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GMC Yukon XL and Yukon XL Denali

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  • balserbalser Posts: 90
    I had a 100k GM extended warranty on my '95 burb. The truck had about 25k on it when I bought it and I figure I broke even since I paid less than retail on the warranty. We didn't get one on my wife's '96. The only major repair was a broken snap ring in the transfer case, which tore the whole thing up. GM picked up the parts, charged me for labor (fair enough in my mind). Had I bought an extended warranty, I probably would have broken even again.

    Our 2000 burb has a 100k zero deductible warranty (the dealership screwed up - we paid for a $100 deductible, but the cards came through at zero!). I got it on the 2000 because it was the first year of the redesign.

    You can deal on the warranty price if you buy it as part of the deal. If memory serves me right, I think the dealer profit is in the neighborhood of 50%. Call around.

    Just make sure the dealer doesn't try to pull what one did to me. I insisted on a GM warranty (convenience and security), but when we went to sign they gave me some off-brand. When I refused to sign, they gave me the GM warranty for the agreed price. They're the ones that sent the contract through as a zero deductible, so I guess they got what they deserved.
  • Can anyone help me? I am looking for the best price I can expect to pay for a 2001 or 2002 (specify which) Suburban LT 4x4. I am in the Chicago (NW burbs) area. Please email me at fredmcintire@freeze.com

    Thanks,
    Fred
  • brown31brown31 Posts: 10
    Has anyone heard of any changes or seen any spy photos of the 2003 Yukon XL and XL Denalis? (I saw one of the Tahoe.)

    Thanks,
    Jim
  • robz3robz3 Posts: 28
    Thanks for your responses to my questions. I had another one.

    We had to have our dealer do a swap with another for the XL with second row captains chairs. So we didn't know exactly how it would be. The XL came today and my wife had to some paperwork at the dealer so she sat in it and she found one of the captains chairs to be a little uncomfotable. She described it as there being a softball in the seat bottom. She told the salesman and he didn't think there was a problem. I was going to go in tomorrow to check it out. I had already signed the buy order sheet before it arrived (bad move on my part) so I guess we are stuck.

    Does anyone else have this problem? What should the dealer be expected to do in this case?

    I should have gotten the Denali......
  • jgmilbergjgmilberg Posts: 872
    That truck belongs to the dealer until you sign the title paper work, and take the keys. If she meant at the bottom of the seat back it is possible that the lumbar was all the way out, that's what it feels like. It can be adjusted to each person's liking. It might also just be something stuck under the seat.

    If it is a seat problem I would not take possession of it until they replace the seat. Try a few others on the lot, if there are no others try the full size pickup, just make sure the seat is the same. They can swap out a seat from another truck if they have one the same type and color, otherwise it will need to be ordered and that may take as long as 2 weeks.

    If you are really into bells and whistles the Denali XL is the way to go, but with the frills comes a price tag to match, roughly 5 grand more. The extra features are really nice , the heated rear seats, steering wheel radio controls, auto climate control, 6 disc cd changer, Bose stereo, trip computer, all wheel drive, 6.0L engine, autoride, black cherry "wood" trim. It is truly a luxury ride indeed, but if you are on a budget the YXL might fit your wallet better.
  • My mileage is getting to the point I am getting ready to replace tires and shocks....tires I got handled as I have been running 18" Michelin Pilots.....what is a good upgrade on shocks???
    Thanks in advance....
  • rpirpi Posts: 7
    My 2001 XL 1500 has developed a driveline whine at 50mph. The whine appears to be comming from the front diff. but I am not sure. The noise is not apparent below or above 50mph. It is not tire or wind noise as the dealer has suggested. They were able to road test and hear the whine but have no explanation or fix. Has anyone encounterd such a problem?

