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Ford Escape Mazda Tribute Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • wijocowijoco Posts: 462
    are you saying the latch itself is broken or the power lock?
  • The fuel line recall is for BOTH Tributes and Escapes.
  • Hi! You may need to pop the interior panel and check that all clips associated with the door release mechanism are in place. It is not unusual for many cars using nylon / plastic clips - for them to dislodge when two simultaneous (yet conflicting) operations occur. It is not unique to the E/Ts.

    Chris.
  • rcinmdrcinmd Posts: 139
    I've been reading about issues people are having with premature wear of brake pads and rotors on their Tributes and Escapes, and I am hoping to ward off the problem with my '05 Tribute. I have just over 500 miles on it, and figure now is the time to switch to something better. On past vehicles, I have had great luck with Repco Metalmasters ( Now Axis brand I think ). I'm not sure if these are available for the Tribute. I'll check right after posting this. Does anyone have recommendations, utilizing the stock rotors? Brake dust does seem to be an issue as well with OEM. The Metalmasters are excellent in that regard.
  • wtd44wtd44 Posts: 1,211
    I also have a brand new 2005 Escape. I have 637 miles on it. I would not change the brake pads at this time, considering the warranty. Why not wait until a diagnosable need develops? Do you actually have a problem with the brakes? I certainly have no problems with mine.
  • wijocowijoco Posts: 462
    Different rotors are made of different materials. What worked on one car may not on the Escape. If you have rotor problems after switching brake pads, the dealer will NOT honor the factory warranty. I agree with the other poster recommending no changes until the warranty is up.
  • Hi,

    The rotor and pad materials have been upgraded since 2001 (late). Mazda/Ford have made valid adjustments to these items and the differences are noticeable in reduced wear, noise and dust (in most cases). My 2001 Trib wore out its rotors and pads by 38,000kms. THe prices between Ford and Mazda are interesting! IT's cheaper to buy pads from Mazda and rotors from Ford than both lots from either OEM. I opted for DBA (Australia) rotors and Bendix 'Advance' pads for a total third of the cost of the OEMs. Performance is equal to the OEM units and a discernible drop in dust output.
  • rcinmdrcinmd Posts: 139
    Good morning all,

