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Lexus RX 300

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Comments

  • bobfloydbobfloyd Posts: 32
    by listing my previous posts that have not convinced you. By the way, the HOST can take care of himself.
  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 40,011
    So, anyone want to talk about the Lexus?

    Steve
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    Need help navigating? stever@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    anyone want to talk about bi-xenon upgrade for their HID equipped RX?

    All it takes is a resister between the high beam voltage supply and the RX's level sensor.
  • fasterthanufasterthanu Posts: 210
    I have a 2001 RX and recently noticed a lot of squeaking coming from the rear left passenger area. It was pronounced when moving from a stop, and sometimes on turns. Here was my fix: sprayed a liberal amount of WD-40 on the hinges in the left rear passenger door - squeaking is GONE. Just sharing a recent experience.
  • rxlaxrxlax Posts: 13
    According to the tech Manual on the 667-Excursion, it weighs 44lbs vs 32 for the Playpen. For security and protection the box wins hands down but for versatily and space I prefer the PlayPlen. I am thinking about all those times I go to Home depot or Ikea to get something and end up dropping the seats and using the inside instead of the top. Both Box/Pen would be useless for a 150 lb entertain/center. But I am just thinking of what I would be putting on top. 12lbs is a big difference, thats a baby carriage.
    Need to figure out what works out best for U
  • ravlravl Posts: 129
    Man! Would it get boring! The dissenting voice is what gets people talking. Take it away and you'll see this forum dry up.

    Mr. Wwest, keep offering your opinion. I'm sure I get a few feathers ruffled when I pepper you with questions, but it's obvious to me (especially in your last post explaining your position) you offer a wealth of knowledge and it's up to me to decide what I want to accept and reject. I've always respected the fact you haven't allowed people to quiet your voice.

    You're never vulgar or rude. I can't even remember once you responding back with a mean tone to the class clowns who goad you. (I love you class clowns, too!)

    As to the moderator, keep on chooglin'. You be doin' fine.

    Just my .02. I like this place just the way it is.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    I would imagine the 75 pound limitation is a reflection of the weakness of the crossbars. Also remember that on a good healthy BUMP, or DIP, the resulting G-force might almost double the weight.

    I'm relatively sure that the limitation isn't due to lack of structural rigidity at the crossbar mounting points. So if you really want to put more weight on top you might want to look, first, at a way to re-enforce the strength of the crossbars.

    And thank you ravl, I really did need that.

    When we finally get that new search engine maybe I can refer people to past dissertations....
  • trmgatrmga Posts: 50
    My 01 RX 300 has 24,000 miles on it and I plan to keep it until it has about 100,000 miles which will be about 6 to 7 years after initial purchase. Am considering purchasing an extended warranty. Have never done this before but now that there is so much hi tech gadgetry I am concerned about repair costs after 50K miles. My '93 GS 300 has 125K miles on it and I have never had a repair expense that would have justified purchasing an extended warranty. Considerably less sophisticated however than the RX 300 IMHO. Warrantybynet.com has a premier plan that appears to cover it all including Nav system for 7year/100K miles at cost of $1,126. Very comprehensive plan. Same plan would cost $1,616 if I wait to purchase it when car has 48,000 miles on it. Anyone out there had any experience with these plans or have any thoughts on the wisdom of purchasing one. Would be interested in your thoughts.
  • ravlravl Posts: 129
    IMHO, if you bought a BMW or Mercedes, you'd want an extended warranty plan. But, you're buying a Lexus. A big part of their appeal is the fact they're pretty bullet proof.

    It would be a waste of money to buy the plan. You already get 4 years and a bunch of miles (can't remember the exact amount.) If something's going to break, it'll be in warranty. Again, JMO.
  • ravlravl Posts: 129
    Since you "own" a Lexus. I should have read more carefully.....
  • geewiz1geewiz1 Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 RX300 and have been looking for the trailer hitch wire plug or lead thats supposed to be in the plastic container under the trunk with the charcoal canister. Well I cant see anything there that looks like I can hook onto to light up my trailer lights.
    Does any one have any experience with this???

