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Ford Escape Mazda Tribute Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • normkolnormkol Posts: 134
    I haven't serviced the throttle body, but I have had it replaced under warranty for the same symptons you describe. Apparently there is a special coating in the throttle body, and cleaner will ruin it. Opinions vary over whether it is safe to use cleaner on it or not.

    As for the cabin filter, if you have never serviced it, are you sure you really have one? It does not come standard with the car. I added it myself, and it's a pretty simple job. Instructions should come with the replacement piece.
  • min75min75 Posts: 1
    I just had this problem happen to me as well. I have a '01 Escape with 87k. I bought the "link-assembly" from a Ford Dealer, luckily my Uncle is a mechanic so he is going to change them for me. I just couldn't take the clunking noise any more.
    Good heads up!
  • ron_69ron_69 Posts: 2
    Car stalling, poor acceleration after stop and go: As mentioned, after the PCM reflash, it should fix the problems, I actually just got it done yesterday free at dealer.

    Wierd sound when turning, or sometimes even when stopping rapidly (especially on cold days): First of all, I had 2 problems that attributed to this problem, and I am guessing that most tribute/escape owners have experienced this as well. When the noise comes when it is cold, it could be the steering fluid, it doesn't have time to warm up to work to full efficiency. OR, it could have been a crack/shrinkage/loose belt. I am not sure what the belt is exactly called, but I was told this by a trusted local non-dealer mechanic. But when I went back to the dealer to get it replaced under warrenty, I was told otherwise, however, the noise seem to have disappeared for a short while after the weather got warmer. OR, it could be a lack of steering fluid, which I refilled(after it nearly bottomed out) in the summer when the noise re-appeared and all dealers failed to find the problem. Yes, it does sound stupid,the fluid be the first thing the mechanics check.

    Banging, "clonk"ing sound when turning, driving over moderately rough roads or speedbumps: I got that checked out yesterday, and found out that the "control arm" on the passenger side was "out of place", or messed up, in another words, because a bearing or something got worn out. The 2 components of the bars are basically lying on top of one another, when they should be separated by a plastic looking component. I have the extended warranty, the dealer are ordering the parts and hopefully the extended warranty will cover it.

    Costly brakes repairs: Been there, done that. If you got another brand of brake pads/rotors that you think are good, please post. =)

    Also, have anyone changed their OEM rims as of yet? mine seem to be almost unmachineable (it has too many of those weights on it), so I am thinking of replacing them. Or if you did, did you get the OEM ones? if so, whats the price? or aftermarket, recommandations?

    Thanks all,
    Ron.
  • escapenutescapenut Posts: 117
    Other than the 'link' problem and bad gas mileage at present (not what I need) my '01 Escape XLT is running fine. I am planning on prempting a bad-battery at the 3-year mark. Batteries in this area normally last ~3-yrs. and then if not changed could leave one stranded (been there).
    The Motorcraft battery seems strong now, but summers eat batteries up here and spit them out
    wholesale. I still haven't pulled one of the plugs yet to check the gap, but it may be the culprit.
  • junuseanjunusean Posts: 2
    does anyone know how to change the fog light bulbs for 2004 tribute?? do i have to drop the whole bumper or is it just a screw thats holding on to the light?
  • drurex99drurex99 Posts: 10
    Thanks for all the input . I bought a pair of ceramic Prostop pads (Pep Boys $59) and a friend will install them for me for $100. He tells me that the rotors are fine (surprise surprise the dealership led me on). I'll have him look at the other stuff on the list for me. The list includes Fuel Injection service,throttle body and cabin filter replacement. I got a couple of filters off Ebay for $15 which is a long way from the $80 the dealership wants to do the job.
    Has anyone else been told that Raybestos makes Pro Stop? I was told at Pep Boys that they did but haven't found any written support on it.
    Thanks to everyone taking the time to reply to my thread.
  • snowmansnowman Posts: 540
    total $169 for pad replacement seems higher than shop price to me.
  • drurex99drurex99 Posts: 10
    Yeah, Snowman, you're right about that but my friend will install the cabin filter for me and check out the throttle body while he's under the hood. Any way I'd rather give the cash to someone I know.
  • after i have my IAC sensor changed for stalling problem and PCM flashing/computer upgrade done... heard some annoying shuddering noises and hesitation during acceleration/deceleration.... the first Mazda service in one dealer was not able to fix it.... then brought it to the dealer where i bought it... and have the technician test drive it with me.... and found the noise is caused by uneven tire wear ...but Firestone doesn`t want to do something about it...

