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Ford Escape Mazda Tribute Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • racenutracenut Posts: 10
    auto zone only checks engine codes no ABS codes
  • hwmspechwmspec Posts: 10
    Here is a link to read the trouble codes for yourself.

    http://codes.rennacs.com/ABS-Brakes/Japanese-Korean/Mazda-ABS.php

    http://codes.rennacs.com/plugins/MazdaABS/MAZDA-ABS-10-626.php

    You jumper the pins, turn the ignition on, the ABS light will flash with the error codes, there should be a list of codes on the internet or through ALLDATA which you can access via the local library for free.
  • Thanks for the help, but there's no Auto Zone in my part of Canada. Nobody up here gives things away for free! It's to bad!
  • mafsefmafsef Posts: 4
    Panic call from wife - car wouldn't start, steering wheel and gear shift locked up solid, key would turn but nothing happened. First time event - my check showed - car unlocked and locked normally with key remote, key turned normally in ignition but no power except fan was turning - no indicator lights or any other indicators, steering wheel was locked solid as was the gear shift (automatic), after numerous attempts including stamping on brake pedal and operating remote I gave up and phoned Ford roadside assistancce. Prompt response, mech checked battery (OK), checked around engine and concluded starter was problem, towed car to dealer where it sat overnight. Call to dealer next morning elicited fact that they unlocked the car and it started first time. They performed the usual diagnostic checks and everything was normal (as there is no event memory in the computer it only checks in real time) and it continued to respond to normal starts throughout the day. Conclusion - no fault found. I suspect a computer glitch somewhere as the dealer was surprised that there was no power to the indicators and instruments etc. as there should have been. Now my wife is jumpy about driving the damn thing in case it happens again when I'm not available - has anyone experienced this or similar problems and if so what actions were taken.
  • mafsefmafsef Posts: 4
    Addendum to previous message re starting problem. Car ran well for first 15000 miles - no problems. Since then the following has occurred: severe leak from windshield washer reservoir (reservoir replaced), extreme noise from under the hood while stationary and running (idler bearing failure, idler replaced), recall to check for leaks in A/C heat exchanger (leaks found, H/E replaced), reset/menu buttons fail to function intermittently (dealer finds no problem and buttons work when he operates them, but problem recurs as soon as I drive it), failure-to-start problem as enumerated in earlier message (a littlle more info on that - car sat for a couple of hours in 90+ heat, after towing to dealer overnight temp. went down to the high seventies - 90+ temps have not affected car previously so I don't think that is a factor; perhaps a bump from towing reprogrammed the computer???).
    Where is "Ford build tough" if one can only drive trouble free for 15000 miles?
    Incidentally I mentioned a couple of interior design glitches to Ford when I bought the car - indicator panel (outside temp, compass and time) on top of scuttle is unreadable in daylight, lid on center console stowage has sharp corners on which one can bang elbows very easily - should be rounded off: no response from company on what are admittedly minor points but do detract from ones driving experience.
  • javier5javier5 Posts: 1
    I own a 2005 Mazda Tribute (3.0L V6) and have been told that the EGR Valve needs to be replaced. Where I live, it has been difficult to find the part for a Mazda Tribute, but there is a Ford dealer that can order it for me. I would like to know if the 2005 Mazda Tribute and the 2005 Ford Escape share the same engine and if the EGR Valve would be the same. Thanks to anyone who can share some advice.
  • racenutracenut Posts: 10
    Yes they are the same motor but if you go to Ford tell them it`s a escape. You also can try Auto Zone or Advance the part is a lot less money
  • davichodavicho Posts: 190
    edited June 2010
    Same for both...Tribute or Escape.

