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Ford Escape Mazda Tribute Maintenance and Repair



  • tpeterstpeters Posts: 4
    Thanks again. I'm off to buy that reader, but have a question regarding those plug wires should that be what I find to be the problem. Will I have to replace those upper intake gaskets again after I pull the manifold?
  • wijocowijoco Posts: 462
    I hate to say "will be" so and so. I jsut meant you need to find the code before wasting time with guesswork.

    I just now realized you're the same guy with the intake and the misfire. I thought it was two different posters. Could you go way back through everything that's happened causing you to replace the intake gaskets, misfire code, etc? Thanks.
  • gaspig1gaspig1 Posts: 3
    I just recently purchased a 2001 Tribute ES. Its got the V6, leather, moonroof, the works.

    I love absolutely everything about this SUV, although, I havent had a chance to try the 4WD out yet as we have not had any snow since I bought it.

    My only problem with it is the gas mileage. I am averaging 13 MPG in the city, about 18 MPG on the highway. This thing is costing me a fortune to drive. I've tried fuel injector cleaners, gas additives and stuff like that. Nothing helps. Mileage has not gotten better at all. I drive it like a little old lady in hopes of improving the mileage.... nada.

    Also, on occasion, when I start it, the engine revs really hard for about 30 seconds, its almost like the gas pedal is stuck down. It doesnt happen every time, but often enough to cause some concern.

    Anyone have any ideas as to why this is happening?? Any suggestions on how to improve the mileage? At this rate, I just may have to get rid of it to get something more economical. :mad:
  • rcinmdrcinmd Posts: 139
    Interestingly, I signed on this morning planning to discuss gas mileage as well. It seems based on many comments that the Escape / Tribute / Mariner family is simply not fuel effiecient, SUV status notwithstanding. While they are not small vehicles, they certainly are not outsized either. Mine is an '05 4 cylinder, 5 speed, AWD. In comparison to yours, I guess I should be thanking my lucky stars, yet I also feel based on the way I have been driving to this point that there is something not quite right with the results I am getting. To date, I have averaged about 21 mpg, but it has been my style of break-in driving, which is with eggs under my right foot, and using 3000 rpm as redline. What I have noticed is that on downhill stretches, both on interstate and secondary roads, where the speed is around 50 miles per hour, when I place the transmission in neutral, the vehicle continues to slow as though I had it in gear or was braking. Granted, it's a non-aerodynamic box, but I am now thinking that there must be tremendous drag in the drivetrain, and I have to give it gas simply to maintain speed even while going downhill. That can't be good at all for fuel efficiency. I wish I had taken the FWD version I test drove on similar stretches in order to compare. This may very well be the first vehicle I have ever had which won't achieve the rated fuel mileage. We'll see once it is "broken in". But in my experience, the additional miles will not result any measureable increase at all.
  • gaspig1gaspig1 Posts: 3
    **What I have noticed is that on downhill stretches, both on interstate and secondary roads, where the speed is around 50 miles per hour, when I place the transmission in neutral, the vehicle continues to slow as though I had it in gear or was braking. **

    I've noticed that too with mine, it seems to drag if you're not contstantly giving it gas, but not all the time. If I'm on a flat road, it coasts along nicely,even gathers speed to the point where i have to brake sometimes.

    Like I said, I drive it very carefully so as not to use a lot of gas, but it still does. From work to home and back, round trip is about 30 km, I use almost 1/4 tank daily just driving to work!!! I had a lead foot in my other cars, drove the bag outta them, drove everywhere and have never had fuel economy this bad!
  • escapenutescapenut Posts: 117
    The Ford 3.0 V6 has been around in various iterations at least for the last decade. It is not a very fuel-efficient engine in the Escape/Tribute/Mariner clan but seems to do better in the cars that it's placed in, for example the new Ford 500, Mazda 626, Mazda MPV, etc.. This is probably somewhat d/t the gearing differences between the SUV's and cars noted. I could be wrong but I don't believe the 500,
    626, MPV, or Freestyle are rated to tow 3500 lbs. like the Escape/Tribute family.

