Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





GMC Yukon XL and Yukon XL Denali

1110111113115116132

Comments

  • sub9904sub9904 Posts: 72
    I was refering to people that have never towed (1500) and still have had problems with their trannies going out. It's not just one isolated incident either. Far as I'm concerned the trannie is the weak link and would not buy a 1500 even if I was towing only 3k lbs. Then again I don't plan on buying another Suburban either.

    GM products seem to be good for 100k miles (if lucky) then watch out. Mine is at 136k now and am spending about 3k dollars/year to keep it running the past two. Love the engine though but really think it's time for something new.
  • stakeoutstakeout Posts: 173
    we have the tow packages on both our Suburbans.. tranny cooler included.. so to me that's a non-issue.. and we don't tow ...

    here's the recommended maintenance for the transmission on our Suburbans.. goes for the Tahoe also..same-same book..

    you will note that the tranny fluid and filter does NOT require it be changed at 30K miles .. at 50K ONLY if used heavily under certain conditions and for ALL to be changed at 100K miles.. so maintenance except for checking for leaks/fluid levels has nothing to do with their trannies being sub-standard.. let's keep and put the blame on the manufacturer NOT the consumer.. that is the very first mention of any tranny maintenance in their schedule..

    here's a page from the '01 Subn/Tahoe book
    http://greengrouper.com/ggserver/SubnMaintenance.jpeg

    if a mfgr says a truck can tow a certain poundage.. then it should.. that doesn't mean it can tow it and then break down..

    I won't even get back into the serious problem with Subn front ends with excessive inside tire wear..
  • erinsquarederinsquared Posts: 178
    Stakeout, you are right about the manufacturer's suggested 50k/100k mile transmission service interval and this is the same for an '01 Denali, but I think we all agree that heat and fluid breakdown is the enemy of the transmission. Companies are aggressively marketing their products as low maintenance, so now we have 100k mile spark plug changes and 150k mile coolant flushes. Does that mean that a spark plug is giving you the same spark at 80k miles as one at 5k miles; I doubt it. I would also be worried about pulling a trailer up Pike's peak with 95k miles on the original factory transmission fluid even if that was the only time I ever used the vehicle to tow. In these cases, I try to use my own judgment - I would rather pay $129.00 for a transmission flush 2 times before the 100k recommended allowance before risking failure due to fluid breakdown. How many people actually check the fluid level and quality (color red or black?) periodically? I may be a little over cautious; I run K&N oil filters and synthetic oil changing at the regular intervals. In fact, I would have put in synthetic transmission fluid when I had the tranny flushed, but the dealership is not really setup to do that kind of job. I'll have it done at the next interval in an off-road specialty shop. Wasted money? Maybe, but I think of it as insurance that may prevent me from having to do a major overhaul since I plan on keeping this baby a long time and I do like to put my foot in the throttle ;)
  • tdohtdoh Posts: 298
    "the two best cars that my wife.. and for that matter that I've.. ever owned for quality build were back to back new '92 and '95 Infiniti Q45's.. she never had one single problem with either car...not a hiccup.. great cars.."

    Well, for how much a Q45 goes for and the fact that it's made by a luxury nameplate (Infiniti)--one should expect very few problems with such a vehicle. What I'm getting at with this is that you are clearly comparing apples and oranges by comparing a luxury make (Infiniti)--for which a high expectation of quality/reliability would and should be expected--with a non-luxury one (Chevy/GMC).
  • stakeoutstakeout Posts: 173
    but it's funny you mention that.. when we leased the Q's they were at the same price level.. as today's Suburbans are in the mid 40's range.. now they are a bit more... but so are the Suburbans.. a new LT 'burban is about at $50K MSRP loaded..

    for $45K and up right now nothing should go wrong .. in theory and a make believe world... with a Suburban-Tahoe -Denali- or the Yukon twins.. the only thing different for me is that it's hard to carry a load of fishing gear in a 'Q' compared to what you can get into a 'burban.. dollars is dollars.. space is not..

    now why couldn't Ford come out with their extended Expedition this year instead of in 2006( late 2005) giving the Excursion a stay of execution until 2005 according to Motor trend.. it sure doesn't look like Toyota or Nissan will ever come out with a Suburban beater of that size..oh well.. more in the make believe world I guess..
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 41,560
    CR is reporting that domestic car quality has passed the German imports, but the Japanese cars are still leading. At least that's the way I heard it on the TV tonight - no link off-hand. The upshot seemed to be that GM and Ford were doing much better with car quality in recent years.

