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Ford Escape Mazda Tribute Maintenance and Repair



  • I have an 01 Escape and every winter I start having the same problem. When the temp drops below 50 degrees or so I go out to start my vehicle in the morning and it idles very rough and will stall unless I hold the gas pedal down and keep the RPMS up to 2000 or higher. It will do this for about 2 to 5 minutes depending on how cold it is. Once the engine is warm (the temp gage goes up at least 1/4) the vehicle runs and drives perfectly fine. I replaced the plugs and coil packs last year around March. I thought that fixed the problem, but it turns out that it just got warmer out and now that the cold weather is back it is doing it again. Again this only happens when it is cold. If it is warm or hot outside I have absolutely 0 problems with it.
  • I have a 2005 ford escape, I've been having problems with my a/c. when i turn it on I get a real strong scent of anti-freeze. I was informed that the problem was due to a heater core malfunction... my question is where do i locate this heater core and how do i get it out?
  • chad42chad42 Posts: 1
    edited January 2012
    in 2009 my inlaws bought us a 2001 ford escape with 82,000 miles on it, from finish line ford in peoria IL. the very next day it started having rough idle problems to the point that it would some times die at a stop, the idle problem would only last for the first few minutes of driving. this problem was 20 times worse in the winter, so i looked into it i changed the idle air control valve, egr valve, mass airflow sensor, spark plugs, fuel filter, and nothing so we dealt with it well around 2010 it started getting worse and we could hear this faint hissing noise from inside the car around the brake pedal. the noise got worse and the idle problem got so bad that we would have to put the car in nuetral when stopped and push the gas. it got so bad that as soon as you took your foot off the gas the car would die and the noise was pretty loud also. when the noise came around the idle problem never went away even after driving for hours. so i changed the brake booster fixed the problem back to how it was when we got it. then we started getting a high pitched noise from the hood of the car around the serpintine belt that was very loud and nasty sounding, that was the ac pump clutch went out and the clutch was rubbing up against one of the bolts on the ac pump as soon as we stopped it welded it self together, car would not start the next day so i replaced ac pump and the belt. two months later me my pregnant wife and my son were coming out to the car late at night from shopping and the key would not go into the ignition, it worked on the door but not the ignition had to drill out the tumbler and put a new one in, in the parking lot, 4 months later i was driving the car and the first time i pushed on the brakes the hole car started to shake and a horrible grinding noise was coming from the brakes, that turned out to be the abs sensor ring which was a nightmare to change. during that time we have changed both blinker lights in the front and the plate lights, i have done a oil change every 3,000 miles and a fuel cleaner. during this time also all door apolstry has slowly fallen off. me and my wife HATE this car but dont have the money to buy a new one, it has been a nightmare from the begining it was put together to fast and to many corners were cut building this car. i will NEVER buy another ford again, the only good thing i can say about this car is that it is pretty easy to work on. my wife and i are waiting every day for it to explode on us. oooo yeah it also has a oil pan leak. :cry: :sick: :confuse: :(
  • I have a 2004 ford escape XLT 3.0 V6. Last summer it started idleing rough and acting funny. Slowly over time it kept getting worse giving misfire codes, stalling at lights etc. I changed, plugs, wires, both O2 sensors, fuel filter and was getting ready to replace EGR valve when I discovered the actual problem under the hood stareing at me. I should say hissing. This triggered some old school memorys and skills. With a little detective ear work I followed the sound to a 1/2" diameter vacum hose that had deteriated from extreme heat. The hose is located on top of the engine in back next to the firewall. It is about in the middle and is a 90 degree hose. the heat had caused a hole to form in turn making the hose collapse on itself. I turned the engine off and the hose popped out. I put some duck tape on it and restarted. The car ran perfect, the check engine light went out and I drove it for a week with no problems, until i properly replaced the hose. Never has been a problem since. So before spending to much more time and money check this hose out first if it is not the problem then keep looking and LISTENING. Shortly after I found a smaller hose in front with same issue and replaced that one as well(it was not causing performance issues though).

    I hope this helps someone and saves them some money too. Pass on the info to anyone else who is having same troubles.


