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Chevrolet Cavalier Starting/Stalling Problems

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  • Update # 2:

    Num. 3 injector was faulty & leaking. Replaced injector with new gaskets and now runs like new. No more sputtering and hesitation while in gear. Idle is nice and smooth in gear & plenty of acceleration down the road. Even idles & runs smooth with the AC running. Not bad for a car with over 217,400 miles on it! This car is full of surprises! :shades:
  • I DROVE THE CAR TO HOUSTON THIS PAST WEEKEND. THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON AND THROUGH A CODE PO 132. AUTO ZONE SAID IT WAS A O2 SENSOR SO I CHANGED IT AND 30 MIN LATER SAME CODE. WHAT THE CAR IS DOING IS IT IS STARTING PERFECT BUT AFTER A WHILE IT WILL NOT HOLD A IDLE AND TO KEEP IT FROM DYEING YOU HAVE TO KEEP ADVANCING IN SPEED AND IT WILL RUN PERFECT BUT IF YOU STOP IT WILL DIE. DOES NOT DO IT ALL THE TIME CAN ANYONE HELP. I DROVE IT BACK FROM HOUSTON AND DID NOT GIVE ME ANY TROUBLE ON THE WAY BACK BUT WHEN I GOT HOME IT SET FOR ABOUT 30 MIN AND I WENT TO THE STORE AND IT STARTED AGAIN... THANKS FOR ANY HELP
    PS CAR IS A 2000 CAVALIER 2.2 WITH 95 THOUSAND MILES :confuse:
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 872
    Is it running rich, pull the vacuum off the fuel pressure regulator, if you see or smell fuel replace it.
  • WILL THAT MAKE IT THROUGH THAT O2 SESOR CODE ALSO
  • DID THAT DID NOT SMELL GAS PLUGED IT BACK IN ENGINE LIGHT IS STILL ON AND IT IS RUNNING GREAT NO STALL NO LOSS OF POWER WHAT THE HELL CAN THIS BE... IM THINKING TRASH IN THE TANK BECAUSE IT WILL ONLY DO IT WHEN IT IS FULL ALSO... :confuse:
  • Try changing the Throttle position sensor...I had the exact same problem and it seemed to do it only when the tank was full also. I know it doesnt make sense. I went through four throttle position sensors before I got one that worked right. DO NOT BUY ONE FROM AUTO ZONE. Good think it is easy to cahnge. I have a 97 cavi. Hope this helps.
  • also check the throttle position sensor
  • have you tried throttle position sensor? mine went in and out of messing up and caused it to miss out. It never pulled a code.
  • sopunds to me like the ecm that controlls the coil packs. It is a metal plate behind the coil packs
  • my caviler is a 97 with a 2.2. it is hard to start. i can turn the key forever before it starts. it also has a slight nmiss out.

    I am a mechanic and I am stumped.

    I have changed:

    plugs, wires, coils (both), ecm, computer, fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, throttle position sensor, 02 sensor, evap container (charcole canister), all four fuel injectors, and many more other parts.

