Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Ford Escape Mazda Tribute Maintenance and Repair

1121122124126127133

Comments

  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,109
    If the fuses check out then the next things I'd look for are (a) burnt out bulbs, (b) problems with the switch or (c) wiring issues.

    It's not likely that both bulbs would be burnt out at the same time but it's still worth checking. My money would be on the switch as the root problem. Wiring issues would be the hardest to trace.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • I just purchased a beautiful (skin deep?) 2003 Tribute ES. A is usually the case after a purchase I have found the tranny noise to be high but the worst thing is the intolerable 13MPG city and 15 MPG combined. It's got 60k mi and my mechanic says everything looks good as far as fluids, filters, etc. The mech mentioned perhaps a bad ECT sensor or other HO2 dowstream sensors. Would that affect mileage that much?
    '03 Tribute almost for sale!
  • Walstone,
    First of all make sure you are running synthetic blend 5W-20, ford motorcraft is what I always used, but any brand of same viscosity will be fine. I have an 02 escape and changed oil in mine to a 10W-30 and got very bad gas mileage. Changed back to 5W-20 and is fine now.Read your owners manual on this, it says it in there, I promise. Also I dont care what any mechanic tells you, change the Plugs now, dont wait to 100,000 miles. and while your there your PCV Valve as well. Hopes this helps. :shades:
  • Thanks for the suggestions. The oil does sound wierd but if it will increase the mileage so be it. Same with the plugs. Any recommendation on brand?
  • Stick with Motorcraft, that is what it originally came with. Using the recommended oil weight will improve MPG, stick to 5W20 Synthetic Blend or Full Synthetic. Heavier weight will bog down your MPG.
  • Same with the plugs, use Motorcraft, Dont buy those quad fire, splitfire, they are garbage,(My Opinion Only). If you want the best MPG's out of your ride, always try to use OEM stuff. Have a good One :shades:
  • wctobywctoby Posts: 1
    Howdy, seems like my escape is in second all the time when first pull out.
    slow to start with then seems ok. its like to shift into high gear going up hill slow.
    have to give alot of gas to get it to down shift.Now it will go in to first if i shift it myself but still slow take off at first then it will pick up speed, it has 113,000 mile. 2.3 cyl auto.
    maybe needs tranny filter? or overhaul?
    any help or ideas?
    thanks
    Wctoby
  • We have a 2001 Ford Escape. It has a very rough idle, especially when the engine is cold. The vehicle acts like it's going to stall when it's idling at a stoplight. We've replaced all the spark plugs, all the intake gaskets, the PVC valve, the IAC, the fuel pump, the fuel filter, the air filter, and had the fuel system cleaned. So far, we've spent over $1000 on this problem, and it's still not fixed. It isn't showing any codes right now, but it has shown codes in the past for an engine misfire, as well as a code for a faulty PVC valve. After replacing the plugs and the PVC valve, the codes are gone, but the vehicle still runs as rough as ever. If ANYONE has ANY suggestions, we'd appreciate it! I really hate this vehicle, and unfortunately, I have to drive at night with three children in the car.
    I also have problems with the air bag sensor coming on, and the back hatch not opening (it stays locked once it's locked).
  • Three things come to mind...

    1. Bad coil/s (although I would imagine this would through a misfire code)

    2. Did you ever overheat the engine? if so, you may have a blown head gasket.

    3. Bad PCM or it needs to be reprogrammed.
  • My issue was finally solved when my dealer did the following (on the invoice): "overlay LG/W wire at PCM PIN 26 CKT 1024 connector C175". The error code they kept getting was P0351 Misfire on No 1 Cyl. It took 13 visits to get this fixed (but they fixed it for free - finally). My car would shutter like it was going to die at a stop light and then the check engine light would come on. This usually happened when it was a very hot day and the air conditioning was running.

    Also I have the same issue with the airbag light. For my car, if something (kid's toy, water bottle, etc) is pushed under the driver seat the light comes on - it must be a short or something. Hope this helps - good luck!
  • Thank you very much for the suggestions! The vehicle has never overheated to my knowledge. I'm betting the problem may have something to do with the PCM, but bad coils could be possible too.

    I'll check into the PCM issue, and if we get it figured out I'll post again so that others with a similar problem can maybe get some help as well!

    THANKS!!
  • Can anyone tell me where the pick up sensor is for the tachometer in a V6 2003 Tribute? I have scoured the internet but can not find anything. Also, have two Chiltons manuals (for different vehicles) but they tend not to cover an automatic transmission in detail.

    My Tachometer is stuck at 3000 rpm with the key in the ignition but the vehicle NOT started. Is there another source for this problem?

    Thanks,
  • If your tach is stuck at 3K RPMs I dont think your problem is the pick-up sensor (which probably is the crank sensor). I think you need a new cluster assembly.
  • Sorry, poor choice of words. The tach sits at zero until I turn on the ignition. Then it jumps immediately to 3K and is stuck there. At some point, maybe a half hour of driving it will begin to function normally.

    That is why I believe it is the pick up sensor.

    Thanks.
  • I still think is your cluster assembly, because the tach gets its signal from the ECM which gets the signal from the crank sensor. If your crank sensor was bad the check engine light would go on and a DTC would be stored. To me it sounds like the electronics in your cluster may have a short or are malfunctioning, but you are more then welcome to get another opinion.
  • About 2 weeks ago, dropped kids off at day care and car wouldn't start unless I gave a lot of gas. Then today, after being parked outside for 6 hours in the rain (not sure if that matters or not), car would start then die- had to keep pumping gas to get it going. Had to keep in neutral and keep rpms over 1 or it would die. Had to drive home (25 miles) with 2 kids making sure I put in neutral as I approached a stop while braking and giving gas at same time to keep rpms up. Anyone have a clue? Got home and let sit for 1 hour, and of course go to start it and it is fine....

