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Ford Escape Mazda Tribute Maintenance and Repair



  • scape2scape2 Posts: 4,119
    Try a little silicon based lubricant spray. Available at any car parts store. Also, don't forget to give your door hinges, locks, hood hinges a squirt too... :)
  • pdc2pdc2 Posts: 15
    Escape XLT 4WD V6 2002 with 50,000KM. There is a low pitched 'whining noise' whenever the steering wheel is turned, left or right. This whining noise is slight and only heard at very low speeds e.g. when parking, turning into the garage (the noise might be there at higher speeds but obscured by engine and road noise). I think I first noticed this noise some weeks/months ago and have been listening for it whenever I remember to; that's how slight the noise is.

    This noise is only heard when the steering wheel itself is being turned; if the steering wheel is held steady, no whining is heard even if the car continues to turn.

    The fluid level at the power steering reservoir is ok. I would appreciate information and advice on this. Thanks.
  • falvarezfalvarez Posts: 5
    Thanks...I have actually tried is more of when you press either the key fob or the unlock button in the hear all the doors unlock EXCEPT for the rear hatch...
  • It is possible that air got into your power steering system. A power steering purge (ie apply vacuum to the power steering resevoir with the car on and turning the wheel from stop to stop for a few minutes) is fast, easy, and cheap. If that doesn't work, changing the fluid from Mercon to Mercon V may help, as there is a TSB on this.

    After that, it gets harder to find and more expensive to fix. Don't put it off, since it isn't going to fix itself, and you don't want to lose your power steering.

  • I have a 2001 Ford Escape that I bought the first year it was out. I have had problems off and on since I got it.
    1. The motor in the passenger door for the window went out, so the window wouldn't go up or down.
    2. The back window rattles and when you close the door it sounds like it's going to fall apart.
    3. The motor mount came apart and had to be ordered and replaced.
    4. There is an irritating rattle that comes from the frame of the truck when you come to a stop and hit the brakes (soft or hard brake).
    5. The seat belt was on recall and had to be replaced.
    6. There was a recall to replace/update the computer software in the dashboard of the car.

    I am sure there is more but I became numb with the issues after a while. It's paid for and basically I am just hanging on to it as a secondary vehicle.

    Would I purchase another FORD or recommend it? NO NO NO!!!
  • There is a Ford TSB for this item that involves two steps:

    1) Remove the boot for the steering column where it goes through the floor, and then spray this area with silicon spray.

    2) Change the steering fluid.

    I would specifically recommend that you NOT use WD-40 on plastic parts, especially anywhere near electrical components. There are a number of those adjacent to the steering wheel, including those for airbags, horn switches, turn signals, headlight switches, shifters, and so on. I cannot emphasize this point enough.

    Also, seat of the pants here, but I'd guess that performing only step 1 will most likely solve your problem. I'm going to try it on our 2002 tonight.

    If you don't have silicon spray, get some. It's great for squeaky doors, sunroof mechanisms, caliper boots, and so on. You should have one anyway.
  • rknopp1rknopp1 Posts: 6
    Is it normal that the rear power windows on the 2005 Escape only lower about half way ?

    Is there a way to lower them all the way ?

    Thank you
  • You'll be hard pressed to find any vehicle that lets you roll down the rear windows all the way, as there is some safety requirement. Something about kids falling out the window. :P

  • wtd44wtd44 Posts: 1,211
    So now you have to boost them... ;)
  • galsfly2galsfly2 Posts: 1
    I have a 2005 Escape with 10,000 miles and have never had a problem until Sunday, when the O/D light started flashing and the car just stopped. It would surge forward about every 5 minutes. The dealership tells me they are "rebuilding" the transmission. My question is - shouldn't they replace such a new transmission with a new transmission vs. a "rebuild" or is this the same thing???
  • twinegartwinegar Posts: 1
    When the ignition is off the horn works normal. When the vehicle is running and I press the horn button on the steering wheel, the horn sounds continuously until I turn off the vehicle and then back on.

    It acts like the horn button is sticking but it doesn't do it when the vehicle is off...Any ideas?
  • jela10jela10 Posts: 1
    I recently bought a pre-owned 2003 Ford Escape 5 weeks ago
    and I had to replace the Hub-bearing already, 2 days before I replace the bearing the ABS light came on and hasn't went off since. As of 4/26/06 my airbag light goes on and off and mt battery light came on today. I only paid $173.00 to Sears Automotive to get it fix but it seems that they are connected to my problems. After 2weeks of having my truck I decided to get a oil change an a alignment, thats when my airbag light came on and 4 days later the ABS light came on. I should have followed my first mine and gotten another Saturn. I own a 13 year old Saturn wagon that never gave me problems, except for regular maintenance.
  • jgeislerjgeisler Posts: 2
    I have the same problem with my 02 Escape, I'm about to put a fuel pump in it. What fixed yours?
  • bri66bri66 Posts: 220
    Has anyone had problems with their sunroof? I noticed last year I had to press the button a few times before it would open or close, but this morning when I tried to open it made a loud snapping noise like something broke, and when I closed it, it didn't close squarely. The passenger side stayed a half inch lower. I believe Ford will need to fix this one unless someone has any idea to help me. I have a 2001 XLT. Thanks. :sick:
  • pdc2pdc2 Posts: 15
    Thanks for the advice. I tried to purge air from the power steering system by turning the steering wheel left until it reached the stop, allowing the car to coast 2 full circles, and then to the right and allowing it another 2 full circles. Repeating the same for some 4 mintues.

    Then tried the same alternate purging turning the steering wheel (whilst allowing the car to move forward on its own as I don't want to aggravate the steering mechanism), pausing for about 10 seconds at the stops. This for about 2 minutes.

    Unfortunate for me, the slight "wisssshing" sound is still audible. The other method of changing steering power pump fluid is too technical for me.

    I think I'll bring the car to the dealership for a check up as the thought of stranded on the highway is too much. But thanks all the same.
  • chuck1chchuck1ch Posts: 15
    I had a 2001 Tribute that had the same problem.

    You cannot just get the switch. You would have to buy the whole enclosure, lights and swithch.

    I decided to clean the switch by extracting it from the enclosure and spraying some contact cleaner into it.

    Worked fine.
  • dan101dan101 Posts: 6
    If the engine seems to run if you keep your foot on the gas but stalls when you remove it. Buy a Haynes repair book and it will walk you through step by step of how to fix it. What i found was build up in the throttle body
  • dan101dan101 Posts: 6
    I have a 2001 v6 escape when backing up it seems to have either a vibration or something dragging it down almost like the emergency brake is on. I doesn't do it all the time. But mostly in the morning
  • bri66bri66 Posts: 220
    Unfortunately it's no longer just the switch that's messed up. I guess I should call Ford and schedule an appointment. Thank you for your input.
  • pgrooverpgroover Posts: 4
    The emission light for my daughter's 2001 Escape (XLS) just came on a couple of days ago. Any idea what could cause this, or how to take care of it?

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