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Ford Escape Mazda Tribute Maintenance and Repair

194959799100133

Comments

  • mphxazmphxaz Posts: 27
    No creaks in ours. We've been throughly satisfied so far @ 10,000 miles .... :D
  • bri66bri66 Posts: 220
    Why would someone with no problems post how great their vehicles are on a message board for individuals that are having problems and seeking advice from owners with similar problems? :confuse:
  • mphxazmphxaz Posts: 27
    Only when the original poster claims ALL of a particular vehicle have the same problem .........
    :)
  • snowmansnowman Posts: 540
    Why not? This forum is not designated ONLY for complaints. Owners post + and - experiences with their vehicles.
    Frankly, since I can't verify the identity and ownership of posters, I don't believe everyhting I read in Internet, I recommend you the same thing.
  • j30j30 Posts: 30
    The structure of mine is fine, no moaning from body flex. But the drivers window just might drive me a little crazy over the years. I find myself listening to more music than talk shows to cover up the creak of the window in my ear, but between every song I get to hear that great creak. Also my back hatch is now making a noise when I hit a bump, but not every time, only once or twice per commute. I have said many times over the years that I would never buy another American car, but this was such a good deal that as long as the car holds up mechanically I can over look some minor things.

    Mazda does know about my problem. Also, when I filled out the survey after the new car purchase I mentioned the window creaking and the cheap inside door handles and last week Mazda called and did a follow up survey over the phone that lasted at least ten minutes.
  • bri66bri66 Posts: 220
    I currently have 92,000 miles on my 2001 XLT V6 Escape. Absolutely love my Escape as I do all my Fords. It has had it's problems over the 3 1\2 years while I have owned it, but it's still in my opinion a great little SUV. About two years ago I was getting a lot of creaks mostly from the front end. A year and a half later it's starting again. I replaced these little piston like parts to the front end called Links. They cost me around $20 a piece and it quieted the front end completely. Hopefully this info might help solve a lot of these noises other owners are having.
    I am fast approaching the end of my 100,000 mile powertrain warranty. Without it the past year would have cost me a couple thousand dollars for two transmission overhauls, front wheel bearings, and front axle CV joints. What wasn't covered was the motor to the rear wiper that cost me $336.
    Would I purchase a vehicle based on any posts on Edmunds? I guess that would be silly. Do I believe everything I read, absolutely not. I believe some people would, but I believe in doing my homework before I spend $20,000+. Would I go out of my way to accuse posters of lying, thats not my style. I find it silly that someone would take the time to sit and post messages that aren't true, but I guess there are people that might.
    My last purchase was a 2004 Freestar that has been maintenance free, knock on wood. Because of that little rear window motor on the Escape I purchased the Extra care bumper to bumper 100,000 warranty for it. Now everything is covered with a $50 deductible as will all my future Fords I purchase. Spending thousands on new vehicles, these extra warranties are pennies a day for piece of mind. :D
  • snowmansnowman Posts: 540
    "Also my back hatch is now making a noise when I hit a bump, but not every time..."

    You need to apply two layers of electric tape to latch. After that, you are not going to hear that noise.
    For your windows, search in Honda forums. Honda mechanics use slicone spray to quite down/eliminate the windows sound on Honda models. You might want to do the same thing.
  • chuck1chchuck1ch Posts: 15
    Wife drives same vehicle around town will be 20-21 and highway 24-25. Only have had it for 3 months. We had a 01 Tribute and it was 18-19 town and 22-23 hwy, so econmy as improved.
  • j30j30 Posts: 30
    Snowman, please tell me exactly where to spray the silicone. I don't need to take apart my door do I?
    Also where on the hatch do I put the double layer of tape, I just looked and there is a post on the floor do I wrap the post with the tape?

