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Lexus RX 300

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  • bobfloydbobfloyd Posts: 32
    by listing my previous posts that have not convinced you. By the way, the HOST can take care of himself.
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 41,981
    So, anyone want to talk about the Lexus?

    Steve
    Host
    SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards

    Moderator
    Minivan fan. Feel free to message or email me - stever@edmunds.com.

  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    anyone want to talk about bi-xenon upgrade for their HID equipped RX?

    All it takes is a resister between the high beam voltage supply and the RX's level sensor.
  • fasterthanufasterthanu Posts: 210
    I have a 2001 RX and recently noticed a lot of squeaking coming from the rear left passenger area. It was pronounced when moving from a stop, and sometimes on turns. Here was my fix: sprayed a liberal amount of WD-40 on the hinges in the left rear passenger door - squeaking is GONE. Just sharing a recent experience.
  • rxlaxrxlax Posts: 13
    According to the tech Manual on the 667-Excursion, it weighs 44lbs vs 32 for the Playpen. For security and protection the box wins hands down but for versatily and space I prefer the PlayPlen. I am thinking about all those times I go to Home depot or Ikea to get something and end up dropping the seats and using the inside instead of the top. Both Box/Pen would be useless for a 150 lb entertain/center. But I am just thinking of what I would be putting on top. 12lbs is a big difference, thats a baby carriage.
    Need to figure out what works out best for U
  • ravlravl Posts: 129
    Man! Would it get boring! The dissenting voice is what gets people talking. Take it away and you'll see this forum dry up.

    Mr. Wwest, keep offering your opinion. I'm sure I get a few feathers ruffled when I pepper you with questions, but it's obvious to me (especially in your last post explaining your position) you offer a wealth of knowledge and it's up to me to decide what I want to accept and reject. I've always respected the fact you haven't allowed people to quiet your voice.

    You're never vulgar or rude. I can't even remember once you responding back with a mean tone to the class clowns who goad you. (I love you class clowns, too!)

    As to the moderator, keep on chooglin'. You be doin' fine.

    Just my .02. I like this place just the way it is.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    I would imagine the 75 pound limitation is a reflection of the weakness of the crossbars. Also remember that on a good healthy BUMP, or DIP, the resulting G-force might almost double the weight.

    I'm relatively sure that the limitation isn't due to lack of structural rigidity at the crossbar mounting points. So if you really want to put more weight on top you might want to look, first, at a way to re-enforce the strength of the crossbars.

    And thank you ravl, I really did need that.

    When we finally get that new search engine maybe I can refer people to past dissertations....
  • trmgatrmga Posts: 50
    My 01 RX 300 has 24,000 miles on it and I plan to keep it until it has about 100,000 miles which will be about 6 to 7 years after initial purchase. Am considering purchasing an extended warranty. Have never done this before but now that there is so much hi tech gadgetry I am concerned about repair costs after 50K miles. My '93 GS 300 has 125K miles on it and I have never had a repair expense that would have justified purchasing an extended warranty. Considerably less sophisticated however than the RX 300 IMHO. Warrantybynet.com has a premier plan that appears to cover it all including Nav system for 7year/100K miles at cost of $1,126. Very comprehensive plan. Same plan would cost $1,616 if I wait to purchase it when car has 48,000 miles on it. Anyone out there had any experience with these plans or have any thoughts on the wisdom of purchasing one. Would be interested in your thoughts.
  • ravlravl Posts: 129
    IMHO, if you bought a BMW or Mercedes, you'd want an extended warranty plan. But, you're buying a Lexus. A big part of their appeal is the fact they're pretty bullet proof.

    It would be a waste of money to buy the plan. You already get 4 years and a bunch of miles (can't remember the exact amount.) If something's going to break, it'll be in warranty. Again, JMO.
  • ravlravl Posts: 129
    Since you "own" a Lexus. I should have read more carefully.....
  • geewiz1geewiz1 Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 RX300 and have been looking for the trailer hitch wire plug or lead thats supposed to be in the plastic container under the trunk with the charcoal canister. Well I cant see anything there that looks like I can hook onto to light up my trailer lights.
    Does any one have any experience with this???

    Thanks
  • pschiffepschiffe Posts: 373
    I had to tap into the wiring harness on my '99. Used a Hoppy #46255 converter and 3M #804 Scotchlok self-stripping connectors. No "plug" on my RX, don't know about the later models.

