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Chevrolet Cavalier Starting/Stalling Problems

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  • gonogogonogo Posts: 869
    Filter in the tank dirty, fuel pump going bad. Have some one check fuel pressure to see if it is in specs.
  • bbve78bbve78 Posts: 2
    Ok I will have that checked and see if that what it is. Thank you for the sugestion !!
  • I just joined this forum today and saw your message. If you are still having a starter problem, when this happened to me, after the third starter change my mechanic found a bad wire (fusible link) to the starter assembly. The starter would spin but not engage most of the time. Mechanic tried wiggling the wires and found the wire broken internally, went back to starter #2 and got refund for #3.
  • I have a 1997 Z-24 Cavalier 5-spd with 140,000 miles which is great to drive most of the time. Dead stock except for Goodyear F-1 tires it will out-corner a Lotus Exige on a tight road with no straight sections. But I had that "stall at idle and won't restart until the car sits for 10-20 minutes" problem that others have had. After replacing almost the entire ignition and fuel systems and most of the sensors, it turned out to be the crankshaft position sensor that was causing the stalling. I still have a rough idle when cold and the evap system will not run its diagnostic, occasionally lighting the MIL light with code P0440. The O2 sensor is original and slow to pass its diagnostic, so plan to replace it and then try to find the evap problem. I'm wondering if the rough idle, slow O2 sensor and evap errors are related. Any ideas? I'd like to go back to hunting Lotuses again.
  • lady04lady04 Posts: 1
    Hi I have a 92 chevy cavalier 2.2 I had broken wires and replaced them also the plugs. IDrove it for 6 days and it died found out we had no spark So I then replaced the control module,and crank sensor,the coils tested good.After trying to start car saw sparks from yet another broken wire,replaced the wires again.
    Drove it to work it did fine. On the way home it sounded as it was misfiring and if i got up tp 35 it would stall. Came home to check plugs and yet again another set of bad wires got new ones again. Now if I try to start the car it runs for a second and stalls.it will not stay running,plus it sounds like it maybe backfiring,and even misfirig,but we have double and triple checked to make sure we are connecting wires in right order.Can anyone help me I am at the end of my ropes and running out of money.I need this car to work and can not get another car.Any help would be greatly appreciated. :confuse:
  • I really could use some advice on this dilema....My car has given me no other issues other than this one. When I go to start my car and go to pull out it will stall on me ( not all the time). Having this issue for some time I have figured out that what I need to do to get it not to stall is to turn my wheel right then left (or left to right) for the check engine, abs and no track light to come on. Once those lights are on then I can pull out with no problem. I had my car hooked up to a computer and the only thing that tells the mechanic is that I have a right front wheel sensor issue. I did not have it fixed just yet because I wanted to see what else people had to say. Also if I can start up and pull out without those lights to come on and go to excellerate for example at a traffice light...my car will hesitate and the no track light comes on but then will go off..any suggestions would be very helpful...or if anyone else has had this similar problem, I would like to know how you repaired your vehicle...thanks!
  • dave923dave923 Posts: 1
    The car starts and revs just fine but when i put it into reverse or drive it stalls out. i can put it into nuetural and it will be just fine. transmission fluid and oil is checked and is fine. could it be a soloniod? transmision, need to have this car run for about a week before i go into the navy so i dont need it long.
  • Hi,

    I have an '05 Cavalier and have EXACTLY the same problem you have with your '04. I had one wheel sensor replaced and the problem stopped for about a week and now is doing it again - the stalling when taking off and such. Did you ever get yours fixed?

    Let me know, thanks!
  • Hi,
    In Feb 08 , I hit a huge puddle and car would stall. I had wire and plugs replaced. In May after rain, it stalled again when I slowed down to stop or make a turn. 2 days later, I brought to mechanic and it worked fine.
    In August it rained and same thing , I left it at mechanic for 5 days and when he got to look at it there was nothing wrong. He said codes were fine and did a pressure test as I had water pump replaced in June. He said next time it happens come back. .
    Friday it rained really hard but I did not drive the car. Saturday same thing happened but this time I could feel it not running right. I pulled over and it stalled. When it stalls, it just shuts off. The only time a light ever came on was Saturday and it came on just once, TRAC lite but only once.
    Brought it to mechanic today, Monday. He put scanner and got a miscommunication signal. If he cannot figure it out by pulling and looking at wires. He said go to another guy in the next town who is good with electrical problems. It does not have the TCC torque converter to pull off. .
    Anyone have something like this. I have searched the web and found nothing like this. It does not happen all the time after it rains as it rained a lot in the summer. I would bet by Wednesday 5 days later the car will be fine until it happens again.
  • Ok, It's a 5-speed manual and when I turn on the accessories, no dash lights turn on, windows won't work, and the car won't even try to turn over at all. Yet the headlights are fine, the horn is fine, and so are the locks, etc. Now I was fiddling with the windows and locks when the dash lights worked again, it also again started. Now it keeps doing this, and even fiddling the windows and locks won't do it anymore (only worked 2x anyway). It's obviously some electrical problem, but I have no idea where to begin. I have checked the fuses and it seems all fine. Please help me, or get me on the right path to fixing this.
  • THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR. Mounted on the throttle shaft of the carburetor or throttle body, the throttle position Sensor (TPS) changes resistance as the throttle opens and closes. The computer uses this information to monitor engine load, acceleration, deceleration and when the engine is at idle or wide open throttle. The sensor's signal is used by the PCM to enrich the fuel mixture during acceleration, and to retard and advance ignition timing.

