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Ford Escape Mazda Tribute Maintenance and Repair



  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    Exactly! How wierd! :confuse:
  • ransiransi Posts: 1
    I have had the same problem with my Mazda 2003 :blush: . I replaced it with a new alternator it was fine for few months after that the same problem has reappeared. They say the Ford Focus alternator works with the Mazda Tribute but does not last long. The rectifying circuit get very rotten /Burned after few months. Do not know whether we could connect a separate rectifier outside the alternator.
  • thattorontoguythattorontoguy Posts: 1
    edited October 2011
    I've got a 2004 Escape XLS with about 140 km on it. Other than the odd problems starting it when we got it its been fine that sorted themselves out, its been a good ride. Within the last week while driving it has been making an intermittent grinding or whooping noise that sounds like it is coming from the engine compartment. All the fluids are good, belt is in good condition, the wheel bearings got checked out 3 months ago. Breaks are still good but nearing the end of their life. The noise seems to happen mostly when accelerating, but it has nothing to do with how warm the engine is or how cold it is. It also sounds like its coming from the engine compartment or just below it. Anyone have advice on where to begin looking?.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    Brakes is spelled Brakes. I would suspect more the transmission, or CV joint.
  • I have the same problem with filling with gas as mentioned in other posts. I was unable to find a solution. I can not fill my tank on my 05 Tribute unless I let gas trickle into the tank. I have had this problem before, and a mechanic cleaned out a line that allowed air to escape from the tank. I can't find this line, and don't want to pay him to do it again. Any advice will be appreciated.
  • trg3trg3 Posts: 1
    I am have a problem with my 2005 Ford escape as far as the idle goes.. I can be driving 45 or more mph and the idle will go from 2000 to 1000 as if it was trying to cut off on me, as i am driving.. I also having problems with when i stop at lights and it completely stalling out, with me having to hurry and restart it. its been in the shop this would be the 4th time and ive only had the vehicle for 9 months. spending so far about 600.00 only because i have a limited warrente, i had a diagnostic that was following a faulty fuel module followed by a fuel pump.. still this hasn't fixed my stalling issue.. and I also noticed that the air bag sensor keeps coming on.. I have 4 kids and this is really scary to not know what is going on with my car. especially when its getting cold outside.
  • I have an 03 ES/V6 with 65K and a heck of a lot of noise. I thought it was transmission or 2WD box but turned out to be brand of tire and cupping. The inferior OEM Contis and alot of other tires are just noisy.

    On the reccomendation of my local Mazda service manager I bought Uniroyal Cross Country tires and the ride and noise level are amrkedly improved. Wow.
  • Stalling in todays common vehicles are do to allot of sensors and other technical factors. In my exp. Stalling can be due to a faulty EGR valve, A much needed tune up and not changing the oil on a timely basis not a mileage basis, I change mine sometimes every 1,500 miles, because while the engine is indeed running, and the wheels are not, you have no idea how many non running miles are on the engine due to stop signs, red lights and traffic.
  • tech50tech50 Posts: 4
    edited November 2011
    You need to replace all coils when you have the engine disassembled, for cost sake or it will be another cost to uncover the intake manifold again, I recommend that everyone with coil issues replace theirs every 100,000 miles all 6 or 4 or be stranded. On a six cylinder people it is easy, take the plenum cover off with a 5/16 socket and disconnect the neg side of battery, then unscrew the coil and replace, reconnect the neg wire and your done, average cost of on coil is 75.00 for one not installed.
  • I have a 2003 Ford Escape 2.0 liter 5 speed with front drive only. It has an erratic idle situation that I cannot figure out. Car had a blown head gasket when purchased with 122k on it. Didn't pay a lot of money for the car so I wasn't concerned about the head gasket. Replaced the head asket, intake manifold gaskets, throttle body gasket, tension adjustment pulley, water pump, water pump pulley, timing belt etc and all was good for about 2 months, even took a 2k trip with no problems.

    Shortly after that the car lost power, ran like crap and gas mileage dropped from about 26 to about 20-21 mpg. Got a p1074 code (lean condition bank 1).
    Read some stuff on line about others that had similar problems and started the journey I am on.

    Things I Have done since the head gasket change:

    1. Idle air control valve
    2. removed , cleaned, checked and reinstalled the fuel injectors with new O rings and caps.
    3. replaced the o rings in the fuel rail
    4. replaced the egr valve and the egr solenoid
    5. Throttle position sensor
    6. Vacuum eq control module
    7. Mass air flow sensor
    Checked the following for leaks, cracks etc.
    air box & hoses
    intake manifold (external for)
    PCV Vale and hoses
    EGR hoses
    All vacuum lines etc.