    Please help me....
  • snowmansnowman Posts: 540
    When you lift the rear window (? is it how it is called), right in the middle, you will see U shape metal piece. Apply 1-2 layers of electrical tape onto it. You won't hear any sound after that. :)
    For the windows, I don't think that you need to uninstall anything. Slicone spray goes into channels where glass is moving up and down (I hope my description is clear..). I read this fix when I owned Accord. The Honda tech "Auburn" (very helpful person) was advising owners who are having exact same problem. He is stil around, you can ask him. Pelase note, this is not the type of slicone you apply to seal things, it is a can of spray ;)
  • rcinmdrcinmd Posts: 139
    I've done a couple things in an effort to quell all the creaks.
    I had noticed quite a bit of suspension noise getting into and out of the vehicle, and also when backing out of the driveway, and tapping the brakes. So I did what I have done with other cars just as a matter of course, and that is to very liberally spray all the suspension joints with lubricant. I usually use silicone spray, but in this case, I went with something a bit more potent. That actually helped. Now, as far as the body flex and resultant door creaking, if that is in fact what is happening, out of frustration, I really went to town with silicone spray, and hit all weatherstripping around the doors, latches, down inside the door through both keyway, and inside trim. There was some relief there, too. But oddly enough, since doing that, I get very distinct and loud creaks from the window when partially down. But at least I was able to confirm that by being able to press against the glass, and stop it. So I have more to do with silicone, etc. The sad part is that my Tribute is losing its "new car smell" for the aroma of WD-40.... For those of you with no creaking issues, that's great. I am sure that the smallest of assembly variances can result in what sounds like an absolute POS (can I say that?), or one which feels like it was carved from billet. My 99 Japanese-built Honda Accord was the latter. So I think I have a vehicle that is going to make these noises forever, sad to say. When it is silent, I focus on how pleasant it really is to drive. It is a brick on the interstate though, decelerating when going downhill, whereas my other cars would have gained speed. That certainly impacts gas mileage. I still have the unbelievable amount of static charge when getting out. That has to be dealt with before I burn a hole in my fingers.
  • snowmansnowman Posts: 540
    "My 99 Japanese-built Honda Accord was the latter..."

    How did you manage to get Japan built Accord in 99? :confuse:

    Because, since September 23 -1998, Honda Marysville plant will be the sole source of Accords for North America.
  • j30j30 Posts: 30
    Thanks for the tips, I have a can of silicone spray that I will start using and yes on the rear glass is the U shaped bracket. I will try your fixes and will hope for the best...
    And as was pointed out, I also still think the truck is great, a real value in its class and I do love to drive it...
    The land of flat Florida I think helps my gas mileage as I usually see 23 MPG which I think it pretty good as my Millenia get 26...
    I would have loved to get a 20 or 23 gallon tank though! I stop for gas at about 325 miles or there abouts.
  • rcinmdrcinmd Posts: 139
    Actually, there were many available that year from Japan. And, as a matter of fact, the "new" Accord, when it came out in 2003, was also available here in limited numbers from Japan. I don't think that is the case any longer, otherwise, I would test one. Interestingly, the new Accord has been slammed repeatedly for creaks and rattles inside. I wonder how the Japanese-built vehicles were. Back in 99, Honda was just firing up their plant in Mexico, and I understand that some vehicles from that plant are now being sold here.
  • nfldrocknfldrock Posts: 5
    I have an 05 tribute, when this light comes on approx how many km's are left in the tank...thanks
  • escapenutescapenut Posts: 117
    I haven't been able to take my '01 Escape V6 into a reputable transmission repair
    facility yet for a dyno-test for the whine I hear. The more I listen, the more I don't
    think it has to do with the transmission (but I could be wrong anyway). It sounds as if it's coming from the upper engine but it's hard to gauge noise location sometimes. The drivability is good and shift points seem smooth. There does not seem to be any skipping, or no-go commonly associated with tranny failure.
    My mechanic-friend seems to think it may be IAC (Idle-Air Control) motor whine,
    which it could be. I originally replaced the IAC at ~30K miles. May be time to replace it again at 72K miles if it's a problem. As I understand, electronic-throttle
    controls on '05 Escapes and Tribs. eliminates the need for an IAC. The IAC will cost ~$65 to replace if it's the problem, and takes all of five-minutes to change.
    Had to do some non-stop freeway driving the other day for about 150 miles or so,
    actually got almost 21 mpg at fill-up which I've not seen in a awhile. I still seem to be getting ~16-17 in city driving.
  • I have an '04 Escape that will stall out a couple of times a day while driving down the highway. It is rather erratic, since it may go a week or a month before it does it again. The Ford stores can't resolve the problem and it has been at two Ford Service Stores for a total of four trips. Sometimes the ABS and Brake light will go on and off before it stalls and sometimes it just stalls w/o those lights coming on.

