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Ford Escape Mazda Tribute Maintenance and Repair



  • fredriktfredrikt Posts: 4
    Take a spray bottle and mix some fabric softener and spray it on the seats or take a damp cloth, pour some fabric softener on it, and rub it over the seats. This usually helps with the static electricity!
  • rchlslmnrchlslmn Posts: 1
    I purchased a used 01 escape last june with 26k thinking that it would be a good family car. The car has currently less than 36k miles. In January the check engine light came on and I had to replace the CPU (central processing unit). (Yes, I do know that there is recall out on this part - recall was performed - did not fix the problem). In March of this year the check engine light came on again and this time ford said the culprit was a faulty ignition coil (they only had me pay for the part - said they had seen a few of these come in due to all the rains in southern cali this year.) Two days ago my check fuel cap light came on, today my check engine light came on - has anyone else had these repetitive engine lights?? Any suggestions?
  • rcinmdrcinmd Posts: 139
    I have sheep on my seats...... not sure wet sheep would smell very good. I have used sheepskins for many years, and never had the problem with static associated with them. I am still thinking it is the tire compound with the Continentals.
    As for the other sundry creaks, either all my spraying of the suspension and weatherstripping has helped, or the high temps have reduced them. I will apply more lubricant to the suspension joints and seals soon.

    The vehicle is running well, if a bit leisurely. The shifting action of the 5 speed has greatly smoothed out, and frankly is nicer than my Accord's was. Clutch action is as well smooth as compared to new. I test drove a Mazda6 5 door stick prior to buying the Tribute, and it, too, had a very abrupt clutch take up, so maybe that is typical of new Mazda products. The AC is not as freezing cold as the Accord's was, or my friend's Hyundai Elantra, but that is somewhat typical of Mazda from what I understand. Or maybe it is typical of Ford in this instance.
  • pdc2pdc2 Posts: 15
    reply to 3026.

    I have an escape 02 XLT v 6 and had one stalling experience without any warning lights etc, about June 02. Saw the message .1567 and enclosure therein; brought a copy of the quoted TSB to my dealer and had the engine tested and PCM reprogrammed. No further engine stalling to date.
    The same TSB may be relevant in your case.
  • escapenutescapenut Posts: 117
    On my way to work yesterday when the the instrument panel lit-up like a Christmas Tree with every conceivable lamp flashing or staying on. '01V6 XLT
    conked-out at the next stoplight. I was able to start it briefly to pull into a store
    parking-lot. I had it towed to a reputable neighborhood auto-shop. The tech.
    diagnosed it as a bad alternator within five-minutes after testing several things.
    Alternator (remanufactured) - $242.00
    Labor - $157.00 (had to get to alternator from underneath vehicle, take apart
    lower control arm, fender-well splach shield and various other
    Total = $469.00 (including tow).
    Looks to be a valid way to change the alternator per my ALLDATA subscription
    that I checked out. Rather expensive, but it was 2.0 standard labor rate hours,
    d/t dissembly of front parts to remove and install it. That was just about correct
    too. Not like the some of the old alternators sitting up near the top that you can
    to more easilly. Runs great now that it's done, no flashing panel lights or
    electrical glitches. The only forewarning-sign I had was that my radio went dead
    about 2-minutes before I got to stoplight, which I though was strange. Then
    the instrument panel lights went kaflooey, next everything shuts-down. Not too
    good of a feeling being totally shut-down in morning traffic.
    If it's any consolation the shop-owner says that he has not seem too many failures
    on the Ford alternators. He did say he changes GM alternators, ~10-times more often than Ford. Just so happened that mine was the the Ford-one to fail that day
    or week... I'm not disappointed, becasue most alternator failures I've had have
    occurred 70-90K range on most any car I've owned previously.
  • teechteech Posts: 1
    I've had difficulty in fueling my 05 Escape. Something was obstruction the fueling tube into the tank and would cause the pump nozzle to click off, regardless of rate of delivery or how far I inserted the pump nozzle. The Ford service dept. said when they blew out the tube, they found spider webs. Apparently Ford has a service code for that and recommended I install a spider screen. How would it be possible for a spider to construct a web there and obstruct the flow of gas and oxygen?
  • f111df111d Posts: 114
    What ashame, these service departments get worst than better! I sure hope you told the service manager he's been sniffing to many fumes?
    I bet it's the same thing that it's was with the Contours/Mystiques, the one-way roll-over flapper valve at the end of the filler tube sticks. Must have been a big supply of them left over?
    My 98 Mystique every now then does after a sudden warm up in the spring. It's a long story, but I found a piece of 3/16" diameter semi-ridged nylon tubing that about 8 inches long than needed where it contacts the flapper at the end of the filler pipe. Couple easy strokes pull out the tubing and fill away.
    It's great to find a sight like the CEG where a bunch of car buffs sharing info. Especially early in the site's history Ford/Visteon engineers participated in helping us.
    Unfortunately the CEO Nasser put a stop to that and then stopped production to build your Escape.
    I'm lookin for another such site and then I'll buy that car. Of course my 98 Mystique LS built 07/97 I'll be keeping it at least anyother l0 years, waiting for the manufactures to use common sense and offer CR diesel in a drivers chassis car. Tests where conducted a couple years ago in Europe on CR diesel 2.7liter v-6 220 hp 345 ft.lbs. torque @1900 43+mpg at stead 70 mph. It was planned for a Jag model. I lost track of what happened.

