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GMC Yukon XL and Yukon XL Denali

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  • jonrossjonross Posts: 2
    Guys,
    I just signed up to this site, and I have the same exact problem with my 2003 XL Denali. Sometimes the wipers work fine, and then all of a sudden they will run on low speed when I clean the windows or put them on intermittent. I found a place to buy just the motor cover with the circuit board built in for $71 and am going to buy it and try that first. I'll let you guys know how it turns out.
    Here's the link: http://198.208.187.182/internet/PartImage.jsp?mfgname=ACDELCO&prodlinecd=8&acpar- tnbr=88958136

    The website is Rockauto.com
  • We turn the key and dash lights up, gauges move, chime sounds, etc. Everything normal but starter does nothing. Sometimes happens a couple times in a day, sometimes goes weeks without a problem. It will eventually start when it wants to. Nothing we do consistently causes it to start. Shifting in and out of drive/neutral/park, trying different key, and just about anything else does not help. Eventually we get lucky and it will just start. Sometimes it takes two or three key turns, and sometimes we fight with it for a 45 minutes to get it to start. It's been to the dealer a couple of times but they say they can't fix it unless it does it while they have it, and just our luck, it works fine while they have it. The dealer has checked everything they can think of and there are no diagnostic codes. Any ideas???
  • I also have a 2005 Yukon Denali and I have the exact same problem you are describing. Have you had any luck with a solution?
  • rshtrsht Posts: 277
    Have you checked the ignition switch, and the mechanism between the key cylinder to the switch?
  • There is a known problem with the circuit board that is on the end of the wiper motor. It just decides to work intermittently. The only solution I have found so far is to go to Rockauto.com and you can get just the end end cap of the wiper motor which contains the circuit board for about $70. I haven't had a chance to do it yet but it should be easy if you do it yourself.
  • The ignition switch is certainly a good start but also check the Body Control Module. I have had some recent problems with instrument panel lighting and it has come back that this module controls a lot of functions. It seems to be the PCM of the multifunction array of controls , switches, etc.. Also for you and anyone else there is a fella goes by the name of "Blue Gorilla" on JustAnswer.com where I have gotten some terrific help
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 40,864
    I don't get that site. I get great answers all over the net for free on forums like this one. Plus there's Edmunds Answers as well for car questions that attracts a different crowd than forum users.

    I also don't get people paying for Consumer Reports to give them invoice prices when all that info is here free too. :confuse:

    Moderator
    Need help navigating? stever@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • I had the same problem and my mechanic got the Windshield Motor cover with the circuit board from the dealer. It cost more, about $150.00, but time was of the essence. It was a rainy week. Got it installed and everything ran about $205.00.
  • Considering an '09 Denali purchase and noticed that the AWD transmission does not come with a 4 wheel low gear type option as the other yukon and tahoe models. Am I correct in this or am I missing something. I've found myself needing the 4 low option a few times a year in deep snow. Does the Denali AWD system automatically gear down when added traction is needed or should I be looking at another vehicle?
  • Here In Canada 2500+tax 13%
    Unfurtunatly i had my 01 denali towed in today because my trany is gone..but hey s...happens i still love my denali regardles what happened today :) (Until now served me good) :sick:
  • I have a 2001 YUKON Xl. I am hearing a cllicking in the right rear. I pulled back the plastic and there is a silver box with 3 plugs in it. When I remove the first one the clicking stops but I have no idea what that controls so I plugged it back in.

    any idea what that stuff is for?

    Thank you,

    Jamie
  • rkg1rkg1 Posts: 13
    Our 2003 Yukon XL center row, middle seat seatbelt (over the shoulder/lap belt combo) frequently locks up. When it does, we are unable to use it. Our only option has been bringing it into the dealer to fix.