    Has anyone else had this problem and do you know of a solution besides putting it out of its misery?
  • tomjamestomjames Posts: 1
    I have been having the same problems with my 01 ford escape V6. It first happend back in Dec, and now it happens about every three weeks, and every time i bring it to the mechanic, he can not recreate the problem. Where do i buy a IAC from, i checked a few websites and i'm not able to find it. And is it that easy to install?
  • snowmansnowman Posts: 540
    If you can change air filter, you can replace IAC. Check AutoZone or your dealer. You might want to spot other Escape forums and see what others did...
  • My 2001 Mazada Tribute DX had only 12,000 miles when I bought it used from a Mazda dealer. It came with a 6 month warranty. I immediately began experiencing problems with the clutch in 1st gear when accelerating from a stop. The dealer told me a tune up would fix the problem (90% certainty). I paid over $200 for the tune up and it did not help. After the tune up they all of a sudden acknowledged it was the clutch and said the clutch was going to be recalled by Mazda, but they want me to pay ~$750.00 to fix the pb. I asked them to honor their warranty and after being passed around to several people they finally said the most they would do is split the cost w/ me, i.e. charge me $350.00.

    Does anyone have any experience with the clutch of the 2001 Tribute DX. Is it or will it be recalled (when). Any ideas on how I can get the dealer to honor its warranty.

    Your response is appreciated.

    -Kimberly
  • fredriktfredrikt Posts: 4
    Take a spray bottle and mix some fabric softener and spray it on the seats or take a damp cloth, pour some fabric softener on it, and rub it over the seats. This usually helps with the static electricity!
  • rchlslmnrchlslmn Posts: 1
    I purchased a used 01 escape last june with 26k thinking that it would be a good family car. The car has currently less than 36k miles. In January the check engine light came on and I had to replace the CPU (central processing unit). (Yes, I do know that there is recall out on this part - recall was performed - did not fix the problem). In March of this year the check engine light came on again and this time ford said the culprit was a faulty ignition coil (they only had me pay for the part - said they had seen a few of these come in due to all the rains in southern cali this year.) Two days ago my check fuel cap light came on, today my check engine light came on - has anyone else had these repetitive engine lights?? Any suggestions?
  • rcinmdrcinmd Posts: 139
    I have sheep on my seats...... not sure wet sheep would smell very good. I have used sheepskins for many years, and never had the problem with static associated with them. I am still thinking it is the tire compound with the Continentals.
    As for the other sundry creaks, either all my spraying of the suspension and weatherstripping has helped, or the high temps have reduced them. I will apply more lubricant to the suspension joints and seals soon.

    The vehicle is running well, if a bit leisurely. The shifting action of the 5 speed has greatly smoothed out, and frankly is nicer than my Accord's was. Clutch action is as well smooth as compared to new. I test drove a Mazda6 5 door stick prior to buying the Tribute, and it, too, had a very abrupt clutch take up, so maybe that is typical of new Mazda products. The AC is not as freezing cold as the Accord's was, or my friend's Hyundai Elantra, but that is somewhat typical of Mazda from what I understand. Or maybe it is typical of Ford in this instance.
  • pdc2pdc2 Posts: 15
    reply to 3026.

