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GMC Yukon XL and Yukon XL Denali

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  • sub9904sub9904 Posts: 72
    It bothers me too. The roof is very flimsy imo. However, I've read that Nissan is aware of the problem and is going to fix it. Assuming it does get fixed I'd rather have that as an issue vs the trannie and engine and other parts that GM seems to have.
    I read another board exclusive for Suburban owners. You'd be amazed at all the reoccuring problems that pop up amongst the fellow posters. I've already mentioned the IM leak. Most have replaced the fuel pump at 100k miles. Most have gone through at least one A/C compressor. Trannies. You'd think you could get more than 100k miles before having to go through all of that. Knock on wood for my engine and trannie but been there done that on the rest. All that and I'd still consider buying another burb. Not many alternatives though.
  • highenderhighender Posts: 1,364
    yes, I have a 1500. I did notice some smell, like burnt oil or transmission , on the way up a very steep, very long, montain road this past weekend. Do you think I should have a mechanic check it, or just check the trans fluid dip stick ?? I had a new engine placed in it, so I only have 10,000 miles on the engine, 59,000 on the rest . Do you think IM leaks will occur now ?

    thanks for your info...
  • sub9904sub9904 Posts: 72
    I wouldn't even bother checking the level. Just go get the fluid completely flushed with new filter too.
    Surprised you already have a new engine with such low miles. Was it a new crate engine? You might not have any problem with it. I wouldn't worry about it at this point since your engine is so new.
    If you are really worried there is a co. called Blackstone Labs www.blackstone-labs.com They can do an oil analysis and tell you if there are any problems with coolant etc. They caught my last leak very early. Cost 20 bucks and is well worth it imo.
  • highenderhighender Posts: 1,364
    yes....well mine has a supercharger on it...and I tried to add synthetic oil into the engine at about 40,000 mile marker,,...then after a few months,I noticed the coolant level going down, so I added more and just kept on driving, then added more....and so on for about a week....(stupid me) when I finally brought it in, I had already damaged the bearings.....so paid $4000 and change to have a new one installed. It has regular organic oil now....I'm a little leary of changing to synthetic....what do you think ?

    what is a new crate engine ? Yes, they did take out the whole thing and installed a whole new one....if thats what you mean.. thanks
  • sub9904sub9904 Posts: 72
    Sounds like you had an IM leak. The disappearing coolant was going into your engine oil. It will damage the bearings. The Blackstone analysis would show both bearing wear and coolant in the oil.

    Yup you have a crate engine. So there is a very good chance that you won't have the IM leak again. Where did you get the engine from? Even if GM I believe they are no longer using the same gaskets. That's why I asked my original question for which no one seems to have any input.

    As for dino oil (organic) I think you are fine using that. I've got over 134k miles and it's all I ever used. I burn less than a quart per 3k miles of normal driving. If on a long road trip I'll burn more. Just make sure you change it regularly. You could also use synthetic too. I've read that it's not good to start using if you have an older engine. It is so fine that you can actually start leaking oil. But personally I'd just stick with what you are using.

    I am leaning more and more towards the Armada. Just hoping my Sub can last until fall w/out having to throw in another couple of grand. But I've already put 1600 into it since Oct. Funny thing I read on another board that the owner of a sub has been spending about 2k/year for repairs for the last 3. That's not counting maintenance either.
  • Just took delivery on a 2004 GMC Yukon XL 3/4 ton with wheel flares and factory running boards. Dealer says GM does not make molded mud guards for this truck. Does anyone know of a vendor that makes molded flaps for this truck??
  • beach15beach15 Posts: 1,305
    Fitzmall is adverstising all of their regular Yukons and Denalis with at a price that equates to almost exaclty $10k off. These are all brand new 2004's.

    Any idea of what the actual break down of rebates and dealer discounts are that allow them to do this? I'm just interested because they're not anywhere near me and I might be interested in a new '04 XL if I can figure out how to get a local dealer to come down $10k!
  • stakeoutstakeout Posts: 173
    might want to try their online sales site at http://www.fitzmall.com

    do a Search on the make then type of vehicle you are looking at... they have posted selling prices etc..

    has anyone on here bought a vehicle from them .. reliable..know anything about them ???
  • highenderhighender Posts: 1,364
    I got the engine from my mechanic, who ordered it from GM, I think. So if they are no longer making this gasket, then my engine should not have the IM leak, right ?

