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Ford Escape Mazda Tribute Maintenance and Repair

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  • motrcyclrmotrcyclr Posts: 12
    rascal, thanks for the info. So with 100k miles, I disconnect the input/output lines at the tranny cooler, run a extra hose from the input line to a 5gal can with tranny fluid in it, and the output from the tranny to a disposal container. Have a helper turn on the engine, and run until the fluid coming out is clean, I'll have removed everything harmful, won't have dislogded anything detrimental from the filter, and be ready to go for another 25K miles? feel free to point out anything I've overlooked. thanks.
  • timo888timo888 Posts: 2
    Yesterday, with ~65K on the odometer, the transmission on my 2005 Ford Escape blew up. The dealer says there's lots of broken pieces of metal in the pan and they're recommending a complete replacement.

    Very little to complain about with the Ford Escape. I bought it new and liked it very much from day one. I was just thinking recently how nicely it was riding.

    I had all services performed by the dealer, changed the oil every 3000 miles, and drove the car in a civilized manner. I liked the car so much I planned on keeping it and bought the premium extended warranty (72 months/60K miles).

    Unless the dealer gives me some sort of break because it blew up so close to the end of the extended warranty period, it's going to cost $3600 for parts and labor.

    I've been reading on the internet about this same thing happening to other Escape owners at approximately the same (fairly low) mileage. Is there a central place where such reports are being gathered? Or is this forum "it"?
  • maussiesmaussies Posts: 1
    I have a 04 V6 escape that stalls when the engine is hot. Engine stalls when foot is OFF gas pedal. Continues to run when gas pedal pressed. Starts right up. Can drive the vehicle fine with two feet if I maintain 1000+ RPM's. Once get to higher speed then problem goes away. Air flow Valve? Looking for answers Dealer not willing to help without $$$
  • asus29asus29 Posts: 5
    I don't think its the Idle control valve is the problem, you are having one or two things happening

    1. If it stalls when its hot you are getting vapor lock it may be due to the new gasoline called E-10 Ethanol, the alcohol in the fuel can cause more vapor lock when heat is present then non-alcohol blend of gasoline,

    to solve the problem you need to insulate the fuel rail and fuel lines, fuel filter if under the hood from the heat. and switch to a higer octane fuel. and add octane booster.

    2. What may be happening is Ethanol fuel has lower lower fuel vapor rating, the time the fuel is injected in the fuel port then the valve opens to allow the fuel in, the fuel vapor has degraded€ to a lower rating, when the spark plugs fire the vapor is to low to burn and keep car running so the computer adds more fuel to keep car running, doing this it causes car to stall. and black exhaust will be noticed by the tail pipe, or the tail pipe will have black residue inside the pipe.
    this is unburn gasoline.

    so salve this problem you need to have the computer retuned, or a ethanol conversion kit.

    take care
    _________________________________________________________________

    And Ethanol companies are pushing for a 5% increace to 15% Ethanol. some stations has 20% Ethanol or higher in there fuel so becareful where you gas at.
  • :cry: I have a 2007 Ford Escape I absolutely LOVE my escape. however over the past couple of days it has acted like there is no power in first gear. It will finally shift hard into second gear once you rev it up... when you first take off in it there will be no power and you will barely go anywhere but once it gets out of that gear it will be perfectly fine in other gears.It also shifts really hard when you put it in/out of reverse. Has anyone had this problem? I really don't want to get rid of my escape but i have a 10 month old and i really don't need to have an unpredictable vehicle.
  • mickmoss,

    I hate to tell you this but my '01 Escape with a 3.0 was having the same exact issues, no power, bad idle wouldn't go uphill hardly at all. I changed cylinders 5 and 6 injectors (as the computer said) changed O2 sensors changed IAC changed plugs and wires. Which It may have needed all of that, but, it turned out to be the catalytic converters. Notice the plural on converters. Ford was really using their head with this one. There are 2 pre-catalytic converters and 1 standard catalytic converter. I replaced the standard one and the muffler while I was at it. Problem still existed, so I disconnected the exhaust from the manifold for testing and it the car ran fine.

    So now I try to get to the other two pre-cats. Guess what! you have to buy the entire assembly which includes parts from the exhaust manifold. The cheapest I could find it was $500 (the Ford garage wanted $1,000) So I'm going to sell the thing and let someone else worry about it. I've already dumped $1,000 in the thing and it's only worth about $2,500 anyways.

