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Ford Escape Mazda Tribute Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • racenutracenut Posts: 10
    same problem on my 2001 tribute . On the drivers side under the hood you can look down and see the shift lever that is where the cable end is. if the cable came off the lever there all you have to do is reattach the cable to the lever end and what I used was a push nut to hold it in place cost about .05 cents time it took five minutes to repair.
  • Thanks just chatted with the mechanic and expressed my concerns at the price. He explained that the $396 included a transmission service also. I told him to hold off in doing that and just fix the cable for $301 - he says he repairs it by repairing the ends so the problem never happens again!!! seemed wierd to me, how do you repair a cable when it is broken? It's with Mr.Transmission.
  • How do you prevent it from coming off in future? i.e. permanently?
  • WOW! $301 to just fix the cable...how about replacing it since he is accessing it already and do his "magical" repair on the new cable for the same price.

    I think your getting screwed on the price....just my $0.02
  • Maybe so - at least now I can drive it and get to the other problem i am having i.e. it idling badly and having shuttering problem when shifting from 3 to 4th gear.
  • We have an 02 tribute and a 01 escape, they both do that rumble strip thing. I was wondering if you found out what the problem was. I am scared that i am going to be out of some serious money soon. :cry:
  • The shuttering problem, I am having that in my 01 escape and my 02 tribute! Did you find out what it was? :confuse:
  • Change the transmission fluid, that seems to work. It should be changed every 30,000 miles or so.
  • wtdashwtdash Posts: 1
    Please go drive something else. A RAV4 or CRV, perhaps? Yes, they are more $$, but you'll get it back in RESALE. Check out Consumer Reports.
  • kgolkgol Posts: 1
    I recently hit an 8-point buck and this required a new radiator, fans etc. for my 2006 Ford Escape. They did a great job with the repairs but I have noticed that it seems like the radiator fans now run very loud. I can hear them above the engine and when they shut off while i idle or slow down. Is this normal in new fans or should I take it back? Any thoughts?
  • vg33e powervg33e power Posts: 314
    I say take it back, fans should not be louder then your engine. If you replaced everything (fans, shroud, motors) something is either installed incorrectly where the blades may be hitting something when they go on, or one of the motors has bad bearings on it. Or if you didnt replace everything one of the components you did not replace could be broken or tweeked. Perhaps you may have more damage remaining like a bent radiator support where the radiator and the cooling fan/shroud assembly mounts to. Either way take it back and get it looked at.
  • They sell the tone ring seperatly now. No need to have to spend extra $$ on a CV axle, just to get the ring. I have a 2001 XLT that had to have one replaced. The one drawback is that the tone ring sells for 48.00 at the dealership, but I can buy a BRAND NEW axle witht a lifetime warranty for 65.00.
  • cokeloucokelou Posts: 1
    i have a mazda tribute stuck in reverse, did you get yoyrs fixed? louisa@cableone.net
  • jmartin80jmartin80 Posts: 2
    I have been having issues with my ac on my 2002 Ford Escape V6. The blower works fine but it will only blow hot air. I have check the freon level and it is full. It sounds like the compressor is engaging. Does anyone have any ideas?

    Thank You.
  • vg33e powervg33e power Posts: 314
    Have you checked that the temperature blend mechanism is working properly? It may be stuck on hot therefore blowing warm to hot air when A/C is on. Just a thought!
  • rambo64rambo64 Posts: 1
    I have the exact same problem with my 2008 Escape V6 Limited. I too thinks its the transmission. I would be at a stop and start to accelerate and all of a sudden it would seem like the transmission would jerk into gear and squeal the tires. Now it is stalling
    once I am stopped. Did you all ever find out the cause of the problem? I have no confidence in my dealer either. I don't want to spend a $1000 just for them to misdiagnose the problem and be without my car for a week.
  • Our Ford Escape decided to light up the ABS brake light. We are unsure of the problem. Should pulling the wheels and checking the brakes be the first thing we do. I am laid off and do not have acess to a diagnostic tool.
  • jma11jma11 Posts: 3
    Ok, the transmission end of the cable has a plastic press fit part that wears out allowing it to slip off of the shift arm receiver . You can pay $80 plus labor to refit a new cable that will fail again the same way, or it seems your mechanic has a way to replace the bad end of the cable with a better clamp (hopefully). My '01 Tribute cable end failed at 80k miles and I was able to work up a solution by press fitting some vinyl tubing over the receiver, pushing on the cable end and plugging the open end of the tube w/ a set screw. As long as the tubing is in tact there is no way for the cable end to slip off, I'll keep and eye on it :).
  • I don't know a lot about mechanics, however I do know that some of the auto parts stores (like Auto Zone) have the diagnostic computer reader and will plug it into the auto computer system and tell you what the problem is without charge. That way you can assess the immediate need of the auto. Hope this helps, and hope you get back to work soon.
  • vg33e powervg33e power Posts: 314
    Autozone USED to lend you the diagnostic tool to pull the DTC (code). However, the laws have changed since April 1st and they are no longer allowed to do this. You will have to buy the diagnostic tool or know of someone that has one and can lend it to you. Good Luck!
  • racenutracenut Posts: 10
    I work for autozone and we still lend the scan(DTC) tool
  • ggrreeggggrreegg Posts: 1
    I have a 03 with a 2.8 V6 and with a moderate load on vacation my last recorded MPG going into Ks was 30.5 (with a tail wind) coming back to Az going from denver to grand junction (thru the rocky mountains) I avg. 28 MPG. In town and around with A/C I always get 20-21 MPG. It was a salvaged vehicle that I rebuilt. I have to run 25 psi in the front and 24 psi in the rear tires around town cause of the rough streets. On the highway they are 34 front and 32 rear and I drive 65 mph.

