show a check engine light. it seems to runs fine except the idle speed is way low during the problem. Your error message p0351 is ignition coil "a" primary or secondary curcuit malfunction. that might be the spark plugs. in the past I have had trouble with the error codes. it would be nice if the code repeated a few time before spending money. I would think you only need to change the affected coil and or spark plug. keep in mind I only try to fix my car. I do not work in the field
  • jrountree, Did you find out what was going on with this? My car is doing the exact same thing. When I start it the engine is so hot it seems, and it barely idles as soon as I go to put it in drive or put my foot on the break it shuts off.
  • bigdog59bigdog59 Posts: 3
    WELL I HAVE A 04 TRIBUTE WITH THE SAME PROBLEMS WITH THE GUAGES. I HAVE TAKEN IT TO THREE DEALER AND THEY CAN'T TELL ME WHAT THE PROBLEM IS. THEY REPLACED THE ALTERNATOR,BATTERY,GAUGE CLUSTER AND THAT DID NOT FIX THE PROBLEM. LUCKY FOR ME THEY DID NOT CHARGE ME FOR THE PARTS THAY REPLACE. I TOOK ALL THE CONNECTOR I COULD FINE AND ALL THE RELAYS, FUSES, RELAYS,BATTERY TERMINAL,GROUNGD TO ENGINE CLEAN THEM WITH CONTACT CLEANER RECHARGED THE NEW BATTERY OVER NIGHT AND STILL I HAVE SAME PROBLEM. ONE THING I HAVE NOTICE THAT WHEN I HAVE THE CRUISE CONTROL ON THE GUAGES DO NOT FLICKER AND THE SUV RUNS FINE WITH NO HESITATION. CAN ANYONE HELP ME OR GIVE ME MORE INFO....
  • gpoulsengpoulsen Posts: 1
    I have a 01 Mazda Tribute V6 and my father and I are trying to replace the plugs. He is use to the older model cars and wants some better direction as to where the spark plugs are in the engine. He doesn't want to pull to many things off without knowing where the plugs are. Am I picking up that there are three in the front and then 3 in the back that are hard to get to? Any guidance would be greatly appreciated.
  • nitrous93nitrous93 Posts: 17
    Hello,
    To answer your question, yes you have three in front and three in back. the three in front can be taken off quite easily, by removing the plastic shield that says ford 3.0L v-6 or Mazda, etc. Very simple. But the back ones, you have to remove the upper intake, Like i said earlier in my previous post it is not as bad as it sounds. Just follow my post from Nov,28. 2007 and you will be just fine.
    :shades:
  • bigdog59bigdog59 Posts: 3
    HI, ANY NEW UPDATE ON YOU GUAGE PROBLEM, IAM STILL TALKING TO MAZDA TECH'S THEY STILL HAVE NOT FOUND THE PROBLEM.....
  • rascal69rascal69 Posts: 3
    Correction on the CD4E. The transmission does have a serviceable or replaceable filter within the transmission, HOWEVER, this is a split-case design transmission so it requires disassembly in order to exchange out the filter. Certainly, this would only be performed during a rebuild operation, not routine maintenance.
  • mickmossmickmoss Posts: 2
    2005 Escape. It has the 3.0 V6 and has ran fine till 2 days ago. It now acts like it is running on 2 cylinders. No power, I cant even get it to move up a very small incline. Check engine light is on so I bought a code reader, gave me nothing but an "E"..I have no idea what that is, possibly error? Anyway, I suspect it is one or more of the O2 sensors due to the abruptness of the problem. I bought a Chiltons manual to locate the sensors and it is not very good at explaining where they are. I ahve found 1 of them but I am not sure which one it is. If anyone has info as to where the other 3 are at could you please let me know..thanks.
  • smudgejetsmudgejet Posts: 11
    I just destroyed a 2005 Escape, 4-cyl, 4-Whl drive.

    Particulars:

    65 MPH on cruise control.
    I broadsided a full size truck (drunk driver blowing a stop sign)

    I walked away with a bruised chest (air bag), seat belt strap marks and some glass cuts.

    I think the Escape did a great job of protecting me. Ibuprofen for the bruised chest.
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 41,052
    Wow, glad you're here to post that.

    Best visit the ER or your doc and get checked out good anyway if you haven't already. Some things don't show up right away.

    Stay safe out there!

    Moderator
    Minivan fan. Feel free to message or email me - stever@edmunds.com.

  • docscorpdocscorp Posts: 1
    I am a student and am planning to buy a 2001 mazda tribute with an odometer reading of 103000 and a price of about 5k. Can you guys suggest is it worth the drill? The car has never been in any problems so far, no known problems, clean car report. Kindly suggest.
  • nitrous93nitrous93 Posts: 17
    Not A bad deal, But please please remember this: You are buying a Used vehicle, and any time you buy a used vehicle you take a chance. First things first: Have a mechanic check it out for you, yeah it might cost you a C-note but its better than 10 or 20 of them. These vehicles can go 100,000 miles between tuneups so if the previous owner has not replaced the plugs, PCV tube, then now is the time. Also have the timing chain replaced, transmission checked and fluid replaced, at least every 50,000 miles, and your coolant/antifreeze replaced and checked. Tributes and Escapes are sometimes notorious for faulty transmissions only because the owners do not do preventive maintenance on them, so make sure the owner has maintenance records or take to a mechanic. Good Luck :shades:
  • tipnkctipnkc Posts: 3
    $5k is approximately the KBB value for that year/make/model vehicle.
    However, make sure the timing belt has been replaced, and the maintenance record is up to date. Used vehicles can look good on the outside, but might have hidden issues in the engine. Having someone that is engine-savvy with you might be a good idea before plunking down the cash.
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 41,052
    If you want a somewhat scary list of a bunch of stuff that could be wrong with a used car, check out the Used Car Buying Checklist.

    Of course, some of that stuff could be wrong with a new one too!

    Moderator
    Minivan fan. Feel free to message or email me - stever@edmunds.com.

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