    My current City/Hwy. mileage is about 17/20 mpg. I've achieved nothing better
    in last couple of years on my '01 Escape V6. I guess if greater mileage is desired then we may all have to live with a 'Freestyle'-type vehicle which mileage rating is
    EPA 20/27. I guess if I got on the highway and kept it below 70 mph I might be able to get 21-22 mpg if I was lucky. However, I have a tendency to wring the
    V6 because it seems like it crys for it to done, so my mileage will be on the low-side.

    Of course if gas prices continue to climb I may be back in a compact-car getting
    25/35 mpg and not liking it one bit.

    What I really wish, is that Ford would plop a torquey clean-burn diesel in the Escape a la Jeep Liberty. This would raise the mileage figures by at least several
    mpg for city and hwy. I definitely would consider a purchase as opposed to the
    Escape Hybrid which considering the extra initial cost would take several years of gas-purchases to pay-down.
  • wijocowijoco Posts: 462
    I'm afraid it won't get much better than low 20s with AWD. there's a lot of drag on the rear wheels with the AWD gear, even when it's not engaged.
  • wijocowijoco Posts: 462
    Sound like a bad Idle Air Control. Change it with a new Ford part and see if the fuel economy improves. Also ask you dealer about available reprograms for the PCM for the mileage problem. Just a word of warning, though: a lot of 2001 Escape/tribute owners had trouble with intermittent stalling, and the reflash program cured it but many owners reported poor fuel economy afterwards. You may have bought a reprogrammed Problem Child. It will have to spend some time in the dealer service dept for diagnosis either way
  • isisisis Posts: 6
    My '03 Escape Limited 4x4 has 32,500 miles and is on it's 2nd set of OEM front rotors and 3rd set of front brake pads from the dealer and they dust like crazy ! I can wash my Escape and by the next morning I'm having to wash my front wheels already from the brake dust !
    Do these Escapes and Tributes LAST ? I mean are they dependable when they get milage on them? i bought mine new in April of 2003 and have had problems with the front brakes, it's been in the dealership 5 times now and this Monday coming up It's scheduled to go back into the dealership AGAIN and this time not only for the brakes but the Automatic Transmission is acting up on it ! I'm 100% disabled with a spinal disability and can't have this thing breaking down on me all the time and Alan Vigil Ford in Morrow, GA. where i bought it is NOW trying to stop the loaners and force me into "renting" cars from them for a $50. deposit which I'm supposed to get back if I don't go over 100 miles no matter how long I have the "loaner" ! I paid CASH for the Escape with the insurance settlement from my accident for my spinal cord and was left with enough to pay off my old cars so we gave them away hoping to help out other people. The 1997 I gave away was the BEST vehicle I've EVER owned and wish I still had it. I told the owner of the Explorer that the ONLY catch was they could NEVER sell or trade it and it had to come back to me if they ever got a new car and they signed a paper saying so. He called me last month saying that gas prices in East TN where they live now are getting to be too much for the 4.0 V6 in the Explorer and they'll be giving the Explorer back soon, I CAN'T WAIT !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! It's a 2WD Explorer with the big V6 with LOTS of power, it was that ONE truck off the assembly line that had the EXTRA Mojo and it recently turned over 100,000 miles for a 19971 and the guy said it will STILL spin the back tires if you're not careful on the pedal !
    When it comes back I'm going to try my hardest to get a 3/4 or 1 ton diesel pick up to tow 5th wheel trailers hauling vehicles for Repo lots and auction houses between Macon and Atlanta which I notice a BUNCH of people doing here lately in this area. I can still drive an Automatic transmission if it's equipped with right kind of seating which most newer trucks are. I can't wait to start working again if it's Gods will !!!!!!!
