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Volkswagen Beetle Engine Problems

24

Comments

  • rparrisrparris Posts: 2
    Did you ever figure out what was causing the stalling?
  • sylvia61sylvia61 Posts: 5
    DONT FEEL BAD ABOUT ALL THE PROBLEMS AND HIGH CHARGES IT COSTS TO FIX OR NOT FIX THEM.MY CHECK ENGINE LIGHT HAS BEEN ON FOR A YEAR NOW.I HAD A OXYGEN SENSOR PUT IN MINE LAST YEAR, AND THE LIGHT STILL CAME ON. I HAD IT CHECKED AGAIN 2 WEEKS AGO, AND 3 MORE CODES CAME UP AS TO THE PROBLEM.THESE WERE ELECTRCAL PROBLEMS. MINE HAS TO BE INSPECTED NEXT MONTH,AND IF I CAN GET IT INSPECTED WITH THE LIGH T ON I AM.IF NOT I WILL GET THE LIGHT CODED OUT AND HAVE IT INSPECTED RIGHT THEN.THE HECK WITH PAYING THEM HIGH REPAIR COSTS EVERY YEAR BEFORE INSPECTION.IF I COULD I WOULD GET RID OF MINE.THE COST TO HAVE THEM WORKED ON IS REDICULOS.I PUT A PIECE OF BLACK ELECTRICAL TAPE OVER THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT , AND DROVE ON.I HATE THE THING, AND DO NOT TRUST IT. :sick:
  • rhonagrhonag Posts: 1
    we have had much the same problem for over a year. we did have the spark plugs changed, but to no avail. the sputtering has gotten worst. we are truly not sure if we should change the turbo all together, because this has been suggested, or if changing the catalytic converter is wiser. the mechanics really do not seem to know what comes first or what to do first. :confuse:
  • mbeck75mbeck75 Posts: 4
    I have an '02 New Beetle Turbo S. It was doing the same thing at high speeds. Several took a look at it but none could find the problem. I replaced the fuel filter twice since two dealerships said that was the issue ... it did have that code, but this did not fix the issue. I went on like this for well over a year. It had started smoking - black smoke - pretty bad when it would spit and sputter. I'd been told that the turbo had gone out causing it to do this at high speeds. It would nearly give you whiplash when it would start this mess! Finally a mechanic decided to do a smoke test and found a $10 hose that was completely buried under the hood and completely shredded on the concealed side. He replaced it and the car has been great since! Hope this helps!
  • shookbradshookbrad Posts: 1
    Does any one know what the sequence is for retreving the check engine light service codes. I remember on another vehicle I had to put the car in reverse and turn the key on 7 times and put the car in Park and the ck engine light would blink out the service codes.
    I am looking for the sequence the VW Beetle uses for this and what the service codes are. Mine is a 2002 turbo.
    Thanks in advance.
    Brad
  • luvbuggluvbugg Posts: 1
    I HAVE A 2001 NEW BEETLE AND MY CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON. I TOOK IT TO THE MECHANIC AND IT HAD A CODE THAT SAID THERE WAS A BAD CONNECTION TO THE BATTERY. HE FIXED IT. NO MORE CODES BUT THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT IS STILL ON. DOES ANYONE HAVE ANY SUGGESTONS???? THANKS!!! :confuse:
  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Pennsylvania Furnace, PAPosts: 5,892
    One of the more common causes of a check engine light is a gas cap that isn't sealing properly. You might want to start your check there. Since it's a 2001 it's possible you might need to replace it. Since it's not giving you a code, that seems a likely possibility

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  • I have a 99 Beetle GLS 2.0L gas engine. Car has been great for 9 years and 63,000 miles! Replaced the water pump last year - covered by the power train warranty (10 years/100,000 miles.) Dodged an $800.00 bullet there. No other problems - just routine maintenance, brake pads, etc. From what I've read from other owners, I guess I've been lucky. I love the car, especially with gas prices as they are now. I have a 2007 4Runner that gets used on an as-needed basis only.

    My problem? After removing & replacing CD changer to free a stuck CD, I inadvertently shorted the radio circuit. The "Fuse Card" inside the fuse box door doesn't indicate which is the radio fuse, so I pulled each fuse and found all were okay. Discovered there is also a fuse on the back of the radio (of course the manual doesn't tell you - they want you to go to the dealer.) I borrowed the radio removal tools from a friend's auto body shop, removed the radio & found the 10 amp fuse was blown. Had to remove the three plug-in connectors for the radio wiring to get the fuse out. Replaced the fuse & connectors & all was fine (I thought.) Went to start the car & it turned over but didn't start. I immediately thought of the fuses and found I inadvertently put fuse #29 in slot #30. Put it back into #29 and the car started & runs fine, but the check engine light is on. What the f...! Can't get to a shop to check the codes for a few days. Any ideas anyone?

