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Smart Fortwo
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Comments
But you still have a 6 year old car with a ton of miles on it. Not the best way to go.
2011 Hyundai Sonata, 2014 BMW 428i convertible, 2015 Honda CTX700D
A significant percentage of all ordered cars are not being purchased by the person who put down the deposit. Someone else purchased the one I ordered, but I do not know if there is a waiting list for these, or if you can just go in and make an offer on a turned down unit.
After 3 test drives my brain overcame the cool factor and realized that the tranny totally sucks and the lack luster mpg - my Beetle TDI does better, it
handles better and has more space while still being small and cool.
Also I would not think twice about taking the VW on a cross country trip.
There were many things I liked - but as it would be my only car, it just was enough and as I said the transmission was downright spooky. When a car has very few ponies - it needs a responsive tranny. Not only does it not have one, they reduced from 6 to 5 the number of gears from the previous model. Smart needs more gears not less.
I'll try again when they have a TDI diesel or hybrid.
Your concerns and caution are more important if the smart is to be your only ride. In that case, it may be too small, depending on how you use your transportation and what other options you have where you live.
The VW is huge by comparison, but still one of the smaller cars out there. It is a well-equipped vehicle and gets good mileage. Since 1998, it has lost a lot of its "coolness" factor (the second glance stuff is about gone), and is now seen as a "chick car." But who cares? Eventually, the smart may be old hat too. Though maybe not. The Mini has not lost its cache, and it has been selling here since 2002.
The oil filter and drain plug are easy as pie to reach, though you may want to jack up the right side of the car and remove the right rear wheel to get a pan under the drain. The air filter is accessible through the floor behind the seats, but it is a bit of a tight fit in there.
My blue and silver passion with the comfort package will probably be an orphan when it comes in.
:lemon:
First impressions:
- Surprisingly roomy. Very comfortable. Great seats. I'd drive it on a 500 mile trip.
- Somewhat choppy ride due to the short wheelbase, but not too choppy.
- Stable and sure-footed, even at 75 alongside 18 wheelers, but you can tell that
it weights 1800 lbs.
- Transmission and shifting is "different" and requires some getting used to and
some new skills, but once you get the hang of "paddle shifting" (my wife's
good at it), it's a lot of fun. As one person said, "It is what it is." It's NOT
an automatic, it's a manual with an automatic clutch.
- Well engineered and thought out. It's pleasantly surprising in a lot of ways.
- It DOES ATTRACT A LOT OF ATTENTION which could get old after awhile.
It's a second car, not a first or only. We're glad we got it and recommend it to others.
Thanks Randy
Thanks,
Jeannine Fallon
Corporate Communications
Edmunds Inc.
MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR
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About the wait; while we were picking ours up another couple wandered in and bought a coupe right off of the lot. Apparently there are a lot of cancellations so if you want one now and aren't fussy about color, style or options visit your local dealer and you might find one.
With the little smart, I can still fill it up locally for about $20, and its good for between 300 and 400 kilometers depending on the Mario Andretti factor when you are behind the wheel. It is the perfect car for gettin' the groceries, picking someone (or dropping off) at one of the ferry terminals, or just driving around. As our island is very tourist oriented, congestion is an issue on the weekends, especially in the summer, the Smart is as easy to find parking for as a motorcycle, but hauls way more stuff. Getting 6 bags of groceries in the back is easy. When I was renovating my house, yo wouldn't believe the amount of crap I was able to jam into the little car at the hardware store, that sunroof sure comes in handy! Once a month, I load it up with all of the recycling and take it to the depot, now thats green!
So far I haven't had any significant issues with it at all. It is very reliable. The biggest beef I have with it is that in wintertime, the defroster performance on the windshield is poor, but one of those anti-fog sponges solved that issue for under $5. I agree with the comments about the road noise, it is a little loud, but turning up the stereo fixes that. Suspension travel is a little short, you just have to take it easy on rough roads, and speedbumps etc, no problem. As some others have pointed out, the shifting is easy once you get used to it. My wife drives in auto mode, but I don't like the shift points, the engine runs way too fast. I drive in manual, use the trans to gear down on hills, saves the brakes. As far as the performance, yes it is a little slow off the line, but once you get it going, it'll go 120 kmh easily. I love the looks on peoples faces when I pass them on the highway with a "roller skate". I think it performs just fine considering just what it is displacement-wise. I have owned motorcycles with similar sized engines, and thought that they were also underpowered, but I was a teenager then, now the economical aspect is way more important, and a sluggish start is to be expected in an economy car, a non-issue in my view.
