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Ford Escape Mazda Tribute Maintenance and Repair

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  • My overdrive light is flashing and I get trouble code p1744. Does anyone know how to fix this. I had the trans rebuilt 10,000 mile ago. this code came up 5000 miles after the rebuild and I took it to the shop and they couldn't find anything wrong so they told me that i should replace the alternator because it was only at 13.9 volts which was low and could cause the code to read. This didnt make sense to me so i checked the voltage and saw that they checked it with the air on and with the air off i was just over 14 volts. The light was off for 5000 miles but is back on again. If anyone knows how to fix this please let me know so that i can tell the transmission people how to do their job. Thanks
  • hwmspechwmspec Posts: 10
    edited September 2010
    Did some searching on tthe web and found this.

    Tell them it is not the alternator.

    DTC P1744 is "TCC - Excessive Slip Detected During Full TCC Engagement". Which means that the Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) is disengaged or the EPC pressure is at the minimum.

    The most likely cause is a sticking or bad TCC solenoid inside the transmission. You can check the connector at the transmission to make sure it is clean and tight and that it is not damaged in any way. That "miss" you felt was the TCC disengaging.

    If the TCC and wiring is okay, then pressure testing of the transmission will need to be done.

    I don't think it would be as much as he guesses. A new torque converter from Ford is about $265.00 and about 8 hours labor. Throw in a $40.00 TCC solenoid and I don't think it'll be more than $1,000.00.
  • I just started having this problem. I showed the Ford dealership your description of the problem , they do not know what your mechanic was referring to. Is it possible to get a part number or description of the part?

    retired18
  • My dealer reprogrammed the Escape's computer (they didn't give me any further detail). The idle speed has not any problem since then, but hot weather is now passed, so I guess I won't know for sure if it is fixed until it manages to go an entire summer without stranding me. There were a few hot days, so I am hopeful it won't happen again.
  • This is my Escape and the fix was a loose ground connection under the rear passenger seat. The problem was found by a voc-tech student working on the weekend at the dealership. Sorry I never posted how the problem was solved.
  • This vehicle has sucked the life out of me! I bought this about 2 years ago for my daughter and problems started the very next day. That's what you get for "AS IS" junk! The first problem took months to figure out, it was the intake gaskets. It ran great for a couple months. The next problem took replacing nearly all the sensors, finally straightened out after replaced the MAF sensor. Once again all is well for several months. Now it has a high rpm problem. Sometimes when you stop and put it in park it will rev up to 4000 rpm's. It used to only be 2000 rpm and just ignored it. but now it sounds like it may blow up if you don't turn it off. today my daughter said it is even idling very high at the stop lights, like 2000 rpm. I'm going to put the old idle control back on tomorrow and see what happens. if that don't work I'll try the position sensor. any ideas on what could be causing this?
  • My 05 is doing this too. Your description sounds as if you were talking about mine exactly. What did you ever figure out was the cause of the noise?
    Thx