    Thanks
  • pschiffepschiffe Posts: 373
    I had to tap into the wiring harness on my '99. Used a Hoppy #46255 converter and 3M #804 Scotchlok self-stripping connectors. No "plug" on my RX, don't know about the later models.

    Pete
  • malhokcmalhokc Posts: 83
    I was some on ebay not too long ago.
  • ham1005ham1005 Posts: 1
    I am having problems with the airconditioner on my 2002 RX300. It doesn't get really cold. Has anyone else experienced this problem? Should I contact the dealer? Also, I moved from Seattle, WA to Chicago, IL. Any recommendations on changes to make to the vehicle (oil, fuel grade, etc.)
  • rerenov8rrerenov8r Posts: 380
    First, I would STRONGLY advise against a third party warranty-- there is just TOO MUCH incentive for that kind of company to deny all claims until/unless you threaten legal actions... At least with the 'factory backed" warranty their is the incentive for dealer& factory to keep you "in the family"...

    Secondly I would question the need/value for any extended warranty. The manufacturers go to considerable lenghts to ensure the vehicles' systems last well beyond the standard warranty period. Whether it is Toyotoa/Lexus, another import/luxury brand or even the domestics they ALL have a "factory certified used" program that can and does warranty vehicles till 7/years 100K miles. They can do this because the ODDS are great that there will be NO warranty payable repairs within 100K miles.

    Third, consider the cost of the coverage. Generally, the most prone to failure systems are the cooling system and elctrical accessories. If you had to replace the water pump it is proably about $600-- less than half what the extended warranty would cost, REPAIRS to an electrical accessory even cheaper -- (don't confuse the 'replacement cost' of the electrical accessory with the typical repair fee, a trick I've seen done many times when trying to convince of the terrific value an extended warranty offers...)

    I suppose you could say that the warranty buys "peace of mind" but I'd argue that your choice of vehicle is greater peace of mind. Simply DO NOT buy a vehicle with lower than average reliablity!

    Finacially the extended warranty STRONGLY favors the issuer. They make LOTS of money. That is why they can offer the warranty at all. Think about it, do you treat your car 'better than average'? If so the warranty should have 'fewer than average' claims with somebody like you. You would likely do better by depositing an amount of money equal to the extended warranty in an intrest bearing account. If any repairs are needed ODDS are strongly in favor of them being less costly than the amount saved up. After the repairs are done it would be smartest, from financial & emotional perspectives, to immeadiately sell/trade in the vehicle for a new model with new warranty and its new "peace fo mind"...

    FINALLY it is NOT SMART to keep a vehicle that was purchased new past 5/years 60K miles. Doesn't really matter what kind/make of vehicle (excepting collectibles) the fall-off in value & buyers is VERY steep after 5 years. While different vehicles may depreciate along a steeper slope, it is smart to trade/sell when the gap between what your vehicle would fetch and a replacement's cost is narrowest (factoring in what, if anything you owe to the lender). Simply put, get rid of your vehicle while it can still help you get into a new one. I would suggest that you graph out the rise in new model prices vs. the 'retained value' in your used model. Low miles are an overated virtue, as the model year is a bigger factor in determining value. Right now the spread between your used RX300 and asimilarly equiped 2002 might only be 3 or 4K. (If you have a loan you probably owe much more than that...) When the 03 is available I would estimate another another 2or 3K added on. The 04 would see the spread increase more 3or 4k.(If you have a 48 month loan it would be paid off too...) 05 might be a smaller add on of another 2 or 3K, but you'd already be 10K or more away from a new vehicle. The 06 might see a gap approaching half of your RX300's original selling price. I would suggest you "map out" the point at which you would feel the least comfortable watching your 'retained value' melt versus the 'purchasing power' towards a replacement... I have seen far more vehicle owners hold on to too long than sell too soon, if that "extended warrranty" makes it too easy for you to "hang onto" your RX300, it will cost even more...
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    The efficiency of the A/C in my 01 AWD RX300 for cooling the vehicle is clearly marginal on a 90F sunny day even here on the eastside of Seattle. Not that we even get any of those since it rains constantly here.

    There are a few things you can do to help. Take that "slider" that covers the sunroof and cover its top with the most reflective side of household aluminum foil. Add additional window film to the front side windows. Make sure all of the windows and doors are fully closed.