    Anyone have any suggestions on how we can fix it ourselves or to prevent it from happening???
  • rshtrsht Posts: 277
    The on board computer/sensors for the AWD system keep the vehicle moving froward via the wheel(s) with traction without the need for manual intervention; a combination of this system and the manual shift mode (although some call it the Tow-Haul mode) to keep the transmission in low gear on your Denali's shifter (i.e. M1, M2...), would that achieve what you need?
    Personally, I would prefer the AWD system on the Denali over those on the Yukon/Tahoe with manual switch/mode, although you have the ability to select which mode to drive in, no way that will respond faster than of the AWD system; especially if don't do any off-road driving. But, if you were actually thinking of a Locking Differential to work with the 4x4 Low Gear for off-road conditions, then you YES the AWD system may not be what you want... I am no sale person, I live pretty far North of Illinois, so far my 07 Denali has not disappointed once in deep snow conditions, I am glad that I have the Denali over the Yukon/Tahoe. I hope you would too soon.
    Best Wish!
  • My yukon xl slt is a 2003 model and now has 128,000 miles. My wife has suggested several times that I replace it as it was her primary driver for 5 years and after 3 Yukon/Suburbans she decided to take over driving our newest car. I've preferred driving the truck for many years so I jumped at the chance to drive the Yukon whenever I liked. My daily drive is 65 miles RT so I need dependable transportation and the Yukon has been a great choice. The vehicle was bought new here in the Metroplex and we've done the maintenance on it every 3500 miles. New tires/hoses/belts whenever needed. Problems began after the odometer passed 100k miles. First, it was the transmission @100k that needed replacing. Next, the brakes finally needed replacement at 120k miles, and then came a low level vibrating humming noise from the drive train while decelerating. After several weeks, I took it to my local Firestone store where they declared the problem to be wheel bearings (replaced), then water pump (replaced) and $1200 later, the humming noise was still there. Frustrated, I took it back to them and they now said that the problem was the U joints which they offered to fix for a 50% discount. That did fix the problem and I'm now back to being a happy Yukon driver. As I mentioned earlier, this is my 3rd yukon and I don't want to replace it until it is a little older. What kinds of problems should I anticipate up to 200k? Anyone, have experiences they are willing to share?
  • I ran my 2003 Yukon XL 2500 8.1L w 58000 miles completely out of gas but when I put gas back in it I could not get it started. I had the fuel filter replaced and it still would not start. I am being told that my fuel pump is out but there are issues with this. Any time I call to get a price on the fuel pump they ask me if it is the rear or front tank? as far as I knew I only have one very large tank 37.5 gallons. So how do I know which tank if I do have a rear and front? The next question is I am hoping it is not the pump because the truck ran fine before, is there anything else it could be that is cheaper? I am really anxious to get some advise on this issue. I am a single women and I have a boat I need to tow along with a trailer and quads plus I am moving and need my truck for moving so this is something I need to get fixed asap. I would really appreciate any input. thank you :cry:
  • I have the same truck with a 8.1 496 motor, which I would have known you were looking, this truck would have been perfect for you. The only problem I did have was the ac went out and I only have 58000 miles on my truck. so I spent the $1500 and had a new ac unit installed. I am not sure if your ac in not blowing cold but if that is the case most likely the unit is going bad. When mine went out the air got warmer and warmer.
  • Does anyone know how to remove the front turn signal housing. Mine is getting water into it and burning out the bulbs. It has also corroded the lamp holder. I can replace the pig tail but would like to repair the housing so that it won;t let water in. Thanks
  • 4burb4burb Posts: 55
    I have a 2002 suburban and though the fronts are a little different it may work about the same but not sure. That being said, on the sub the light assembly just pulls forward and out. No need to open hood or unscrew anything. I just grab it securely on the outside end and pull. It pulls loose from a clip and then slides out of the inner side. Pop out the bulb, replace and reverse removal.
    Hope it helps...
  • bchez2010bchez2010 Posts: 1
    Hello...I'm with out answers myself. Picked up my daughter for softball practice opened the back door truck was loaded. She forgot her helmet so instead of opening the whole door we opened the top hatch (glass) and yep the hinge came a part on the right side where the glass is attached. Actually it's barely holding on right now. We have no clue what to do. I've found one GM recall for my year and make model 2003, it states specifically in the recall notice it's for hinges on the left door. Surely this is a factory defect. You can actually see the metal pulling/ripping away from the body of the vehicle. That's not normal when you don't use the door on a daily basis. Did you get anywhere with the dealer or find a solution. I have been searching and have not found anything. We had a friend who is a welder take a look at the issue and he stated that we should take it into the dealer and have them take a look at it that's not normal. He even stated that it's very dangerous that until we get it fixed to not have the windows open in the front because it will create pressure and it will pop the window out in back. Great that's all I need. :confuse:
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,109
    Hello Bchez2010,
    I am from GM Customer Service. You had stated that you found a recall; if the recall pertains your vehicle then the dealership will fix it for free. I can check for you if you do have a recall on your vehicle or not. Please email me so I can look into this situation further. You can get my email by clicking on my name. Thank you,
    Mariah GM Customer Service
  • dissapointed11dissapointed11 Posts: 1
    edited June 2010
    Hi I am having the same problem with my 2002 yukon the right plastic that holds the hinge just cracked I cannot beleive the rear glass is only held on the car with plastic I called around and the only way to fix it is to replace the whole thing and for $800.00 I called gmc and they told me I have to take it in to service and that would be $108.00 then what if its not covered or not deemed to be a defect I will have to fix it for the $800.00 There is a deffinate problem with the part How can a window be held on with plastic that can just crack if you could help it would be very nice
    I love my yukon but gmc shold do good faith repairs since this is a problem :mad: :(
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,109
    Hello Dissapointed11,
    It looks like you have already spoken to our customer assistance team and what they told you would be correct. We would need you to get your vehicle into the dealer for diagnosis before anything can be considered. Could you please private message me your case number from the agent you spoke to so I can take a look at it? You can get my email by clicking on my name. Thank you,
    Mariah GM Customer Service
  • mslimanmsliman Posts: 4
    I read you post on Edmunds reguardnig the dead battery problem on your 2003 suburban. Do you recall which relay was replaced. I am having a similar problem with my 2005 GMC Yukon XL
  • mag44mag44 Posts: 32
    I had an issue with my rear levelers shocks on a 2002 GMC Denali XL, replaced them and they are working great. I am still getting the "Service Suspension" error message on the dash. Hooked up the code reader and there are no errors displayed. Anyone have any ideas on how to clear the Message Center display?

