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Toyota Celica GT - Troubleshooting

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Comments

  • I have a 2000 celica. Just bought in March 2011. Over last few weeks start up performance has diminished. New plugs just in to help it, but it still won't idle upon first start up. Also sluggish to no go when trying to get out of first gear. Gotta revv it to get it moving. Shifts well enough on the road, but when you give it gas to pass it boggs down to no go. Starts bucking 'til you downshift and revv again. Any thoughts? Thanks.
  • try cleaning or replacing (if that bad0 the IACV....intake air control valve. It is att5ached to the throttle body and controls airflow mixture and will also effect your heat.
    there are some you-tube videos that show how to.....
  • I have a 2000 Celica GTS 6 speed. It feels like the clutch slips when I take a corner. Do I have a clutch, transmission or rear end issue? I know I have to push the clutch almost through the floorboard to get the starter to engage. Is that another issue?
  • I Have that same car, I dont know about the corner thing, I don't seem to feel anything when I go around corners, but for starting their is 2 switches your clutch hits, and the one to engage the starter is at the very end of your clutch, so for that, that is normal.
  • If its only slipping on corners, its prob not the clutch, if it was you should feel it when you accelerate too, could be a drive shaft. also a UV joint, but if it was that you should feel vibration.
  • jeezjeez Posts: 1
    edited January 2012
    Hi everyone. Love my Celica. 124,000 miles and no problems till now. After starting the gages dont come on, no indicater lights etc. Also the Shifter does not unlock. This doesnt happen all the time. Sometimes have to do a restart several times, then everything will finally come up. Clock is on, rear lights come on, but not front lights (I know about that interlock). Im assuming its a bad relay, but can't figure out which one it would be. Any of you Celica Gurus have any ideas? Thanks.
  • joedynamojoedynamo Posts: 2
    edited March 2012
    There are 4 motor mounts, the one that usually is the biggest culprit for vibration is the dog-bone on the right side (accessory belt side /passenger side) fender well, has that one been replaced? The other mounts are centered below the front of the motor and in back of the motor, both down below, and then the upper transmission mount on the driver side fender well. Your mechanic probably replaced the mounts showing obvious cracking & wear, but the other two could also be the problem as well, when they start to go well they all most likely are worn out way past original specifications for noise and vibration absorption.
  • scoobyd00scoobyd00 Posts: 1
    If you're having to push your clutch in hard to start it. sounds like your nuetral safety switch is needing tweeked. there is a switch down on your clutch pedal(like your brake) that will not let the motor (starter) engage unless your foot is depressing the clutch pedal for safety reasons. I would check the location of that switch and see if that is where your problems lies.
  • peterpan99peterpan99 Posts: 64
    edited May 2013
    Did the CEL go on?

    Buy an engine scanner and check the OBD code out. It would tell you what's failing.

    Sounds like a dirty or faulty Mass Airflow Sensor. Spray clean the platinum wire with CRC MAF cleaner or any residue -free electrical contact cleaner.

    Check all vacuum hoses, clack quarter inch rubber hoses. If unplugged or leaky , they will cause hesitation.
  • I have a 2001 celica that died on me while I was driving it, it completely turn off and would not restart. Now the starter doesn't turn over. Have bypassed the clutch switch and checked the battery. What could it possibly be. :sick:
  • Celica GTS has 2 bottom engine mount, 1 big behind and the smaller one in front of the block.
    They are just brackets with rubber mounts to dampen vibration. the 2 top engine mount on top of the engine block are smaller.

    I run the GTS very hard, down shifting hard etc... So the mounts are worn out. When stop with transmission engaged, the engine vibrates like crazy. Disengage the transmission and then engine idles smoothly. Also on take off, the wheels spin before grabbing traction.

    The engine mount cost about $150 at dealer. You can put the car on block, jack up the engine block, remove a few bolts and take out the 2 bottom engine mounts. They can be rebuilt by adding polyurethane to the worn rubber.

    Polyurethane comes in different hardnesses and melting temperatures. Can be ordered from eBay or McMaster Carr.

    Make sure you clean the rubber and mating surfaces with a brush and solvent like Acetone to make good bonds.
  • I Installed an after-market set of front and rear engine mount in a GTS2002.

    The car now has more vibration at idle than before with OEM mounts. Apparently the rubber material may be stiffer than factory's.

    Therefore Rebuilding engine mounts not recommended. For $50 more, buy Toyota's engine mount for smooth idling.

    Replacing the rear engine mount involves serious work and risks of damages or injuries. Local shops here only want $90-100 to replace the rear engine mount. I suggest the bros to leave it to the shop with proper equipments and tools to do with minimum risks.
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