    To most quickly cool the vehicle after it sets in the hot sun "flick the temperature setpoint to max cold, over-ride the recirc function to "fresh" and turn the blower all the way up to more quickly purge the interior air that is likely hotter than the "fresh" incoming air. The cabin airflow exhauster is fairly restrictive so lower one of the rear windows slightly.

    If you happen to drive away immediately then the vehicle's aerodynamic nature will prevent most exhauster airflow so as Lexus states, lower the rear windows until most of the trapped hotter air is purged.

    Once the cabin interior temperature has reached a temperature at or below the outside world then manually switch it to recirc, close the windows and now as soon as you deem it viable (a learned thing) put the system in fully automatic. It may not seem so but the Lexus climate control achieves its highest cooling efficency with the blower running at its very lowest speed, the longer it takes the airflow to move through the evaporator core the colder it will get.

    And, in automatic mode while the system will continue to indicator "fresh" mode it will actually be mostly recirculating already cooled and conditioned cabin air.

    On my 92 LS400 I once disconnected the cable that meters the engine water jacket to the heater core and tired the valve off so absolutely no hot water could flow throught the heater core. Very hot day in north central MT that was.

    I don't know where, exactly, that water valve is in your RX but you might consider tying it shut for the duration if nothing else works.

    I find that the system works best for cooling on HOT days (it works fine in automatic mode if not capacity challenged) if I turn the setpoint to "max cold", set the airflow routing to bi-level, footwell and dash, and then manually monitor/control the blower speed to control the cabin's comfort level.

    In "max cold" position the water jacket flow valve should be fully closed if it was correctly set at the factory.

    You're now in an area that is famous for being both HOT and HUMID, so you might be amazed to learn that most of your system's cooling capacity is flowing out the condensate drain. "Squeezing" gaseous water into liquid form boils off a lot of refrigerant.

    And now, if you bought a dark interior just forget everything above, you're just simply out of luck!
  • learn2flylearn2fly Posts: 16
    I disagree with your suggestion to get rid of a purchased vehicle at the end of 5 years. For maximum ROI (Return on Investment), it is recommended that you should keep the vehicle for 8 to 10 years minimum.
    Typically after the first 5 years, you have no more monthly payments to make on the car. So other than regular maintenance of the car, you don't have any other overhead for another 5 years if you keep the car for 10 years. This outweighs any Residual value calculations on your vehicle.
    Think about this and you will realize the folly in your argument.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Worse than folly, totally irresponsible.

    Even my old Fords, 68 & 75, went 250K miles without undue maintenance costs. My 92 LS400 has about 80k miles, has NEVER been back to the shop, I replaced ONE oxygen sensor in all that time.

    Today's cars are an automotive mechanic's nightmare!!!
  • jeffmust2jeffmust2 Posts: 811
    Ham -

    We have a 2001 RX, black over black and reside in one of the hottest areas within So.CA, semi-desert. Not unusual to see 110-115 F. but humidity is, of course, pretty low vs. Chicago.

    Car cools down great if the A/C is operating properly, and yours might not be. So, as Zizzy suggested, have it checked - still under warranty at this point unless you racked-up 50k miles rather fast!

    As for other suggestions, I can second that one about tin foil being a major advantage, layered with shiny side up on top of the moonroof slider.

    Along with McGyver, the poster that suggested the tin foil trick, I've been able to pick-up radio transmissions from Mars, Venus, and Pluto - and the Moon telecommunications comes in so clear you'd swear it was next door!

    Let us know the outcome.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    zizzy:

    Didn't you just state, basically, that the automatic mode of the Lexus A/C doesn't work in hot and humid climates?

    Zizzy's "simple" thermometer test will be meaningless to an A/C shop. What they WILL want to know is the evaporator's inlet air temperature versus the "downstream" temperature. Like zizzy says you can obtain the outlet temperature by using "max cool" (NONE of the system airflow should/will be routed through the heater core) and putting the system manually in "fresh". The indicated outside air temperature will then be approximately the same as the evaporator's inlet air temperature. I would also suggest making the measurement on a fairly low blower motor speed.
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