    Ford Part# XR1Z-9D475-BA or Motorcraft #CX-2071
    List price $86.89
  • cap8cap8 Posts: 1
    I couldn't believe it when I read both of your posts. Have had the exact same problem for almost two years. We took it to the dealer and other mechanics who could not find any problem with it. Replaced the IAC ($55) with ease and have had no more problems. What a simple fix. Why doesn't Mazda have a clue? Thank you, thank you, thank you!!!!!! Living in the desert we can now have a reliable vehicle again.
  • chappy36chappy36 Posts: 1
    the car runs great in the winter whenever the weather gets above 65 it starts misfiring and check engine light comes on. I have replace plugs coils fuel filter and intake rings. Tried gas w/o ethonal no help, dont want to take it to ford, cant afford them any help would be appreciated.
  • frankrealtfrankrealt Posts: 1
    edited June 2010
    Hope you can help, have same problem, trying to find where the Idle air control value is located? 2001 Ford Escape
  • davichodavicho Posts: 190
    Iddle Air Control Valve (IACV) is located bolted on the intake manifold right behind where the throttle body mounts to on a 3.0L V6
  • buyahorsebuyahorse Posts: 2
    I have the same problem as a lot of you. I drive my 2002 Escape on a hot day with or without the air on. Turn it off for a while the start it again or drive on a street that is 25mph with a lot of stop signs and it wants to stall when I push the accelerator pedal starting from a stop sign. I've done a complete 100,000 mile tune up (coil packs, plugs and manifold gaskets). I've seen that other people have replaced the IAC valve so I did that too. Other solutions that I've seen range from replacing components to using non ethanol gas but has anyone found THE fix?
  • mekaniko1mekaniko1 Posts: 1
    I spent $12 to fix mine. What happened was that the linkage pin retaining ring came out, letting the cable and the bushings come out the pin. All I did was put new bushings ($6) and retaining ring ($6 for 102 pieces).
  • My 2003 Escape has had this since problem ever since I got it over 3 years ago. Whenever the temperature gets into the upper 90's, the car won't run. It will START just fine, but the instant I take my foot off the gas to shift into forward or reverse it will die just like if I turned off the key. In other words, it seems like hot weather sets the idle speed to "ZERO". When this last happened about 2 months ago, Ford charged me a whole lot of money to change my upper and lower intake gaskets and told me it was all fixed. So today once again the weather gets hot and STRANDED! The car finally started again after the sun went down. Stranded for about 3 hours. I am sick of this. It runs fine during the rest of the year but if it is hot it is worthless.
  • jrountreejrountree Posts: 3
    My 2003 Ford Escape would also have starting problems when the temperature would be hot or a significant change in temperature in a short period of time. The engine would start but die as soon as you took your foot off the gas. I found that if you kept your foot on the gas and not let the engine return to idle speed that it would stay running (not recommended). After driving it a few miles, and not letting the rpm's return to idle, the problem went away. I have had this problem for the last several years. This vehicle also left my wife and kid stranding in parking lots at the mall and various after school activities. I went to the Ford dealership and they could not find the problem, and after several mechanic's later, I found a mechanic who had a passion finding or a competitive nature in finding problems like this. He replaced the accelerator control module, and I have not had the problem since. It was a fairly expense part, around $230.00. He thinks that it heats up in the hotter temperatures and malfunctions.
  • Did you have to go to Mazda to get the bushings? I know that Mazda will only sell the complete cable assy and not the retainer separately to the tune of $80. Since the cable popped off I need to find a diagram of the assy to see how bushings, cable, etc go together. What style of retaining ring did you use?

    Thanks
  • Does anyone know where there is a repair manual I can get for an 08 Mazda Tribute? Thanks :confuse:
  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 40,137
    Sometimes you can get lucky at your local library (without even going there).