    What is an American car?

    Steve, Host

    Moderator
    Minivan fan. Feel free to message or email me - stever@edmunds.com.

  • liquidlabliquidlab Posts: 23
    It's not the door hinges but the check/strap.(middle hinge?)
    GM have a TBS on it and replaced it on newer model with plastic coated straps.
    I had the same problem with my 2001 and had it done under warranty, noise is gone.
  • stakeoutstakeout Posts: 173
    here's that article again about this year's CR quality survey on vehicles from my post in #3489

    http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/4482167/
  • davids1davids1 Posts: 411
    Although post 3504 may be what your problem is, you may consider using something other than WD40. WD40 is not the best lubricant. It has some lubricating qualities but is used more for it's solvent characteristics. Try a spray synthetic lubricant or white lithium grease with the spray tube to get it into tight locations.
  • All,

    I read other posts about WD40 not being the best lubricant so I tried some spray lithium grease like you suggested. Unfortunately with no luck.

    I do think I found the TSB for this problem:

    Component Description:
    60. STRUCTURE:BODY:DOOR:HINGE AND ATTACHMENTS NHTSA Number: 259327
    Bulletin Number: 010864015
    Bulletin Date: OCT 2001
     
    Vehicle: 2000 Chevrolet Suburban
    Summary:
    SUBJECT REGARDING FRONT AND REAR SIDE DOOR ACCESS DOOR NOISE (REPLACE DOOR CHECK LINK). *JG
     
    Does anyone know how I can get the details for this repair?

    Thanks for the input,
    Bo
  • tdohtdoh Posts: 298
    True, but remember though--how much did a new full-size GM SUV retail for (comparing MSRP here) back in '92 and '95? Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think probably not the same price as that for a brand-new '92 or '95 Q45, respectively...

    I think one thing we can both agree on as far as current pricing for full-size GM SUVs--for as much as they go for these days, you'd think that you would get more for your money...
  • chuckie3chuckie3 Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 Suburban with 55K miles. About 1,000 miles ago I began hearing a high pitch ringing when the engine is running. I'm sure it's the fuel pump. Sound is a little less when the tank is full, and gets louder as the tank empties. Anyone else have this problem? Should I just replace the pump and anyone know how much it would cost?
  • stakeoutstakeout Posts: 173
    'ab-so-lude-lee'.. that's what I was trying to get at... outrageous prices in today's market along with their outrageous mfgr's profits on SUV's.. should equal better quality in that high-dollar SUV.. I guess they don't think like that...
  • davids1davids1 Posts: 411
    If you find out the specifics on the TSB, let us know.
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 41,560
    Thanks for the refresher link, Stakeout. I guess I didn't follow your first one :-)

    The Japanese automakers best be looking over their shoulders.

    Steve, Host

    Moderator
    Minivan fan. Feel free to message or email me - stever@edmunds.com.

  • catamcatam Posts: 331
    So are you just choosing to ignore the fact that all reports on reliability show that todays Suburban IS far more reliable than it was 10 years ago.
    That is the jist of the CR article, American quality has improved significantly.
    As far as tranny reliabilty goes, you state, "if a mfgr says a truck can tow a certain poundage.. then it should.. that doesn't mean it can tow it and then break down.."
    There are a couple of simple facts you are ignoring, first the tranny failures aren't occuring the first time you tow, they occur after tens of thousands miles.
    Second, as another poster pointed out, the maintenance schedule are guidelines, and they provide projections based on normal use. If you are under heavy use ie. towing you should follow a heavy use maintenance schedule and use some common sense (like checking the tranny fluid periodically for color, odor, etc. If the fluid shows signs of breakdown change it.)

