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Ford Escape Mazda Tribute Maintenance and Repair

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  • jim701jim701 Posts: 5
    My 2005 Escape 3.0L XLT without any previous problems recently started up fine after two weeks without use, then just quit and refused to start as battery was totally dead. After jump, start up was rough, engine check icon appeared on dash and when put in drive had little power. My local Ford dealer recommended tilt-lift to shop. Diagnostics showed multiple malfunctions related to plugs and coils and when the suspect coils were changed, the problem extended further into the PCM area and I was advised that the PCM had failed and would have to be renewed. I was then told that the PCM could not be gauranteed unless all 6 plugs and coils were renewed. Thus with gaskets, minor shop stuff and labour, my only option to get back on the road was a bill of $2600. My odometer has just passed 100k kms.and the vehicle is 4+ years old so the Ford dealer says that the 3 yr/60k kms warranty is ineffective. The mechanic did share the TSB which relates to this problem almost to a "T". Is this a widespread problem? Is there a case to have Ford pay/share the costs of these fixes?
  • Once it dries out it is fine. By the way don't try 4 Wheeling in the Surf, I was driving in town and a hard pouring rain turned into a flash flood. The water went over the tail pipe and I had to have 2 Catalytic converters replaced as well as the Fuel Oxygen Sensor, the Air Intake Valve, and the EGR Valve. Over 2 Grand in Damage, but since it was a flood Geico covered all but the deductable.

    It has been running fine until this morning. It rained last night and it sputtered and had no power, and I had to put it in park and hold gas and brakes at the lights, floor it to get to 45 MPH with the emergency lights on.

    I made it to work, the sun came out, it dried out, and ran fine.
  • I own a 2004 Ford Escape with the V-6 engine that will not start at times when the engine temperature is between 40 to 45 degrees fahrenheit. The condition started after the car was three years old. It occurs if the ambient temperature is in the 40 to 45 degree range and the engine has cooled to that temperature. It also occurs if the air temperature is lower then 40 degrees and the engine block is warm and allowed to cool down to 40 to 45 degrees. In both cases the engine will crank and crank and crank but will not start unless I push the accelerator to the floor and hold it there while continuing to crank the engine. If I hold the pedal to the floor while cranking, it usually cranks over two or three more times and then starts. The car has been to the dealer for the problem and they found no codes and where not able to duplicate the problem. Of course that night I picked up the car at the dealer and it does its no start routine in the parking lot after the service department had left for the day. It has done this 12 to 15 times in the last couple years but on only one occasion did it crank more then two or three turns after holding the fuel pedal to the floor. That time the engine turned over at least 15 times after pushing the fuel pedal to the floor before it started. Other then the occasionally no start condition discussed above, the car starts and runs great. The car has 57,000 miles on it. Any ideas would be appreciated.
  • Bought my 01 Ford Escape 4x4 XLT Sport new in Nov., 2002. I have about 152,000 miles on it; mostly highway miles. Michigan-driven for five years and Florida for two years. Ford dealer-maintained, except for Amsoil program from 2007-2009. Converted back to Motocraft all-synthetic 5W20 oil in September. Tire wear exceptional (third set in September). Original tires, and second replacement (SUV) set got noisy after 50K miles. Always rotated tires at 7,500 miles. Front end alignment has been within spec since new. Noted leaking around oil pan at latest dealer service (September). Replaced oil pan gasket. Had noisy front suspension, even though struts, shocks, and brakes were new in September. Found upper engine mount failed, along with worn right and left inner-outer tie rods and lower control arm bushings. Only abnormality at present is dampness underneath power takeoff housing. 3L V6 runs very well; no oil consumption. Milege is close to new; 18-23 in warm weather.

    I have the highest-milege Escape 4x4 that my Lincoln (Florida) and Ford (Michigan) dealers have seen. Been with Ford since 1992, and quite satisfied with their service.

    Thanks
  • Hello there SIr

    I have gotten a email notice you are having troubles with stalling and hard to start
    there are a few conditions that can lead to that however your Ford escape is new can rule out that theres no engine wear,
    have you checked the Idle air control valve?
    also check fuel pressure regulator,
    theres another condition which the car stalls if the ambient temperature is extreamly hot but thats not your case. its cold, this would be a bad idle control valve,
    I have seen a lot of this going on even my own car does the samething,
    the problem I believe is that the Ethanol in the gas is causing your problems
    switch to a non-ethanol gasoline should salve your problem!

    to get regular gas is some what hard, but however if you have a boat marina near by you should be able to buy the gas there (call to make sure it has no ethanol it it) but you cant put it in your car needs be in gas cans. for boat use only, but it regular gas that was for car in the days of old.

