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GMC Yukon XL and Yukon XL Denali



  • bim1bim1 Posts: 5
    I was able to replace the filters last night with the help from your picture. Boy the screw by the center console was such a pain to put back. Without your picture, I probably would not have guessed that there is a screw at that location. After 17,000 miles, the filters were dirty!!! Thanks again.

  • fst1fst1 L.A. Posts: 13
    Just wanted to let you guys know that I have just posted a picture of what looks to be the 2003 Tahoe in my Future Telling section of As with all spy pictures, this is only speculation, but the highly finished look and its resemblance to the already released Avalanche's front end make me think that this is headed for production.

    To find Future Telling, go to the "Reviews" section, scroll down and look to the bottom right. Click "Go" and it will take you to the intro page that contains the Tahoe as well as other spy pictures.

    Best regards,

    Ed Hellwig
    Road Test Editor-
  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    your welcome

    I actually broke that screw in my truck still havent fixed it yet (that was 5K miles ago)

    Glad it worked for ya

  • drew_drew_ Posts: 3,382
    Here is the direct link to the Future Telling page:

    Vans, SUVs, and Aftermarket & Accessories message boards
  • I am checking prices on a replacement roof mounted brake light for my '97 Chevy Sub. Dealer says that there are no "bulb(s)" to replace, must buy a whole new unit for $150. Sure would appreciate any suggestions or ideas on a lower price/remedy.
  • The 3rd brake light is a LED unit with no replaceable bulbs in it. I would first check for a ddefective switch to the light. Pull the light off and disconnect it and have some one hit the brakes while you test it with a test light or volt meter. If it is in fact burned out then a replacement will be nessessary. It may be a long shot but try some collision shops, they have access to aftermarket replacement parts like that, and will definitly be cheaper than the dealer.
  • robz3robz3 Posts: 28
    1) Looking at getting captains chairs. Any bad comments? Will be using the car to make several long trips (6 hour each way) a year and will have baby in second row and removing third row seats to carry two dogs.

    2) Want to get a bakup sensor to avoid hitting cars while parking. Any recommendations for brand?

    3) Any good stereo upgrades? I understand that Onstar is part of the stereo system but I would really like to add better speakers/amplification.

    4) Extended warranty. Worth it? Does it have to be bought at time of purchase?

    5) Any regrets in buying one of these?

    Though I'm not fond of driving such a massive beast I do need something big for the family for the trips and a wanted something more comfortable than a minivan. I went with the XL because the seats were better than the Suburban and the one in the Suburban made my left foot fall asleep after 10 minutes. Bummer!

  • The Bridgestone Duelers are indeed a premium tire. They have Uni-T and when the surface tread wears off, it uncovers a softer rubber. They are quiet, but they don't last that long, although they stay good right up to the end of the tread unlike, in my experience, the Michelin LTX.
  • drew_drew_ Posts: 3,382
    For more information about reverse warning systems, please have a look at the existing Reverse warning systems discussion topic in the Aftermarket & Accessories message board.

    Vans, SUVs, and Aftermarket & Accessories message boards
  • jgmilbergjgmilberg Posts: 872
    To answer a few questions with my opinion, keep in mind that different people have different tastes and needs to fill.

    I have a built to order 2001 3/4 Yukon XL 6.0L, in Indigo Blue with light gray leather interior. I ordered everything except the second row buckets, 4:10 rear end, and 8.1L engine.

    Second row buckets are cool for those with kids or dogs, it keeps them from climbing over the seat to get into the 3rd row or into the back of the truck. I like the bench, for 2 reasons, it is really only comfortable for 2 people, so the center folding armrest/cup holder works out great, and secondly when you fold the seats flat to haul cargo the buckets leave an empty spot between the seats, and if you are getting something like 2 X 4's it will make it hard to stack them in there with out messing up the sides of the buckets.

    Speakers can be upgraded easily w/o disturbing the On-Star, just have the shop use the adapters to go from the factory plug to the new speaker connectors, I hate chopping up a harness to save $6 in parts, and if you want to re-install the factory speakers to sell later it will be much easier. I have also heard tales of success disconnecting the factory amp and adding an aftermarket unit, all while maintaining full On-Star use.

    I bought the extended warranty from the dealer when I got the truck, it should be the same price later, but if you get it when you buy they can roll it into the loan. I got an all inclusive bumper to bumper extended warranty, 5 years/100K miles, it is the same as the 3 year 36K mile one the truck comes with as far as coverage and deductible, but it is not through GM, you will have to ask the dealer about it. My theory on it was I am going to be damned if I have to make a truck payment and have to pay for a repair on the truck at the same time. You really have to look at the fine print on them though, some don't cover electronics, only mechanical items like the engine/trans/rear end, others have a huge deductible $259 - $500. In today's high tech cars you need the electronic parts covered, a computer brain can cost $1500 now a days. Really do your homework in this area, it will pay off in the long run.

