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Ford Escape Mazda Tribute Maintenance and Repair



  • mafsefmafsef Posts: 4
    Two earlier messages defined start problem and no-fix from dealer. Latest hiccup occurred in my garage - steering wheel again locked up in off-center position and unable to insert key, with much sweating and swearing eventually managed to turn wheel enough to get key in but no engine start (door locks actuated but nothing else), more muscle effort finally moved wheel enough to get engine start - it took considerable effort to move wheel!!!! Garage temp. was about 87F.
    Trial and error after previous fiascos showed that when parking and switching off leaving the steering wheel centered allowed a perfect start next time; if wheel was only 10 degrees off center wheel locked up and key could not be inserted. It's obviously useless going back to dealer as they haven't a clue, but what the hell are Ford engineers doing? - There is surely enough evidence here to generate an investigation as there is most definitely a design fault somewhere; I guess it's the old story - after sales problems are of minor concern (money has been collected, bottom line improves) unless there are fatal accidents or safety related problems that may eventually get the governments attention.
    It's a pity that I have to make a comparison but my Mercedes has no problems, is so well engineered and put together and the dealer appears to be on top of any technical questions that again US manufacturers are left in the dust.
  • Did you ever resolve your problem? I have the same issue and it's very frustrating! :sick:
  • i'm working on a 2001 escape with the v-6. when you hit the gas, it sounds like it's sucking a whole bunch of air then engine revs up. after that, the engine idles down very slowly. i've found a small rubber elbow that comes out the vacuum ports, and it's as if it's collapsed from having too much suction. i followed the tube that's attached it to a small box like thing under the injector rail. is that the pcv?? or some kind of max air sensor? the car won't really hold a steady speed because of this. any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
  • davichodavicho Posts: 190
    Yes it is the PCV.
  • ok, i replaced the pcv. when i went to start it to see if that fixed it, it would barely run, and sounded like it wasn't getting any oil. i checked to make sure i didn't miss anything, and restarted it. same thing. while i had it running, i was able to check to see if the pcv fixed my original problem. it didn't. i've been told that it might be the throttle position sensor. do i need to reset the pcm to solve this problem? i did not disconnect the battery when i was working on it. i hate throwing parts at it, because the tp sensor is almost 30 bucks. any help would be great.
  • davichodavicho Posts: 190
    Stupid suggestion, but....

    Did you replace the intake plenum gaskets? Assuming you removed the intake plenum to get to the fuel rail to get to the PCV. If you did, make sure they are seated correctly and that you did not gouch them when installing the plenum back on. If you did not replace them, replace them. You cannot re-use the same old gaskets once you have broken the seal by removing the intake plenum. Also word of advice, if you have not replaced the spark plugs, now would be a good time to do so otherwise you will have to remove the intake plenum once again to replace them later and have to replace gaskets as well again.
  • abruzzzabruzzz Posts: 2
    Hello, I bought my 2009 Tribute new in April 2009. I've been at the dealer over 20 times. Mostly for the same issues.
    -Hoot noise which was kinda fixed but still hear it.
    -Leaking back window
    -Seatbelt fell apart
    -Windows which make strange noises when closing
    -Air conditionner blowing out white crap all over me and dash...(they cleaned it a few times)
    - *******And most importantly the strange noise coming from under me or the engine when I go foward. Its almost like a rumbling noise...sometimes I hear metal in metal and it also happens when I'm going normal slow speed (50km) and with low rpm's. (going over a small hill) Its sounds like a RRRRrrrrrrrrrahhhh and its annoying! I noticed it did it more often when I had the air on. They changed the catalitic comverter and did some adjustments to the catalitic and front pipe and donut but it seems to be doing it even more. The service agent told me if they could hear it and not normal, they could fix it. I had 3 mecanics hear the noise. They all told me it wasnt normal. Now they told me all Tribute's make that bizar noise and there's nothing to be done.

    I'm bringing it one last time to maybe check the manifold and replace everything to stock parts and hopefully the noise will stop or be less noticable. I already spoke to a lawyer and someone at the automotive arbitration plan. I will proceed if not resolved.

    Anybody have this problem? ggrrrrrrrrRRRRarRRR noise!

    I also noticed when I start moving that there's like a loss of power and not constant? Is that a transmission issue? I think it does it more when i have the air on aswell. Like a small jolt....i give gaz and it starts, i lose power, then it goes but annoying since my whole body swings cause there's not a constant flow....does that make sense?
  • Hi

    Having checked fuse 3 for the rear wash wipe system - the rear washer/wipe
    system is not discharging any cleaning solution - the window wash system reservoir in the engine compartment is full and the front window washer dispenser is working. On engaging
    the steering wheel stick control that manages this operation for the rear window I can hear
    what sounds like the motor going. Does anyone have an idea as to the problem here and why it won't dispense cleaning solution ?