    I appreciate any help, as I am on a very tight budget, Love my car but with two kids under three I can't be stranded let alone afford a tow bill. THANKS!!
  • Thanks very much for the info.

    It could very well be the cluster, which is prohibitive to replace just for the tach function in an automatic. Don't even know why they put a tach in an automatic. My Harley, which should have tach, doesn't.

    Thanks again.
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 41,902
    Unlike Harleys, most car engines today are so quiet so need a tach to confirm that you actually started the engine. I've still managed to crank a running engine a couple of times. :D

    Moderator
    Minivan fan. Feel free to message or email me - stever@edmunds.com.

  • I was wondering if anyone has had or is having the same problem as I am. I have a 2006 Ford Escape. Recently it started giving me the problem of not starting. I brought it to the my local Ford dealer and they ran a diagnostics and could not find anything wrong with it. It does not turn over. I thought perhaps it was the fuse, switch or relay but I am begining to think it is the inginition switch, I have anothe appointment on 9-14-09 and would llike to know if anyone has had any trouble like this.
  • Steve,

    I find it hard to believe I need a tach to tell me the engine is running, if that is the sole reason they put a tach in an automatic; well, there are other means (less expensive) to indicate the car is running.

    However, what I did notice is that I disconnected the battery for 30 seconds or so, and then reconnected. I inserted the key in the ignition and turned it on but did not start it. The tach, cycled up to 3k, then back down to 0, then sat there for about 15 seconds, Then went back to 3k. Suspicious???

    In order for the tach to sit at 3K, it has to have some bias signal at the tach

    I can see some sort of electronic circuit feeding the tach input but am not sure what it could be. For the tach to jump to 3K and then bleed off, and then jump back to 3k (not exactly jump, but ramp up to 3K) is strange. All elicited by removing the battery. Or, is this standard, simply by resetting the car's electronics?

    What I need is an electrical wiring diagram for my tribute. Is there a pdf file or ...... something on line I can look at.
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 41,902
    Wiring diagrams are hit and miss, but I've found quite a few online. Try the links in the Online Repair Manuals guide.

    Moderator
    Minivan fan. Feel free to message or email me - stever@edmunds.com.

  • I am thinking of getting a 2006 or 2007 Escape, FWD, V6. How are these vehicles holding up? Is it the same for the Tribute and Mariners?
  • Bmrich,

    It has been my experience that there is a problem with the transmission in both the tribute and the escape (sister vehicles). Google "escape transmissions" and you will discover what I am speaking off. There are a number of reported issues.

    This was the first time I did all the serice work by the book (typically I do the work myself, but on this vehicle I had the dealership perform the work). Alot of good that did. My tribute transmission died at 60K miles and the dealer does not want to claim responsibility. I took the vehicle to TSI transmissions and had it fixed, I was not going to put another dollar into the mazda dealer pocket. $2500.

    I would request the ford dealership kick in a warranty on the transmission for the life of the vehicle before I would consider buying it.

    hwmspec
  • The tire noise is driving us crazy. The service bulletin on the squeaky suspension worked out okay after I told the dealership about it. We were foolish to buy it after the test drive but $ clouded our vision. No wonder it was so cheap. It is cheap! Sad too because I do think it has the best lines of any small SUV.
  • farnfarn Posts: 2
    Hi! Snowman. the car dealers are no different here in the England. i am having trouble with engine mounts on my 2002 tribute 3lt lx auto. over here you can only get parts through Mazda dealerships and they are a real rip off. i can do most things like that myself.but have just renewed the rear engine mount through the nearest dealer and the price was astronomical. have sourced parts through the internet and find that the parts are only a fraction of the price of over there but your shops do not export the parts over here. my main gripe is that at least you have outletets for d.i.y. can anyone suggest any way i can get the parts from over there regards zebedee
  • hwmspec,

    Thanks for the info on the transmission. I read that the Tribute had transmission problems but did not see carryover to the Escape or Mariner. I know they are essentially the same vehicle but I thought maybe the Tribute was a bit different to add its zoom-zoom. I guess I was wrong.
  • ho2who2w Posts: 1
    It's happening to my 2004 as well. Same behavior.

    Started at about 25K. I don't ride the clutch at all when I drive, and my last car had over 120K with original clutch.

    If you notice the problem, let's hope it is still under warranty.
  • mweismweis Posts: 2
    I have on 09' with 8000 on it that I got back in March to replace my MPV. at 300 miles I had to take it back to the dealer because the brakes were not right. They had to redo them. Just before 3000 the battery died completely and had to be replaced. (Could not even be jump started) There is also a vibration i the car that they are trying to figure out. So far replacing motor mounts has not really solced the problem vibration/ noise problem. They told me there was a piece missing from under my hood and that was why my hood was shaking :{ I also noticed a bolt missing from the bumper. I just woner what else might be missing.

    2 questions - 1. How quiete or noisey should my car be? I think our old 98 Taurus is a quieter ride for goodness sake. Noise is all on acceleration.

    2. What is a normal engine temp reading for this vehicle? Mine is sitting right in the middle.
  • bdymentbdyment Posts: 551
    Is your Tribute a V6 or 4 cylinder?
  • mweismweis Posts: 2
    It is a 4 cylinder
Sign In or Register to comment.