    Pete
  • malhokcmalhokc Posts: 83
    I was some on ebay not too long ago.
  • ham1005ham1005 Posts: 1
    I am having problems with the airconditioner on my 2002 RX300. It doesn't get really cold. Has anyone else experienced this problem? Should I contact the dealer? Also, I moved from Seattle, WA to Chicago, IL. Any recommendations on changes to make to the vehicle (oil, fuel grade, etc.)
  • rerenov8rrerenov8r Posts: 380
    First, I would STRONGLY advise against a third party warranty-- there is just TOO MUCH incentive for that kind of company to deny all claims until/unless you threaten legal actions... At least with the 'factory backed" warranty their is the incentive for dealer& factory to keep you "in the family"...

    Secondly I would question the need/value for any extended warranty. The manufacturers go to considerable lenghts to ensure the vehicles' systems last well beyond the standard warranty period. Whether it is Toyotoa/Lexus, another import/luxury brand or even the domestics they ALL have a "factory certified used" program that can and does warranty vehicles till 7/years 100K miles. They can do this because the ODDS are great that there will be NO warranty payable repairs within 100K miles.

    Third, consider the cost of the coverage. Generally, the most prone to failure systems are the cooling system and elctrical accessories. If you had to replace the water pump it is proably about $600-- less than half what the extended warranty would cost, REPAIRS to an electrical accessory even cheaper -- (don't confuse the 'replacement cost' of the electrical accessory with the typical repair fee, a trick I've seen done many times when trying to convince of the terrific value an extended warranty offers...)

    I suppose you could say that the warranty buys "peace of mind" but I'd argue that your choice of vehicle is greater peace of mind. Simply DO NOT buy a vehicle with lower than average reliablity!

    Finacially the extended warranty STRONGLY favors the issuer. They make LOTS of money. That is why they can offer the warranty at all. Think about it, do you treat your car 'better than average'? If so the warranty should have 'fewer than average' claims with somebody like you. You would likely do better by depositing an amount of money equal to the extended warranty in an intrest bearing account. If any repairs are needed ODDS are strongly in favor of them being less costly than the amount saved up. After the repairs are done it would be smartest, from financial & emotional perspectives, to immeadiately sell/trade in the vehicle for a new model with new warranty and its new "peace fo mind"...

    FINALLY it is NOT SMART to keep a vehicle that was purchased new past 5/years 60K miles. Doesn't really matter what kind/make of vehicle (excepting collectibles) the fall-off in value & buyers is VERY steep after 5 years. While different vehicles may depreciate along a steeper slope, it is smart to trade/sell when the gap between what your vehicle would fetch and a replacement's cost is narrowest (factoring in what, if anything you owe to the lender). Simply put, get rid of your vehicle while it can still help you get into a new one. I would suggest that you graph out the rise in new model prices vs. the 'retained value' in your used model. Low miles are an overated virtue, as the model year is a bigger factor in determining value. Right now the spread between your used RX300 and asimilarly equiped 2002 might only be 3 or 4K. (If you have a loan you probably owe much more than that...) When the 03 is available I would estimate another another 2or 3K added on. The 04 would see the spread increase more 3or 4k.(If you have a 48 month loan it would be paid off too...) 05 might be a smaller add on of another 2 or 3K, but you'd already be 10K or more away from a new vehicle. The 06 might see a gap approaching half of your RX300's original selling price. I would suggest you "map out" the point at which you would feel the least comfortable watching your 'retained value' melt versus the 'purchasing power' towards a replacement... I have seen far more vehicle owners hold on to too long than sell too soon, if that "extended warrranty" makes it too easy for you to "hang onto" your RX300, it will cost even more...
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    The efficiency of the A/C in my 01 AWD RX300 for cooling the vehicle is clearly marginal on a 90F sunny day even here on the eastside of Seattle. Not that we even get any of those since it rains constantly here.

    There are a few things you can do to help. Take that "slider" that covers the sunroof and cover its top with the most reflective side of household aluminum foil. Add additional window film to the front side windows. Make sure all of the windows and doors are fully closed.

    To most quickly cool the vehicle after it sets in the hot sun "flick the temperature setpoint to max cold, over-ride the recirc function to "fresh" and turn the blower all the way up to more quickly purge the interior air that is likely hotter than the "fresh" incoming air. The cabin airflow exhauster is fairly restrictive so lower one of the rear windows slightly.

