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Lexus RX 300

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Comments

  • pschiffepschiffe Posts: 373
    It takes a contortionist to gain access to the dash light cluster in my opion. Not a DIY project, shop manual lists these steps for disassembly:

    1. Remove combination meter cover
    (a) Remove the 9 screws.
    (b) Remove the combination meter cover.
    2. Remove A/C and combination meter integrated ECU
    (a) Remove the 4 screws.
    (b) Remove the A/C and combination meter integrated ECU and 2 combination meter wire.
    3. Remove combination meter circuit plate
    (a) Remove the 5 screws and 6 connectors.
    (b) Remove the combination meter circuit plate from the meter case.
    4. Remove meter hood
    5. Remove combination meter glass
    6. Remove combination meter plate
    Remove the screw and meter plate.
    7. Remove speedometer assembly
    (a) Remove the 2 screws and speedometer assembly.
    (b) Remove the No. 4 combination meter plate.

    Pete
  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 40,184
    Please, no links to other car forums (see Rules of the Road above).

    thanks,

    Steve, Host

    Moderator
    Need help navigating? stever@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • mchen70mchen70 Posts: 9
    Thanks Slandy for your post on how to fix the drive lights. I just did it and it took about 30 min. from start to finish because I lost some retaining clips and had to fuss around to find them. I went to your other external posting before it got booted out of here and the directions were great. What I would like to note is that the two small panels (ignition key and power mirror/seat memory) must be removed before removing the black bezel or you'll end up breaking some clips on the bezel. I did just that and am not sure how it's going to affect the dash as in driving noise or squeeks. Anyway, will find out tomorrow. Also, the two small panels have metal retainer clips that pop right out when you remove the cover, so be careful and have a magnet ready to retrieve them. Thanks alot.
  • quaziquazi Posts: 5
    I have the same problem. It burnt out around 45k, and I did not get it in during warranty. I now have 101k, and it is a small but irritating problem. Still, I would expect more of Lexus.
  • pschiffepschiffe Posts: 373
    Would member slandy or mchen70 please post on this forum, or eMail me, the detailed instructions for replacing the lamp that are on that "banned" external post? TIA

    Pete
  • mikey00mikey00 Posts: 462
    Sorry for the confusion. I was the one who posted the link to the D light fix which in hindsight, I should not have done. It was removed and I was reminded it is against Edmunds membership agreement to post links to other automotive sites. Here are the directions:

    "Follow these instructions and it should take you no longer than 15 minutes.

    1. Remove 2 screws at the top of the black bezel around the cluster.
    2. Pull trim piece straight out on the left of the steering wheel, the trim that houses the seat memory switch.
    3. Pull trim piece straight out that is around the key.
    4. Tilt steering wheel all the way down.
    5. Remove black bezel around cluster, start from the bottom and pull out.
    6. Remove 2 screws holding cluster in. They are on the side of the cluster.
    7. Pull cluster out enough to get your hand behind and unplug the 3 connectors.
    8. Remove cluster from car, you will kinda have to move it around a little bit to get it out, be careful not to scratch the lens.
    9. Lay cluster face down on a soft towel.
    10. You will see a white plastic cover on the back, remove the 8 gold colored screws holding this cover on.
    11. Pull cover off, turn the cluster over and look where the gear selector letters are, on the oppisite side you will see 3 black and 2 green little cap looking things. These are the bulbs. Simply unscrew to remove. you may swap the park light bulb for the drive bulb. Or you can order one in advance.
    12. Put all together in reverse order.
    13. It sounds like alot of steps, but it is all very easy and understandable once you start."

    I hope this provides the info you need without violating any rules.
    Mike
  • jrdowneyjrdowney Posts: 96
    Could you provide the part number/name for this light?

    Thanks
  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 40,184
    Thank you Mike!

    Steve, Host

    Moderator
    Need help navigating? stever@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • mchen70mchen70 Posts: 9
    Wow, this is a long subject. The instructions posted by Mikey are excellent. It's exactly what I did except that initially I couldn't get the two small panels off, so I tried pulling the black bezel/trim from the top and sliding it down, DON'T DO THAT, because you'll end up probably breaking some bottom clips on the trim. I did, but so far it hasn't had an bad affects like dash noise or anything. I can only speak for the '99 RX because that's what I have, those two trims (ignition and power mirror) do pull straight out, but they're held in by metal retaining clips that'll probably pop out, so get ready to have a telescoping magnetic pen ready. To remove the instrument panel, you have to remove THREE screws. Two on the bottom and one on top, dead center. They're the three black screws that are on white frames. As for removing the gold screws once you remove the panel, you won't have to if you're replacing the 'D' light. The D 2 1 bulbs are accessible once you turn the panel over. Just turn off and turn back on.
    Now that I know what to do, it definitely would only take 15 min. or less. It took me 30 min. yesterday because I was fishing for the metal retainers.
    Good luck.
  • pschiffepschiffe Posts: 373
    Many thanks to mikey00 and mchen70 for the clarification. Is D 2 1 as mentioned in the above post the part number for these bulbs? If so, is this a Lexus or lamp manufacturer's number? TIA