    any ideas?
  • Check for a leak, ie: fuel, coolant, vacume. I had a simular issue and it turned out to be a leaking lower injector gasket. I was able to find it after pulling my plugs out & finding excess fuel in the cylinder of my cavalier. If the gaskets are not seated just right it will leak (dump) fuel into the cylinders making it hard to start and with a slight miss after it finally starts. Hope this helps. :shades:
  • shearerdshearerd Posts: 1
    im workin on a 97 2.2 auto trans and battery keeps actin like its dead put a new alternator and battery in it. i got the car with the tranny half way out and i was wondering also the starter wiring. because when u turn the key the starters clicks. i had the starter checked and it was ok. so im pretty much stumped any help would be appreciated
  • mrtaz007mrtaz007 Posts: 1
    First off, I got a check engine light... "inefficient catalyst".. changed O2 sensor in front of catalytic converter as AutoZone rep. suggested $21 While I was under the car I noticed that the old sensor was loose, I was able to remove it by hand, "no wrench" I figured mabe that was why the light came on, it wasn't reading properly. Changed it anyways while I was under the car. A week ago ended up locking keys in the running car with the hood up. All my tools were in the locked house. Figured while I waited for someone to bring a second house key, I could stall the car and save some gas. Opened up the intake, and srayed some throttle body cleaner down the intake, usually that will stall cars right away... it sputtered a little bit, and then finally died. Got the keys back etc... good to go. Anyways, to clear the check engine light from the O2 sensor trouble, I disconnected the battery and let it sit a while. Now, the car has randomly stalled after accelerating on a cold start. One time it sputtered and died, another time it shut right off. I cleaned the battery termianls (that really were not that dirty) and it still did it again. Could I have messed something up with the throttle body cleaner ?? What else should I look into? So far I have heard, Throttle position sensor. Fuel pump, and my other car had similar issues with crank position sensors. Any info would be greatly appreciated.
    Thanks.
  • krfkrf Posts: 4
    used scanner and it told me 02 sensor circuit malfunction (bank1 sensor 1) and system to lean (bank 1) i pulled spark plug and grounded plug and cranked it got good spark, what is keeping engine from starting
  • choneychoney Posts: 1
    i have a 05 cavalier 5 spd with 85000 miles, owned the car since it was new, recently it has developed a hesitation under acceleration and highway speeds, it idles fine and theres no service engine light(trouble codes). i have replaced the air filter spark plugs and fuel filter, i have also added a bottle of fuel injuector cleaner still no change, it only hesitates intermitintly.
  • jagtwlvejagtwlve Posts: 2
    I encountered a similar problem on a chev 4cyl with a coil pack ignition ( no distributor). It would run for a while and suddenly die out and wouldn't restart until a 10 to 20 min. cooling period. It turned out to be a crankshaft position sensor going bad. On this engine it was located in the engine block under the ignition module on the firewall side.
  • jagtwlvejagtwlve Posts: 2
    Anyone with a 4cyl chevy with coil pack ignition that encounters a sudden loss of power should check if all the spark plugs are igniting. It is common for one of the two coil packs failing, causing running on only two cylinders. But it should be noted that this condition can also be caused by a failed ignition module which has a limp home mode by design when it fails and only fires two cylinders. This design is an improvement over old modules that just died and left you stranded.
  • I purchased a 2004 cavalier in May of 2004. In May of 2006 my son and I was out shopping and when we came out of the store and I started my car I had no radio, the windows would not go down, the air conditioner would not work and I had no controls on my dash, such as speed odometer, gas gauge did not work, the mileage did not turn, I had nothing but the car was running. I made it home and when I tried to turn the car off, it would not stop running. So I had a friend come over and he unhooked the battery and removed a fuse and the car shut off. I had it towed to the car dealer where I bought it and they replaced the ignition switch. Well here it is again 2 years later and the other day the car started but once again I had nothing in the car, no air, no radio and no dash controls but this time we could shut it off. Now it will not start at all when you turn the key, but you can pop the clutch to start it. Anyone with any ideas, PLEASE HELP!!!!! :mad:
  • krfkrf Posts: 4
    i used scanner and it told me 02 sensor circuit malfunction (bank1 sensor 1) and i also got system to lean (bank 1) i pulled spark plug and it was dry grounded plug and cranked it got good spark, the engine will not start what is keeping engine from starting any ideas would be helpful i am stumped at this time. :confuse: the car does have a half tank of gas in it
  • bbve78bbve78 Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 cavalier with 160,000 kms on it about three months ago it started to stall (usually when at a complete stop) I had the computer read and it said my o2 sensor so it was replaced about a week later it started again so again had it read is was the MAP sensor so It was replaced and with that the throttle body gasket was replaced, it then began to stall when ever it pleased it is now reading sytem to lean I have had it looked at and nobody can seem to figure it out I also had the cadilac convertor change just in case it was plugged, that wasnt the problem either i dont know alot about cars and am very frustrated somebody please help ???? any suggestions???
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 872
    Filter in the tank dirty, fuel pump going bad. Have some one check fuel pressure to see if it is in specs.
  • bbve78bbve78 Posts: 2
    Ok I will have that checked and see if that what it is. Thank you for the sugestion !!
  • I just joined this forum today and saw your message. If you are still having a starter problem, when this happened to me, after the third starter change my mechanic found a bad wire (fusible link) to the starter assembly. The starter would spin but not engage most of the time. Mechanic tried wiggling the wires and found the wire broken internally, went back to starter #2 and got refund for #3.
  • I have a 1997 Z-24 Cavalier 5-spd with 140,000 miles which is great to drive most of the time. Dead stock except for Goodyear F-1 tires it will out-corner a Lotus Exige on a tight road with no straight sections. But I had that "stall at idle and won't restart until the car sits for 10-20 minutes" problem that others have had. After replacing almost the entire ignition and fuel systems and most of the sensors, it turned out to be the crankshaft position sensor that was causing the stalling. I still have a rough idle when cold and the evap system will not run its diagnostic, occasionally lighting the MIL light with code P0440. The O2 sensor is original and slow to pass its diagnostic, so plan to replace it and then try to find the evap problem. I'm wondering if the rough idle, slow O2 sensor and evap errors are related. Any ideas? I'd like to go back to hunting Lotuses again.
  • lady04lady04 Posts: 1
    Hi I have a 92 chevy cavalier 2.2 I had broken wires and replaced them also the plugs. IDrove it for 6 days and it died found out we had no spark So I then replaced the control module,and crank sensor,the coils tested good.After trying to start car saw sparks from yet another broken wire,replaced the wires again.
    Drove it to work it did fine. On the way home it sounded as it was misfiring and if i got up tp 35 it would stall. Came home to check plugs and yet again another set of bad wires got new ones again. Now if I try to start the car it runs for a second and stalls.it will not stay running,plus it sounds like it maybe backfiring,and even misfirig,but we have double and triple checked to make sure we are connecting wires in right order.Can anyone help me I am at the end of my ropes and running out of money.I need this car to work and can not get another car.Any help would be greatly appreciated. :confuse:
  • I really could use some advice on this dilema....My car has given me no other issues other than this one. When I go to start my car and go to pull out it will stall on me ( not all the time). Having this issue for some time I have figured out that what I need to do to get it not to stall is to turn my wheel right then left (or left to right) for the check engine, abs and no track light to come on. Once those lights are on then I can pull out with no problem. I had my car hooked up to a computer and the only thing that tells the mechanic is that I have a right front wheel sensor issue. I did not have it fixed just yet because I wanted to see what else people had to say. Also if I can start up and pull out without those lights to come on and go to excellerate for example at a traffice light...my car will hesitate and the no track light comes on but then will go off..any suggestions would be very helpful...or if anyone else has had this similar problem, I would like to know how you repaired your vehicle...thanks!
  • dave923dave923 Posts: 1
    The car starts and revs just fine but when i put it into reverse or drive it stalls out. i can put it into nuetural and it will be just fine. transmission fluid and oil is checked and is fine. could it be a soloniod? transmision, need to have this car run for about a week before i go into the navy so i dont need it long.
  • Hi,