  • I am having the same problem with my 2002 Escape. I just reported it to the National Highway and Traffic Safety Adminisration. I have paid for 2 tune ups and had additional unnecessary repairs and it is doing the same thing. I have heard that it is a computer chip. They are aware of the problem, and need more people to complain so that an investigation will be opened and moves made for a possible recall.
  • This is exactly what happened to me and exactly what the problem was. My Escape now has 304000 miles on it and I have owned it since it had 113000 miles on it. I would buy another Escape in a heartbeat!
  • keep an eye on the shifting of the 6 cyl, 6 speed. Harsh shift in 1st, gear hunting then a slam in the 3 gear. we had this problem last week (Feb 1/12).
    it was the seal and a shaft that was replaced. The dealership could not assure me this problem would NOT happen again. So much for off shore, aka cheaper parts.
  • Do you remember what fuse it was?? I'm having the same problem.
  • Had the same problem.. Look under the hood and there is a little tiny bolt that controls the gas flow when your foot isn't compressing the gas. Give it about 2 full turns and it should start right up. No parts no mechanic. Hope this helps. I could send pics if you need.
  • all it is is a little bolt the sets the idle. Look at where the little wheel is that turns when you push the gas pedal (front right of the engine) under the flywheel you should see a very small bolt that the flywheel will rest on when not compressing the gas pedal. The head of the bolt gets worn down and can make an impression on the plate over time. Usually 2 full turns will have it working fine again.
  • Hello, i went out to my Ecape the other day to find it wouldn't start. was trying to turn over but couldn't unless i gave it a lot of gas. Long story short checked a lot of things but turned out to be a little bolt under the throttle flywheel (front right of engine power steering cable connects to wheel). I disconnected the power steering cable and moved the wheel with my hand to gain access to the bolt under it. Gave the bolt about 2 full turns and the problem has been solved ever since. Hope this saves you all some money and time.
  • When I fixed the vacum hose I replaced it from a similiar hose bought from local auto parts store. The hose lasted about 6 months before wearing to the point of the issue returning. I reccomend spending the $49.00 dollars for the genuine ford part number(YL8Z-6C658-A) it will fit correctly and last longer. I just spent three days replacing alternator(nightmare!!). I have some helpful tips if anyone needs them.
  • Hi,
    Thank you for the info. I am assuming that you have a 6 cylinder engine in yours and not the 2.0 4 cylinder like mine.
  • OHH can you please send me a pic...ive been dealing with problems with my 04 escape for amonth now..grrrrrr
  • My 2004 Mazda Tribute with 160,000 miles just exploded on starting. Smoke and flame from under the hood and the plastic intake manifold totally blown apart and scattered in the parking lot. It could have killed somebody if they were in the way. Mazda dealer said that they never heard anything like this and had no clue what would have caused it. They never mentioned any "bulletin about backfires". The tribute never backfired before. Of course it's over a $1000 repair bill and they won't guarantee that there is nothing else wrong with the engine after that expolsion.
  • I would love a picture as well. Our 04 escape has this problem. I tried replacing the IAC valve and it was a bit more consistent with starting up but still very low RMPs when idle and extremely choppy when accelerating. My uncle who is a service tech at a local Ford dealership thought it was the transmission so I really hope its just this little bolt.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    Unfortunate, to be sure. I also have heard of no such phenomenon, but in older days, there were lots of carbureator fires on cars from backfires, and other things. Not really sure I'd fix one with $160,000 miles on it unless the rest of the car is in amazing shape. YMMV
  • corrado3corrado3 Posts: 1
    edited March 2012
    I have an 02 ford escape, 3.0L, 105k miles. Once the vehicle gets hot, and this doesnt even matter the idle is just more noticeable when its hot. The car at idle will jerk back and forth, and if i put it in neutral it's much less noticeable. Once i give the car gas though it drives quick and has plenty of power, no hessitation. The car has a new IAC, CAT delete but the housing is still there, all new coils, and a new ECM. Oh and furthermore, the car starts right up when cold, but when its hot sometimes it will take a few rotations of only holding the key over for 3 seconds to start. The best way to describe this "jerking" is similar to having someone at the back of the car pushing it back and forth.

    Would i call this jerking pulsating?
  • jostu001jostu001 Posts: 6
    I've got a 2002 Mazda Tribute, 128k on the clock.
    December last year I had the 2 transmission mounts replaced, since then the car has developed a rattle, I'm not sure if the replaced mounts & new rattle are connected.

    The rattle almost sounds as if its under the drivers seat, maybe a bit forward of that, I can be sat at lights and can here the rattle, then take the car out of gear and the rattle will vanish. Travelling at certain speeds I can also hear it too, at other speeds it's not there.

    Has anyone any ideas or suggestions as to what it may be, and also a cure. I'm a total novice when it comes to car & mechanics so any help or advice really would be greatly appreciated.

    Many thanks in advance

  • rob5662rob5662 Posts: 1
    I just bought a 2004 Escape XLT AWD auto and its sputtering and sluggish on the accelerator from a stand still. I took it for a test drive and it was fine. Within an hour of driving it off the lot, the check engine light came on. I`d like a pic of the bolt if possible. Thanks
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