    I also hear a knocking sound at idle after longer highway trips. It sounds like a tapping sound, almost like a loose bearing in an alternator. Dealer has heard the sound and has eliminated the possibility of valve chatter or engine related source, but has no fix. Maybe I need a new dealer.Any insight by other owners who may be experiencing similar problems. ?? Thanks in advance.
  • I have a 2000 suburban that from the very beginning has had the irritating habit of turning on the headlights whenever it gets even a little overcast. I have been told there are no adjustments. Anyone have an idea on how to adjust or defeat this without deactivating the DRL with the 4 pushes on the magic button? Thanks in advance!!
  • pat32pat32 Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Suburban LT with the automatic temperature control. Several times now with it in auto mode the A/C light will go out and the A/C stops working. Going into manual doesn't allow the A/C to come back on. Also going to manual and back to auto does not fix it either. After pushing the button, it flashes 3 times, which the owners manual says you cannot do that in the current mode. Then about 10 minutes later or it seems like when you go over 40 mph, if left in auto, the A/C light comes back on and blows cold air. Seems like an control problem. The dealer cannot seem to repeat this. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.
  • gillkgillk Posts: 1
    I am picking up a new 2001 Suburban LT in the morning and am wondering if the rear seat radio controls can be added to the console, fairly easily. For whatever reason, this one doesn't have them. I mean does anyone know if its just plug and play or?? The dealer promised to provide the necessary parts at cost if the job is possible w/o replacing the radio or console. Thanks in advance.
  • robz3robz3 Posts: 28
    Took delivery. It looks like a beast in my garage!

    Got it in pewter/pewter, a pretty standard but nice looking color scheme which should be fairly easy to keep clean in the winter.

    One question. I hadn't realized how "supportive" the drivers seat is. I am used to fairly flat seats but this one has a lot of contour and even with the power lumbar support at it's lowest setting there is still a bit too much lumbar support for me. Do these seats break-in or get softer or more comfortable over time?

    I'm fearing I made a mistake getting this SUV now. Mayber I just need more time to get used to it. I really do enjoy the extra room though for the family trips.
  • jgmilbergjgmilberg Posts: 872
    Do you have the full feature bucket with heat? If so have you tried retracting the side bolsters? There are 2 things controlled by the round button. If you push it in at the bottom it pulls in the the sides, and pushing it at the back will pull in the lumber, vice verca for the sides/lumbar. This is really what your problem sounds like. Check it out and get back with us. How do you like the stereo?

    The seats in mine are still like the new ones, I have 14K miles on my 2001 now, and haven't noticed any change. My friend got a new Tahoe last week and the seats feel just like mine.

    It's called buyers remorse, after you get the first 500 miles on it you will never wonder if it was a mistake or not again. You made the right choice, trust us.
  • robz3robz3 Posts: 28
    I messed around a lot with the seat and retracted all the lumbar, side and center, with mixed results. I do like the seats better than the Suburban because the one in there put my left foot to sleep. Must be something about the way it's stitched. Also I was not happy about the seat bottom in the burb.

    I'll give it a while but right now I am wondering if I didn't make a $40,000 mistake! I guess I just have to get used to it. It's new and unfamiliar so the mind and body needs to adjust.

    The stereo blows. I'm going to try that upgrade that I've seen on the Tahoe message board to remove the factory "deamplifier" and add my own amp. Also, I have a JL 8" speaker from my previous GTP that I will try to replace the 8" sub in the YXL with.
    And I will put component speakers in the front. I'll try Inifinity's or Alpine.

    I'd replace the head unit but I understand the OnStar is hooked to it and won't work without it. Maybe after the year service is up I'll replace it.

    The only thing I wish this YXL had was a trip computer with MPG and DTE.
  • jgmilbergjgmilberg Posts: 872
    If you go with components for the front get the Denali A-Pillars, they have speakers integrated into them. It will look more like a factory install. Some audio shops can hack into the wiring to make the on star work with a separate amplified speaker but it won't kill the stereo like the factory one does.
  • I have not followed this forum since Dec '00, but at that time (I hope this is the correct forum) a small number of us were complaining that a cold blast of air was coming into the cabin by the front passengers' feet. My dealer 1) tried to say it wasn't so, 2) then said yes others had complained too 3) said that altho GMC has no TSB they (dealer) would install a deflector which helped a little. At most recent visit to dealer this week they said GM now has a fix and parts will be in next week. I am scheduled to have the fix put in. I do not know the TSB#, but will try to get it if there is still interest on this board.
  • brown31brown31 Posts: 10
    I've heard Quaker State oil is not a good oil. I've heard it contains a lot of parrafin and can gum up your engine.

    Does anyone have any insight on this? My dealer will give free oil changes on our Denali, but they use Quaker State oil.

    Thanks,
    Bill
  • munchomuncho Posts: 14
    We have had a new YXL for a week now. We are very pleased with it. Only problem is that the HVAC system in front keeps blowing air at a low level even when knob is set to "off." We can control the temp of this air, so it doesn't seem like the same "cold air" problem that so many have discussed on this forum. We asked the dealer about it assuming it was something that could be adjusted, but he said that it is normal. Something about keeping some air moving in the vehicle. Is this normal? Just checking to make sure the dealer is being straight with us.