    If you happen to drive away immediately then the vehicle's aerodynamic nature will prevent most exhauster airflow so as Lexus states, lower the rear windows until most of the trapped hotter air is purged.

    Once the cabin interior temperature has reached a temperature at or below the outside world then manually switch it to recirc, close the windows and now as soon as you deem it viable (a learned thing) put the system in fully automatic. It may not seem so but the Lexus climate control achieves its highest cooling efficency with the blower running at its very lowest speed, the longer it takes the airflow to move through the evaporator core the colder it will get.

    And, in automatic mode while the system will continue to indicator "fresh" mode it will actually be mostly recirculating already cooled and conditioned cabin air.

    On my 92 LS400 I once disconnected the cable that meters the engine water jacket to the heater core and tired the valve off so absolutely no hot water could flow throught the heater core. Very hot day in north central MT that was.

    I don't know where, exactly, that water valve is in your RX but you might consider tying it shut for the duration if nothing else works.

    I find that the system works best for cooling on HOT days (it works fine in automatic mode if not capacity challenged) if I turn the setpoint to "max cold", set the airflow routing to bi-level, footwell and dash, and then manually monitor/control the blower speed to control the cabin's comfort level.

    In "max cold" position the water jacket flow valve should be fully closed if it was correctly set at the factory.

    You're now in an area that is famous for being both HOT and HUMID, so you might be amazed to learn that most of your system's cooling capacity is flowing out the condensate drain. "Squeezing" gaseous water into liquid form boils off a lot of refrigerant.

    And now, if you bought a dark interior just forget everything above, you're just simply out of luck!
  • learn2flylearn2fly Posts: 16
    I disagree with your suggestion to get rid of a purchased vehicle at the end of 5 years. For maximum ROI (Return on Investment), it is recommended that you should keep the vehicle for 8 to 10 years minimum.
    Typically after the first 5 years, you have no more monthly payments to make on the car. So other than regular maintenance of the car, you don't have any other overhead for another 5 years if you keep the car for 10 years. This outweighs any Residual value calculations on your vehicle.
    Think about this and you will realize the folly in your argument.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Worse than folly, totally irresponsible.

    Even my old Fords, 68 & 75, went 250K miles without undue maintenance costs. My 92 LS400 has about 80k miles, has NEVER been back to the shop, I replaced ONE oxygen sensor in all that time.

    Today's cars are an automotive mechanic's nightmare!!!
  • jeffmust2jeffmust2 Posts: 811
    Ham -

    We have a 2001 RX, black over black and reside in one of the hottest areas within So.CA, semi-desert. Not unusual to see 110-115 F. but humidity is, of course, pretty low vs. Chicago.

    Car cools down great if the A/C is operating properly, and yours might not be. So, as Zizzy suggested, have it checked - still under warranty at this point unless you racked-up 50k miles rather fast!

    As for other suggestions, I can second that one about tin foil being a major advantage, layered with shiny side up on top of the moonroof slider.

    Along with McGyver, the poster that suggested the tin foil trick, I've been able to pick-up radio transmissions from Mars, Venus, and Pluto - and the Moon telecommunications comes in so clear you'd swear it was next door!

    Let us know the outcome.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    zizzy:

    Didn't you just state, basically, that the automatic mode of the Lexus A/C doesn't work in hot and humid climates?

    Zizzy's "simple" thermometer test will be meaningless to an A/C shop. What they WILL want to know is the evaporator's inlet air temperature versus the "downstream" temperature. Like zizzy says you can obtain the outlet temperature by using "max cool" (NONE of the system airflow should/will be routed through the heater core) and putting the system manually in "fresh". The indicated outside air temperature will then be approximately the same as the evaporator's inlet air temperature. I would also suggest making the measurement on a fairly low blower motor speed.
  • jeffmust2jeffmust2 Posts: 811
    You could take your RX to a Lexus service writer and tell him that the A/C doesn't cool very well compared to other such vehicles you've been in.