  • I broke the bolt on the manifold last night from over torquing. Thankfully I was able to fish the broken end out of the lower manifold. How did you get a replacement bolt in?
  • I'm not very car savvy so any help would be appreciated. I have recently started having problems with the engine. I have V6 3.0L XLT. I recently have had very poor gas mileage (even for in the winter) getting only 212 miles per tank on average as oppose to 260-280. I also have been smelling burning oil outside the vehicle (or inside when the heat is on) and sometimes there is smoke coming from up near the radiator (but it doesn't look like its from the radiator itself). It has about 145,000 miles on it. PCV valve and hoses have all been replaced. There are no oil puddles or anything under the car even after letting sit and run for 5-10 minutes. Any ideas?
  • 1wizard1wizard Posts: 2
    edited January 2011
    Replace the Crankshaft Position Sensor(CKP), and check the wire attached to it. The sensor signals the the PCM when the crankshaft is 60-degress before top dead center(TDC) for cylinders 1 and 5. The PCM then computes actual TDC or any number of degrees before or after TDC and uses this info to control ignition spark advance. The CKP sensor also provides the engine speed signal to the PCM and is part of the misfire monitor circuit.
    Also, poor cylinder combustion that causes engine misfire increases HC(Hydro-Carbons) in emissions in the exhaust. This can overload the catalytic converters and accelerate their deterioration.
    If the problem is not leaky caskets, wires, plugs, coil pack, fuel injectors, or fuel filter this usually is the problem for misfires. I would relace this first before any other options. If the problem persists, check to see if your catalytic converter is clogged.The sensor is small and cost about $34. And if the converter is damaged, check to see if it's still under warranty. I believe most carry an 8 year 80,000 mile warranty. Hope this helps.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    Don't know for sure, none of my Escapes are that far run yet, and haven't had the problem, but a vacuum or EGR leak could be the problem. It could vent the crankcase fumes, which you may smell, and may look like smoke, and could also cause the car to run poorly and reduce mileage. I would look for the exact source of the smoke if possible, or take it in somewhere to have them look. Good luck!
  • Good call on the push nut. I have a 2002 Tribute that also had the transmission cable fall off. Between the tow truck operator and this post I was able to fix the cable on my own. All you need is a 5/16ths push nut. It fits right on the end of the little transmission post as the tranmission post has a little groove which the push nut fits in perfectly. It cost me 34 cents to repair.
  • jill26jill26 Posts: 2
    My 2001 Escape 3.0 v6 won't accelerate over about 10mph and its hard to get it going that fast, when I step on the gas it just barely moves. won't go over 2000 rpms even if its in park. I just changed all the spark plugs and I didn't have this issue before the plugs were changed so I checked to make sure the gap was correct on all the plugs and tested all 6 C.O.P.'s, all was good. After that I started it and the MIL light came on and I got codes p1406 and p1401. I then replaced the DPFE Sensor and there was a small change in my Escapes behavior, didn't idle quite as rough but still won't accelerate. When that didn't work I replaced the EGR Valve and again no change.
    I'm Running out of ideas can anyone help?
  • tomv3tomv3 Posts: 8
    If things were working before the plug replacement, I doubt that the EGR/DPFE components failed all of a sudden. Even one bad plug will allow you to drive OK, just a bit rough and certainly not at peak performance.

