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Ford Escape Mazda Tribute Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • The ticking noise was identified as the fuel injectors by the dealership. They told me it's normal to hear after the engine has warmed. I realize there is no correlation between the oil and the fuel injectors ...
  • I'm just researching the front rotor problem with My Tribute. I love the vehicle. but at 25,500 miles I need to replace the pads and front rotors. The pads I don't mind, but there is no reason why the front rotors should be so badly worn that then need to be replaced. The dealer said it was common with the Tributes. Cost $660.00. There's no way, I'm going to keep replacing my rotors every time I need new pads. I'm looking for a third party rotor. Any suggestions? I'll trade the car in for a Nissan if I can't find decent rotors.
  • scape2scape2 Posts: 4,119
    just recalled over 2.5 million vehicles....
  • suvshopper4suvshopper4 Posts: 1,110
    So someone answers your question, about why the brake job at low mileage is a problem (it's expensive!), and that's your best reply?
  • Having worked for mazda service for many years, I have seen and still see many brake jobs. The tribute situation is a nightmare. Although the pads seem to be wearing at a normal rate (nothing under 25k) the rotors need to be replaced with every brake job due to wear. These are not cheap rotors (around $135...each) and it's chasing some customers right out the door. Disposable usually goes hand in hand with cheap, but not in this case. Rotors on a 626 are around $80 each and usually can be cut twice. Domestic car companies are clueless when it comes to quality. Millenia rotors and pads dont even start to wear until 50k, and they provide just as much, if not more, stopping power than that of the tribute.
  • wijocowijoco Posts: 462
    I think going with a quality aftermarket set of rotors is your best bet. Ford rotors are often overpriced and of insufficient quality. Check out NAPAonline, you can get NAPA/United front rotors for $67 each. And I bet they last longer than Ford's. Plus, they should be easy enough to install yourself. Just remember to torque your lug nuts when you put the wheel back on!
  • I know this isn't a problem.. but it seems nobody checks the other Tribute message boards.. so I'm posting here.

    Can anyone point me to a place which would have detailed instructions on removing the factory stereo and installing a new one? Or, if you could just write out how to do it, that would be great too. I don't really know much about how to install car stereo's, but I heard that it is not that difficult, so I would like to put an MP3 CD player to replace the factory stereo. Any help is appreciated. Thanks.

    Also, I found this which looks alot like the same shape as my stereo, so I'm wondering if this is the same way you would remove it:

    http://www.carstereohelp.org/stereoremoval/MazdaMPV3StrR.htm
  • bessbess Posts: 972
    On my Ford Escape, it is not nearly that complicated as the post you reference..

    Go to any automotive store and buy (for around $5) the special tool needed for ford radios. Its a u-shaped piece of wire..

    Note there are 4 holes in the front of the radio(2 on the left, and 2 on the right)..

    Stick one u-shaped wire in the 2 left side holes, and the other u-shaped wire in the 2 right side holes..
    Push gently outward on the wires while pulling the radio toward you.. Remember to disconnect the wires from the back.. and your done.

    A assume the tribute has the same setup.
  • Thanks for the advice. How much did it run to replace air intake valve? IAC? Thanks again.
  • Rudy32, I was one of the ones that suggested IAC replacement to Shona99. I'm glad it worked for her, too and I haven't had to have my Tribute towed since replacing the IAC. Mine was under warranty but the cost per receipt would have been $77 including parts and labor. Good luck.
  • My IAC was replaced under warranty. I don't know how much it was the receipt said N/C. I guess you will have to contact your dealer.
    Hope it works for you too.
    Shona
  • Thanks again for the help. My dealership had no clue what was wrong. They kept telling me I was the "only one" with this problem....until I kept bringing up that they check with Mazda Corp. about any bulletins etc that refer to the IAC. Then FINALLY! THANK GOD! They listened. MY CAR RUNS! THANK YOU THANK YOU AGAIN!
    Shona
  • Thanks everyone for the input. It was never my intention to let the Dealer do my brakes unless I can convince them it's under the warranty, but I can't imagine they'll go for that. It is under warranty but I doubt that includes the brakes (but maybe the rotors) Anyway, I've been looking at raybestos pads and rotors. CarQuest caries them. $66.76 ea for the rotors and $70.82 for a pair of pads. Does anyone think that the "Drilled and Slotted" rotors are worth the money or try? I'm not sure if I should go with the cheapest rotors or a more expensive one on the idea that they may last longer.