    Pete
  • mikey00mikey00 Posts: 462
    D 2 1 is not a part number. It is the gear position you are in. I don't know of a source or part#, other than going to the dealer and asking for the bulb. Anyone else?
    Mike
  • pschiffepschiffe Posts: 373
    Thanks again to mikey00 and mchen70. I did the procedure today, took me about 45 minutes. mchen70 is correct, there are three screws to remove the cluster, two on the bottom and one on the top. Another minor clarification, there are nine screws which must be taken out to remove the white plastic cover. Anyone attempting this might find a Phillips screw starter convenient for reassembly. What I found interesting, when I disassembled everything; was that the D lamp was missing! I later located it in the speedometer cavity of the dash. The bulb has sort of a mini-bayonet base and the Lexus tech must have failed to rotate it sufficiently when they last replaced it, and thus apparently just popped out. It looks much like a grain-of-wheat or MiniMaglite® bulb with a tiny plastic twist-lock base. The Toyota/Lexus P/N is 83119-24670, list is a usurious $5.36, and it appears to be a proprietary item. I rescind all my comments in post 8119 above, the shop manual made the procedure seem needlessly complex, Edmunds is the greatest.

    Pete
  • mnfmnf Posts: 404
    Ok On my wifes Lexus RX 300 2000 the antenna is stuck or something. When starting or stopping you can hear the motor running but it not. If i go back there and gently wiggle it it go down or up. Any thoughts before having the dealer look at it on next service... Thanks for the information you are about to please me with :)
  • avery1avery1 Posts: 372
    Several months ago I had to have my antenna replaced on my '99. It was doing the same thing. I think it was $192. Unfortunately, I hear some grinding noise coming from the antenna again and I haven't had a chance to have it looked at. It is still working but I am concerned it may be going bad again.
  • mchen70mchen70 Posts: 9
    Just when you thought the dealers knew what they were doing... can't even install a light bulb right. Yes, there are several screws to remove to get the white cover off the instrument panel, but it isn't necessary if the light you're replacing is not P, N, or R.
    As for antennas, I think most people when they wash their cars forget to clean their power antennas. The grit and dirt that builds up on the antenna while you're driving ends up getting lodged within the sections during constant use and probably ends up breaking the whole mechanism. I've always extend and cleaned off the antenna during a wash and with three cars going close to a combined 500K miles, I've never had an antenna problem.
  • pschiffepschiffe Posts: 373
    Car washes in this locale, and I presume elsewhere as well, request that you lower the power antenna. Any crud present on the dirty antenna will then make its way into the mechanism. With the antenna extended, apply a light coating of Teflon grease with your hand to all the sections and raise and lower it a couple times. I use Super Lube®, makes it work considerably smoother and quieter.

    Pete
  • Soon after complaining about my key, being the one responsible for all of the "D" light posts, and reading about mnf and avery1's antennas, my antenna has now quit. The motor kept going and made noise for a couple of tries. Now, no more noise, and the antenna is fixed in the up position. It's so ghettoish!

    Maybe reading these posts gives my RX bad karma?
  • hpyuhpyu Posts: 6
    I have got my RX300 2002 for almost two years, and never tried to use PANIC button on my car key.
    Yesterday, out of curiosity, tried and it did not sound anything. But the lock/unlock buttons working just fine.

    When I have one door opened and press PANIC button,
    it sound an alarming sound. So is this normal or not? I thought it should work even I am far away to my car, cuz that is exactly when I need the sound to sacre off people stalking me to my car.

    Am I right?
  • mchen70mchen70 Posts: 9
    That's very interesting. The PANIC works with doors open or not. It's either a defective wire, or the CBEST was set that way.

    I've never had to use mine in five years, so don't really know when you would use it exactly.
  • jodar96jodar96 Posts: 396
    Steve, I think I found the right person....... How do you tighten the P/S belt after you replace it? The Alt has a nice bolt that does the tightening. When I took the RF wheel off, and looked at the P/S pump, I see only one bolt in a sloted bracket, but how do I tighten the belt before tightening that bolt.

    I don't understand why Toyota still uses yestertech for belts. Why don't they use belt tensioner? My 92 325i had two belt tensioners; one for of two belts, any more: one belt-one tensioner.