  • oskwioskwi Posts: 88
    Well, I have currently am renting a 2005 XLT V-6 and I really enjoy the drive. I haven't driven any type of SUV before so it's a pleasure to be a little higher than a sedan!

    I've noticed some transmission problems with some of the older Escapes and was wondering what types of problems anyone is experiencing regarding the 2004's and 2005's. I can't complain about the gas mileage either...I got over 110 miles per 1/4 tank so far...mixed city and highway driving with the air conditioning's 90+ here (Buffalo) today with VERY high humidity. (I can't give a more precise MPG figure since I've only had the car since this morning, BUT I was figuring I'd be lucky to get 50 miles or so per 1/4 tank...)

    Any info. would be appreciated. I just may go trade my Mazda for a smaller SUV...PLUS with a move down to Louisville in a few weeks, a Ford product may make for an easier transition for a "northener" :) (Louisville has two huge Ford plants that I know of)

    Thanks in advance for any information.
  • fredriktfredrikt Posts: 4
    I installed the trailer hitch hardware to my 2004 Escape which was pretty easy (about 3 hours). Now I need to install the wire harness. The end that connects to a trailer was easy enough, but does anybody know where the little white plastic connector is supposed to be connected to the car?
  • dc_driverdc_driver Posts: 712
    I find this really hard to believe.. My Tribute has done this twice at the same gas station several months ago (cut-off early). I did some research on other Escape/Tribute sites and it turns out that this happens to quite a few owners. I switched to a different gas station and have not had the problem since. Not sure what the problem is, but the problem does not seem to be consistent.
  • heyjude1heyjude1 Posts: 2
    I also own a 01 Tribute and it has clutch problems.... it shudders in first gear, mostly when the engine is cold. This has happened for a few years and I have had a new clutch replaced when it was under warrenty. BUT it still shudders and now the service department at the dealer says that it is caused by the clutch wearing out. NOT! They say that it is not necessary to replace the clutch right away, but to wait til it totally wears out!!! We are going to insist that it is covered by warrenty, but who knows!!!
  • mycar5mycar5 Posts: 1
    Help! Ever since I bought my 2001 Tribute (bought it new), I've had an intermittent problem that occurs more and more frequently now and whenever I bring it in to a mechanic (as recently as this month), they can't replicate the problem. The problem? It won't start. Not a battery problem, apparently not a starter problem...suspect it's electrical or something to do with the security thing (I have to admit I don't know much about cars though). When it happens (with no predictable pattern of occurence), the lights on the dashboard light up, there is no turnover noise, just a slightly buzzing sound. It has always eventually restarted under these scenarios: 1) I leave the car, lock it up, come back in about 15 or 20 minutes and it starts (this method works best); 2) only once has it re-started when I've shifted it back and forth between Neutral and Park and tried started it each time (didn't work immediately, but did after a couple tries); 3) stayed in the car and tried to start it every few minutes, shifting between Neutral and Park, unlocking and locking the doors, tried the other key I own (this has worked twice, but it definitely took the longest).

    This problem is driving me nuts enough to get rid of it, but no one will want to buy it with this crazy problem. Please advise if you have this problem or any ideas about what it might be. Thank you so much!!
  • weiss1weiss1 Posts: 4
    I have 2003 Tribute ( which I love) that blows a puff of blue smoke at start up. It doesnt do it every time but I am concerned. I has 19885 miles on it and the oil has been changed every 3000 miles. The car does not get driven but twice a week. I am going to call Mazda this week. Has anybody noticed this on their Tributes?
  • tnntnn Posts: 4
    Does anyone else have this engine pinging problem?
    My new 2005 Escape XLT engines pings using 87 octane gas. It will ping under the slightest load and going up slight inclines. I've had it back to the dealer at least 3 times, they've decarbonized the engine twice but it has not fixed the problem.
    Then they say they cannot duplicate the problem.
    The Escape has 10K mileage so far.
    Going to 89 octane will reduce the pinging buy won't make it go away.
    Manual recommends 87 octane.

