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Ford Escape Mazda Tribute Maintenance and Repair



  • I have a 2006 escape with about 3500 miles on it. I am very happy with it and it peforms well. However lately I have noticed that when I come up to a stop light and come to a complete stop that in about 30 seconds later the car pulsates like it is rocking forward and backward.

    There appear to be no change in the RPM on the dash and I was wondering if the Air Conditioner could be causing the engine to surge like this.

    Any thoughts by anyone out there would be appreciated.

  • mikezakmikezak Posts: 95
    I have the 2005 Mazda Tribute, AWD, with the 4 Cyl engine. It currently has 31K miles on it. Since about 20K, I have noticed that the Accelerator pedal sticks when I try to accelerate from a dead stop -- mainly when the engine is cold (first 1 - 10 miles). Sometimes I really have to put pressure on it -- and then I 'ZOOM_ZOOM' out,...other times I seem to have to 'tap' it loose.

    Anyone else have this issue?

  • fuchsrrfuchsrr Posts: 5
    Hello Tribute owners,

    My cruise control shuts down when I turn on the headlights. Any ever had this problem??

  • fuchsrrfuchsrr Posts: 5
    Hello all,

    My bolt that holds the alternator pully wheel came lose and was spinning freely on the alternator shaft. It makes it appear as if the alternator is failing. It cost me $470 bucks to have it replaced. So please check to bolt and make sure it is tight. FU motorcraft 8 ). If you do need an new alternator go to cost half the price of a new one from dealer $489 got for $189 brand new Bosch. Cost $200 to install. Good luck all.
  • 07110711 Posts: 5
    Question for the host: My husband and I have driven several '05 and '06 XLT's and have absolutely loved the pickup and smooth ride. We decided we wanted to find a 2005 to buy. We recently test drove a 2005 and noted it was slower on the pickup, had to give it more gas to coast along at 40mph, and noted it was noisier (as result of higher rpm's)- a more comparable drive to the earlier year Ford's. The instrument panel also looked slightly different than other '05's we had driven. Also, though it is a V6, there was no V6 emblem on the right side of the rear tailgate. The dealer mentioned the difference in look was because this '05 was the first year production release of when Ford moved the automatic transmission from the steering wheel to the floor center console. He was unaware of any difference in the drive, but said he wouldn't be surprised if Ford had made some improvements in the next '05 production series. Are you or anyone else out there aware of any bugs with the transmission, pick-up, smoothness, etc. with this 1st round of production 2005 model - which was manuctured in 2004? If so, does anyone know if this means the cars made in this initial round might be more prone to the same types of transmission problems Ford Escapes have had in the past? Also, does anyone know (even though it's still early) if the transmission bugs might no longer occur on either the late production '05's, '06's (or even 1st round production '05) now that the shift has been moved? Thanks!!
  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 39,970
    There's some model changeover info in the Used Car Vehicle Overview page at Edmunds.

    Skimming the article, a new engine choice, new AWD system, new floor mounted shifter and new gauge look to be the highlights. The hybrid got all the buzz that year.

    Some owners will have to jump in on the transmission (and other) questions -- moving the shifter doesn't necessarily mean the mechanicals changed.

    Need help navigating? - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • jcsteersjcsteers Posts: 1
    I had the same problem with my '06 Tribute and barely escaped with my life and the lives of the 2 other people in my car. I was on a 4 lane highway going into the 3rd lane at about 61 mph when the gas pedal got stuck. The car revved, like you see in the commercial - zoom zoom. You could hear it going and I could not stop it. My brakes didn't work and I went from 60 to close to 90 blowing my horn and trying to figure out how to stop without killing a lot of people. Then it became unstuck and I was able to move to the shoulder. I had the car towed and the dealership told me it was my car mat. The service manager said he took it out and the same thing happened to him. He said that the winter mats should not be in the car. I told him that whatever he sees there was put there by Mazda when they sold me the car. I'm still not driving the car since he took all of 30 mins with it and didn't check to see if there was anything else that may have caused it. There is no way a mat could cause the pedal to stick for as long as it did. He said he pulled the mat and the pedal became unstuck. I didn't do that so why did it unstick in my case?
    Any similar experiences out there????
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,404
    If this ever happens again, just turn the key to the "off", but not the lock, position. You'll have enough vacuum reserve to use the power brake and the steering, while much stiffer, will work as well.

    Scary stuff.


  • odie6lodie6l Hershey, PaPosts: 1,078
    Shifty is right just to turn the key to the Accesory postion and you can manuver. Or you could have also dropped the can into neutral and used the e-brake very softly to slow you down, the only problem with the 2nd one is, your engine would redline and more than likely blow. Does your floor mat have the little hooks in the floor to stop it from sliding forward. Floor mats can cause vehicles to have sticky pedals, the pedals will get caught on the top lip of the floor mat, just put your foot under the pedal and pull it back. As for the brakes not working...that sounds like a horse of a different color.