    Thanks in advance.
  • mmorris414mmorris414 Posts: 2
    edited June 2010
    I was driving my 2006 Yukon XL and the "Service Stability" message came on (for a split second) then disappeared. It never came on again while driving home. I am going on a long trip in 3 day., Is this something I should worry about? Can it wait until I return from my trip? What does this error message mean? I have never seen it before in ANY car I have ever owned. Please, any response would help out....
    Thank you in advance.
  • try stepping on the brake 3 times quickly (don't start the engine but have the ignition on so everything else is working) See if that works, good luck!
  • I own a 2003 Yukon XL Denhali it has 102,000 miles on it and just this passed oil change in a matter of 6000 miles it burned through 4 Quarts of oil. It is not leaving any spots in my garage. it not smoking at all. the tail pipe has black soot in it. But it is running great. What could be the cause of burning oil?
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,109
    Hello Mmorris414,
    You can do what Mag44 suggested in resetting the error message. If you still are leery about your trip you can take it in and have the code read to see if there is anything that needs servicing before you leave. Thank you,
    Mariah GM Customer Service
  • Just returned home from local mechanic, and he said that the issue might be the fuel pump, however, I had that replaced 18 months ago. They replaced the fuel filter, and tested, still the same. So now my fuel mileage is @ 6.8 mpg. They also replaced some of the O2 sensors. Any ideas on what it could be.

    Appreciate your time in this matter.
  • leverett6leverett6 Posts: 1
    edited July 2010
    We have a 2000 Yukon and when it is hot out side it will not crank on the first try, then the second try I have to push the gas peddle all the way to the floor then it will crank, but at that time i have to continue to hold the gas in or it want idle, but when it is cold it does not do this, sounds alot like the same problem that you were having. Did you find the source to the problem?
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