    Could work.
  • bigorange30bigorange30 Posts: 1,091
    I agree with wwest and learn2fly. It is total foolishness to sell at 5 years. You should calculate your cents/mile including purchase price, interest, gas, maintenance and repairs. Take all these costs and divide them by the # of miles you drive the car before you sell it. If it is a good car, (Toyota, Lexus, Nissan, Infiniti, Honda, Acura etc.) then it should go 200 to 250 M miles before it starts to break down often. This will make it about $0.25 instead of the $.40-$.50/mile rerenov8r would have you pay. You need to drive a car until it has virtually no value left in it. In the 5 or so years you are not making a payment to the bank, make that same payment to your savings account. Then when your RX300 or whatever is costing you ~$200-300/month in repairs, sell it for scrap if you have to and pay cash for your next car with what you have saved. That is the responsible thing to do. Rerenov8r is trying to line car dealers pockets with his advice. Hmmmmm, maybe he is one.
  • wwest, no such statement was made. Please read carefully. I said "Once the cabin has cooled down, I generally run it at Max Cold/Fan at 2 bars with the recirculator on."

    I made no reference to automatic mode. Please do not paraphrase me or twist my statements to suit your agenda. Wow, not just denigrating to Lexus automobiles, Lexus owners are now included.

    And as I've said, get a grip.

    Read again; Once the cabin has cooled down, I generally run it at Max Cold/Fan at 2 bars with the recirculator on.

    I cool down the cabin by hitting the Auto button.
    The automatic mode is the best! At Auto/Max Cool setting, the fan is wide open and I don't need that much air movement after the cabin has cooled down.

    So again; Once the cabin has cooled down, I generally run it at Max Cold/Fan at 2 bars with the recirculator on.

    Try copy and paste. It's easier than paraphrasing and saves me time.

    ham1005, if you measure the A/C at the vent and it's 40F or higher, it's not meaningless. Tell an A/C shop that the air coming out of the vent is this temp and they'll tell you to bring it in.

    My A/C @Max Cool/Recirculate measures 34F.

    I've had similar A/C cooling problems twice. Each time, the technician started by sticking a thermometer in the vent. Simple.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    The technician was "present and accounted for" at the time he used a thermometer to measure the outlet temperature, if he didn't actually read, or KNOW, the (OAT) inlet temperature his experience would likely have been enough to give him a very good idea what the inlet temperature was (maybe he looked at the OAT indication and you didn't notice). When you call an A/C technician on the phone and give him/her a single point of reference no judgement can be rendered.

    In order to know if the system is operating correctly and efficiently one would need to know, at least approximately, the air temperature drop "across" the evaporator.

    As it happens you operate your A/C the same way I operate my 01 RX300 A/C in hot weather. IMMHO if I rely on the automatic mode to keep the interior cooled to my passenger's comfort zone, 72F, using a setpoint of 72F, then the Lexus system eitehr neevr gets there or takes way to long to get there and then even when it finally does it's automatic modulation moving from sun to shade can be very discomforting and annoying.

    Setting the temperature setpoint to max cool eliminates the system's control loop for adjusting the mixing/blend door (and thereby the cabin temperature comfort level) and always provides outlet airflow with the MAXIMUM cooling applied. When you modulate the blower speed (to two bars) to control cabin temperature your are simply replacing that system control loop with your own "senses".

    So as I have said, you proved my point, whether you like it or not.

    The Lexus RX300 climate control does not have adequate capacity for HOT climates, and especially so for HOT & Humid climates.

    Actually it appears that at the base, or fundamental level, the Lexus RX300 likely DOES have enough cooling capacity provided the control system never routes a portion of the system airflow through the heater core (reheat cycle). Lexus probably decided that the resulting airflow (with no reheat) would be so cold as to be discomforting.

    Max cool/recirculate/34F...

    Damn that's COLD, gives me chills, shivers, just setting here thinking about it.
  • Gawd, when the vent is pumping 40F or higher and it's summertime in Chicago(remember? "an area that is famous for being both HOT and HUMID"), judgement can be rendered. It's not working like it should. The same judgement that ham1005 made without any measurements.

    I've proven nothing. There's nothing to prove. His A/C is not performing as well as he likes. Your points remain unclear and irrelevant. Again, please do not twist my statements to suit your agenda.

    My auto mode works perfectly well. When I hit auto, it's doing exactly what it's set to do. It's set at Max Cool, and that's what it pumps and attains, Maximum Cool (which is why I turn it down). I want it to automatically turn my cabin into an icebox. It does just that.

