Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Ford Escape Mazda Tribute Maintenance and Repair



  • I have a 2002 Mazda Tribute. Recently I have had issues when I go to crank the car. When I crank it, it will try to crank, but then it will die. It has only done this twice. After the first time, I took it to the dealership who couldn't find anything wrong with it. They said that they would have to keep it until it did it again, in order to diag. it. When I contacted my extended warranty, they said they wouldn't provided me with a rental car unless something needed to be fixed on the vehicle. Has anyone else had this issue of the car acting like it won't crank, but after about 5 or 10 mins and a few pushes on the gas, it finally cranks?

    Please help!!!

    Denise :confuse:
  • I just bought this SUV last month. Been driving for a month without no problem. I've been reading about previous problems posted here. It has 67k miles. Runs great, but during the last few days having to turn the ignition 2 or 3 times for it to start. Now today after going to the store...nothing. It does not even click the engine. All the electrical works great. The car never did loose power WHILE driving. With out having to read through all the post, any suggestions? Is there a recall for this, something that can be replaced, the battery, starter, fuses? Thx for any response.
  • Have a 2001 Escape with 61K miles, doing the same crank problem. Works fine in the morning, but when it sits in the heat it takes a few cranks to start. Just got a new battery as well. Gonna try cleaning the corrosion off to see if that helps. Other than that, I would love some suggestions as to whats the problem. Thanks in advance.
  • I've had my Escape for about 3 years now. About a year into my owning it, I experienced the cranking issues. It would take a few cranks and pushing on the gas in order to get it to come to life. Then I'd have to quickly put the car in drive before it would die again. This happened only a few times, and hasn't happened since.

    The same thing happened on my Explorer Sport Trac...Happened a couple times in the earlier stages of owning the car, then nothing afterwards. Maybe this symptom runs in the family... Is this happening every time you try to start it?
  • Replying to my own msg here, but: I found out the problem is with the keyless entry. But it works fine now. I'm happy with the SUV overall so far. I don't know if the previous owner had all the recalls fixed or not.
  • I was wondering if your problem is with starting the car after you turn the ignition switch..does it even turn over or click or anything? I have a similiar problem with my 2001 Escape, it won't turn over but all the electrical works. Never have had a problem though with it loosing idle or motor stopping while driving. I found out if I click my keyless entry a couple of times (lock, unlock), it will start. Weird.

  • I purchased a used 2001 XLT last month and I have the same problem with starting. I found out if I clikc the unlock and lock buttons on my keyless entry a couple of times, it will start. Weird I know, but it works. Must be something to do with the keyless entry wiring system. Were you able to solve your problem yet?

  • It only occasionally has the crank problem...never in morning, always when it sits in the heat in the parking lot for a long time. Its only the been the past 3 days it has done this. It never has a problem when it starts, and usually starts again fine right after driving. I cleaned the corrosion off the battery terminals, but there wasn't much there in the first place. It started fine after that but wasn't sitting in the heat for that long....I'll post if it continues...
  • I have a 2005 Ford Escape that has 10,000 miles on it. Ever since I bought it, every so often, not all the time, when driving between 0-45 mph in slow traffic I have noticed a very high pitch whistle sound as the wheel is turning. It stops when I hit the brake or go over 50 mph and will not do it for days, but it does it every so often. Its very loud and is something to do with the wheel area because as I increase speed it increases. Any idea? I am taking it in tomorrow, but the dealer has really been giving me a hard time, since they can't just take it out, drive it and hear it, because it does not happen all the time.
  • baggs32baggs32 Posts: 3,210
    If you use the e-brake when you park for long periods of time a pad could be sticking shut. Usually depressing the brake pedal all the way a couple of times in a row will free it up.
  • I am now experiencing the same problem with the bearings. I also own a 2002 Tribute. The LX model. I brought it in for its regular service and ask that they diagnose the noise in the front end. They returned the car to me and said that i needed a new set of tires. I then asked a back yard mechanic for a second opinion and he informed me that it was definitely the drivers side wheel bearings. A Licensed mechanic at a private garage imediatlely told me the same thing after he drove it. My wife and I have been lied to and deceived by Mazda dealers from all across Ontario and Manitoba on different issues. Gerry Gordon's Mazda (Winnipeg). Mid City Mazda. (Sudbury). Target Motors (Thunder Bay). Destination Mazda (Winnipeg) :mad:
  • All,