    Odie's Carspace
  • mikezakmikezak Posts: 95
    Just to let people know, I do not have floor mats in my vehicle. What else could be the cause? Thanks
  • odie6lodie6l Hershey, PaPosts: 1,078
    the only other thing I can think of is a corroded throttle body or something with the drive-by-wire system. Hopefully it's not the later of the 2.

    Odie's Carspace
  • we had this problem on a 99 hyundai elantra. the contacts in the taillight socket were distorted so the dual bulb contacts were bridging the taillight and brake light circuit so the cruise control thought the brakes were being applied when the taillights came on. the dash lights also came on when the brakes were applied since they were on the taillight circuit. check the brake/tail lamp sockets for worn contacts or improper bulb installation. a single filament bulb installed in a dual purpose socket will also cause this. hope this helps.
  • the abs & brake warning lights were coming on with no apparrent reason. we had it diagnosed at the dealer since i don't know of any other way to pull abs codes on late model fords. they said code 1235 & 1236 were present (left & right rear wheel speed sensors). they also said the front pads were too worn, which could cause the brake warning light to be coming on (which i doubted, but strangely the light stayed out for 3 days after i changed the front pads). both lights came back on at random, so i changed the two sensors, which did not change the lights. anyone hear of brake warning light problems or a scanner which will pull abs codes on the escape?
  • fuchsrrfuchsrr Posts: 5
    Thanks! Uhaul had connected 2 of my break lights together for trailer wiring. I disconnected them and now it works again.


  • you're welcome. glad you got it working again.
  • scape2scape2 Posts: 4,119
    There is a TSB for this issue for some years of Escapes/Tributes/Mariners. If you get down and look at the pedal there a plastic piece with your accelerator cable on the back portion of the pedal. Wiggle the pedal up/down slightly and you can see if the piece is loose. Don't push down though as if trying to accelerate. This piece seems to wear over time and cause a slight sticking. Really no big deal. Take it in and get it fixed.
  • Hello Cartalk

    In June of this year (2006) we purchased a 2002 Mazda Tribute. About a week later we was trying to back out of a parking lot on a very slight incline and it would not backup at all. It seemed to go into reverse but it would not backup the RPMs would rev but the vehicle would not move. After putting into drive and inching forward we was able to place it in reverse and backup. For several weeks we had no trouble with this again. I figured that like some manual transmissions they will get suck in between gears, or something, and you have to drive forward then you can put it in reverse, kinda like a motorcycles do. So a few weeks later we were trying to back up and this time on a gravel road going up a steeper incline and the clunking sound that was coming from underneath the vehicle was tremendous, like we were doing neutral drops or something. That was the last straw. I spent 30 min an empty parking lot making sure that I was able to reproduce the problem every time. It turned out that if I backup like one would from a parking spot at the mall there is no trouble. But if for any reason I have to back up quickly I get the clunking sounds and it will slip into neutral. We took the Tribute back to the dealer ship and said hey this isn't right, and explained how to reproduce the problem. They had a look at it and said it was one of the transmission mounts. So we had them replace it, but it didn't solve the problem. They call their 2nd level support and they said that a new transmission was needed and gave a price a couple of used ones. We were with in 1 day of moving from Oregon to Missouri at the time and were not about to postpone the move due to this and the Mazda dealership was not going to fix it, (to explain why they would not fix it would make this story even longer). Now our 4-year-old Mazda, with 67,000 miles on it, is working on its 4th week in the shop. The transmission specialty shop that it's in now has rebuilt the whole thing and we still have the problem. After talking with the mechanic at great length it turned out there wasn't anything broken in the transmission at all. There was a few warn parts that he replaced but nothing that would lead to this type of unique issue, he even tried a new Neutral safety switch with out luck. So after he researched the issue the only things it could be was the valve body or the ECU. He tried a new valve body and that didn't work. Now we are down the ECU. At this point he has the transmission back apart to double check his work. He will be having a computer hookup to the ECU specifically to monitor when the cycloids are engaging be the theory is that the cycloids are engaging in reverse when they should be. After that the ECU will be re-flashed.

    The mechanic working on it now has my complete trust for various reason AND he is not charging and arm and a leg that I would suspect out of an unscrupulous mechanic.

    So I present this story to the Internet world in hopes that somebody out there has a different theory, the Internet research I have conducted to this point has proven inconclusive.

    Please help
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
    Incidentally, this is CarSpace, an Edmund's website. The CarTalk guys are on the radio. :)

    tidester, host
  • Yea I goofed ;)
    hope somebody still help :blush:
  • John,

    I have a 2005 Escape 4x4 with same problem. 45K miles, flushed at 30k. Did you have any luck resolving your clunk/vibration problem with the transmission? Anybody else have advise?

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