    Another thing everyone wants to forget, and I pointed out in a previous post, all automakers have models that have auto trannys with early reported failures.
    I gave the example of the Honda Odyssey as one that is fairly well known, I am fairly confident in saying that the majority of Odyssey owners don't use their vans as tow vehicles.
    Ask Ford Explorer owners how they feel about their auto tranny. etc. etc.
    You don't have to tow to heat up a vehicle. If you live in the south (Ie Houston in the summer) and you get stuck in stop and go traffic your engine and tranny are going to be running very warm, do this a lot and you are going to see tranny probs.
  • redgun1redgun1 Posts: 1
    I am getting rough idle and/or engine quit when I turn the wheels sharply to either side. Dealer says something about computer update and cost $200. Whats going on. 2001YXL, 60,000 miles
  • All,

    I joined AllDataDIY.com to get the detailed info on the "Door squeak" TSB. I forked out my $25 and went searching for the the specific data I needed.

    Well guess what I found - I found out that the TSB listed by Edmunds isn't accurate. It isn't a TSB for my C1500 LT Sub but rather for the C2500, the Avalanche and others. This ticks me off because to get another report, I have to spend another $15 for an additional vehicle.

    After this episode, I called my local chevy dealer to find out that if I take it to them, it will cost about $200 per door for them to fix it :-(

    Maybe the $15 doesn't sound so bad now.

    Bo
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 41,560
    Try your local library - mine subscribes to Alldata.

    The NHTSA is another option - sometimes they have the full TSBs:

    link

    Please use the Contact us form for errors on this site. Thanks!

    Steve, Host

    Moderator
    Minivan fan. Feel free to message or email me - stever@edmunds.com.

  • stakeoutstakeout Posts: 173
    been messing around with cars since a teenager... over 40 years.. know how to check for tranny fluid levels, etc.. smell 'em.. color etc.. always up to date on maintenance.. used to do my own until I got older and smarter.. those DIY days are over..

    as far as what I stated.. I don't tow.. nada.. as in zippo.. so there's no excessive load on the tranny.. we 'baby' our vehicles.. the trannies still stink in my opinion.. and they have a tow package as do most other trucks including Tahoes and Suburbans that do tow..w/ tranny cooler etc..

    so why should they have so many problems even if towing.. you sound like the Chevy/GM service managers.. " do you tow??".. is usually the first question.. why is that... I don't have a sports car .. it's a truck supposedly made for towing.. some up to 8K #'s.. or better.. if you're not supposed to tow with it and the trannies can't handle it, let the consumer know before he shells out $40K for it so he can go to the 'other guy' and buy a real truck

    and you're still missing the point..they shouldn't 'stink' on a $40K+ truck..especially with today's so called 'better-made' vehicles.. no excuse for it..none whatsoever.. they should purrrrrrrrr...

    I can tell you I know people who have had Chevy/GMC tranny troubles as far back as the old larger sized 2 dr Blazers in the early 80's.. same stuff is still going on with the 1/2 tons..

    my question to Chevy/GMC is .. why won't they put the HD type tranny in all their Suburban trucks 1500 and 2500 series not only the 2500... I guess that's in keeping with the same reason they won't put 'LT' tires on the 1500 series and use 'P' ( passenger car) tires instead.. they don't belong on a truck.. so it's a 3/4 ton or you're out of luck ... oh well
  • Regarding aftermarket trans coolers, What recommendations can you make for one for a sub/hoe that doesn't have rubber hose connection lines. The rubber hoses I put on my 92 burb cooler got stiff, never cracked, but always worried me. If they make a stainless flex kit w/cooler that'd eliminate one worry. It would be nice if they had compression type hose fittings rather than the old "just clamp the hose to the tube" type. Any brand specific recommendations?
  • sub9904sub9904 Posts: 72
    It's not just the 1500 trannies that have had problems. At least with the newer (2000 and up) I know of several in the 2500 that have failed. Buddy had two go out with the first less than 10k miles. GM even gave him an extended warranty to 100k miles. Still got rid of it.