    Your diagnosis is right on the money....that is exactly what my mechanic said.... :-(

    I guess I could keep using dino oil...but some have suggested syn oil... But I am just afraid the cleansing properties of the syn oil will cause another gasket leak.

    the Armada , from what i hear, will be a great vehicle. good luck.

    and thanks for all your help... :-)
  • sub9904sub9904 Posts: 72
    I think you are ok with the new gaskets. Just make sure you monitor the fluids. I check mine ALL the time (few times a week). Only because mine is older.
    Still think you are safe going to synthetic since your new engine has such low miles but dino is fine too. Just don't use synthetic in the trannie or differential because of the miles on the sub. Oh and get the trannie fluid changed soon.
    Still not sure about the Armada. I really like the cargo space of a burb.
  • Hi I have read the article above, regarding where to purchase (gmpartsdirec.com) extra headphones for the Yukon XL Denali(04) DVD system.

    Does anyone know what the part # is?
  • sub9904sub9904 Posts: 72
    Read on the other thread you have a K&N. I'd get rid of it if I were you. I had one in mine. It screwed up the MSA by depositing oil from the air cleaner onto the filaments. It won't happen right away but it will or can. Makes you wonder what is going into the engine. Caused the burb to miss off and on for about 15 months before I got it fixed. Very intermittent. Drove me crazy. What made it worse was going through a dust storm outside of Reno and the ash from the fires combined with the Santa Ana winds. I had cleaned it back in March too so knew it was fairly clean. When the mechanic showed me it last month it was filthy. New MSA isn't cheap either. My mechanic cleaned mine up even though GM doesn't recommend it. Runs great now. Not to mention new air filter.
  • beach15beach15 Posts: 1,305
    I know all about the site and the listed prices--that's where I got the $10k off from! What I was asking was if anyone knew what rebates or other incentives there are out there, in addition to dealer discounts, that can allow them to cut such a big chunk off the price.
  • looramlooram Posts: 17
    Does anyone know when the Suburban is due for a redesign? Also, are there any pictures out there of the new redesigned Suburban?
  • davids1davids1 Posts: 411
    All right, I'll ask. What is "the MSA". In my lingo that means "Maximum Size Aggregate". I know that not what you are talking about.
  • sub9904sub9904 Posts: 72
    Sorry a bit of a typo on my part. Its called the Mass Air Sensor and sits between your air cleaner and intake manifold. Think the mechanic said it runs about 250-300 bucks if I remember right. He just used some carb cleaner and a cardboard match stick to clean it. Rubbed the match stick against the filaments. Heck I could have done that! Q-tip would work just as well if not better imo.
    Anybody going to buy a new vehicle I'd strongly suggest using consumer reports pricing guide for 10 bucks. I got one on the suburban and was surprised to see that the dealer is getting over 1100 back from GM/vehicle on their holdbacks. As an example the dealer cost right now on a bare bones 1500 LS 2x4 is a shade over 29.1k Anything over that is profit. That includes the rebates.
  • beach15beach15 Posts: 1,305
    Next year, the 2005 model, will just receive the typical cosmetic updates, like new colors and the in-dash Navigation System. For 2006, the redesigned models will be out. All the exterior sheet metal will be new except for the roof, meaning that it really doesn't look all that different. The front bumper is lower and the grille is considerably larger and taller, along with much bigger headlights. On the inside, it's all new and supposedly very stylish and high quality.

    I have some pics that will give you a good idea of what to expect, I'll try and get them up within an hour!
  • Just purchased a 2004 2500 Chevy Suburban 8.1L 3:73. Just prior to this I ordered the same thing with the 6.0L engine. The 6.0L came in with the wrong interior color. They let me take it home for a few days hoping I would take it. I liked the ride and the feel of it compared to my 1988 2500 Chevy Sub 7.4 that I had put 400,000 miles on (two engines and 1 new tranny). I was not happy with the color of the 6.0L so they reordered for me.

    After reading many posts on this and other forums I noticed that I would not be able to tow much more that the 1500 series suburban unless I went with the 4:10 or the 8.1L engine. I decided to reorder with the 8.1 since the mileage penalty was not going to be that much and I could still get the 3:73 since it is my daily driver just like my good old 88 2500 7.4L Sub.

    Just got the new sub and it looks perfect, but it seems to ride just a little better than my old 88 2500 7.4L Sub. It seams rougher riding than the 6.0L did. I can really feel the road with the 8.1L. I am trying to figure out why. Would anybody know why I am experiencing a different and stiffer feel they are both 2500’s, I had autoride on both and (autoride is mandatory with the 8.1). I know it’s still a truck and will never ride like a car I just want to make sure that this thing is operating correctly such as the autoride. The following below are the only things I can think of please add your comments if you may know why.