    Thanks,
    Joe
  • pschiffepschiffe Posts: 373
    How about an Instant Fan Belt Tightner from J.C. Whitney to tighten that power steering (or any other) belt:

    JCWhitney.com

    Pete
  • pkojpkoj Posts: 1
    I have a Lexus 1999 RX300 74,00 miles with what seems to be an engine booming problem, while the car is idling and is in drive or reverse the car makes a horrible humming noise and excessive vibrating occurs. I have been trying to research this problem and haven't been able to find out if anything has been done about the problem. I haven't seen any recent messages on this subject. My car is now out of warranty and Lexus is saying this is a common defect with no fix. If anyone has any information on this subject I would truly appreciate any feedback. Thanks!
  • I also have some engine noise on my 99'. Only 66k miles the dealer suggested changing spark plugs and the whole shabang 60k service. And its done. I only take my RX to the dealer for oil changes etc... but obviously they dont hear it. Its primarily when going uphill and when there is a little better than normal acceleration. Very disturbing, any advise anyone?? Also, does anyone know where you can get a replacement key housing?? Dealer quote: $179 for plastic.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    At those mileages it is not at all unusual for the honeycomb structure inside the catalytic convertic to start coming apart and then "chunks" will begin to partially block the exhaust outlet.

    Sometimes resulting in a severe power loss but almost always resulting in a cherry red glowing converter after a long climb needing a little extra throttle.
  • slandyslandy Posts: 46
    Lexus had a TSB out on 99 models for the a/c line rubbing against the body. The dealer replaced my a/c compressor 3 times thinking that was the problem. The Lexus came out with the fix about 6 monthes later. It kinda gives a booming, vibrating wierd sound. Call your dealer na dgive them yopur VIN and have them pull it up. I doubt it will cost much at all to fix.
  • pschiffepschiffe Posts: 373
    thickcommish can you be more explicit about what you mean by replacement key housing. Are you looking for a duplicate ignition key?

    Pete
  • bisbis Posts: 1
    I have a 99 RX 300 Lexus that has run like a charm. It has 64,000 miles and is no longer on warranty. Recently the check engine light came on and I took it to my local foreign car repair shop. The diagnostic trouble code that came up was: PO171 System too lean. My mechanics could not find any problems so they reset the code and sent it home. Two months later now, the exact same thing happened and they once again reset the code. They suggested that I either ask other RX 300 owners for possible problem areas to be narrowed down and they can repair the problem in a more inexpensive way or that I take it to the Lexus dealer. They are trustworthy, so I am asking for your help. I have read all the emails to date here and see that some have needed a new front oxygen sensor. Does anyone have other suggestions or ideas on how I might be able to narrow this down further or know for sure what is needed? This is a V-6 engine automatic. Someone else mentioned a check engine light problem without that specific diagnostic code that needed a new charcoal cannister. Can anyone give me help on the PO171 System too lean on bank one diagnostic trouble code for my 99 RX 300? Thanks a lot! Bis
  • pschiffepschiffe Posts: 373
    Here are the trouble areas for Diagostic Trouble Code No. PO171 "System Too Lean":

    • Air intake (hose loose)
    • Fuel line pressure
    • Injector blockage
    • Heated oxygen sensor malfunction
    • Mass air flow meter
    • Engine coolant temp. sensor
    • Gas leakage on exhaust system

    The Repair Manual goes on to detail an inspection procedure (beginning on page DI-54) to isolate the problem. Sounds like a job for a Lexus or Toyota dealer who has access to the hand held tester or OBD II scan tool.

    Pete
  • kwhkwh Posts: 66
    I was one of the people who posted about the front oxygen sensor. The car has run perfect since I had the sensor replaced. Do you hear what I call "spark plug knock" that would happen when I climbed a hill in low gear? If so I think it may be the sensor. That was my clue sonething was wrong right before the CEL came on. There are some real expert people on this board that helped me save a lot of $$ on this repair. Good luck.

    PS do not reset the CEL before going to the Toyota or Lexus dealer. I had to wait for it to come back on before they could tell what the problem was. The toyota dealer printout said the front oxygen sensor needed replacing. They reset the light & said to go to the Lexus dealer to see if they would fix it under warrenty.. Lexus said I would have to wait until the light cane back on so they could check it themselves. When the light came back on they got the same report as the Toyota dealer. Toyota dealer will charge you less if you trust them - they have done all work on my car except warrenty work.
  • If thickcommish is having the same problem with his "key housing" that I had with my key, it's the black plastic cover. Mine broke on the back between the screw and the actual metal. All I needed was a new back. No can do -- they only sell a new key. The Lexus dealer wanted $185 plus tax plus $25 programming fee. They said this happens regularly. A few calls and pleading to 1-800-Lexus finally got me a new key. (I was just out of warranty).
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