    This is the first vehicle I've owned that's had Anti-lock brakes. First NEW vehicle too, I've always bought used. I've always done my own brake work in the past. Is the Anti-Lock feature something that will prevent the changing out of the pads and rotors. It's always been a pretty easy job in the past.

    Again, Thanks to all you have given their advise.
  • wijocowijoco Posts: 462
    The main thing to remember when working on ABS equipped systems is to never push brake fluid back into the lines. If you have to force caliper pistons back into their bore to install pads, always use a hose-pinch tool and open the bleeder screw on the caliper to force fluid out the end of line. Pushing dirty fluid back up into the brake lines can ruin your ABS valves and pumps. As far as drilled or slotted rotors, I believe that would be overkill. A semi-premium set of rotors from any of the major parts retailers will probably be sufficient. Isn't it ridiculous how much Ford charges for their rotors, considering they're not any better than the aftermarket parts?
  • Thanks wijoco!

    I appreciate the advise on hose clamp and brake fluid. I'll follow your advise. Other wise I may have just pushed the pistons open. I'll be sure to bleed them a little when I'm done, just in case.

    The Drilled and Slotted rotors I found are only $40.00 more for the pair and I think I'll give them a shot. But yes, I agree. The dealer wanted $660.00 to do the front brakes and rotors. I'll be able to do it for about $200.00.

    Thanks everyone again. I'll keep you posted on whether After Market Rotors wear better than OEM parts. I sure hope so.
  • Hello,

    I have 2003 LX with Luxury Package, Perimeter Alarm, Rear bumper step plate and Cargo Net.
    Just the other day my alarm system went off.
    No one near the car or anything at all for that matter. I check the car and "thinks" there was a door open and wouldn't allow me to arm the alarm system or anything. The overhead lights were on and the door ajar light on the dashboard was on. After a while everything went back to normal and I was able to arm the car. This has happened twice. Any Ideas?

    TIA
  • wijocowijoco Posts: 462
    Might not be an alarm problem at all. Sounds more like a door sensor problem. Next time it happens try opening each door individually and playing with the door-open switch to isolate the problem.
  • Odie:

    Thanks for the suggestions. It does confirm that it was not something unique to the vehicle.
    I may have to buy new tires with life time warranty as you have done.

    But when you had the cupping problem: Did they replace the tires at the tire dealership easily or you had to fight for the same?
  • odie6lodie6l Hershey, PaPosts: 1,078
    the olny Problem I had is the tire that was on my Escape (Wrangler RF-A) was no longer being produced so I got a credit toward any other tire, which made most of them VERY cheap or FREE. I can vouch that the warrenty on the Tires was the best thing I got for ther car. every 6000 miles I get FREE re-balanceing, Rotation, and 4-wheel alignment.

    Odie
  • I've been looking into buying 2004 model of Ford Escape and as I was doing more research I've been reading these random stall problems. Does anyone know if this problem has been fixed in 2004 model? I've read that 2003 model is still experiencing this problem... Are there any Ford Escape 2004 model owners who have experienced this random stall problem? I would appreciate it if you can post the reply here and send me an email to real_ki@yahoo.com also. Thank you in advance.

    - Ki
      real_ki@yahoo.com
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,109
    ...reply here and send me an email to...

    People will be more likely to take the time and post an answer if they know you'll be back to participate in the message board discussion! :-)

    tidester, host
  • odie6lodie6l Hershey, PaPosts: 1,078
    I forget where I saw it, but I remember seeing somewhere that the Escape will be getting an available 3.5ltr V6 in 2005 that will push 245 - 260 HP.

    Odie
    Http://www.geocities.com/odie442/albert_family.html
  • mckee4mckee4 Posts: 47
    With 42K miles on my '01 XLT V6 FWD, I have very
    little to complain about other than brake pad/
    rotor change at 29K miles and IAC valve
    replacement at 40K miles. The thing that blind-sided me the most about the brake job was
    the complete rotor replacement which added an
    additional $250.00+ dollars to the receipt. I
    know that there is a direct corollary between
    how much your foot is on the brake and brake wear.
    Brake pad wear is normal and occurs worse on
    some cars than others. As mentioned in another
    post, I intend to change out the rotors (next
    time) with high quality, turnable, rotors which
    should in the aftermarket by now. I intend to
    change the pads with ceramic ones which will
    reduce and / or eliminate brake-dust. Problem
    solved. Ironically the brake shoes have about
    50-60% (according to mechanic friend) left. I
    wonder if the rear-brake drums are disposable ?