As I am a qualified mechanic, I do my own servicing. The diesel has no drain plug for the sump, so the old engine oil gets sucked out the dipstick tube, an oil rated drill pump takes care of this in no time flat. The oil filter is a replaceable element style, about $10 at the dealer, comes with a new o-ring for the cover. The fuel filter however, is a lot more expensive, over $50 but you only need a new one every couple of years. The air filter is a pleated paper cylinder cartridge inside the airbox, haven't priced one out yet, but it shouldn't be too bad for the OEM. If you read the european Smart websites, you can see an assortment of aftermarket air filter products are widely available over there, should be showing up here soon, highly recommended for performance/mileage improvements.
There is no factory service manual currently available for this car, the only thing I could find was a "homemade" service info CD on e-bay which I bought. It has some but by no means all of the info one would require for complete service information. Mercedes is holding their cards a little too close to their chest on this one, I feel that is their game plan for recouping their investment, by making you pay obscenely high labour costs for service. I'll give an example. The clutch that everyone seems to hate. It is a standard pressure plate style flywheel cutch that is actuated by a electric screw-jack style actuator. To adjust the clutch actuator is a 2 step process. Step one is to just slack the mounting bolts off, slide the actuator housing towards the bell housing, then release it, it will push itself back out slightly a couple of millimeters, then you tighten the bolts back up - easy right? Well, not exactly, the second step requires special software on a laptop hooked up to the OBD port to tell the ECU (Engine Control Unit) where the new clutch engagement and release points are. If you do step one without step two, you will fry that clutch in very short order. The software is called "Win-Star" and is very expensive to buy. The Smart dealership will (up here) charge you $150 an hour (1 hour minimum) for this simple 5 - 10 minute procedure. One of my goals is to hack my Smart, and develop a standalone application that we all can use to overcome this issue. The rubber seal on this actuator unit is poorly designed, and it is an entry point for water to get in and cause the actuator to stiffen up and fail. There is some information already online on how to fix this in such a way to prevent this from becoming a problem by improving the integrity of the rubber boot. Another weak spot is the outer door handles, mine will stick "out" occasionally, preventing the door from closing properly, I just haven't gotten around to taking them apart yet, and re-greasing them with silicone grease.
The key is a little too large for a key ring, but they are like that on almost all new vehicles these days, so I just carry it seperately in my pocket, no problem. As is the case with all these immobilizer systems, if the battery in the key fob goes dead, then you are stuck. I have a new spare in the locking drawer under the drivers seat, you can always open the back with the key to get in, change the battery with the help of a coin, and away you go!
My other half called me from town a couple weeks back, she was in the parking lot at the supermarket with a flat. I had picked up a nail last year with the same tire, put a plug in it myself, and all was well until now. When I got there to bail her out, I noted that the sidewall was torn. As it was getting dark, and I was too cheap to pay for a tow, I thought I would try the repair kit. The car comes with a bottle of instant patch, as well as an air compressor and other tools under the passenger side carpet in the footwell. First, I moved the car so the tear was at the 6 oclock position, removed the valve stem guts with the tool provided, poured the liquid from the bottle into the tire, and screwed the valve stem back together. I hooked up the compressor, noted the liquid coming out the tear, but lo and behold, it stopped, and the tire held air! Drove the car home without incident. I had to buy a new tire, and when I went to change it,
The whole snow thing? Well, we don't get snow here like we used to, and the few times we do get enough to cause issues, well thats one of the reasons I bought the Dodge. I did however try the little car out in the snow just for kicks. I didn't find it to be any better or worse than any other small car in a similar situation, but I have years of experience in driving in this type of snow, and had no problems. With a set of Blizzaks mounted on the rims, it would likely be unstoppable. The only thing you would have to watch out for would be not to high center your self on too much snow. Anything up to 4 or 5 inches would be manageable though.
Overall, I am really glad I bought this car, I love driving it, and other than the servicing issues, which I intend to solve, I am happy with my investment. I would have not bought the car if it wasn't for the diesel though.
1st tant - 45.51 mpg; 2nd tank - 44.69 mpg. GREAT!
Thanks,
haaseh
:lemon:
The truly crazy thing is no one is screaming the same way about fools riding motorcycles or even scooters, even though there is no safety there at all. Don't buy one if you don't want one, but please stop trying to foist irrational fear on everyone else. It is a safe ride for city driving, and certainly no worse in a crash than a Harley on the interstate.
Smart car - maybe. Dumb buyer - for certain.
"All things being equal in safety, bigger and heavier is always better," said IIHS institute president Adrian Lund in an statement.
So this isn't about irrational fear, it's about reality. The curb weight of the Versa is almost 150% of the curb weight of the smart.
I look at the safety ratings within a class of vehicle a lot like those EPA numbers. Your real world safety may vary.
How is a Tahoe going to do against the ever present, very numerous semis hauling crap everywhere? Am I supposed to drive a big rig in order to be safer? Should motorcycles be outlawed? Should we not drive on two lane highways? Should all cars be forced to be in the same size and class for safety reasons?