    Here is what happens.
    1. Cold start car is a bit difficult to start but once starts all is good.

    RPMs holds at about 1200 until the temperature gauge moves up about 1/4 of the way and then it starts to decrease to about 850 rpm.

    Idle starts to become a bit rough and the rpms drop to about 600.
    The idle then gets taken up to about 1200 rpm and drops back to the 5-600 range within 10 seconds.

    Idle is then taken up to about 1500 rpms for a second or two and starts to come back down
    Idle then drops below 500.
    The engine almost stalls (battery light comes on) but rallys and the rpms go up to about 2000 rpm for a couple of seconds and then start to drop down and almost stall again.
    Rallys again and same scenario for about two or three more times and then stalls.
    Engine restarts easily but will not idle normally after that.
    Idle keeps bouncing up and down and stalling.

    Problem is I love this little car. Great utility, pretty fun to drive, enough power and great gas mileage compared to my Ford Club Wagon with the 4.6 V-8.
    Really want to keep it on the road but it is making me nuts and i am running out of ideas.
    Any help would be greatly appreciated
  • I purchased this car just over a month ago and have begun having problems similar to those described here. The first few times, it would stall shortly after being started (in varying temperatures), but never did this recur after restart. Today, I started the Escape and it was idling very rough (RPM shooting up past 2000 and then nearly stalling). Soon something started to smell hot, and the car stalled in the middle of the road. I was able to coast into a parking lot, but I'm at a complete loss. There were no warning lights of any kind. Anyone care to shed some light?
  • I have a 2001 Tribute and had a similar problem. At first I suspected the rack and pinion. It turned out to be tierod ends were dry. The are sealed with no grease fitting so I took a needle that fits a grease gun and punctured the rubber and voila`no grinding/binding noise. You can jack it up and have someone turn the steering while you hold the tierod ends and you will feel it.

    Hope this helps
  • Did you find out what the problem was? I'm guessing the same as what we have had with our 02 Escape. It had been running rough, and then one night while my son was driving it he said it made a loud noise and started to smell really bad. When he got home we found the EGR valve had a hole in it. After having Ford dealership look at it we were told needed all 3 cat converters, plus EGR, etc., replaced, at a cost of over $3000. We took it to Midas, bought the parts ourselves, and had the job done for around $2300. Now, a month and a half later it suddenly started running bad again. Brought it in to Midis, and they said it's misfiring on several cylinders and needs coils and valve cover gasket set replaced, another $1000. We will again buy the parts and have it repaired to save about $250, but it is draining us dry! But it's the only car my son has to drive to work. Does ANYONE know what is the original cause of all this, or is it simply eveerything wearing out on a 10 year oldcar?
  • Just spent $1700 on 100,000 mile service plus replaced PCV valve, front tie rod, brakes replaced, new spark plugs. My 2003 Escape 3.0 V6 runs much better and I haven't had any stalling issues since.
  • I had this problem with mine and I had to have new intake manifold gaskets. Fixed it with no problems and check engine light went off!
  • Thank you for your reply. Found out it was a warped head. We had replaced the head gasket and checked the deck of the head and it appeared fine. Did a compression test and cylinders 1& 4 were abo180-190 lbs each. 2&3 were 82 & 80. Re-pulled the head and lo and behold the gasket was damaged in the same exact place. Ordered a reman head from Cylinder Heads Int. for $350.00. In the process of installing it. Once that is done we should be good to go.
  • I have a 2009 Escape Limited, and I have issues with the reverse warning system. It will work occasionally, but most of the time I put it in reverse and the "off" button lights up and just stays lit until the vehicle is restarted. I've tried washing the car to see if it was just dirt on the sensors, but still have the problem. Anyone know if its possible to test the sensors individually?
  • i have a 2004 ford escape it starts sometimes but stalls out and some times it wont start unless i give it some gas and when i put it in R or D the engine starts jumping and running really bad.i have checked the fuel filter to see if trash or water was the problem and its clean the guy i bought it from said it has been sitting for 6 weeks but ran great before that.i test drove it before i bought it and it ran great but i stopped at walmart before i went home and when i gt back in and started home it stalled out and thats when all this happened.idk what else to do :cry:
  • mickey0929mickey0929 Posts: 1
    edited January 2012
    my escape won't stay running. already replaced plugs ,plug wires, ignition coil and throttle position sensor and still won't stay running. if anybody has gone through all this trouble before please give me some ideas, loosing my mind with it already. thanks
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