    After posting, I did check online, and then contacted an Axxis ( formerly Repco ) distributor, and his records indicated that the 2001 - 2004 pads are the same. He did not have a listing for 2005. They may be the same, but I have not verified that yet. I have used Repco Metal Masters on Fiats, Alfas, VWs, and found them to be excelent. I don't think I would worry about causing any harm to the OEM rotors; at least I hope they would "hold up". But it could be that the 05s have been changed, and might not have the issues others have said they have had. To this point, with only 550 miles on the vehicle, my only gripe is brake dust accumulation. The Metal Masters reduced that significantly. As for warping, knock on wood, I have never really had the problem on anything I have owned. But the one thing I have always insisted on when installing wheels is use of a torque wrench instead of a pneumatic impact wrench to tighten the lug nuts or bolts.
  • tpeterstpeters Posts: 4
    While re-assembling my upper intake manifold after changing plugs I over turned the bolts (didn't use a torque wrench). Knowing that these were press fit I lost concentration when tightening down and forgot that I wasn't turning into a threaded hole. I over tightned bolt #8 in the tightening sequence and its insert broke loose. The same possibly happened to #5 but not sure; I didn't want to apply any more torque in either direction after #8 broke. The tribute has 83k on it and will probably never need another plug change. Can I leave this the way it is or do I have to replace the lower (assuming the lower is what the upper manifold bolts into). Also, all other bolts 1 thru 7 are probably over tightened and those also I did not want to apply any more torque in any direction to them. Can I losen those after I go out and do what I should have done to begin with: buy a torque wrench and then re-tighten, or will those insert break loose when I turn them?
  • escapenutescapenut Posts: 117
    I agree with most of the other posts in waiting until the brake pads are spent. I changed for the time at ~26K miles and went with the OEM (big mistake). They were quiet to be sure but dusted-up like crazy just like the pads from the factory. The 2nd change-out I did at ~54K miles,
    I changed pads/rotors completely to ProStop ceramic enhanced pads which have minimal dusting
    at most. The rotors are nothing special, except that the replacements can be turned, unlike the OEM rotors which are (were) in essence disposable. The replacement pads are wearing well. The brake shoes have not been replaced even at 68K miles. I was told my the mechanic who cleaned them that they probably still have 50%wear.
    It does seem that Ford has redesigned the front calipers and pads for '05, but I still see alot of '05's with a bad dusting problem.
  • wijocowijoco Posts: 462
    You need to remove those bolts and repair or replace the lower manifold. If there is a helicoil kit that will apply to that intake, it's worth a try. If you leave it like it is you'll end up with a warped upper intake and leaks.
  • bjsteelbjsteel Posts: 1
    Hey dananderson, was this ever resolved? I'm having the same problems with my 01 Escape. It has 46000 miles and just recently started to crank but not turn over, although sometimes it works fine. It's currently at the mechanics shop and starts for him everytime, figures!
  • I have to respond to your (scrape2's) comments about Tribute/Escape Transmission failures being a bunch of Hype... I have been a loyal Mazda man since 1977 and all the Mazdas that I have owned have been problem free; But, I currently own a 2002 Mazda Tribute with just over 100K and just yesterday picked it up from the Shop after replacing the 4th Transmission, "Total Meltdown" Replacements!!!! I no longer have any faith in this vehicle (Transmission) an regret to say have lost a lot of faith in Mazda (Ford Drivetrain) in the process. My failures have nothing to do with proper maintenance, I have always pampered my vehicles and treat them to the Mazda recommended maintenance schedule. There is never any warning of impending failures and they have cost me considerable grief and inconvienience. IT IS NOT A BUNCH OF HYPE... you have just been lucky (so far).
  • Hi Tmerch.

    New clusters and odometers are set at zero as a default. There is no way to programme in a predetermined reading, other than zero. (Actually, it can be done, but only at the factory programming level). As long as you retain the service record of the replacement, which should also record the odometer reading at time of service, then there should be no (legal or other) problems. If the service centre has not included the odometer reading, then ask them to add it.
  • tpeterstpeters Posts: 4
    Can anyone diagnose this one: Half way through a trip from VA to WI, Tribute (2001 v6 x4 auto w/83k mi) started to hesitate on acceleration? I was pulling a light trailer, but the Tribute has tow package. Because it started right after refueling I thought I had gotten poor fuel quality, but it never went away. The engine light did not come until about 100 miles later. Shortly afterward it started to miss and the light began to flash. I ran fuel dryer, injector cleaner, sea foam; you name it through it thinking I had something related to the fuel system going on. It ran rough and idled rough, but always ran, even at highway speeds. This happened once before on a long trip but just went away; so then too I thought it was fuel. This time it's not going away though. When I got home I changed the fuel filter, plugs, upper intake manifold gaskets, checked connections and hoses in the engine compartment, and changed one hose that was bad going to the EVAP canister. After the plug change and resetting of the PCM it ran good for a short while, about 50 miles, and then the light came back on the next morning and the poor idle and stumbling with acceleration started up again sometimes flashing, missing with hard acceleration. It seems to stumble consistently at a gear change at around 48 mph (don't recall rpm's) and acceleration after releasing the peddle to slow down. I can work through it by feathering (lightly pumping/ tapping) the gas peddle; it runs fine while holding a consistent speed. Fuel consumption seems higher than normal. When idling, it runs rough. In park its better but when it’s cold you can hear a slight back fire/miss out of the exhaust pipe. I'm about to spring for the code reader and find out what the computer is saying but didn't want to spend the $80 to find out a dealer had to take it anyway. Any ideas?
  • timltiml Posts: 1
    I recently purchased a pre-owned 02 Escape and wish I never had set eyes on the thing.

    The second day I had it, we had some torrential rain, so I didn't do any driving, just left in the driveway. The next morning, I found both the driver's side and passenger's side floorboards covered in rain water. No water anywhere else to indicate a leaking window, windshield or moonroof. Just in the floor.