    Thanks for any comments.
  • snowmansnowman Posts: 540
    Duratec engines don't have history of pinging. The best bet for you to have your MAF sensor, coolant temperature sensor and PCM checked. THese are the main 3 components may cause ping. Carbonization should not be an issue for an engine with 10K miles on it.Also, you may have defective plug wires too. The dealer you are visiting doesn't seem like giving you enough attention. Try to visit different dealer.
  • tnntnn Posts: 4
    thanks, sounds like there may be hope.
  • cal0kiecal0kie Posts: 1
    Let's just say all the proper maintenance was done and that I do not abuse the transmission, I have and don't, but what I am mostly interested in is if anyone has had the same experience and or knows if maybe the transmission shop misdiagnosed the problem.

    In brief; I live in the foothills of the Sierras so I do go up and down some pretty good inclines on a regular basis and I had just noticed that there was a whirring type noise as I was headed up the hill to my house. I made a mental note that I better get it to the ship the following day but alas it was too late since the next morning on the way to work it started revving without engaging. I checked the fluid and it was clean and full, no leaks and really no clunking, grinding or breaking type noise leading up to the failure. I had it towed to a Monroe transmission who estimated the cost would probably be around $2.6k at the max. This was on Tuesday and they thought they could have it done on Friday. Well, Friday came and about 3pm when I was going to go pick it up they said that it was not passing their driving test after reinstalling and that they would not have it ready till Monday/Tuesday the next week. Ok I am thinking, better to take some time and get it right. Tuesday I go to pick it up and it cost, guess how much? $2.6k and you know how you sometimes just start to get a feeling that you are not being told the whole story? Well, I trying to get the guy to explain what caused the failure and they were very vague saying this or that "may" or "could" cause a failure. And then he also said (and this is where I started to feel they made an initial misdiagnoses) is that a solenoid was bad and that he was worried the mechanics would have to remove the whole tranny again to replace which he said they didn't and it was easy to replace.

    So, I am wondering if perhaps the solenoid was not what caused the failure and whether the transmission shop rebuilt my transmission when it didn't really have to, at my expense (I believe they rebuilt it and on Friday when they tested it still didn't work and that's when they determined the solenoid was bad). Does anyone know what the symptoms are for a solenoid failure on this make and model is? Any experiences such as this? Am I way off base? If not any recourse?

    Thanks for listening and I appreciate any feedback.
  • escapenutescapenut Posts: 117
    In my car-repair experiences over the years, you'll never get a shop to totally admit that they were wrong. In some cases yes, but as a whole no. Kind of sad that the shops that misdiagnose something end up costing consumers, I would guess, millions every year. My guess is, and I'm not a mechanic, is that it probably could've been the solenoid or possibly a cheaper fix. I'm not saying that the shop is disreputable, just that they may have gotten this one wrong this time.
    As an example, my alternator gave-out a few weeks back. I had my Escape towed to a shop which is(was) purported to be a good shop (in business 20 yrs.).
    They replaced the alternator (turned out to be more than they bargained for) just fine, but in so doing my inner CV joint was messed-up by them, for which they did take repsonsibility. They sent the half-shaft out to reuild it, and re-installed it. Done deal, right ? CV shaft seems o.k., but I've got a strange noise (sounds like knuckles cracking) when I accelerate from a stop either from the suspension, or from the re-built half-shaft. The shop can't figure it out, but swares it's not the re-built half-shaft. They sprayed WD-40 all over the suspension components, didn't do any good (I knew it probably wouldn't) thinking the noise would go away. It hasn't, but hasn't gotten worse to date. The owner-mechanic and his lead-mechanic have heard the noise too, test-driven my Escape and simply cannot figure out where the noise is emanating from (or so they say). They're nice enough and they say that they want to get it right, but have not made a 2nd effort to diagnose it and get it right. Things happen, and anywhere you take your vehicle is a gamble. I will not be taking my vehicle back there unless they can eliminate the noise that they created when they did the original alternator replacement. :(
  • ribrib Posts: 3
    My cruise control doesn't turn on. Is there a fuse to this system? anybody experienced this problem?
  • ribrib Posts: 3
    brake booster
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