    Also, since replacing the radio fuse, it works okay but no longer shuts off automatically when the key is removed from the ignition. Also, the CD changer won't recognize discs. It goes through the magazine check but won't play - says "Disc Error" even using commercially made discs. I've read that solving one problem creates others but I haven't had that experience - until now. Weird! Any advice will be appreciated.

    Sincerely,
    Punchbuggy-yellow (A.K.A. Happyvolvo.)
  • sylvia61sylvia61 Posts: 5
    well guys and gals, i have told you all the problems ive had with my vw.after 4 diagnostic checks, the stupid vw dealer said the computer was messed up and neede replaced.they were charging 1475.00, to replace it.i found a import shop that was near by and they are replacing it with a used one for 370.00 to 500.00.the check engine light has been on for a year now. couldnt get it inspected til this light was out.somewhere along all the problems the dealer has crashed my computer, but wont take the blame.even vw of america wont help with it.so everybody who owns one, you are on a repair trail that never wants to stop.so if you have a good dependable auto, hang on to it.these new vw are not a cheap car to own. :sick: <a href=" :sick:
  • hoot81hoot81 Posts: 1
    We recently bought a used 2000 VW Beetle.
    After driving it a couple of times it overheated. It melted and blew 2 plugs out near the motor and that let water spray out onto to motor.
    The mechanic replaced the timing belt and the water pump.
    I drove it a couple of days and it overheated again.
    I knew the folks we bought it off of and they said they hadnt had any problems with it. It hadnt been driven since winter. Now after owning it 2 months we have only got to drive it about a week tops. Its overheating again. I have a thermostat ordered from VW and we will replace it this week. The fan is running fine. Any ideas what else it may be.
    I am so aggrivated.
    We also had to replace the a/c compressor. We bought a used one and it was fine until one of the lines blew. This is the only used part we have put on it. The compressor is fine but the line is going to cost 272 plus labor..
  • There were recalls on all the 1998 to 2002 beetles. The on-plug coils and the engine coolant temperature sensor both need to be replaced. If the sensor isn't replaced, the engine will get too hot and melt the on-plug coils, which are plastic.
  • mgeilmgeil Posts: 2
    My 2000 beetle also overheated in August 2008 and caused a very expensive repair. Can you provide the details of the recall? Thank you!
  • is it possible that my oil cooler is leaking oil in the coolant? i have a 2000 beetle and the oil is seeping into coolant..also my oil cooler seems to be very hot to the touch? when i am warming up engine, the oil cooler gets real hot? or do i just have a blown head gasket???
  • I Have an 2000 Bug and mine is doing the exact same thing. turning over but stalling immediatley after, unless you rev the engine. I got it serviced yesterday but the EPC and the traction light only stayed off for a couple minutes, and the engine and airbag lights are on all the time. I'm not sure whats wrong with it because I can't really afford the service at the moment
  • yooperyooper Posts: 30
    I have a 2000 New Beetle with 99,000 miles. Recently started to run rough, stall at idle, eventually restarts,
    I have installed new plugs, runs a little better but still stalls at times
  • I HAVE A VW CHASSIS, ENGINE AND TRANSAXLE FROM A LOCAL SCRAP YARD. I WOULD LIKE TO REBUILD THE ENGINE AND TRANSAXLE FOR A VW POWERED TRIKE. THE NUMBER ON THE METAL UNDER THE TRUNK READS 134 231 5062. THE SHIFTER TUNNEL IS STAMPED WITH THE NUMBER 134 251 7068. THE ENGINE IS STAMPED WITH THE NUMBER KO 23911. IT IS STAMPED ON THE MOTOR JUST BELOW THE GENERATOR BRACKET. CAN YOU PLEASE TELL ME WHAT TYPE OF VEHICLE THIS WAS AND WHAT SIZE ENGINE IT HAD? ANY HELP WOULD BE DEEPLY APPRECIATED. THANKS.
  • iggy12iggy12 Posts: 1
    Just wanted to know if anybody else had this problem. After i start my car and have it in gear i go to press on the gas pedal and it has no power. If i floor it the car starts shaking and it wants to stall. After i run the car for a few minutes it goes better but it is not 100%. I replace the batterie, still doing it. The water pump,timing belt have been done last year. If anybody knows anything could you please help.

