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Ford Escape Mazda Tribute Maintenance and Repair

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  • wtd44wtd44 Posts: 1,211
    The best thing I ever did for a Jeep Grand Cherokee was put in NAPA near premium pads and rotors. The cost was close to $300 for parts and well worth it, to get rid of the maddening brake wear that Jeep doesn't see fit to address themselves!
  • Do your brakes make a groaning noise when used downhill or making a sharp stop? Mine do, and I find it somewhat disconcerting. It almost feels like they're slipping.
  • I put Raybestos Ceramic Pads on the front the last change, but the rear brake shoes at 87K miles are still good. My first brake job with Ford was at 26K with the OEM pads for close to $500. I told myself," never-again ..." with the OEM, so I switched to aftermarket and haven't looked back. On average the aftermarket pads have lasted 30-40% better. My current brakes are the 3rd brake job on front. Haven't spent over $250 for parts and labor since the first-time. The Raybestos Ceramic do not 'dust-up' like the OEMS. My wheels looked terrible even after a day's drive with the OEM's. It seems Ford uses the same brake material for all their models; cars, trucks, etc.. The wheels are all black from brake-dust. The ceramic hardly dust at all.
  • I have the same problem. All started after a repair to my windshield wiper controls, leading me to believe its a fuse or something. My seat heaters don't work either, all began at the same time. The manual says the 4wd needs servicing if it blinks 3 times/minute, but I don't know if the 4wd will kick in if needed either. I drove to work today in >12" snow without problems, but its a front-wheel drive car, so not sure if 4wd was working.
  • wtd44wtd44 Posts: 1,211
    My 2005 is all wheel drive and in the snow the response is seamless and excellent, as well.
  • rcinmdrcinmd Posts: 139
    '05 4 cylinder, 5 speed manual, AWD. I agree, the i-AWD is excellent. It might even be more capable than the full time system I had in my 90 Mitsubishi Galant.
  • Hey Snowman,
    I want to flush my tranny oil on my 2001 Escape XLS. First, where is the drain plug relative to the oil drain plug? How many quarts of MerCon ATF oil will be needed? Any other other considerations?

    Thanks.
    DangEscape
  • Don't mean to butt-in, but do you want to drain or flush the transaxle ? Draining alone will empty about 50%+ of the old stuff. There may be a lot of old fluid left in the torque-convertor and other crevices. That's why I've flushed.

    I'll check my ALLDATA subscription on drian plug location if any. I've flushed the transaxle from 25K miles to now ~88K miles, all totalled 3-flushes. If you take it to a shop to flush, make sure that they have the right equipment to do the job. I've BG flushed once and Wynn's flushed the other two (2) times. I really can't tell a drivable difference, other than the Wynn's flush is about 1/2 the price of the BG to have done, $100 as opposed to $200. I also converted to straight Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF from the Mercon V I had originally. I bought the Mobil 1 at Pep-Boys myself and brought it to the shop. The shop only charged me about $50 since I brought my own fluid which was bout $50. The CD4E transaxle takes about 10.2 quarts, bring 11 quarts if you buy it yourself.

    BTW: There is a drain plug located under and off to the side of the transaxle, it seems it has a square recessed cut-out as if possibly for a ratchet, not sure what size. I'll check the shop manuals I've got too.

    As a side, with everything going to online or CD access for shop-techs in dealerships (or a lot of them), for those that want shop-manuals, they may give them to you for free if they can.
  • rayp3rayp3 Posts: 1
    Alot of times the squeak will be the steering horn button. Use some wd 40 and spray in the space located between the steering wheel and column. Should fix it. Use lightly, Don't over spray it.
  • My girlfriend has a very low mileage 2001 Tribute. She recently took it in for some recall work to her Mazda dealer. When she got it back the airbag light wouldn't go off. So, she took it back. They had unplugged the airbags. She drove the car home. Next morning the thing will not start. Everything works but, when you turn the key there is no click, no turning over of the engine. Towed it back to the dealer. They did something. She drove it home and the next morning same thing. I had her try the buttons on the key fob. That didn't work. Can you tell me what it was that you had to do to the Keyless Entry to fix this problem?
  • I have a rattle in my 2003 Escape which is very distracting when driving over certain surfaces, usually concrete above 40 MPH. I have taken off the seat belt parts and ruled out the seat belt mechanism. I have even tried stuffing cut up sponges into the post and it made no difference. Any ideas how to stop this annoying rattle? :mad:
  • I have an '01 Escape, and unless Ford has changed the seatbelt configuration, I've found that the rattle on mine was coming from the belt being twisted where the metal seatbelt insert was hitting the post and causing the rattle. It ussually happens if someone sits in the passenger seat and the seatbelt gets twisted when they let themselves out.