    Only regret I have is the huge gas tank I have 38.5 gallons. Don't get me wrong I get 14 MPG city and 17 MPG highway, unloaded, it is just a real shocker to see the numbers keep rolling when you fill up from an empty tank.
  • balserbalser Posts: 90
    I had a 100k GM extended warranty on my '95 burb. The truck had about 25k on it when I bought it and I figure I broke even since I paid less than retail on the warranty. We didn't get one on my wife's '96. The only major repair was a broken snap ring in the transfer case, which tore the whole thing up. GM picked up the parts, charged me for labor (fair enough in my mind). Had I bought an extended warranty, I probably would have broken even again.

    Our 2000 burb has a 100k zero deductible warranty (the dealership screwed up - we paid for a $100 deductible, but the cards came through at zero!). I got it on the 2000 because it was the first year of the redesign.

    You can deal on the warranty price if you buy it as part of the deal. If memory serves me right, I think the dealer profit is in the neighborhood of 50%. Call around.

    Just make sure the dealer doesn't try to pull what one did to me. I insisted on a GM warranty (convenience and security), but when we went to sign they gave me some off-brand. When I refused to sign, they gave me the GM warranty for the agreed price. They're the ones that sent the contract through as a zero deductible, so I guess they got what they deserved.
  • Can anyone help me? I am looking for the best price I can expect to pay for a 2001 or 2002 (specify which) Suburban LT 4x4. I am in the Chicago (NW burbs) area. Please email me at

  • brown31brown31 Posts: 10
    Has anyone heard of any changes or seen any spy photos of the 2003 Yukon XL and XL Denalis? (I saw one of the Tahoe.)

  • robz3robz3 Posts: 28
    Thanks for your responses to my questions. I had another one.

    We had to have our dealer do a swap with another for the XL with second row captains chairs. So we didn't know exactly how it would be. The XL came today and my wife had to some paperwork at the dealer so she sat in it and she found one of the captains chairs to be a little uncomfotable. She described it as there being a softball in the seat bottom. She told the salesman and he didn't think there was a problem. I was going to go in tomorrow to check it out. I had already signed the buy order sheet before it arrived (bad move on my part) so I guess we are stuck.

    Does anyone else have this problem? What should the dealer be expected to do in this case?

    I should have gotten the Denali......
  • jgmilbergjgmilberg Posts: 872
    That truck belongs to the dealer until you sign the title paper work, and take the keys. If she meant at the bottom of the seat back it is possible that the lumbar was all the way out, that's what it feels like. It can be adjusted to each person's liking. It might also just be something stuck under the seat.

    If it is a seat problem I would not take possession of it until they replace the seat. Try a few others on the lot, if there are no others try the full size pickup, just make sure the seat is the same. They can swap out a seat from another truck if they have one the same type and color, otherwise it will need to be ordered and that may take as long as 2 weeks.

    If you are really into bells and whistles the Denali XL is the way to go, but with the frills comes a price tag to match, roughly 5 grand more. The extra features are really nice , the heated rear seats, steering wheel radio controls, auto climate control, 6 disc cd changer, Bose stereo, trip computer, all wheel drive, 6.0L engine, autoride, black cherry "wood" trim. It is truly a luxury ride indeed, but if you are on a budget the YXL might fit your wallet better.
  • My mileage is getting to the point I am getting ready to replace tires and I got handled as I have been running 18" Michelin Pilots.....what is a good upgrade on shocks???
    Thanks in advance....
  • rpirpi Posts: 7
    My 2001 XL 1500 has developed a driveline whine at 50mph. The whine appears to be comming from the front diff. but I am not sure. The noise is not apparent below or above 50mph. It is not tire or wind noise as the dealer has suggested. They were able to road test and hear the whine but have no explanation or fix. Has anyone encounterd such a problem?

    I also hear a knocking sound at idle after longer highway trips. It sounds like a tapping sound, almost like a loose bearing in an alternator. Dealer has heard the sound and has eliminated the possibility of valve chatter or engine related source, but has no fix. Maybe I need a new dealer.Any insight by other owners who may be experiencing similar problems. ?? Thanks in advance.
  • I have a 2000 suburban that from the very beginning has had the irritating habit of turning on the headlights whenever it gets even a little overcast. I have been told there are no adjustments. Anyone have an idea on how to adjust or defeat this without deactivating the DRL with the 4 pushes on the magic button? Thanks in advance!!
  • pat32pat32 Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Suburban LT with the automatic temperature control. Several times now with it in auto mode the A/C light will go out and the A/C stops working. Going into manual doesn't allow the A/C to come back on. Also going to manual and back to auto does not fix it either. After pushing the button, it flashes 3 times, which the owners manual says you cannot do that in the current mode. Then about 10 minutes later or it seems like when you go over 40 mph, if left in auto, the A/C light comes back on and blows cold air. Seems like an control problem. The dealer cannot seem to repeat this. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.
  • gillkgillk Posts: 1
    I am picking up a new 2001 Suburban LT in the morning and am wondering if the rear seat radio controls can be added to the console, fairly easily. For whatever reason, this one doesn't have them. I mean does anyone know if its just plug and play or?? The dealer promised to provide the necessary parts at cost if the job is possible w/o replacing the radio or console. Thanks in advance.
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