    I fully expect it to automatically result in a colder, less humid cabin than I prefer, because, outside, it's hotter and more humid than I prefer. This enables me to automatically cool off as quickly as possible.

    I suppose I could select a specific temperature, like 72 degrees, and then hit the auto button. The fan would automatically adjust its speed to attain and then maintain that temperature. Whee!
  • pholliephollie Posts: 45
    In discussing how long to keep the car...who among us has the highest mileage to date.
    I personally have 60k on a 99 rx. I bought it with 50 last fall. Still running smooth. Any one else?
  • bradsteilbradsteil Posts: 6
    I have 29,000 miles on my RX300 and am scheduled in the next few days to take it in for the 35,000 servicing. Just recently the engine light came on. I notice in the owners manual that it could be related to the transmission or engine. I called the dealership asking about if I need to bring my car in sooner than the scheduled appointment and they stated that the emission filter (PVC ?) probably needed to be replaced.

    Has anyone had a similar situation and has it turned out to be related to emission filter, etc?
  • rerenov8rrerenov8r Posts: 380
    Sorry, I am not shilling for a dealer-- that should be obvious if you read my whole post on the questionable value of an extended warranty.

    I will agree that if you have the discipline to "continue to make payments" to your own savings account you would be money ahead hanging onto a vehicle BUT the reality is 99% of vehicle owners will need a replacement when their present vehicle is sold/disposed of and too few come with any significant cash. As such, they are making a highly leveraged purchase, hardly an investment so a "return" (ROI) can't really be calculated. I suppose you could calculate the total expenditures and figure this against against "opportunity cost" but you'd soon have a spreadsheet that looks like something from WorldCom or Enron ;^). The efforts of Edmunds to show TCO are valid, and if people use 'em they'll be wiser for it.

    I will stand by my arguement that you often do better using the 'retained value' of one vehicle to lower the TCO of its replacement rather than squeezing the last bit of value out of vehicle and starting over. This is especially true if you own a chain of vehicles with DECREASING TCO, something that is easier to do as several manufacturers are reducing maintence needs in newer vehicles. {I suspect that some makers will find they need to move back towards 'planned obsolence' as the 'lonely mechanic' will eventaully hurt overall profitablity for dealers/manufacturers if people can own trouble free vehicles indefinately.}

    I too have seen the "8 to 10 year" maximum value calculations, and they don't hold up for many, many vehicles. The frequency with which models change, the additional optional equipment and the competitive offerings all conspire to make many vehicles worth a fraction of what they were worth new. That is why I emphasized that each vehicle owner should chart out the gap between what their current vehicle is worth and what a replacement would cost.

    I also clearly stated that some cars deprecaite along a steeper line than others. Fortunately the Lexus LS sedans are holding value tremendously well, right up there with the best ever. I do not think that the RX300 is doing nearly that well in retained value and length of time on used car lots/supply of new vehicles (sludge factor?, Highlander, competition?). This situation may only worsen when the redesign/replacement bows in a year or so as a 2004 with many changes expected to combat the MDX, streched X5, Cayenne, XC90 etc...

    I will concede that I was painting with too broad a brush when I used the 5yr/60K mile number for all vehicles. There are a ton of vehicles that you'd really take a bath doing that. There may even be some situations where driving a vehicle until it has only 'scap value' makes sense, but this is, afterall, a Lexus RX300 forum, and the image factor is a strong influence.
  • mrrogersmrrogers Posts: 391
    was one of several fascinating books by Thomas Malloy. It it he reports that most American millionaires drive Fords. In one of his books he also talks about millionaires buying late model used high end Lexus, Acura, and Infiniti. The stategy is that you keep on offering a low price as you call on private owners, and eventually you will find some yuppie in financial straits who will accept your offer. Malloy does not believe in the stategy of buying new cars, and eating all that depreciation the first three years. Have a nice Fourth.
  • mikey00mikey00 Posts: 462
    After 7 attempts the dealer finally was able to fix my popping sunroof. The first 6 times he tried lubrication, insulation, felt padding, procedures in an older Lexus TSB and procedures in the Highlander TSB without any success. He finally ordered Lexus part #'s 63217-48010, 63218-48010, 63219-48010 and 63635-48010 which all go under the name of Sunroof Garnish. It has been 2 weeks now and the problem is definetly solved.
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