    Any help appreciated ...

  • davichodavicho Posts: 190
    Clogged nozzle?
  • Yup - after putting further cleaning solution into the dispenser - the nozzle or whatever
    was in the tube - finally cleared itself ... thanks again .. !!
  • My overdrive light is flashing and I get trouble code p1744. Does anyone know how to fix this. I had the trans rebuilt 10,000 mile ago. this code came up 5000 miles after the rebuild and I took it to the shop and they couldn't find anything wrong so they told me that i should replace the alternator because it was only at 13.9 volts which was low and could cause the code to read. This didnt make sense to me so i checked the voltage and saw that they checked it with the air on and with the air off i was just over 14 volts. The light was off for 5000 miles but is back on again. If anyone knows how to fix this please let me know so that i can tell the transmission people how to do their job. Thanks
  • hwmspechwmspec Posts: 10
    edited September 2010
    Did some searching on tthe web and found this.

    Tell them it is not the alternator.

    DTC P1744 is "TCC - Excessive Slip Detected During Full TCC Engagement". Which means that the Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) is disengaged or the EPC pressure is at the minimum.

    The most likely cause is a sticking or bad TCC solenoid inside the transmission. You can check the connector at the transmission to make sure it is clean and tight and that it is not damaged in any way. That "miss" you felt was the TCC disengaging.

    If the TCC and wiring is okay, then pressure testing of the transmission will need to be done.

    I don't think it would be as much as he guesses. A new torque converter from Ford is about $265.00 and about 8 hours labor. Throw in a $40.00 TCC solenoid and I don't think it'll be more than $1,000.00.
  • I just started having this problem. I showed the Ford dealership your description of the problem , they do not know what your mechanic was referring to. Is it possible to get a part number or description of the part?

  • My dealer reprogrammed the Escape's computer (they didn't give me any further detail). The idle speed has not any problem since then, but hot weather is now passed, so I guess I won't know for sure if it is fixed until it manages to go an entire summer without stranding me. There were a few hot days, so I am hopeful it won't happen again.
  • This is my Escape and the fix was a loose ground connection under the rear passenger seat. The problem was found by a voc-tech student working on the weekend at the dealership. Sorry I never posted how the problem was solved.
  • This vehicle has sucked the life out of me! I bought this about 2 years ago for my daughter and problems started the very next day. That's what you get for "AS IS" junk! The first problem took months to figure out, it was the intake gaskets. It ran great for a couple months. The next problem took replacing nearly all the sensors, finally straightened out after replaced the MAF sensor. Once again all is well for several months. Now it has a high rpm problem. Sometimes when you stop and put it in park it will rev up to 4000 rpm's. It used to only be 2000 rpm and just ignored it. but now it sounds like it may blow up if you don't turn it off. today my daughter said it is even idling very high at the stop lights, like 2000 rpm. I'm going to put the old idle control back on tomorrow and see what happens. if that don't work I'll try the position sensor. any ideas on what could be causing this?
  • My 05 is doing this too. Your description sounds as if you were talking about mine exactly. What did you ever figure out was the cause of the noise?
  • I broke the bolt on the manifold last night from over torquing. Thankfully I was able to fish the broken end out of the lower manifold. How did you get a replacement bolt in?
  • I'm not very car savvy so any help would be appreciated. I have recently started having problems with the engine. I have V6 3.0L XLT. I recently have had very poor gas mileage (even for in the winter) getting only 212 miles per tank on average as oppose to 260-280. I also have been smelling burning oil outside the vehicle (or inside when the heat is on) and sometimes there is smoke coming from up near the radiator (but it doesn't look like its from the radiator itself). It has about 145,000 miles on it. PCV valve and hoses have all been replaced. There are no oil puddles or anything under the car even after letting sit and run for 5-10 minutes. Any ideas?
  • 1wizard1wizard Posts: 2
    edited January 2011
    Replace the Crankshaft Position Sensor(CKP), and check the wire attached to it. The sensor signals the the PCM when the crankshaft is 60-degress before top dead center(TDC) for cylinders 1 and 5. The PCM then computes actual TDC or any number of degrees before or after TDC and uses this info to control ignition spark advance. The CKP sensor also provides the engine speed signal to the PCM and is part of the misfire monitor circuit.
    Also, poor cylinder combustion that causes engine misfire increases HC(Hydro-Carbons) in emissions in the exhaust. This can overload the catalytic converters and accelerate their deterioration.
    If the problem is not leaky caskets, wires, plugs, coil pack, fuel injectors, or fuel filter this usually is the problem for misfires. I would relace this first before any other options. If the problem persists, check to see if your catalytic converter is clogged.The sensor is small and cost about $34. And if the converter is damaged, check to see if it's still under warranty. I believe most carry an 8 year 80,000 mile warranty. Hope this helps.
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