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Ford Escape Mazda Tribute Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • azkiwiazkiwi Posts: 2
    Have an odd problem with the rear door on the 2001 escape. It sometimes locks, it sometimes doesn't.. The hotter it gets, the more prone to failure it is.
    Currently the truck door is unlocked. I want to remove the plastic trim cover to get inside and have a look see. I have removed the 4 or so screws from the bottom. But since I know v. little about removing trim etc from and escape, prudence dictates I ask for advice before I start trying to pry it off and possibly /probably break something.

    How is the trim attached to the cargo door, and what is the procedure for loosening and removing it.

    Thanks
    Ken
    AZ Desert
  • azkiwiazkiwi Posts: 2
    fingers.. clicked post in lieu of edit....
    It's the rear cargo door, not as implied a rear pass. door.

    Thanks

    Ken
  • noting on rear passenger side, and tail gate rust, Already!!!
    even after last year undercoat.
  • An Allen wrench is used to align the headlights. Its made of soft metal. Is there an easier way beside removing the front end of the escape to align. We found the low & high beams are too low.
  • thank you for such a complete reply about your escape. your post has proven to be most helpful!!! thanks again
  • angieiangiei Posts: 1
    I also have a 2005 Ford Escape and have had to be towed 3 times in the last couple of weeks because of this same issue. Once it is towed to the mechanic it would work fine. First mechanic did find a service message on the internet about it. After that I took it to the Ford Dealership and they could not get the car to malfunction. They put some kind of a black box device in it to see if it would record what is happening. Took it for a drive and got stranded 30 miles away. Had it towed to dealership and it was determined to be the torque converter...$2000 fix. I am a one car, single mom family and each stall/tow was very inconvenient. Finding a lot of 2005 Escapes are having this same issue. Just wondering if this should be a recall situation and not a service message situation.
  • hwmspechwmspec Posts: 10
    Welcome to the club. The Ford Escape and Mazada Tribute transmissions are junk. My failed at 60000 miles. Cost 2700 to repair. Traded the POS in for a Lexus, couldn't be happier.
  • miss13miss13 Posts: 1
    Did you ever find out how to fix this problem? Add I'm having the same problem.
  • I need some help in troubleshooting my 04 Tribute ES, 3.0 V6 automatic. 106k miles
    After a severely drawn down dead battery, I installed a warranty replacement from Advance Auto.
    It started right up and I drove it first on back roads 25-35 mph and it runs perfect. Anything above 35 and it boggs down like its starving for fuel. I ran it for about 6 miles struggling at 35 mph and had to turn around and come back home. It idles perfectly and drives with plenty of
    smooth acceleration up to 35mph. No Check Engine Light throughout this ordeal.
    Here is what I did so far.
    - Connected the code reader to see if there are any pending codes - PASS no codes pending or present, no Check Engine error.
    - My first thought was fuel filter/fuel pump. I installed a new fuel filter and no change still bogging.
    - I attached a professional fuel pressure gage to the fuel line at the engine and getting a steady 65 PSI. I even placed the gage on the windshield and took it for a ride and the pressure is steady 65 PSI from 0-35 MPH. I even floored it only to get that severe bogging at 35+ and fuel pressure still at steady 65 PSI.
    - Also note that it has a new exhaust + CAT front to back 6 months ago. Flow is fine.
    I was ready to go out and buy a new fuel pump assembly, but not after that test.
    My thoughts: Fuel injectors? why would it run so strong and smooth at idle and below 35 mph and also not throw a code.
    The only clue I have is when all this started with the drawn down battery and new battery installation. I have decided to try and reset the computer by removing the battery cable and let it sit overnight. I have read that you need to pump the brake 5 times while its disconnected to reset. I have also read that you should tap the battery cable 2-3 times on the post to clear the computer.
    --
    Any thoughts on this are welcome.
  • UPDATE: Turned out to be a clogged up CAT converter. I want to leave this post up for others to reference that may have similar problems.
  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 38,910
    Sounds like that new cat you got six months ago was short-lived. Thanks for the update.
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