    I saved my old-bad IAC valve, cleaned it up
    (used throttle/carb cleaner, good quality)
    and re-installed it just to see what would
    happen. Fired right-up and kept it connected
    for a day or so. No problems. But I re-installed the new one in any case. For those
    who've changed IAC's, try and keep your old
    one and maybe do the same thing. It may be a
    good spare one for emergencies if it still
    works. Apparently, at least in my area, the
    IAC's were back-ordered at most of the Ford
    dealerships, but I got mine within two days
    from a parts house. Makes me think that Ford
    may have a batch of factory defective ones
    that are being installed unbeknownst. Ford
    needs to put a little heat on the part manu-
    facturer and do some solid QC and figure what
    may be going wrong. Just by judging by the
    number of people posting, it could be larger
    problem outside the posting. Of course as
    mentioned, the IAC fix may not solve all the
    drivability issues which have been posted. I
    don't discount that some people may have
    poorly built vehicles either. We all know
    that happens.
     
    By an large this vehicle has been no more
    problematic than most of the other cars I've
    owned (Chevy, other Ford's, Honda, Toyota,
    Nissan) and less than some. My wife (I'll
    say this because she doesn't read these posts),
    bought an '03 Toyota RAV4 in March. It's got
    more rattles, buzzes, and sounds than my Escape
    does by far. She frustrated that her RAV is
    like this because it was assembled in Japan.
    Don't think it makes much difference these
    days.

    Would like to upgrade to '05 with possible
    engine size/HP increase as previously posted.
    It's good that Ford is doing this, as I've
    read that the new V6 option in the Saturn VUE
    is Honda-made (smooth) ~w/240 HP.
  • Mckee4,
     Called the dealer and he suggested the same thing - remove IAC and clean. Can you please describe for me what the IAC looks like and where it is located?
      The other night I removed a black plastic piece that goes into the air hose near the air filter. This part is hollow with a few thread like pieces-- as you can tell I am not mechanically gifted. Thanks for your time and assistance. I sprayed this part and towards the manifold and airfilter with carb and intake cleaner. Car started with no problems. Now, I am back to the same issue. Car takes forever to start

    rudy32
  • this part has been replaced regularly since the mid 90's on all our ford/mazda trucks. there appears to be NO effort at all to improve or redesign it. If there has been an internal change, it has not been an improvement. the same goes for the DPFE sensor(egr flow) if everyone in here hasnt replaced it yet on their tribscape, you will. This part has been noticeably redesigned over the years with no improvement. By the way, if anyone is interested in a 2002 complete intake assembly(including injector rail and the notorious IAC valve), leave your email and I will contact you. It came off an 02 trib that had a bad crankshaft @ 10k miles. Engine was replaced as a whole.
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 41,611
    Please take it to eBay. No buying and selling on Town Hall!

    Steve, Host

    Moderator
    Minivan fan. Feel free to message or email me - stever@edmunds.com.

  • mckee4mckee4 Posts: 47
    The IAC on the 3.0 V6 is located on the top
    middle of the engine. You can see it and
    access it very easily. It almost looks like a
    small t-stat sitting on top. It is bolted on
    w/two 10mm (I believe) screws and has an
    electrical connector that will have to be detached
    (easy). The best I can say is that it is
    connected near to the black plastic FORD cover
    but more on top as opposed to eiter side.
    Unfortunately I don't have a digital camera and
    cannot post any pictures. If someone does then
    it would be good and it'd be easy to point out.