    I HOPE THE DEALER/TECHNICIAN DID NOT LIE TO ME... they said he re-upgraded my PCM computer module... so far it fixes the problem....

    ANY SUGGESTION FOR THE BEST TIRE... with AA grade... with less traction noise ?
  • escapenutescapenut Posts: 117
    The PCM flash was done on by Escape about 2 mos.
    ago. So far so good, but I didn't really have the problems dscribed in previous posts. I changed the IAC about 1-yr. ago after near impossible starts for about 2 wks. Mechanic friend diagnosed it as IAC. Took about 5-min. to replace. I just changed over to new brake rotors and ceramic pads and does it ever make a difference in brake-dust elimination. They are fantastic. The aftermarket-brand I bought was cheaper that the Motorcraft pads and rotors too.

    A friend recently bought an '05 Tribute V6. Seems like Ford and Mazda have changed their brake hardware; namely larger rotors, calipers,
    and pads. Definitely looks different than my set-up. They seem heftier, and in the month he's had the vehicle, guess what ????, minimal brake dust.
    So, it seems that Ford may be listening to dealer and purchaser complaints and problems. The engine also seems more powerful and gets better mileage to boot. He says he's averaging 20-21 mpg in daily mixed-driving, some stop-go, tollway mileage.

    I am currently averaging 17 mpg in daily commute, little to no highway mileage except when I get it on the highway and wring it out. I believe I may have a problem with the spark-plug gap from previous spark-plug change, but am unsure. Unless the upgraded PCM flash made the mileage worse, but I can't see that happening. I've kept
    the injectors and intake system clean too.
  • tomatnavytomatnavy Posts: 27
    I've also had the reflash--and that may have changed my mileage somwhat--perhaps 1-2 mpg.The gap of the plugs may not matter that much as I have taken old plugs out of my ford and they were twice that of the specs. I still got the same mileage with the wrong gap.
  • tomatnavytomatnavy Posts: 27
    The firestone tires that come with the car are bad. 25000 miles is about right.I put bridgestone dueler A/T REVO on my car. These are more expensive,about $106. from the tire rack, but a much better and safer tire. They have a full nylon cap around the tire,which tends to keep it together if it fails for any reason.The REVO gets very good marks in almost all categories that they compare tires in. See the tire rack for comparisons.The firestone tires that failed a few years ago did not have a extra nylon wrap that these REVO's have.
  • Does that apply to older Escapes? What about 2003 models?

    A co-worker visited the dealer for an oil change and they told her she needed new front brakes and the rotors turned at 21k miles.

    I thought that was pretty low mileage, so I came here for a second opinion.

    The nonturnable rotors is strange engineering. Does that apply to all Escape rotors, and does 21k seem reasonable on a 2003 Escape for new front pads? I don't think she's unreasonably hard on her brakes. You can save me from jacking up her car and taking off one of the front tires to take a look myself.