    Email asus2908 at yahoo.com and let me know how its going? :)
  • Hello there

    are you using E10 gas which is ethanol, this can cause stalling in cars if its at a high level
    try using non-ethanol fuels only place to find it is at a boat marinia.

    let me know if this fixes the problem. :)
  • November 5:
    2002 Ford Escape XLT Sport 4x4 V6 (152K miles):
    Inspecting the engine/transaxle/suspension area, I noted dampness underneath the power take-off housing (transfer case). Took it in to my local Ford (Lincoln-Mercury) servicing dealer, and determined that the unit had failed internally, and was venting lubricant. Ordered new unit ($1,350), and will have it replaced November 11. This is in addition to the $1,960 invested in engine mount, suspension, steering, and oil pan gasket replacement October 14. The vehicle has performed very well since new, but recent events (150K miles) have dramatically increased maintenance costs. Will continue to operate this vehicle into the distant future to recoup these costs. Fortunately, we replaced the shocks, struts, brakes, and tires in September.
  • All,

    I am having multiple misfires with my 2004 ford escape. Cylinders 1,2,4, and 6 are misfiring. It has always had problems when there has been a recant rain with high humidity. It seems like there is moisture getting in the fuel system. Now it does it all the time. I replaced the plugs about 8 months ago. The engine misfires only when holding a constant speed. It doesn't seem to misfire when accelerating or decelerating but can be felt when at idle. Any help would be appreciated.
  • I was told to post and search in this section...so here it goes!