    On yours it could be some piece of metal or something that may have been inadvertantly left in or on the frame during assembly or something that's worked it's way loose. Are you still under warranty, if so take it back to the dealer ?
  • I own a 2003 Ford Escape which I bought new. I had it serviced by the dealership every time it was needed. At 58k I was having some front end noise so I thought I would take it in early and do the 60k service and see if they could find where the noise was coming from and fix it. They call me later that day and told me the I needed brake pads and my front wheel bearing had gone out on me. So I had them do the service and brake pads and wheel bearing and walked out of there $898 less money. Part of the 60k service is to flush and replace the transmission fluid which my bill reflexes they did. At 64k (6000 miles later) my automatic transmission won't shift into 3rd. I took the car into the dealer and they told me something failed inside the tranny and they would have to tear it down to find the problem. Cost: $105 to tell me this. Oh by the way the Overdrive off light was flashing if this means anything to any of you. Anyway I found someone other than the dealer to do the work for about $500 less that the quote I got from the dealer. I'll never go back to another dealer for any kind of service again or buy a Ford again.
  • Read #3288 which is my story. I too was coming down out of the mountains when the tranny went out. I had turned off Overdrive off switch until I got down out to the hills and turned it back on when I hit flat land. Sure sounds like we had the same kind of problem and the got shafted the same way.
  • Looking at buying a really nice 04 DX AWD 5spd. Any thoughts or experiences with this vehicle?

    I've read on the web stuff about Tributes that are made in US vs. Japan -- any specifics to that?

    Thanks all.
  • Really easy. There is a threaded plug on the bottom that a 3/8" socket extension fits. Removing that will drain just under 4 quarts of fluid out of a total of 10 quarts.

    So the procedure is to do the drain, refill it, run the engine for 5 minutes while shifting through the gears and repeat once or twice more or until the drained fluid look fresh. I just did mine using 3 gallons of Dexron III/Mercon. This is a very simple procedure and you can do this yourself, no need to spend money and have someone else do it for you unless you want to. Doing this procedure will flush and change about 80% to 85% of the tranny fluid including the torque converter. The new fluid will mix with the fluid in the torque converter. Even though you can't drain the converter completely unless you have the proper equipment, this is next best method. Use a good brand of Dexron III/Mercon also, Motorcraft is good, but I prefer Pennzoil brand.

    Remember only use DEXRON III/MERCON no matter what the dipstick or the manual says.

    I plan on doing this every 40K miles AND at every other oil change drain the almost 4 qts of tranny fluid and replace with almost 4 qts.

    The Escape auto trans is problematic. Any type of preventive maitenance will keep it running better and longer.
  • I licked the problem! It's the plastic inside door panels rubbing against the metal door frame. Open all doors-remove any screws from the inside door handle grabs and the side of the front door panels. GENTLY grab the panel top edge where it meets the glass (roll windows down first!)Get a good clear lube that does not attract water and dust such as a tube of lube gel from Radio Shack and apply a line on the sides and back of each panel as best you can. Take your time-pop panels back on and viola! The creaking will disappear! ;)
  • i noticed that you owned a b2600
    i have a 87?
    you wouldent happpen to know the fireing order on that would you?
  • wtd44wtd44 Posts: 1,211
    I have also used this excellent "progressive dilution" principle. It works very well for power steering as well as transmissions.
  • jaheaneyjaheaney Posts: 1
    After leaving my ignition key on for 8 hours, my battery fully drained. It started with a jump the next day, but now the radio, inside lights, key fob door lock and trip odometer do not work.

    Any ideas what needs to be done to get electic system working properly?
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