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GMC Yukon XL and Yukon XL Denali



  • squadmansquadman Posts: 4
    Let's see, where do i begin? Oh yeah, I've been deployed away from my family and in harm's way defending our way of life for the past 20 years. Some of my comrades will never return to their loved ones and two of you have the gall to complain about a measily $750 rebate from a mega-corporation? Next time you watch TV from the comfort of your home, think of what our troops are doing in such garden spots as Kuwait, Iraq, Somalia, Korea, get the picture. Those like you who have only served their own self interests will never know how blessed we are in this great country. You've a problem with $750...give me a break.
  • fclspatfclspat Posts: 61
    you are 100% correct. military folk are our most valuable asset. IMO $750 is a slap in the face. They should sell to the military at the employee rate.
  • joebasjoebas Posts: 20
    and I also say Thank you........
  • palsauspalsaus Posts: 4
    Shieatt, Thanks for all of your information. Got my rebate and your points for the factory DVD made a lot of sense. Happy trails.
  • 13B, many thanks for the input.

    I bought the YXL today. SLE with towing, buckets, sunroof, adj. pedals, premium sound.
    It was 9,578.00 off sticker. Doesn't have OnStar so I wasn't eligible for that rebate.
    It's Carbon/Grey. I love it, and no running boards, hurray!
  • squadmansquadman Posts: 4
    I'm back and have settled down since I took a hit from the anti-military dudes. Need some feedback from you Suburban Pro's out there!

    I've wangle a deal for 03 LT w/DVD, trailering, cargo pkg, liftgate, skid plates & lock diff.

    MSRP=46584; Inv=40659. The dealer's offer (w/discounts--$3500 cash, $750 mil, $695 OnStar, $500 Conquest)= $38,096.
    After doing my math and figuring his invoice minus holdback, I'm going to offer $36,900.

    Am I on the right path or too stingy?
  • squadmansquadman Posts: 4
    By the way, I'd like to thank fclspat & joebas for showing support for the military. Those words of thanks and encouragement really mean a lot to us service folk. We're just like the rest of you, except that our lives have been devoted to our country: whether it's for three years or thirty years.

    God Bless America!
  • squadmansquadman Posts: 4

    what is the GM card cash? I applaud your ability to get $8100 below invoice...with all of the stuff I know (discounts, holdback, bogus fees), i can only legitimately get down to $4500 below invoice!

    Let's hear your tips!!
  • The rear door locks on my brand new Yukon XL will not operate automatically, just manually.
    I thought for sure this had something to do with the child lock feature, and or the preferences in the Driver Info Center, but I can't figure anything out.
    I hate to put it in the shop already. Has anybody else had this problem?
  • kawazar1kawazar1 Posts: 10
    I have a 1994 Suburban that I purchased from a family friend. They thought they would be nice and have a couple of things touched up on it before we bought it. The shop repainted the trailer hitch and painted over the factory sticker with the weight rating. Could someone look at their hitch for me and give me the weright ratings on the label? My wife and I are thinking about purchasing a camper. They told me it is the factory hitch. Also did the Sub. come with different size hitches? Because this one is rather large. The truck is a K1500 and from what I could make out the door sticker shows about 7000 to 7500 GVWR.
  • beatfarmerbeatfarmer Posts: 244
    The rating on the factory hitch far outclasses what you can actually tow. IIRC, the stated tow capacity for a K1500 is 6K assuming you have the 3.73 rear. But this max is for a bone stock K1500 with just a driver-no passengers or cargo. So, when you go shopping for a camper, look seriously at the weights (not the wishful thinking they put in their brochures, look at a real model equipped with options). Pop-ups and hybrids aren't a problem, but look at travel trailers with a weight around 4K-4.5K with options.
    Also, replace the rear diff fluid with a good synth fluid.
    Happy Camper Hunting
  • kawazar1kawazar1 Posts: 10
    Thanks for the help! We were actually looking at the hybrids but my wife wants something bigger like around 25ft or more. A friend just bought a 25 or 26ft that only weighs 3800 lbs. He tows that with his Toyota Tacoma. Which I think is a bit much for that truck. Does anyone think I should add a trany cooler asside from the one that runs thru the radiator?
  • 13b13b Posts: 7
    GM card cash is cash earned towards purchase of a new GM vehicle. Five percent of charges from a GM Mastercard are added to this account. In may case, I could earn up to $500 per year for a max of seven years. You keep earning past 7 years but only last seven years count up to $3500. I had $3150 in my account plus a $200 promotion that I used. Few years ago GM changed the rules to remove the $500 per year cap, however imposed total maximums depending on vehicle. I opted to stay with old rules. That's best I can remember. See for more details.
  • 03tahoe03tahoe Posts: 83
    I see a couple things in the wiring diagram that could be your problem:
    2.In the "Instrument Panel Fuse Block" there is a
      Rear Door Lock Relay and a rear door unlock relay.
      Switch them to see if your trouble clears. Be gentle and see if
      those relays just plug in. I think they do.
    3.There is a "Door Lock Actuator" which may have
      gone south. They do show up on the wiring
      diagram as having a circuit breaker which could
      also be defective.
    1.There is a 20 amp fuse for locks in the I.P. fuse panel but if this
      were blown both functions would be dead. If you can`t lock and can`t unlock this should be your trouble, unless you have bad wiring or connectors. With trucks there are chances for several things to cause a end trouble. Hope this helps.
  • 03tahoe03tahoe Posts: 83
    As stated above, my #1 solution for the failure of your rear doors to operate automatically would be a blown or defective "DOOR LOCK" 20 Amp Fuse.
    There are two Yellow 20 Amp fuses located side by side in your Instrument Panel Fuse Block. The "DOOR LOCK" fuse is the one closest to the outside edge of your fuse block. Just about all auto parts stores will have these fuses in stock but there may well be a spare in your fuse block. Just check the diagram on your fuse block cover.