    Online Repair Manuals

    Moderator
    Need help navigating? stever@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • Thank you I will give that a shot. Appreciate it
  • mafsefmafsef Posts: 4
    Two earlier messages defined start problem and no-fix from dealer. Latest hiccup occurred in my garage - steering wheel again locked up in off-center position and unable to insert key, with much sweating and swearing eventually managed to turn wheel enough to get key in but no engine start (door locks actuated but nothing else), more muscle effort finally moved wheel enough to get engine start - it took considerable effort to move wheel!!!! Garage temp. was about 87F.
    Trial and error after previous fiascos showed that when parking and switching off leaving the steering wheel centered allowed a perfect start next time; if wheel was only 10 degrees off center wheel locked up and key could not be inserted. It's obviously useless going back to dealer as they haven't a clue, but what the hell are Ford engineers doing? - There is surely enough evidence here to generate an investigation as there is most definitely a design fault somewhere; I guess it's the old story - after sales problems are of minor concern (money has been collected, bottom line improves) unless there are fatal accidents or safety related problems that may eventually get the governments attention.
    It's a pity that I have to make a comparison but my Mercedes has no problems, is so well engineered and put together and the dealer appears to be on top of any technical questions that again US manufacturers are left in the dust.
  • Did you ever resolve your problem? I have the same issue and it's very frustrating! :sick:
  • i'm working on a 2001 escape with the v-6. when you hit the gas, it sounds like it's sucking a whole bunch of air then engine revs up. after that, the engine idles down very slowly. i've found a small rubber elbow that comes out the vacuum ports, and it's as if it's collapsed from having too much suction. i followed the tube that's attached it to a small box like thing under the injector rail. is that the pcv?? or some kind of max air sensor? the car won't really hold a steady speed because of this. any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
  • davichodavicho Posts: 190
    Yes it is the PCV.
  • ok, i replaced the pcv. when i went to start it to see if that fixed it, it would barely run, and sounded like it wasn't getting any oil. i checked to make sure i didn't miss anything, and restarted it. same thing. while i had it running, i was able to check to see if the pcv fixed my original problem. it didn't. i've been told that it might be the throttle position sensor. do i need to reset the pcm to solve this problem? i did not disconnect the battery when i was working on it. i hate throwing parts at it, because the tp sensor is almost 30 bucks. any help would be great.
  • davichodavicho Posts: 190
    Stupid suggestion, but....

    Did you replace the intake plenum gaskets? Assuming you removed the intake plenum to get to the fuel rail to get to the PCV. If you did, make sure they are seated correctly and that you did not gouch them when installing the plenum back on. If you did not replace them, replace them. You cannot re-use the same old gaskets once you have broken the seal by removing the intake plenum. Also word of advice, if you have not replaced the spark plugs, now would be a good time to do so otherwise you will have to remove the intake plenum once again to replace them later and have to replace gaskets as well again.
  • abruzzzabruzzz Posts: 2
    Hello, I bought my 2009 Tribute new in April 2009. I've been at the dealer over 20 times. Mostly for the same issues.
    -Hoot noise which was kinda fixed but still hear it.
    -Leaking back window
    -Seatbelt fell apart
    -Windows which make strange noises when closing
    -Air conditionner blowing out white crap all over me and dash...(they cleaned it a few times)
    - *******And most importantly the strange noise coming from under me or the engine when I go foward. Its almost like a rumbling noise...sometimes I hear metal in metal and it also happens when I'm going normal slow speed (50km) and with low rpm's. (going over a small hill) Its sounds like a RRRRrrrrrrrrrahhhh and its annoying! I noticed it did it more often when I had the air on. They changed the catalitic comverter and did some adjustments to the catalitic and front pipe and donut but it seems to be doing it even more. The service agent told me if they could hear it and not normal, they could fix it. I had 3 mecanics hear the noise. They all told me it wasnt normal. Now they told me all Tribute's make that bizar noise and there's nothing to be done.

    I'm bringing it one last time to maybe check the manifold and replace everything to stock parts and hopefully the noise will stop or be less noticable. I already spoke to a lawyer and someone at the automotive arbitration plan. I will proceed if not resolved.

    Anybody have this problem? ggrrrrrrrrRRRRarRRR noise!

    I also noticed when I start moving that there's like a loss of power and not constant? Is that a transmission issue? I think it does it more when i have the air on aswell. Like a small jolt....i give gaz and it starts, i lose power, then it goes but annoying since my whole body swings cause there's not a constant flow....does that make sense?
  • Hi

    Having checked fuse 3 for the rear wash wipe system - the rear washer/wipe
    system is not discharging any cleaning solution - the window wash system reservoir in the engine compartment is full and the front window washer dispenser is working. On engaging
    the steering wheel stick control that manages this operation for the rear window I can hear
    what sounds like the motor going. Does anyone have an idea as to the problem here and why it won't dispense cleaning solution ?

    Any help appreciated ...

    Brian
  • davichodavicho Posts: 190
    Clogged nozzle?
  • Yup - after putting further cleaning solution into the dispenser - the nozzle or whatever
    was in the tube - finally cleared itself ... thanks again .. !!
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