    Does anyone know anybody who has a diesel pick up they'd want to trade even for an '03 LIMITED 4X4 Escape with the Tow Package and Reverse sensors, leather interior, power sunroof, heated seats and side mirrors, power drivers seat with power side mirrors, luggage rack, fog lights,ALL the "03 option are on this escape including the running boards and Medically exempt window tint for my migraines that I suffer from. It Dark metallic Grey with tan leather interior. I have a 7 yr old so the interior has been kept up but needs to be vacuumed ! I instaled a K&N Air filter and a Tornadoe Air& Fuel Mixer for better fuel mileage and HP. It NEEDS after-market slotted front rotors and ceramic brake pads to make it just short of perfect. We've taken it to Myrtle Beach 4 times, Disney in Orlando, Florida once, Pensacola Beach, Florida twice and a round trip up thru the Appalachian Mtns of East TN. on thru N.Carolina East all the way to the coast and south to Brunswick,GA and back north to Atlanta where we live just south of. MANY of the miles on it are Interstate miles and as stated earlier it only has 32,500 miles on it. everyone complains about the small fuel tanks but I've never come close to running out of gas thru ALL of my travels and that includes MANY back road trips being tourists in other states ! when i take into the Dealership this monday I'm having the Transmission fluid drained and Synthetic fluid added, I'm told it will add 2 to 3 miles per gallon in fuel mileage.
    If this little SUV has ONE Redeeming quality it's that it has NEVER (knock on wood) let us down,EVER ! We took it out on the muddy tidal flats in Florida once where a bunch of others were testing their SUVs and trucks in the mud so i had to follow suit. It's the ONLY time we've ever had it in the 4X4 mode and it never spun a tire in the wet mud one time and had no problem in just driving thru the tidal mud when others after us in Toyotas and Honda were sinking and spinning in one spot !!!!! i was proud of my little Escape that day and lots of people were impressed with it since we did have EVERYTHING we'd brought with us on the trip inside the thing. Being a disabled Veteran the Navy guys at Pensacola washed our Escape for us even though I was in the ARMY and they ;) power washed ALL the mud out from under the truck for us as we were carrying an extra couple hundred lbs of mud with us !
  • isisisis Posts: 6
    Just unplug the Red Battery Cable and re-install it ! That'll reflash it , I know it sounds crazy but ALOT of my neighbors have Escapes and I've heard from more than a few of them about this "quick do it yourself fix ". Try it, it WON'T hurt anything. I had to do it with my '03 2500 Ram Quad Cab Hemi and it worked on it as well. It's like re-starting your computer at home , it just re-sets it.
  • wijocowijoco Posts: 462
    "flash" programs are hard coded into the PCM memory. Unplugging the battery won't delete the re-flash done by the dealer any more than turning off your PC resets your BIOS or hard drive.
  • wijocowijoco Posts: 462
    A friend of mine has a 2005 4 cylinder Escape 2wd that developed a problem just off-idle that felt like a throttle cable seizing. The dealer repaired it under warranty by replacing the throttle body. I can't remember if it was a TSB or secret "program" or an actual recall, but if anyone is experiencing the same symptom it will be covered under warranty at the dealer.
  • serkanserkan Posts: 2
    I just Purchased a pre-owned escape 2002. It was quite clean when I left the dealer but in two weeks rust started to develop on the paint (In small orange dots) specially at the rear gate just under the glass. The pain seems to be original but I don't understand how a rust can develop on a 3 year old car. Does anyone else experianced such a problem. I am quite worried to be honest. This happened in two weeks I can't imagine what happens if I keep this car for couple of years.
  • serkanserkan Posts: 2
    I have an Escape whic I purchased pre-owned two weeks ago. I started to see rust developing on the paint right under the rear gate window and rear left window. For a three year car i found it quite unbeleivable. I am suspecting a paint problem. Please let me know if anyone experienced the same and how manufacturer or dealer responded. Thanks
  • Ok, well where to start... I bought my escape used from Hertz with 27,000 miles on it. Had no problems with it at all until i shipped it here to Germany when i got back from Iraq in March of 04. When I picked my car up it had a engine light and it was only an oxygen sensor that needed to be replaced.

    In August I was getting ready to go to Austria snowboarding when the engine light came on (48,000 miles) . The car seemed to shake when the engine was a low RPM or an idle. So i canceled the trip and took it to the AAFES (Army Air Force Exchange Service) Mechanics and they said that they checked the plugs, wires and coil packs, finding no solution to the problem. other than that the fault code was 304, or a misfire on the 4th cyl.