    You have a I-4 and you are under powered. Some suggestions I would offer you are: Air up your tires as high as you can stand them. Don't drive over 65, don't use the cruise control on any hills, coast up them and slowly regain speed going down a hill. Put a vacuum operated A/C clutch cutout so when you accelerate your extra 6-9 hp used on the A/C compressor is available or turn the A/C off when accelerating. Take the worthless luggage rack off of the roof. Don't stop light to stop light race. Switch to full synthetic everywhere, diff x 2, trans, motor. Switch to Bosch plus four platinum plugs and change ur air filter every 5K miles and do not use K&N unless you oil and rub the inlet side in powdery dirt prior to reinstallation, other wise they don't work.
  • vg33e powervg33e power Posts: 314
    WOW! are you in California? I have been to three different ones in So Cal and all three told me the same thing..."we don't lend them out anymore, but you can buy one starting at $59.99"
  • peter0688peter0688 Posts: 3
    I have a 2002 Ford Escape XLT V6 automatic transmission and my brake light, ABS light, and airbag light are always on (airbag light blinks a few times then stays on) and I discovered a couple of days ago my cruise control isn't working either. I have already replaced the fuse at location 5 for the ABS unit, ASC unit, and "restraints control module" but the lights are still on and the cruise still doesn't work. I also tested the battery and alternator to make sure they weren't going bad, they are fine. This is probably a simple repair but I don't know where to start. Any ideas?
  • I have a 03 Escape. I would have a computer scan of your system and that can be done free at Auto Zone. But my guess is that it is time for a brake job. That may take care of all three sensor lights...Good Luck
  • peter0688peter0688 Posts: 3
    just checked the new fuse I had put in and it blew also. Something must be either overloading it or shorting it out. It looks like that fuse is a main part of the cruise control system. Besides a bad wire, could anything else be causing this?
  • oldsalt3oldsalt3 Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 Mazda Tribute with 120,000 miles. Just replaced the serpentine belt and wanted to change the water pump belt. The Haynes Manual said to release the tension pully but I don't see one. The belt goes from the cam shaft pulley to the water pump pulley. That's it, and it's tight. ?? How do you get the old one off and the new one on? I thought this would be the easy one but it has me confused. Thanks
  • vg33e powervg33e power Posts: 314
    Per Ford repair manual:

    -Remove the water pump belt cover
    -Cut and remove the water pump belt. Discard the belt
    -Install the belt on the water pump pulley and position it on the camshaft pulley (sort of like when trying to get a bicycle chain back on the large sprocket)
    -Rotate the crankshaft clockwise to seat the belt on the camshaft pulley
    -Install the water pump belt cover

    Hope this helps!
  • motrcyclrmotrcyclr Posts: 12
    Just bought this mazda, it rides nice, has alll the options 'cept heated seats. was a 2 owner, 1st put 52k on it, 2nd 48K. no idea what maintenance has been done, since I got if from a dealer. extremely clean inside, been garaged since the underside is super clean and corrosion free. Body looks like new. paint shows no defects. originally built in august of 2003.

    What does it need, what would be good to do preventively, what would be wasted money "it's not broke don't fix it"?

    never owned a Mazda before, looks like I've overlooked a good thing in the past.
    thanks, in advance, for the help.
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