    Thanks all.
  • drurex99drurex99 Posts: 10
    I put the REVOS on my truck as well. I like them a lot but then the orginals were terrible.
  • tdevanetdevane Posts: 35
    I have strange clanking noises underneath the back of the vehicle which they havent been able to figure out but this morning they determined that the noise coming from the underside of the driver area is the Stabilizer link and I need a new one. Tech says he's checking to see if this is covered under warranty which im thinking it should be..anyone know? Also isn't it Mazdas policy to provide a loaner if you car is having warranty work done for more than a day?
  • escapenutescapenut Posts: 117
    2001 Escape still getting 17 -18 mpg in city with A/C on (hot/muggy summer in Houston. Was getting
    18+ before PCM flash. I'm going to call the dealership and ask if the updated PCM flash may have caused an unexpected drop in MPG. May be worth a call to ask. Also, I was talking with
    a mechanic who indicated that spark plug gap is
    less critical on modern cars with computers than 10-20 yrs. ago., so my mileage may not be affected at all if I pull the plugs and attempt
    to re-gap (front 3-plugs are breeze, back 3-plugs are a pain).

    Concerning the posts on brakes, yes, the brakes
    may need to be changed as early as 21K. I had my first change at 24K. Yes, the 2003 models should be the 'non-turnable' variety of rotors. Go with Raybestos or ProStop aftermarket, they're cheaper
    and are turnable. Go with the matching ceramic-enhanced pads, they're worth it, and by the way cheaper that the Motorcraft pads. Also, they cause
    much-less wheel dusting, which is great between care washes.

    Front stabilizer link diagnosed as problem with my front-end noises too. Will change them with a mechanic friend. They're not that expensive but the bushing were out. Plan on changing them if you've got 40-60K miles and are hearing a rumbling sound at low speed or over bumps. Apparently, these parts are not manufactured to last just like the IAC which I changed out 1-year
    ago was Motorcarft problematic. It'd be nice if Ford could engineer 100K from some of these parts.
  • debsdebs Posts: 1
    I have had various stalling problems with my 2003 Escape V6 since before the recall.
    They have already done the computer flash TWICE and reset the idle. However, the car still stalls occassionally. Especially when switching gears, mostly into reverse. It does not normally happen while decelerating (as the recall said) and has no regular pattern. It may go for 2 weeks without stalling and then stall 3 times in one afternoon. So, the dealer never seems to see the problem. Does this sound familar to anyone? I'm a bit desperate for help, because the car legally qualifies as a lemon at this point, but I do not wish to go through the legal battles of having a lemon, I just want a car that works.
    Thanks
  • baggs32baggs32 Posts: 3,213
    Your stalling problem doesn't sound like the one the PCM/recall fixes. The recall is for stalling during engine deceleration (when you hit the gas to accelerate then let off the gas and the engine decelerates it stalls). \

    I'd try another dealer if I were you. Sounds like the one you're taking it to doesn't have a clue.

    It actually sounds like something's wrong with your transmission but, then again, I'm not a mechanic. :)
  • escapenutescapenut Posts: 117
    Sounds like it could be the IAC (Idle Air Contol Motor). The symptoms are quite a bit like what was happening to my '01 V6 Escape. A change of the part seemed to cure the problem. I cleaned the old part and kept it though for a backup, just in case. I am not a mechanic and certainly
    don't want to lead you astray on any diagnosis.