    As for my trannie in a 2500 96, it's smooth. Under normal acceleration you don't even feel it shift. Thank god because everything else in it has already been replaced! Including the engine which is getting pulled in another week.

    Doesn't the survey say "initial quality"? I'd like to see how it stacks up after 100k miles. How many of you Sub owners have had to replace the fuel pump after 100k miles? Mine went out at 96k. How about your a/c compressor? Mine at 120k. Water pump? 120k. Radiator? 133k. Fan clutch? 134k. Hydroboost? 135k. IM gasket? Which time? Now it's the head gasket so I'm just going to put a new engine in against my wifes advice. Another problem after the new engine goes in and I'm toast. BTW I read another Sub site and many of my problems are common with other burb owners. I'm sick of the problems but I really like my Sub. Only thing I'd get to replace it would be an Armada but that seems to have issues too.
  • stakeoutstakeout Posts: 173
    fuel pump... hmmm.. let's see..

    early last year,the fuel pump on my wife's 'burban( we have two '01 burbans) went out while we were driving down Rt 31, a 6 lane 60 mph hwy between N. Myrtle Beach and Myrtle one day not too far from the house.. somewhere under 36K miles were on it..

    I checked the fuse.. not the problem.. when I called our dealer's svc mgr from the road, he knew right away what it was... evidently it's another one of those 'regular' occurrences for Chevy.....bad fuel pump... I was driving... not nice when all of a sudden the truck stalls and you have to coast over to the right shoulder from the center lane...had AAA tow it to the dealer.. they were there in less than a half hour.. when I first tried to get Chevy's onroad service, they said their computers were 'down' and they would call me back on my cell.. I'm still waiting...AAA to the rescue.. it was repaired under warranty but still it 'ticked' me off...

    .. and I will still not mention .. cause I have so many times previously on these boards.. about the bad front ends that Chevy has on these SUV's with excessive inner tread tire wear...

    Chevy sure does make it difficult to stay with them quality-wise as both our leases are ending in the next couple of months.. for me at least I want 'my big truck'.. and no one else makes one... I'd get an Excursion.. butt.. no, not for it's bad gas mileage .. it's that hideous rear door setup with three openings I just couldn't live with... had the cargo barn doors on my old '99 burban.. I'll stick with the liftgate these days..
  • What do you all think about Stabilitrak? Make the car safer, or easier to drive?
  • lobsenzalobsenza Posts: 619
    is a wonderful feature and can help avoid accidents. I tested a vehicle with and without on a closed track one after the other. It is unbelievable how much difference stability control makes in slippery conditions.
  • billtbillt Posts: 3
    In regard to other posts about low fuel warnings, we traded an 01 for an 04. The low fuel light on the 04 goes on when we still have 7 gallons in the tank at least! With the 01 I never saw the low fuel light. I brought it to the dealer to check it out and he said the light and fuel gauge were fine. When I hit empty and refuel I can only get 23 gallons in the tank, this means there are still 7 gallons in there-this is ridiculous-I find myself having to refuel at just over 300 miles because the light is on and you are thinking you are running out of gas! My 01 could get closer to 500 mi/tank!
    I also noticed the change on the tether for the fuel cap, it is so short now that you cannot hang it on the little tab on the fuel door. I spoke wit an engineer at GM who said this was a result of a change to making the entire fuel system ethanol compatible and that they are aware of this short tether. He said they will redesign the mold for the fuel cap and correct this in the next couple of months.
  • stakeoutstakeout Posts: 173
    with all my belly-aching about some of the bad things that have occurred on both our '01 Suburbans.. went to check out a few competitors this past week or so... including the new Durango Hem-meee.. kind of disappointed in that one.. not the Hem-meeee of old ... I wrote up a test drive post on the Durango board about it.. it looks like I still need 'big' was my conclusion...
    stakeout "Dodge Durango" Mar 16, 2004 8:26pm

    anyway... with the pull-ahead program( early GMAC lease termination--no penalties just walk away like I did with my '99 Subn) ...now going on, I turned in my '01 Z71 'burban..