    So i took it to the ford dealer in downtown Bamberg. After a week the called me back and told me that the spark plug in the 4th cyl had burnt off and fallen inside the cyl. They estimated that the cost of repair would be about 2.800 euros, which is about 3,600 dollars. Which as a Private I can not afford. So I had to settle for paying them 300 euros for a new set of spark plugs.

    Then I Called my dealer in California (Salinas Valley Ford) and asked how long the spark plugs last in the escape. He told me that they were good for 60-100k miles. I asked him why they were not changed during my 50k service which I did on my leave while I was in Iraq. I emailed him pictures of the spark plugs. He told me that they do not replace the spark plugs during the 50k service.

    So i called Ford's 1-800 number and after waiting for a long time, talked to a perky person who in a very polite way told me that the 60-100k spark plugs (ford motorcraft) were not guaranteed for 60k miles. And that since I was in germany I needed to deal with ford Europe.

    So i called ford Europe's 0-800 number and after some language problems, was told that since i was an American, with an American spec vehicle. I needed to deal with ford USA.

    So i called ford again, asked them if there was any way they could help me, pay part of it because of bad spark plugs. and in the most polite way i was told to go pound it..

    So I had no choice but to drive it to get to work and such. and with the new spark plugs it was running much better. So here I am 8 months later. The vehicle started to lose some power over the months. but last month, i had a massive power loss on the autobahn going about 120kM/hr, turns out my EGR Valve blew... literally.. so i bought a new one online for 55 dollars instead of 200 Euro that the Ford dealer wanted here in Germany. and replaced it.. Car ran like it did before. 100 miles later, I had another massive power loss, the engine still had some power, but giving more gas did little. almost like it was in an "8th gear" So now I am trying to get it running again, getting it 60 miles to the POV shipment point so i can send it to texas when I leave next month....

    So my question is.... What can i do? Is there a way i can get ford to help me? Should i just get a new engine if i have been driving it this long? Rebuild it? I am just not sure what i should do?

    Thanks for your time, sorry I am so long winded...

  • wijocowijoco Posts: 462
    Ford platinum plugs are designed to last to last to 100,000 miles, so the dealer was correct in not servicing them. If Ford has already said "no" to any financial assistance, then that's the answer. You didn't mention at what mileage the plug broke off.

    I don't understand how the broken plug required a new engine one minute, but ran fine for another 8 months. What part of the engine was damaged causing them to recommend replacement?
  • They broke off at 52,000 miles. The Ford Dealer in Germany said that the 4th cyl had no compression. and to fix it they would have to take the entire engine apart fix what was broken, and put it back together. They estimated it to be about 2800 euros, mostly for labor.

    It ran "ok' for 8 months.. but at lower speeds and at an idle it still shook a bit... and eventually i had to go over 50MPH or so in 5th to keep it from shaking and the engine light from blinking...
  • I have a 2001 Ford Escape V6 4WD and have been having this problem for the last several weeks. When I take my foot off of the break pedal a high-pitched whistle comes from that area of the car. The whistle usually goes away if I tape the break pedal a few times, although sometimes it continues for quite a while. In addition, sometimes the high-pitched whistle is replaced by the sound of leaking air.

    It is really annoying, and is starting to get on my nerves.

    I have taken it to the dealer and they said they cannot figure out what the problem is.

    Any ideas?
  • My symtoms were much the same, turned out to be a burnt valve, No. 4 cyl. with low compression. The fix was a new valve head, took 2 weeks to get all parts in. Was apprx. $1800, but had ext. warr., so was out only $50 deduct. Good luck, M
  • wijocowijoco Posts: 462
    The reason I asked is if the cylinder walls are not scored then the engine can be repaired. At worst you would need a new head and piston, and I don't see it being anywhere near the cost quoted.

    I would be interested in having another dealer or independent shop pull the head and give his analysis without knowing the previous dealer's diagnosis. If he sees damage consistent with a foreign object, then you were getting the real story. It won't cost too much labor just to pull the head and have it looked at. Then go from there.
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