    I have an '05 Cavalier and have EXACTLY the same problem you have with your '04. I had one wheel sensor replaced and the problem stopped for about a week and now is doing it again - the stalling when taking off and such. Did you ever get yours fixed?

    Let me know, thanks!
  • Hi,
    In Feb 08 , I hit a huge puddle and car would stall. I had wire and plugs replaced. In May after rain, it stalled again when I slowed down to stop or make a turn. 2 days later, I brought to mechanic and it worked fine.
    In August it rained and same thing , I left it at mechanic for 5 days and when he got to look at it there was nothing wrong. He said codes were fine and did a pressure test as I had water pump replaced in June. He said next time it happens come back. .
    Friday it rained really hard but I did not drive the car. Saturday same thing happened but this time I could feel it not running right. I pulled over and it stalled. When it stalls, it just shuts off. The only time a light ever came on was Saturday and it came on just once, TRAC lite but only once.
    Brought it to mechanic today, Monday. He put scanner and got a miscommunication signal. If he cannot figure it out by pulling and looking at wires. He said go to another guy in the next town who is good with electrical problems. It does not have the TCC torque converter to pull off. .
    Anyone have something like this. I have searched the web and found nothing like this. It does not happen all the time after it rains as it rained a lot in the summer. I would bet by Wednesday 5 days later the car will be fine until it happens again.
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