    I did my plugs this summer and had no problems. However, I think it is easy to omit connecting all of the hoses since I had one in particular drop out of sight when removed. I don't think is was connected to the EGR, but it made it easier to remove the EGR.

    I would check hoses and electrical connections to the EGR/DPFE and any other components in the engine compartment that may have been removed during the plug replacement. Do the hoses have any cracks that could be leaking air?
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    Any chance the plug wires aren't on in the correct order? Even two of them switched can really mess you up. Failing that, there are many more components and sensors that could have failed to cause this. Sounds like it may actually be in limp mode.....if it has such a thing.
  • tomv3tomv3 Posts: 8
    Each cylinder has an individial coil pack that has a low voltage harness connected to it. No possibility of crossing up the wiring as with the older single coil/distributor design using high voltage cables. The low voltage harness can barely reach its own coil pack much less a wrong one.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    Ok, didn't know for sure if the 01 had coil on plug or not. Clearly, it's not the wires then....
  • I have had problems everytime it rains with the engine light coming on and I take it to have the codes pulled up and it's always the same thing, 1st cylinder missfire. I have the codes cleared and it's fine the next day, but not this time. This time it rained and it now shows a 2nd cylinder missfire and so I am taking it to have the back three coil packs changed and the spark plugs. It kills me that I have heard so many people say that they have had the same problem but yet ford will not do a recall and fix this crap themselves. I have always supported ford against my families advice but i'm starting to see why they stick with chevy. I know all companies have issues with thier vehicles but at least chevy does a recall and fixes the problem.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    This problem is not a design flaw nor a safety issue. Annoying to be sure, but the car is 9 years old! I have had 6 Escapes, still have 4 of them, no problems but one, the A/C condensor popped on my 08. Repaired under warranty. GM never did a recall on the Piston Slap in their V8 engines a few years ago, nor their weak frames that cause a harmonic resonance on the freeway in their trucks ofthe 90s, and I could go on about the 90's Blazers that had a weak roof and bucked back and forth over 60 MPH. The fix for it was, "don't drive over 60, this car was never designed to do so". How about the smaller spare tire in the Chevy Colorado, that if you put on the ground, the axle would bind and break within a few miles. No, GM doesn't issue recalls at all even though their problems are myriad. I see no reason why a recall is warranted on your car, though I understand your frustration.
  • my girls escape is having the same problem. So what fixed the problem with your escape?
  • jill26jill26 Posts: 2
    It ended up being a clogged cadilytic converter, I just cut mine of and straight piped it because only one was clogged and now my escape runs like its new.
  • estarrestarr Posts: 1
    So I put my 2001 Tribute in park, just as the odometer hit 135000. Went to put it back in drive again, and the gear shift in the steering column flopped around like a fish, but it went back in Park.. that's it
  • 1wizard1wizard Posts: 2
    Try replacing the PCV and Crank Position Sensor also.
  • so it must've been the last cat. and not one off the exhaust manifolds. have tested about every sensor. time to start taking the exhaust apart. thx for the help.
  • lornebrlornebr Posts: 1
    I realize that considerable time has past since this post, but your story is exactly the same as mine. I had a '02 Tribute that was stuck in R and when the tow truck driver tried to change this for towing reasons, he ended up temporarily fixing the vehicle. After pushing the gear release button and looking under the hood, he simply used a zip tie (that he just happened to have) and secured the cable back to the metal pin. Everything is working perfectly.

    My questions: Do I really need to get this fixed or is the zip tie a easy remedy? What the part name of the plastic piece that used to secure the cable to the pin?
  • barndt1barndt1 Posts: 1
    Did you ever get an answer to this ? The same thing happened to me and need to know how to remove and replace the bolt Ford part 9Y450. Thansk
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    The Zip tie will break rather soon. The heat from the engine will degrade it quickly. Get the right part in there.
  • no i haven't received any answers to remove intake manifold blots/threaded studs from the engine block.
  • padlangspadlangs Posts: 1
    I experienced this exact same problem with my 2003 model Tribute V6 auto last Friday. Only it cut out while I was driving.

    I was traveling at about 80km/h behind another car in a single lane road. The road opened up into double lanes and I wanted to overtake the car in front of me. I stepped on the gas, the transmission kicked back two gears and the next moment the engine just cut out. The rev's dropped to about 3500 and the engine came back in. It revved up to 4000 rpm and cut out again. It continued to do so for nearly a minute. By this time I have pulled over on the side of the road and reduced speed to about 40km/h. The engine then kicked back in and I continued my trip without any further incident.

    Is there something busy failing and if so, what? Do I need to start looking for spare parts? Any advice will be appreciated. :confuse:
  • escaped1escaped1 Posts: 1
    hi,
    I was having some major issues with the transmission in my 2009 escape.
    The transmission would downshift from overdrive all the way down to 1st or 2ND gear or after driving on the highway then going 30 or 40 mph it would not shift down. So i brought it in and they pulled the transmission and had to replace some seals and clutches. the problem is when i picked up my car on a Friday afternoon it was raining so i just drove it home and parked it and didn't use it on sat. but on Sunday i noticed the hood looked like it was up about 3/4 of an inch. i called the dealer on Monday am and they said that there was no way the could have done anything like that. So i have a friend who is a body man and he said it looks like they bent the radiator support. then i showed it to the dealer they denied they could have done anything like that by taking the transmission out and said i must have done it or the car was in an accident. there is no external damage on the car and the radiator support looks like it has some pry marks on it. The mechanic at the dealer lowered the rubber snubbers and moved the latch but this doesn't fix the problem. It still doesn't look right.

    Any ideas on what to do next?

    thanks Tom
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