People in smaller cars may actually drive safer, due to their awareness of physics. (Those that don't may be subject to Darwin's law as well.) The smart has terrific engineering for safety. No one is claiming it overcomes physics, just that it does a better job at crunch control than one might normally expect.
Question: What is the best kind of accident?
Answer: The one you never have.
When considering the safety of a vehicle it is appropriate to consider both the “Active” (help you avoid an accident) AND “Passive” (protect you in the event of an accident) safety features of a vehicle. As we all know by now, the smart has all the “Passive” safety features - front & side/head air bags, seat belt pretensionsers & belt force limiters, “Tridion” safety cell, etc. – and top IIHS Safety Ratings. But, more importantly in my opinion, it has a full compliment of the “Active” ones as well – ABS, Traction Control, Brake Assist, Acceleration Skid Control, Cornering Brake Control, and ELECTRONIC STABILITY PROGRAM (esp). Experts agree that esp is the most significant safety feature to come along since seat belts. It’s standard equipment on all smarts and is not even available one most other small cars (e.g. Honda Fit, Toyota Yaris, Hyundai Accent, and most others). Personally, I wouldn’t consider buying a vehicle today that didn’t have electronic stability control. Note: esp will be required on all cars within a few years
In the event of an accident, it’s also important to consider the effects of weight, design, and the effects of kinetic energy. At just over 1,800 pounds and with it’s Tridion safety cell, the smart may very well bounce off the front of that 18 wheeler rather than crushing as many 5,000+ pound vehicles with less structural integrity might do. And with it’s size, responsiveness, and “Active” safety features, my smart will probably enable me to avoid the accident in the first place.
So, for safety, give me a smart.
I am really curious as it seems this would negate any savings or most for the difference in cost of the gas.
Also I find it funny that a car with "high compression" of 10 to 1 is too high for regular. But would like to hear from owners who have tried one or the other.
If I have to use prem. Its' a deal breaker for me.
Thanks all.
UncleFudd
Most likely not, the Smart is rated at 33 city and 41 highway with regular going at $4.14 and premium only 20 cents more at $4.35 that means a car using regular would have to get 31.4 city and 39 highway to equal the fuel cost per mile of the Smart. As far as I know all non hybrids fall short of that so the premise that the additional cost of premium eats up any savings due to MPG is false.
As gas prices increase car using regular will have to get even better mileage.
2011 Hyundai Sonata, 2014 BMW 428i convertible, 2015 Honda CTX700D
the reason I ask is because it is only a 10 to one compression. This should not be a reason to have to use premium. I guess the test is to put some in and drive it. If it is not detonating it is OK. But by then its' too late as it implies that you have already bought it in order to perform the tests I described. :confuse:
Anyone!!
Thanks
UF
As I'm getting 46-51 mpg on my smart (LOVE IT!) and premium is only 10-14 cents per gallon higher here, I use premium in my smart. 50-75 cents more per tank is not enough to cause me to switch to regular.
Enjoy!
Feedback appreciated.
Scott
I appreciate confirmation of what I beleived to begin with.
I have been a mechanic all of my life, although a licensed aircraft mechanic, I have built several high compression car and motorcycle engines to run fast and powerful. Now with gas cost it is imperative I get something with mileage in mind. But I was a little disconcerted to hear the sales person say that I must use premium. I asked him and he said it is a 1 liter 77 HP engine driving 1800 pounds. So it is difficult to imagine premium being the only fuel that will power it successfully.
I did not try to explain, but most people know that internal combustion engines will TELL you if they are running on poor or inadequate fuel. They knock or ping etc right away. However one would already have purchased to auto in order to test and decide whether it will run or not using regular.
I have no doubt it mat cause a little difference in performance but it should run just fine.
Now as my wife points out, it is only a 7 gal tank and only .20 cents difference in the two fuels so why bother and or take the chance.
merely to proove a point I suppose.
I ordered mine today and have no doubt the wife will run premium.
But thank you to all who participated.
UncleFudd
My thought and the expenses we have as a result of buying a new car to improve mileage is to save. Why do all of this to give back or lose mileage at expense of more expensive gas than is necessary.
I want all that I can get or why bother.
Nowhuttameen? If I have no choice or if it is going to cause problems with the car in the long run or if by using the regular I lose mileage, then by all means I must use premium.
Time will tell and so far there are not enough of them in use here in the states to know for certain whether it will really be an issue.
if none of the bad things actually happen, I will as I said take full advantage of every cent that I can save.
UF
Here in the midwest, a lot of gas has 10% ethanol. Bad for mileage. But premium often doesn't add ethanol. Mid-grade is usually always an ethanol mix. Sometimes as a result, you see mid-grade at the same price as regular (or at one station near me where regular has no ethanol added, a lower price). False economy. Avoid the ethanol stuff for the highest mileage.
We need more euro people movers in US!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!