    The "Instrument Panel Fuse Block" is located near the drivers door at the left hand edge of your Instrument Panel. You will notice a mark at the bottom forward edge of the panel where light outward finger pressure will cause the panel to pull off.
    Hope this helps. Please advise.
  • I have pretty much set my mind on getting a new LT Suburban. I am not trading anything in and am going to choose the 0% finance option. The vehicle I am wanting has a MSRP of $46,209 and an Invoice Price of $41,348. Right now the dealer is saying that his best price out the door is $39,500. Is this a pretty fair price or can I do better? I have talked to about three other dealers on identically equiped vehicles and no one else will beat this price. Thanks for your replies.
  • hawk248hawk248 Posts: 27
    I own a 2 Dr. 96 Tahoe w/ over 120K miles and 5.7 4X4 engine. I took a Denali XL and Yukon XL for a 24 Hr test drive on two consecutive days.

    Both are fine vehicles and drive fantastic. But I was surprised about the mileage I got. On a full tank, Yukon XL had burned 1/4 of the tank for about 100 mile Hwy + City driving. DXL seemed little better for the same type of driving - a little over 1/8th of the tank.

    But I got the best mileage on my old Tahoe - less than 1/8th of the tank. My 96 Tahoe consistenly gives 18 miles/gallon on City+Hwy driving, and since the last tune-up, I think I am close to 20 mpg.

    I realize that the size of tank has a lot to do with how far the guage moves. I am deciding whether to buy a DXL or YXL. Does any one know more realistic mileage difference between the two? It seems that YXL w/ 5.3 should do better than a 6.0L DXL, plus the weight difference in favor of YXL.
  • shieattshieatt Posts: 75
    realmccoy1 - It sounds like you are getting a very good price... I don't think you can ask for much more than invoice minus available rebates combined with 0% financing. Those are the terms on which we just bought our Suburban. The only profit the dealer is making at that point is the holdback money GM gives the dealer to help finance the vehicle while on the lot - which isn't all that much. I would go for it - I don't think you'll do any better.
  • glsableglsable Posts: 77
    Around here on a high-option LT you can get $7000 off MSRP, plus you get all the GM rebates that you qualify for ($3500 rebate + $750 mil + $695 Onstar + $500 conquest + $500 recent grad ...). All together that totals $11,945 off MSRP.
  • glsableglsable Posts: 77
    squadman: I didn't mean to get you all tweaked, but re-reading my post I wasn't very specific. My comment wasn't aimed at those who were actually in combat (or those that have family members who were in combat, as it is certainly just as hard on them). Anyone that has been in Agfghanistan and/or Iraq and/or [fill in the blank] you deserve my thanks and a lot better than $750.
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