    My problem was diagnosed as the IAC (Part was ~$50.00 Motorcraft but was bought at O'Reilly's;
    cheaper than dealer). I have had the PCM flash
    done per recall, but curiously, am getting bad MPG. I don't know if it's attributable to the PCM upgrade or not.
  • phalangesphalanges Posts: 5
    This is an update to further devlopements to oil leak post #2402. After the replacement of the oil pan gasket the second time, the oil leak stopped. But, the oil would disappear. Dye was put in the crankcase and the oil level marked on the dipstick. The escape lost 2 quarts in 500miles. The day before I took it in, the engine light came on and blinked continuously. The motor ran rough and lost power. On 6/22, I notified Ford of my intent of arbitration through the Florida Lemon Law. The law states if in the first 24 months the car has been out of service for a cumulative of 30 days, the owner is entitled to a full refund, including taxes and expenses. The owner is responsible for mileage accrued. Ford contacted me and we negotiated a new Explorer via the local dealership. The new Explorer was discounted $10,000 off the sticker price and I was given $13,000 for the escape (which didn't run properly) and I paid the balance. I negotiated a 75,000 mi warranty. The only other expense I paid for the new vehicle was tax and license (no admin fee/prep fee or doc fee). I considered it a bargain because I am out of the Lemon Flavored Escape. The dealer will auction the car as is--with the malfunctioning motor. Ford was very responsive. I was discouraged by Ford to enter the state sponsored arbitration. The Explorer is nice, eats gas, is large, rides nice. But I really liked the Escape when it ran properly. I could not accept another Escape as a replacement. I hope this information is useful to others. I was lucky. The Florida Lemon Laws helped me out. Ford does take the lemon law seriously makes the process was very smooth and quick. I thought I would have to fight them the whole way. I appreciate Ford's concern and they should be commended. REMEMBER:ANY CAR COULD BE A LEMON. I have Escaped and I am Exploring.
  • jhouse1jhouse1 Posts: 7
    It's to bad I didn't get the same treatment from Mazda about all the problems I've been having. In Canada there's an arbitration program setup through the Better Business Bureau. They didn't think replacing an engine, many problems with the rear wiper breaking down, coolant reservoir needed replaced, headlights, rear hatch need to be centered properly, many leaks in windshield, and rear hatch, and now the control arms and some other part is worn down on the suspension. 2002 Tribute with 50000 km's to many problems. That's what I get for buying a Ford product! FOUND ON ROAD DEAD is right! I had better luck with my 94 Chev. Cavalier with 220000 km's on it and not one problem. Like you said you were lucky....that's for sure.

    Am I supposed to expect that the safety features will actually work if I need them! Give me a break. I can't wait to get rid of this peace of junk. Good luck with the Explorer.
  • scape2scape2 Posts: 4,119
    are there two Escape/Tribute problem rooms???
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 40,822
    It is probably redundant.

    steve_ "2005 Ford Escape: Problems & Solutions" Apr 27, 2004 11:45am

    Sometimes owners of the latest and greatest don't want to read about problems with older models though.

    (That's the one you mean, right?)

    Steve, Host

    Moderator
    Need help navigating? stever@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • scape2scape2 Posts: 4,119
    it is redundant..
  • bigmackebigmacke Posts: 1
    My 2004 Tribute has a pronounced wind noise on the passenger side of the vehicle. The dealer has worked on it for a week and is unable to subside the noise. They say is it is a characteristic of the 2004 model. The frame was corrected on the 2005 model to reduce this noise, per the dealer. Any 2004 owners hearing more noise on the right side than the left side of the front passenger areas?
  • 2001 ES, Automatic, 2WD, 90K miles, $8900. Is it a good deal? How many more miles I can drive on this truck?

    Thanks.
  • norrmanndonorrmanndo Posts: 81
    I believe my tires are Continental and they still look new after 23,000 miles.

    According to Edmunds Appraiser, $8,900 is a good price for a 2001.
  • odie6lodie6l Hershey, PaPosts: 1,078
    Maybe for a base model stripped of everything. But then you have us Rizzites out here. And also the people that add / modify some of the equipment to increase the value of the vehicle.

    Rizzite = Uses the Rizzo Method (I myself included)
    http://e46fanatics.com/faq/rizzo.html

    Odie
  • mikey2003mikey2003 Posts: 5
    Seems like I have the same type of whining noise with my 2005 Escape XLT 4x4. The noise occurs ~ 65-70mph only. The dealer and Ford engineer can't figure out the problem, so they claim the noise may be normal. Did you ever find out what the problem really is?
  • snowmansnowman Posts: 540
    Can you go into more details? Is it getting disappeared when you pass 70 mph? Is it constant or it occurs when you push the gas pedal? If Escape has auto climate control, can you confirm that AC is not engaging during whining? The noise might be always there but it may be less hearable during low speed driving.
    If I were you, I would ask my dealer to lift the car with a person in the driver seat, have them start the car to listen the transmission.
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