    I took it back to the dealer the next day and he agreed to fix it. Turns out, Ford has known about the problem for awhile now, but just doesn't wan to issue a recall because it affects Escape, Explorer, Expedition, Excursion, and the new Mustangs. Seems the factory either didn't use enough sealant between the seams at the front of the cab or in the Mustang's case, none at all. Both fenders had to be removed and sealant added to the seams. Al all day job.

    Anyway, the dealer did this for me at no charge, so I can't really complain about it.

    However, now it seems there is another problem. Twice now I have hopped in and turned the key over and nothing happens. This morning, my wife and son were getting ready to leave for church when it happened for the first time. I tried to jump start it from my truck but still nothing. Engine would not turn over, starter did not spin, nothing, all the lights on the dash lit up and that god-forsaken seat belt chime was in fine working condition. Anybody know where I can locate that thing so I can disconnect it?

    Anyway, we drove my truck to church. When I got back a couple of hours later, it started right up. In fact we drove around town, visited her granddad, left again and drove to my folks house in another town about 40 miles away, drove back, no problem. Came inside to drop off some groceries and were heading back out to go to her parents house down the street and nothing. No engine turning, no starter spin, nothing. Just like before.

    Now, knowing that the dealer took off the interior panels to find the leak, I thought maybe the fuel pump inertia switch. So I took it out. It works fine. Then I thought well maybe it is some funny code in the computer, so I disconnect the battery for about 20 minutes, hoping it will reset to factory defaults. Still nothing. I switch around my fuel pump relay and starter relay with the defroster and cooling fan relays, they are all the same part numbers. Still nothing. I check my cables, they are fine, I pull of the aircleaner and throttle body hose and check the connections at the starter, they are fine, still nothing.

    In all, I spent about an hour and a half just checking things and it still will not make a sound. I know the fuel pump is working, I can hear it turn on when I turn the key. I even took the advise I found on this message board and "jiggled" the transmission shifter, hoping that would engage the interlock switch, still nothing.

    I don't know what to do. If I take it to the dealer, I'm sure he will say that I bought it as is and he has already helped more than he should have. I'd like to be able to fix this myself. It seems like it should be something really simple.

    As a side note, the keyless entry has never worked on it. I know it has keyless entry, it's an XLT and loaded, I can't imagine it wouldn't have it. And the THEFT light come on in the dash each time I turn over the key, so I'm sure it is equipped. Perhaps the two issues are related?

    Anyway, any advice would be appreciated. Please e-mail to t1mlew1s@aol.com. Thanks.
  • tpeterstpeters Posts: 4
    Thanks, took care of that and didn't have to helicoil though. It turned out the bolt snapped. I was surprised at that as I really didn't think I was turning down that hard. I thought the insert would give way before the class 8 bolt (was pleasantly wrong). Still have my engine light and acceleration problem though after plugs, fuel filter and hours of frustration thinking what could be going on with this temperamental machine. Please see my post under engine light if you want a challenge, and thanks again for your help.
  • escapenutescapenut Posts: 117
    Sounds like an IAC (Idle Air Control motor) problem I had early on at about 25K miles. The IAC replacement solved the problem for me. But it could be a different problem altogether because I'm not a mechanic. I changed out the IAC (sits on top near the air intake) in about 5-mins. My '01 V6 has performed great without the above mentioned problems since.
    If you do replace the IAC, try and go to a parts-house, you'll get it cheaper
    that going through the dealer-parts dept. I got mine for about $54.00, it would normallyrun about $75.00 at the dealers at least. Do not buy an aftermarket IAC. Only go with Motorcraft brand.
  • wijocowijoco Posts: 462
    Since you have an engine light on, best course is to go ahead and have it read. Probably a misfire code, and the reader will tell you which cylinder is misfiring. Could be something as simple as plug wires.
  • wijocowijoco Posts: 462
    Definitely sounds like an alarm problem First step is to identify if it's factory or aftermarket, then go from there.
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