    The only other issue is that the front panel gets quite hot in a small spot near the headlight controls. Seems like something that might eventually lead to something burning out back there. Dealer says it is a common issue and that there is no fix for it, but that nothing ever burns out as a result. They will change the portion of the panel that is getting hot "for customer satisfaction" but that it won't fix the heat issue.

    Any comments are appreciated so we can know whether we should follow up on these issues or not.
  • gpvsgpvs Posts: 214
    Is the button set to recirc air or fresh air? Could just be that. Just guessing.
  • andyl2andyl2 Posts: 84
    The recirc button will force the A/C conpressor to be on, I think. GM designed the vehicles so that there will be a minimal amount of fresh air flow at all times. This is to prevent stale air and pollution from building up in the vehicle.
  • b4zb4z Posts: 3,372
    All GM vehicles have "flow through ventilation"
    meaning that there is always air moving through the vehicle. Like you said, you can control the temp of the air.
  • b4zb4z Posts: 3,372
    There are better oils out there. I have read that Quaker State emulsifies quicker than other dino oils.
    I have found that quaker state does not take heat well and the oil pressure in my car drops after a couple of thousand miles.
    I use Valvoline HD racing and have no oil pressure problems. You can buy it anywhere and it is fairly cheap.
  • don4341don4341 Posts: 69
    Irv. responding for Don:
    The heat is normal since the light diming rehostat is simply a big adjustable resistor which must absorb all of the power as you dim the dash area lights.
    It`s just a state of the art thing = a low cost way to drop voltage to the dash lights.
    As you know, to the General cost is everything. About ten others have complained about this high heat problem. Been around for a long time. At a bright dash light point you will notice less heat - after the resistor cools down.
    Irv.
  • I have a 2001 Yukon. It is about a year old. I noticed the rear door weatherstrip is almost worn through where the front top corner of the door rubs across as the door is shut. It appears that the front top edge of each rear door is bent down. Maybe this is a fix for a design flaw that is over compensating to prevent a water leak that would develop with time???? I lubed it up really well last week after a wash and now it already has what looks like pencil eraser smudge all down the door jam.....Anybody else noticed this??? Had it repaired??? Thanks
  • jgmilbergjgmilberg Posts: 872
    Check post 1580 for the info the number is 01-01-37-008. It cut off part of the end so if you need the whole thing email me.

    gonefishin the email address in your profile might have something wrong with it, I tried to send you the TSB in it's entirety and it got kicked back to me undeliverable. Just an FYI.
  • eman5eman5 Posts: 110
    Does anyone know if and when GMC/Chevrolet will put 1) all-wheel steering, 2) third-row doors, and 3) (please bring these back!) 42-gallon gas tanks in these vehicles?
  • jgmilbergjgmilberg Posts: 872
    The closest you will probably get in any of the new trucks is going to be 38.5 Gal. and to get that you have to get a 2500 series. 4 Wheel steering is rumored to be coming on the Denali and Denali XL in 04 or 05. Third row doors?!!! Come on why not just have a fold down side, the whole side for the passengers with pop out steps, no doors at all. You need structural stability and three doors on either side are not going to work for that reason. Third row doors are going to be a pipe dream, besides the tire is in the way, would you rather climb over a seat or get the kids all dirty from climbing on the tire to get into the back?
  • campo57campo57 Posts: 94
    Well, they're putting all wheel steering in the new 2002 Sierra Denali (old C3) and I wouldn't hold my breath waiting for that 42 gal tank.

    Campo57
  • robz3robz3 Posts: 28
    What would you go with? GM or Lund? Heard good things about Lund and was looking at their Trident Wrap model for $68. Don't know how much the GM goes. I figure that you can't go too wrong with the GM though.
  • brown31brown31 Posts: 10
    I'm waiting on an '02 Denali XL. Is Castrol one of the best motor oils to use in it? (I'm looking for non-synthetic.)

    Is Havoline good, too? (I've heard Quaker State, Pennzoil and Valvoline are not good.)

    Thanks for any help,
    Bill
  • b4zb4z Posts: 3,372
    Uhhhh. Did you read my post #1672?
    I guess maybe someone else should give their experiences with oil.
    Like i said, Valvoline Racing works best for me. This is in a 1987 IROC that has 202,000 miles.
    This car has been driven hard and runs hot by design.
    I tried Castrol, and Valvoline holds up better.
    JMHO.
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