    Hard-start problems may be a result of the IAC (I just changed mine again, $48.00 from the car parts shop. Do not buy aftermarket parts, only Mororcraft). They get real gummy with carbon build-up and are useless after that or until cleaned. I cleaned my old one and replaced it with the new one. I'll keep the old as a spare.
    A lot of IAC's probably need replacing, unless there are really battery or starter problems. Mine starts like a champ, but again I'll probably remove the new IAC to clean it in about another 25K miles. It is or seems to be a more Ford specific problem. The induction throttle plateand surrounding area may also need to be
    cleaned. It's worth 30-min. of your time to do this, but make sure you wear safety glasses, gloves, and have rags to wipe out the carbon residue from the induction or throttle-throat. Also, only use use throttle plate cleaner that is safe for teflon-coated plates. It'll say on the can. I've used 3M brand with good success.

    It may also be that the computer program has not been upgraded on the recall program done for I believe '01's - '04's. A Ford / Mazda dealership should be able to tell with their diagnostic tool if it's been done by your VIN #. If it hasn't been done, you should get the EPROM update for free from Ford / Mazda.

    I'm not a mechanic by any means, but I bought my '01 Escape XLT new and have babyed this vehicle liek no other. I still had some of same issues others seem to be having at present. Wait till you have to change out the alternator, that's a chore for the pros. Cost me $475; tow to shop, $195 alternator, and 2-hrs. labor, because the passenger-side half shaft has to be removed, control-arm dropped, and alternator dropped from below. The shop messed up at some point, the rubber half-shaft boot was blown, resulting in half-shaft rebuild (at their expense) and I've still got a noise from the front-right suspension. It doesn't bother me that much anymore though; there seem to be no permanent problems.
  • At 40,000 My Escape developed a transmission shutter when shifting out of overdrive. The dealer did all the normal things dealers do, The first visit was "couldn't feel it", #2 visit was a bill for $360 to replace 1 plug and coil (Shutter didn't change) #3 visit was to inform me it was typical and I should ignore it #4 visit was to re program the shift points for $250 (an interesting approach to the problem---It wouldn't shift into overdrive).visit #5 was to undo the previous 'repair' and return my money or else (still pending).
    I am in the process of replacing the Escape with a foreign car
  • you saved my [non-permissible content removed], I am having the no start problem. 3 times in the last two months. 2002 tribute es. after reading this site I thought I would see if the vehicle would run without the IAC valve, so I unplugged it -it did not run. so I plugged it back in--it did not run then either!!! but I remembered your post about how to have the IAC relearn its idle. I tried your procedure and it worked. life is good, I am back to waiting for the original "no start" to occur. many thanks
  • Any thoughts on my comments? I'd like some feedback, as I may bring them up next time my Tribute is in for maintenance.
  • Did you get any answers to your park shift and electrical problem message? My son had the gear shift in his 1994 Corolla get stuck in park and the brake lights went out as well. He replaced the burned fuse associated with the gear shift and the new one blew as well.

  • Ya man, thanks for the lengthy discription on the IAC. I am not having problems anymore, but all I did was clean the battery terminals of all the corrosion though there wasnt much. It never does it at all anymore (the slow starting). I think maybe its posslible resetting the computer helped it..dunno. But I am really glad to have a back-up plan (IAC) just in case. Thanks again. :D

  • I have a 2005 Ford Escape I was wondering if anyone knew anything about automatic locks on this car. Other ford cars and many other makes that I have driven in the past have all had an automatic locking system that locks the doors when the car moves past a certain speed or when the car is put into gear. I noticed recently that the escape is not doing that. Is this something that is not on the escape or is there something wrong with my car? Anyone who knows anything I would really appreciate the help. :)
  • baggs32baggs32 Posts: 3,210
    The automatic locks you are describing are not a feature on the 2001-2006 Escapes.
  • by58by58 Posts: 4
    Strange; I've driven 2004's and 2005's, and now own a 2006 Escape -- and the doors all locked automagically when I put it in gear and drive.
Sign In or Register to comment.