    Sorry.
  • i had the same problem it was two fold the wires under the passenger side seat got pinched in the track and shorted out the number 5 fuse in the inside fuse panel. i seperated the 4 wires taped them with electrical tape and replaced the number 5 fuse, it worked perfect.
  • sylviahsylviah Posts: 7
    I have a 2005 Ford Escape - it got broken into last week! I got it fixed and now had a alarm installed on it. Now the Parking Lights don't work - the shop that installed the Alarm said they can not find the problem - all the fuses are good. Blinkers work - just no Parking Lights. Any idea's - just spend a lot of money and I really don't have to much left :-( The breakin was the Passenger door window was broken and the door dinged. Nothing else - you guys helped me out before so I hope you can do it again!!! Thank's a lot - Sylvia :cry:
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
    Did the parking lights work before the alarm was installed?

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • sylviahsylviah Posts: 7
    Well that's the thing - I thought that they did but it has been sometime that I had driven at night so I am not sure. The Alarm place tells me that they did not work when they did the equipment check. What do you think that it could be?
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
    If the fuses check out then the next things I'd look for are (a) burnt out bulbs, (b) problems with the switch or (c) wiring issues.

    It's not likely that both bulbs would be burnt out at the same time but it's still worth checking. My money would be on the switch as the root problem. Wiring issues would be the hardest to trace.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • I just purchased a beautiful (skin deep?) 2003 Tribute ES. A is usually the case after a purchase I have found the tranny noise to be high but the worst thing is the intolerable 13MPG city and 15 MPG combined. It's got 60k mi and my mechanic says everything looks good as far as fluids, filters, etc. The mech mentioned perhaps a bad ECT sensor or other HO2 dowstream sensors. Would that affect mileage that much?
    '03 Tribute almost for sale!
  • Walstone,
    First of all make sure you are running synthetic blend 5W-20, ford motorcraft is what I always used, but any brand of same viscosity will be fine. I have an 02 escape and changed oil in mine to a 10W-30 and got very bad gas mileage. Changed back to 5W-20 and is fine now.Read your owners manual on this, it says it in there, I promise. Also I dont care what any mechanic tells you, change the Plugs now, dont wait to 100,000 miles. and while your there your PCV Valve as well. Hopes this helps. :shades:
  • Thanks for the suggestions. The oil does sound wierd but if it will increase the mileage so be it. Same with the plugs. Any recommendation on brand?
  • Stick with Motorcraft, that is what it originally came with. Using the recommended oil weight will improve MPG, stick to 5W20 Synthetic Blend or Full Synthetic. Heavier weight will bog down your MPG.
  • Same with the plugs, use Motorcraft, Dont buy those quad fire, splitfire, they are garbage,(My Opinion Only). If you want the best MPG's out of your ride, always try to use OEM stuff. Have a good One :shades:
  • wctobywctoby Posts: 1
    Howdy, seems like my escape is in second all the time when first pull out.
    slow to start with then seems ok. its like to shift into high gear going up hill slow.
    have to give alot of gas to get it to down shift.Now it will go in to first if i shift it myself but still slow take off at first then it will pick up speed, it has 113,000 mile. 2.3 cyl auto.
    maybe needs tranny filter? or overhaul?
    any help or ideas?
    thanks
    Wctoby
  • We have a 2001 Ford Escape. It has a very rough idle, especially when the engine is cold. The vehicle acts like it's going to stall when it's idling at a stoplight. We've replaced all the spark plugs, all the intake gaskets, the PVC valve, the IAC, the fuel pump, the fuel filter, the air filter, and had the fuel system cleaned. So far, we've spent over $1000 on this problem, and it's still not fixed. It isn't showing any codes right now, but it has shown codes in the past for an engine misfire, as well as a code for a faulty PVC valve. After replacing the plugs and the PVC valve, the codes are gone, but the vehicle still runs as rough as ever. If ANYONE has ANY suggestions, we'd appreciate it! I really hate this vehicle, and unfortunately, I have to drive at night with three children in the car.
    I also have problems with the air bag sensor coming on, and the back hatch not opening (it stays locked once it's locked).
  • Three things come to mind...

    1. Bad coil/s (although I would imagine this would through a misfire code)

    2. Did you ever overheat the engine? if so, you may have a blown head gasket.

    3. Bad PCM or it needs to be reprogrammed.
  • My issue was finally solved when my dealer did the following (on the invoice): "overlay LG/W wire at PCM PIN 26 CKT 1024 connector C175". The error code they kept getting was P0351 Misfire on No 1 Cyl. It took 13 visits to get this fixed (but they fixed it for free - finally). My car would shutter like it was going to die at a stop light and then the check engine light would come on. This usually happened when it was a very hot day and the air conditioning was running.

    Also I have the same issue with the airbag light. For my car, if something (kid's toy, water bottle, etc) is pushed under the driver seat the light comes on - it must be a short or something. Hope this helps - good luck!
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