    If you know anyone mechanically inclined or you
    run the vehicle by the dealership or a shop, I
    believe a service advisor could point it out
    (for free). However, let me say again, that I'm
    not a mechanic and this fix may not work for your
    particular drivability issues. A friend who is
    a mechanic and who does some of my car
    maintenance work diagnosed the problem within
    minutes and admitted the IAC is problematic in a lot of other Ford vehicles, trucks, cars, etc.
    He's replaced his IAC on his Ford F-150 with only
    20K miles. Actually. I am surprised that Ford
    hasn't latched onto this as a TSB at least. As
    rotarykid has said the EGR may be problematic
    as well. I did receive a certificate of
    acknowledgement from Ford corporate indicating
    that if I have problems with the EGR flow that
    it will be replaced for free using the
    certificate that Ford sent.
  • wijocowijoco Posts: 462
    Be careful with that "threadlike" part: it's your Mass Air Flow sensor. Break one of those threads, and it's all over, very expensive.
  • mckee4mckee4 Posts: 47
    I concur and agree completely with your statement
    about the MAF sensor. Really when jacking around
    with anything having to do with engine air-intake
    one needs to be real careful. Don't know what
    a MAF runs for the Escape but judging by parts
    costs for other makes/models it's not cheap.
    Foreign car MAF's have been known to cost in the
    high 100's and even 1000's of dollars.
    Sorry if I can't be more explanatory about the
    IAC location, but it literally is a 5-minute
    change-out for that sensor. I am surprised if
    a dealer cannot diagnose the problem. A good,
    reputable, independent shop should be able to.
    I've heard of the a good independent shop actually
    calling the dealership with the proper fix on
    other repair issues. Any shop is only as good as
    their owner/manager and techs. whether private
    or dealership.
    I have found a shop that is close to home, offers
    some the same amenities as the Ford dealership and
    most of their techs. have 20+ years at the same place and are ASE certified with most at Master
    level. That tells me something. For small things
    I still use a mechanic friend if he's available
    and to pick up some extra cash.
  • With all the issues I've had with Mazda, I just decided to have a look online and see what people had to say. I found this forum and found some very familiar experiences, so I decided to voice my own. I like my DX-V6 AWD 2001 Tribute, but Mazda has me so ticked with their pathetic service, and the brakes I had to get replaced a few days ago blind sided me too. $600 to get the front pads and rotors replaced at 68,000 kms (42,000 miles), and I've been doing about 95% all highway driving since 40,000 kms (25,000 miles), which surprises me a little. The pads I could understand, but rotors too. After reading a few posts here though, I realize this is just a common trait of the Tribute apparently.
    Although, the brakes are not my biggest disappointment, its actually the Mazda service I'm really ticked about. Firstly, when I went to buy my Tribute, the sales guy was treating me like a highschool kid flipping burger paddies trying to buy a $30,000 SUV. I was insulted with the way he was talking to me. It was pathetic, and I wrote Mazda about that, and kindly got a photocopied apology that I could have read it was so poorly photocopied, and a nice key chain. That's Mazda for you. The key chain made me feel so much better (a little sarcasism there I think). Their apology actually made me more mad than the Sales Rep. It didn't stop there. Last year in Dec 2002 I went in for my regular service at 36,000 kms (22,000 miles), when I was told all my tires were totally worn and down to the metal, and needed to be replaced. On top of that, I was told my rear brake drums were leaking and needed to be replaced. I basically looked at them like a deer in headlights. It didn't seem right at all to be driving a brand new Tribute, not even 2 years old, and the tires don't pass safety. That's ridiculous. I said no to both. The next day I went to a Goodyear dealership and asked them to inspect my tires and brakes. They said my front tires were only 38% worn, and the back were 63% worn, and they had been rotated. He said they were good for at least about another 15,000 kms. As for the brakes, he said no leaks at all, and if the back drums were leaking, they could cease up and they shouldn't have let me leave with them like that. He said the brakes looked like new. So finally, in June (6 months later and 18,000 kms later), I got new tires for my Tribute. Paying Goodyear $50 to look at my brakes, and tires, saved me about $800 from a clear scam from Mazda. I haven't yet, but I intend to write Mazda again, and demand they compensate me for my new tires, and for the $50 it cost to check my brakes to find out they were lying to me. Its only fair they should do that for trying to scam me out of all that money. Where I get my service now is much better, but still some things are there and I have no trust in them anymore. When I replaced my brakes a few days ago, they said it would be good to replace my wipers too. I said thank-you, but you guys did that for me in April of this year already. What? Do I need new wipers every 6 months now? It sad how some shops just try to get what they can from customers. Personally, I don't have time to research all the details about SUV's to know if they are pulling a fast one on me, that's why I'm supposed to be putting my trust in the dealership to do their job properly. I think Mazda makes good automobiles, but from what I've seen from their service, THEIR warranty has run out. It's just sad I think. I think it would be good to have some sort of regulatory body in shops on a provincial/state or federal level, with no biased view, for each service to ensure the customer isn't getting screwed. With more and more vehicles on the road, and the complexity increasing, customers are just not going to know if they are really getting scammed or not. That's my two cents.
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