    1. I have heard rumors of different axle design (Full Floating and heavier on 8.1L vs. Semi-Floating and lighter on the 6L) Can’t get a straight answer on this from GM or local dealers.

    2. I forgot to check the tire brand on the 6.0 but it did come out of the dealer under pressure at 40 psi. just like the 8.1. On the 8.1 I have the notorious Firestones. Some say these ride rougher than Michelins.

    3. I received the other truck two months ago when it was warmer. It has become very cold in the northeast and lots of potholes and buckled seams in the road that were not there 2 months ago.

    Just want to make sure that this suburban that I am going to keep for the next who knows how many years is right from the start.

    Thanks for any light you can shed on this mystery for me.
  • beach15beach15 Posts: 1,305
    Okay, here's the link to the pics. They're at the end, after the C6 and Ford pics:

    http://community.webshots.com/album/106016140hpPGSI
  • highenderhighender Posts: 1,364
    yeah....I did not know what MSA was, but mass air flow sensor....yes.....

    Yes, I do have a K&N.....but want to keep it because of the increased air flow needed for the supercharger....but I will be careful with the cleaning and oiling of the airfilter.....I heard you only need to clean it every 50,000 miles or so, depending on usage and dirt levels. I just did the cleaning about 15,000 miles ago. so will wait a little ....

    but I did dirve it to Disneyland during the firestorm last year (october) and had to drive around to get to Las Vegas....they closed I-15 due to the fire....it was an inferno....had to go I-10 East, then I-95 north.....took me and the SUbbie another 7 hours.....so I guess the filter is severely clogged......maybe I will clean it after the superbowl....:-)

    I will also try to get the mechanic to clean the MAS filaments.....

    thanks again .....
  • Husky makes a pretty good mud flap. I got mine mail order through Cabellas. Pretty easy to install and they fit well.
  • Was wondering what everybody out there thinks about buying an extended warranty. Should I go through the dealership? They seem kinda high. Have also looked online and found a couple of pretty good ones there. Should I even think about getting one? I have an 02 yukon xl with 4 wheel drive. What does everybody think? Would I be OK without the extra protection? I am close to end of gm warranty and have not had any problems so far. If that makes any difference. Thanks for your advise in advance. tbone
  • lobsenzalobsenza Posts: 619
    The newer SUVs have an additional position on the headlight switch that my 2001 does not have. What is it for?
  • tdohtdoh Posts: 298
    "Maybe the new bulb wiil help quick burn-outs."

    Yep, nothing like making it easier to smoke them tires on our GM SUVs...LOL! j/k...
  • WOW! Those must be some powerful light beams!?!

    But, if I remember my physics correctly (every action has an equal and opposite reaction), wouldn't those bulbs only help with burnouts in reverse?!? ;-)
  • lmc58lmc58 Posts: 1
    Does anyone know how to get at the license plate bulb on a 97 Suburban? The hitch gets in the way from behind, and I don't see another way to get in there to change the bulb!
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    From the GM factory manual, for all 5 variants of the 97 Suburban:

    Removal procedure
    1. Remove the lens from the lamp assembly
    2. Remove the bulb

    Installation procedure
    1. Install the bulb
    2. Install the lens to the lamp assembly
    3. Install the wiring to the back of the lens assembly
  • Does anyone else have this problem?? It seems GMC is very much aware of the engine knock, and is quietly buying some back after giving the owners a major run around. Go to www.pistonslap.com to read more about this problem. I am one of the owners that GMC is giving a major run around. First they were going to replace my engine with no guarantee that the new one would not knock also. I refused. Then they offered me the new engine with a 6 yr./100,000 mile warranty. I accepted. A week later GMC Customer service called me and said they had NO engine fix for my vehicle and would tear the whole engine apart and replace the pistons. I refused. I am now battling it out with them to buy back my vehicle. This is certainly not what I expected when I bought my Yukon XL. I paid $40,000.00 for a piece of junk. The sunroof also leaked, and am having the trim all around the vehicle replaced for the second time. I thought I was getting a quality product for my money, but no more GMC for me.
  • mitzijmitzij Posts: 612
    Save your money. If your worried about the big bill that might happen somewhere down the road, set aside money each month in a repair fund. You'll earn interest on it and if you never need it, you still have your money. Most people do not see a return of their money when they buy a service contract. If you MUST buy one, go with a factory backed, top of the line contract. Be sure you know exactly what is not covered and what your deductible is. Read the contract carefully.
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