    Thanks in advance.
  • pepahpepah Posts: 4
    would the vacuum hose breaking off make the engine not run? or would a low battery keep the engine from running? the car will start and runs for about 25 seconds...anyone have any clues or answers?
  • scare1scare1 Posts: 1
    My fella bought me my VW Beetle last yr..it has done alot of miles and we thought was going really quite well although the engine light has always been on since we bought it. It has just had a service and all ok at a local garage not VW dealership,they just said it needs to be plugged into the computer to get the engine dash light off.
    Lately tho' the past week or so it has been cutting out on me when I'm going round roundabouts,sitting at lights and turning corners like i have stalled it..and I know I havent! Have to put the hazards on and restart worried that someone is gonna go into the back of me...by the way it is a new battery
    Has anyone got any answers?
    Please help Sarah
  • pepahpepah Posts: 4
    UPDATE: now the EPC light is on when we try to start the car. The car will start but immediately stalls. We had it hooked up to a battery charger all night and still continues to stall after turning it over. WHAT THE EPC LIGHT MEAN??? :blush: DOES ANYONE HAVE ANY IDEAS WHY THE CAR WONT RUN???? :confuse: HELLLLPPPPP!!!! :sick:
  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Pennsylvania Furnace, PAPosts: 5,892
    I think EPC stands for Electronic Power Control, so I'm guessing you have a problem somewhere along the "drive by wire" throttle control system. In the bad old days, gas pedals were connected to throttles by a cable, but now they generally are electronic controls that operate the throttle. The car probably starts because the fuel pump regulator (which keeps pressure in the fuel line) has enough gas at the engine to get it started, but whatever the actual problem is (bad relay, bad potentiometer, etc) in the electronic throttle control system then prevents any more fuel from getting to the engine and it stalls.

    I think you're likely looking at an electronic control issue rather than some physical problem with the engine and/or battery

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  • vwfreak80vwfreak80 Posts: 2
    My blue tempature light comes on after driving, and if I go long distances, it starts flashing. Through research i think i want to try to replace the coolant sensor? Where is the best place to buy a new one, and does someone have instructions or a link on how to change it your self without paying out the ....
  • pepahpepah Posts: 4
    thank you very much for your input, I appreciate your comment.
  • fomc99fomc99 Posts: 1
    I had a timing belt break on my vw beetle 2.0 gas engine. While I was changing the timing belt I decided to change the head gasket also. I have the engine all put back to gether and have checed an rechecked the timing belts specs and it is right. In fact I even tried it 180 degress to make sure I had it right. When I try to start the car it acts like not compression. It rurns over reall fast like the motor is not turning over. It does however have compression and the psitons are ok and the valves are ok. The crank and the cam and are both turning over. If I step down on the accelerator it will backfire no matter if I have the timing belt right on or 180 degrees off. Any suggestions.
  • It could be the fuel filter, air filter or oxygen sensor. I had a 5speed Rabbit GTi that stalled when in neutral due to the Oxygen sensor. Just a guess. Hopefully this helps you.
    Good Luck with your car. :shades:
  • autoboy16autoboy16 Posts: 992
    Make sure you also change the Water pump! Vw installed in all Vws a waterpump with a Plastic Impeller that is prone to breaking around 60k miles. Make sure to change it NO LATER THAN 80k miles! BOTH!!

    The entire kit for a 2.0 is $150 on Ecstuning

    Sometimes, if its flashing red, it can also mean the the car is running low on coolant. do NOT buy GREEN coolant from autoparts advanced! you MUST buy Vws G12 Coolant. Yes, its more expensive, but its the only coolant that will work in a Vw Engine properly without throwing weird codes and causing problems. You can also add some distilled water.
  • I have a 1999 Beetle, 86,xxx miles, 5 speed manual transmission. I was driving it out to a friends house, stayed 5 minutes, got back in the car and it wouldn't start. There is a soft hum coming from near the engine of the car. We had to push it to pop the clutch to get it to start. It ran fine on the way home, but still won't start. The battery is not dead(tried to jump it.. nothing) Please help!!!
  • What makes a 2000 VW Beetle 4 cyl, 2.0 liter engine, single overhead camshaft, make a predetonation knock upon the acceleration of the throttle under 1000 rpm's?

    Please Help ?!
  • unplug the MAF (mass air flow sensor), located on hose going into air filter box. If car runs better it is the MAF, check junk yards,..... all the junkyards..... they are hard to find used but worth the effort. A new one (Bosch) can cost 160 to 280, used should be $50. I'm fairly new to this 1.8 beetle but learning and spending quickly.
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