    I have an escape 02 XLT v 6 and had one stalling experience without any warning lights etc, about June 02. Saw the message .1567 and enclosure therein; brought a copy of the quoted TSB to my dealer and had the engine tested and PCM reprogrammed. No further engine stalling to date.
    The same TSB may be relevant in your case.
  • escapenutescapenut Posts: 117
    On my way to work yesterday when the the instrument panel lit-up like a Christmas Tree with every conceivable lamp flashing or staying on. '01V6 XLT
    conked-out at the next stoplight. I was able to start it briefly to pull into a store
    parking-lot. I had it towed to a reputable neighborhood auto-shop. The tech.
    diagnosed it as a bad alternator within five-minutes after testing several things.
    Alternator (remanufactured) - $242.00
    Labor - $157.00 (had to get to alternator from underneath vehicle, take apart
    lower control arm, fender-well splach shield and various other
    parts).
    Total = $469.00 (including tow).
    Looks to be a valid way to change the alternator per my ALLDATA subscription
    that I checked out. Rather expensive, but it was 2.0 standard labor rate hours,
    d/t dissembly of front parts to remove and install it. That was just about correct
    too. Not like the some of the old alternators sitting up near the top that you can
    to more easilly. Runs great now that it's done, no flashing panel lights or
    electrical glitches. The only forewarning-sign I had was that my radio went dead
    about 2-minutes before I got to stoplight, which I though was strange. Then
    the instrument panel lights went kaflooey, next everything shuts-down. Not too
    good of a feeling being totally shut-down in morning traffic.
    If it's any consolation the shop-owner says that he has not seem too many failures
    on the Ford alternators. He did say he changes GM alternators, ~10-times more often than Ford. Just so happened that mine was the the Ford-one to fail that day
    or week... I'm not disappointed, becasue most alternator failures I've had have
    occurred 70-90K range on most any car I've owned previously.
  • teechteech Posts: 1
    I've had difficulty in fueling my 05 Escape. Something was obstruction the fueling tube into the tank and would cause the pump nozzle to click off, regardless of rate of delivery or how far I inserted the pump nozzle. The Ford service dept. said when they blew out the tube, they found spider webs. Apparently Ford has a service code for that and recommended I install a spider screen. How would it be possible for a spider to construct a web there and obstruct the flow of gas and oxygen?
  • f111df111d Posts: 114
    What ashame, these service departments get worst than better! I sure hope you told the service manager he's been sniffing to many fumes?
    I bet it's the same thing that it's was with the Contours/Mystiques, the one-way roll-over flapper valve at the end of the filler tube sticks. Must have been a big supply of them left over?
    My 98 Mystique every now then does after a sudden warm up in the spring. It's a long story, but I found a piece of 3/16" diameter semi-ridged nylon tubing that about 8 inches long than needed where it contacts the flapper at the end of the filler pipe. Couple easy strokes pull out the tubing and fill away.
    It's great to find a sight like the CEG -contour.org where a bunch of car buffs sharing info. Especially early in the site's history Ford/Visteon engineers participated in helping us.
    Unfortunately the CEO Nasser put a stop to that and then stopped production to build your Escape.
    I'm lookin for another such site and then I'll buy that car. Of course my 98 Mystique LS built 07/97 I'll be keeping it at least anyother l0 years, waiting for the manufactures to use common sense and offer CR diesel in a drivers chassis car. Tests where conducted a couple years ago in Europe on CR diesel 2.7liter v-6 220 hp 345 ft.lbs. torque @1900 43+mpg at stead 70 mph. It was planned for a Jag model. I lost track of what happened.

    Paul
  • oskwioskwi Posts: 88
    Well, I have currently am renting a 2005 XLT V-6 and I really enjoy the drive. I haven't driven any type of SUV before so it's a pleasure to be a little higher than a sedan!

    I've noticed some transmission problems with some of the older Escapes and was wondering what types of problems anyone is experiencing regarding the 2004's and 2005's. I can't complain about the gas mileage either...I got over 110 miles per 1/4 tank so far...mixed city and highway driving with the air conditioning on...it's 90+ here (Buffalo) today with VERY high humidity. (I can't give a more precise MPG figure since I've only had the car since this morning, BUT I was figuring I'd be lucky to get 50 miles or so per 1/4 tank...)

    Any info. would be appreciated. I just may go trade my Mazda for a smaller SUV...PLUS with a move down to Louisville in a few weeks, a Ford product may make for an easier transition for a "northener" :) (Louisville has two huge Ford plants that I know of)

    Thanks in advance for any information.
  • fredriktfredrikt Posts: 4
    I installed the trailer hitch hardware to my 2004 Escape which was pretty easy (about 3 hours). Now I need to install the wire harness. The end that connects to a trailer was easy enough, but does anybody know where the little white plastic connector is supposed to be connected to the car?
  • dc_driverdc_driver Posts: 712
    I find this really hard to believe.. My Tribute has done this twice at the same gas station several months ago (cut-off early). I did some research on other Escape/Tribute sites and it turns out that this happens to quite a few owners. I switched to a different gas station and have not had the problem since. Not sure what the problem is, but the problem does not seem to be consistent.
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