    Throttle Position Sensor Strategies: Many TPS sensors require an initial voltage adjustment when installed. This adjustment is critical for accurate operation. On some engines, a separate idle switch and/or wide open throttle (WOT) switch may also be used. Driveability symptoms due to a bad TPS can be similar to those caused by a bad MAP sensor: The engine will run without this input, but it will run poorly.
  • This is probably a little late. I just joined in the forum. I had a 91 cavalier that started giving me problems with no dash or radio. If the key was not in the correct position, back to RUN mode. This happened. I now have a 94 cavalier with 238K miles on it and I had to change the key switch. Then the other day the car would start and immediately die. Thought it was the key switch again. It turned out to be the electrical part of the ignition switch(the part that the key switch connects to). Much cheaper than the key part of the switch.

    Just to check it out. After getting access to the ignition switch, I disconnected the switch from the key switch and just used a screw driver in the electrical switch and tried to start the car. Had same problem, thus eliminating the the key part of the system.

    Changed the electrical part of the ignition switch, and that was my problem.
    Hope that helps.
  • Hello i had same problem but in a 1190 chevy, my advice an same problem was the torgue converter an speed sensor, soooooo about 260.00 buks good luck
    mckeeslia@aol.com :) ;)
  • Mechanic found open IAC harness 5 days ago. Spliced into it but car still died (stalled) on decel and stopping. Went back and then he relaced IAC motor. Left garage and drove 1/2 mile stalled on decel and at stop sign. Immediately went back to shop and everything checks out OK . I am $500 bucks into it now.
    Mechanic said might be computer which he is said is unusual on GM He said the computer drivers might be bad for IAC unit. Since I got the IAC motor, I drove it 70 miles and died one when I was rolling (2-5 mph). Then drove it 20 miles and died at a red light and then taking a turn. The 20 mile drive home it did not die. It is running better but still dies.
    Mechanic does not know what it is. I will call tomorrow. He was going to check it GM changed calibrations on it.
    I doubt a computer driver would be bad only when it is stopping or going at a low.
    spreed.
  • Hello There.
    I have a 1990 chevy Caviler. Ive had numerous things done to it cause it was given to me an i really had no funds to gets another car, so i keep putting little sums of cash, which i have an to get another car i'd need a lump sum an, not able too.
    Soooo here the problem, I got car in 2007, i put in new brakes, solenoid, torque converter, gaskets, a flush, new transmission, new fuel pump, speed sensor. Im at wits end.

    The car must be driven up to 5 to 10 miles before car starts acting up. Then i feel a release of some sort in my gas foot peddle leg, an about 3 to 10miles later car starts sputtering an then it chugs out, then i must wait a gd 10 to 20 minutes before starting back up.

    Please any one knowing anything please help!!!

    :mad: :mad: :mad:

    Mckeeslia@aol.com
  • Called mechanic and no return call.
    They fixed IAC motor and open in harness.
    It has shut off a couple times when stopping since the fix. I put in fuel injector cleaner with a full tank of gas on Monday.
    It ran fine then the car started hestitating and stopped pulling into my driveway. Tuesday it ran fine all day for 50 miles.
    Wednesday after 20 miles, car started hestitating and stopped a few times and it always has started up. When I go out, I bet it will work.
    Any ideas?
  • WOW, Hello there, I have same problem, today car is at tom clark cheverlot, in Pittsburgh, im going nuts. Im 1500 .00 into it, an it stills stalls an i have a 1990. I hate this. Today the man cant find anything wrong with it either it wont staqll for him, only meeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee! CraP Gd luck if i hear something ill tell u, u here something tell me, ok?

    mckeeslia@aol.com
  • Sounds Good, mckeeslia .
    When I drove it at lunch 2 hours after it hesitated the first time, the car started to hestitate and then it died like 5 times in 5 minutes. I drove it back to work and called the garage. Of course 30 minutes later, I drive home by the garage and do circles around the garage for 30 minutes and it does not stall. If it stalled, I was going to have them scan it as it usually will stall a few times after the first time.
    The garage is giving me a loaner for 2 days and the mechanic is going to take it home and see if it happens. He will have a scanner hooked up to it when he drives it to his house.
    In the Sunfire forum, someone said the dealer would give you a scanner and when it happens then you hit a button to get the error code. I asked the garage and they said no but they are not a dealer. You might want to ask the dealer for a scanner to use or try asking another dealer.
    Does anyone think I should buy a scanner at autozone 40-60 bucks to see if I can get an error code when it happens ?
  • Hopefully, it is fixed.
    The garage who I never went to before found an open in IAC harness and then replaced the IAC motor. When he replaced the IAC motor, it died 1 mile down the street and he spent 45 minutes looking at it last Friday at 5:00 pm but everything seemed normal as we could not recreate the stall on his scanner. He said he likes challenges.
    Yesterday before I dropped my car off, I drove around for 20 minutes and it stalled in front of his door. He immediately came out as he knew the stalling was sporadic. I was there for 1 hour and he gave me a loaner to use for the day.
    Long story short, he found 2 ground wires that had corroded and he replaced them. He even put the old IAC motor back but it had unstable readings so he put the new one back. He said the 2 open grounds probably caused the IAC motor to burn out.
    It is running differentlry than in the last month as there seems to be more power.
    The cost for 3 hours of his time and a loaner car was $0. There are some good guys out. As I said before, my regular mechanic referred me to him.
    Find a good mechanic.and forget the dealer. His guys are GM certified .
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