    and guess what I have coming in on 3/26.. a loaded-up '04 ...ta-da... Suburban... just couldn't tear myself away from the 'big guy'.. got an LT 1500 white one ... 4x4 ... Stabilitrak package.. Sun Sound etc package with DVD and Sunroof.. minus 2000 for the packages... pretty well loaded at $48700 MSRP.. got tired of the noisy tires on the Z71... got it at invoice less GM suppliers discount that the local dealer was offering as technically it came out of his stock.. also minus rebates..I did another 36 mo. lease so it was less than the 'buy' rebates... they also were running a sign and drive on the lease thru GMAC so the first payment was theirs to pick up..

    right now we're down to one truck.. my wife's '01 Suburban LT 4x4.. and that may be outta here next week.. she wants a change.. looking at the Trailblazer 4x4 LT.. it's her truck .. so it's her choice.. who knows how long it will take her to choose interior colors though.. it'll be any exterior color for her as long as it's Black that's a 'given'.. :)

    here's the sticker .. the actual vehicle.. mine.. was 'taken down' from the dealer's site after I bought it.. this is the same one but in Silver that they are getting in also...
    http://www.chevrolet.com/ws/nvlWindowSticker.cv?BAC=113988.0&- - makeId=001&year=2004&pvc=194&VIN=1GNFK16Z04J240902&am- p;am- p;dealerName=OCEAN%20CITY%20CHEVROLET&dealerAddress=2366%20OC- - EAN%20HWY%20W,%20SHALLOTTE,%20NC,%2028459-&dealerPhoneNumber=- - (910)%20754-7117&make=Chevrolet&model=Suburban&msrpPr- - ice=48,700.00&interiorColor=Leather%20Interior%20Trim,%20Tan&- amp;- amp;exteriorColor=Silver%20Birch%20Metallic%20Exterior%20Color&am- p;am- p;style=4WD,%201500

    bottom line.. no 'Hem-meeeeee'.. that kid is great in that commercial though !
  • erinsquarederinsquared Posts: 178
    I think your experience mirrors why a lot of people are repeat GM SUV buyers; there is a lot of value in these trucks, although they are far from perfect. I think the biggest shortcoming lies in the lack of the refinement people expect in a $40-50k vehicle. As for your lead foot and old musclecar experiences, I am surprised you did not opt for a Denali XL. Unless you absolutely must have the low range on your Sub, the Denali gives you that low end torque pull that you desire. Since you optioned out the Sub, it would not have been that big a step up to the Denali. Driving a loaded Yukon and Denali back-to-back will show you a significant difference in ride experience that is not evident by the numbers alone (5.3L ~285 hp vs. 6.0L ~320hp). I am no stranger to torquey big blocks ('69 Goat in my stable) and I find the driving experience of my shorty Denali extremely satisfying (with 16 MPG average on low octane fuel to boot). Its no rocket at 5500lbs. and AWD eliminates wheel chirp or burnouts, but it will run!
  • We have a 2001 Suburban 4x4 LS. 57k trouble free miles. My wife hit a deer and required a dimmer light to be replaced, and I also asked the dealer to inspect the brakes -- we have been taking the car to jiffy lube for its entire life and JL doesn't do brakes.

    The service manager calls with the following recommendations:

    1. flush brake fluid
    2. flush power steering fluid
    3. flush transfer case fluid
    4. flush transmission fluid
    5. flush fuel distribution system
    6. change PCV

    The total for all these flushes is almost $800. Some of them are never mentioned in the maintenance recommendations (power steering fluid, for example). I asked the service manager "How did you come to these recommendations -- I only needed the dimmer light replaced and the brakes inspected?" He said "We were just making some checks for you. We found that these fluids were dirty". I asked "how do you know?" He said "we put our finger in".

    Well town hall: Do I need to flush all these fluids? We have had ZERO problems with this car.

    thanks!
  • davids1davids1 Posts: 411
    If you haven't flushed the tranny I would do that at a minimum. The others sound like a money making ploy. I would take the truck to a reputable independent tranny shop and have them flush/change filter/replace fluid. Likely will be cheaper than the dealer.
Sign In or Register to comment.