    Hi everyone,

    My husband and I are military and will be based in Minot, ND. We have been doing alot of research and test driving small-midsize SUVs. So far, our first choice is an Escape XLT with 4WD. However, I want to know if anyone has had problems with the reliability of their Escapes? I had a terrible experience with my previous Ford, a 2003 Ford Focus ZTS. I just had to have a rebuilt transmission put in it 6 months ago with 91,000 miles on the car. I've also had problems with my alternator/battery, due to inexperienced Ford mechanics. However, I am willing to put this negativity aside if I can get some positive feedback about the Escape. This will be our first SUV and we think this vehicle suits our needs the best (i.e. driving in snow, towing, hauling/moving things, etc.). Also, I just read in a previous post about the engines in Escapes stalling? That is a major concern to me and if I am getting myself into a trap, please let me know now versus after I purchase an Escape. Many Thanks!!!!
  • Just started having this problem, did you ever find out what caused this to happen or how to fix this problem?
  • Have you asked this question of the local mechanics where you will be living? try a goodyear service store, or Mr. Goodwrench, and local transmission repair places, ask them how often they service the Escape 4wd. what they have to say about local vehicles would be helpful, I would think.
  • Ok Here goes. I have a 2002 Ford Escape. but it is 2WD. I have 101,900 miles on this vehicle, which I bought new! At 32,000 miles my A/C Compressor went out. Had it replaced under warranty. At 65,000 miles. I had 2 Coil Packs go bad..... that's it!! (Knock On Wood). The rest is up to you!. I change my Oil every 3,000 miles, every 40,000 miles I change my transmission fluid. Rotate tires every other oil change. flushed radiator every 40,000 miles. Yes I am very Anal when it comes to PREVENTIVE Maintenance on my vehicles. Now don't get me wrong, I have had to do general maintenance on stuff that wears out(brakes, battery, wipers, tires, shocks) but its really how you take care of your vehicle. You cant just get in it and forget about it! I guarantee you, if you follow your owners manual on Maintenance schedule, it will last you for a long time. keep in mind on 4WD's you have to change the differential oil more if you off road it alot! I hope this helps. And thank you for a future buy from the ONLY Auto Manfuacturer in the world that didn't take any Government Bail out money. :shades:
  • Hi- Bought a 2003 Escape new in October 02. Have been very pleased except for 2 issues. At about 73,000 I had 3 cylinders which had the coils go bad. 2 weeks apart. Each plug has a coil, with a boot over them. The plugs are to be changed every 100,000 miles, but the boots failed, so the coils blew. $1200 later I replaced all the boots, the 3 bad coils and new plugs all the way around. Ford denied any responsibility- I requested they pay half and documented everything- but understand they changed the composition of the boot - so??? Any rate the other thing , both my wife and I find bad about the Escape, is the shortness and hardness of the front seats. They may have changed the firmness and length by now, but if not the legs really tire on a long trip. Other than that I think it is the best small SUV on the market. Oh and do not get a 4cyl. Get the 6. Hopes this helps.......
  • Didn't even think of that! I'll call an AAMCO repair center and Goodyear or Firestone store tomorrow! Thanks!!! :)
  • Thank you for letting me know about the coils. I will also mention this to the dealership. I am just nervous about it because this is the first car my husband and I have bought. I think that I just had a bad experience with my Focus. Don't get me wrong, I have enjoyed driving it but having to deal with it breaking down alot is a mess. Hopefully, this time we will have a better experience! *Crosses fingers*!!! :)
  • Thanks so much for your positive feedback! I will definitely stick to the manual and take good care of my Escape, just like I did with my Focus. I guess I just need to stick to my first choice then and get an Escape!!! :)
  • I have a 2006 Ford Escape that will not crank in the mornings when the temperature outside is below 45 degrees. It doesn't make a sound when you turn the ignition switch. There are no error codes comming up with this problem. The car operates perfect the rest of the time. The car never stalls out or shows any hint of a problem the rest of the time. I purchased a warranty when I bought the car so the dealership want even look at it unless they have it in their posession while it is acting up. The problem with leaving it with them is that the temperature goes up by the time they get to work and by then its cranking with no problem. I took the car to Interstate Battery and my battery and alternator are fine. I'm wondering if the problem is related to some sort of a computer or sensor problem that is not allowing the car to start at this temperature. It's like the built in security system when you lock your car door with the window down and then reach your hand in the window and unlock the door without using the key from the outside and then stick the key in the ignition and try to crank it and the car doesn't make a noise and doesn't crank. That's just like it does with my no crank problem. This is becomming an annoying problem because I have to leave for work early in the morning and having to catch a ride with someone else to drive to work and then my roomate is able to get in the car and crank it up by the time I get to work. Have you found out what yours and my problem is? Can anyone on the forum make any suggestion to what my problem is.
  • I have a 2006 Ford Escape that will not crank in the mornings when the temperature outside is below 45 degrees. It doesn't make a sound when you turn the ignition switch. There are no error codes coming up with this problem. The car operates perfect the rest of the time. The other confusion is that the temperature doesn't effect the car cranking the rest of the day, no matter how cold it gets outside. The car never stalls out or shows any hint of a problem the rest of the time. I purchased a warranty when I bought the car so the dealership want even look at it unless they have it in their possession while it is acting up. The problem with leaving it with them is that the temperature goes up by the time they get to the dealership and by then its cranking with no problem. I took the car to Interstate Battery and my battery and alternator are fine. I'm wondering if the problem is related to some sort of a computer or sensor problem that is not allowing the car to start at this temperature. It's like the built in security system when you lock your car door with the window down and then reach your hand in the window and unlock the door without using the key from the outside and then stick the key in the ignition and try to crank it and the car doesn't make a noise and doesn't crank. That's just like it does with my no crank problem. This is becoming an annoying problem because I have to leave for work early in the morning and having to catch a ride with someone else to drive to work and then my roommate is able to get in the car and crank it up by the time I get to work. Have you found out what yours and my problem is? Can anyone on the forum make any suggestion to what my problem is.
  • we started out yesterday morning no problems.got back in vehicle to come home trans seemed like it had a stall speed in it. once on open road it would accelerate shift into 2nd and rpms would go to 3&4 thousand then the battery light would come on.it has 100300miles on it regulary serviced never any trouble new battery 6mo ago.thanks for any help you might offer
  • carss1carss1 Posts: 1
    Have you determined what the problem is yet? I have a 2005 Escape and have been having a very similar problem for the past three weeks or so, except mine is only misfiring on the 4th or 5th cylinder (not sure which one). It's also definitely caused by moisture because it's only happening when it rains or snows. I was thinking that it was the ignition coil as opposed to the fuel because I had this same problem almost exactly a year ago and they replaced the ignition coil and it seemed to fix the problem until now. My mechanic assured me that the ignition coil just went bad and moisture had nothing to do with it, but I KNOW that's not the case. It's running fine all week so far because we have had no rain or snow. I am taking it to the garage on Thursday....
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