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Lexus RX 300

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  • jodar96jodar96 Posts: 396
    I am sending this from Japan. I am seeing a lot of RX 300`s here. most don`t have sunroof or leather seats. All sold under Toyota name plates. Big time options here are Nav,electric folding mirrors, rear camera, front camera. Exteremly tight steets. Mirrors are everywhere. you wait your turn in tight spot. Gas is about $3.8 a gallon. I swear I have seen 500 different version of Toyota cars and mini vans. I can see how these guys` manufacturing is so flexible. they make 20-30K a year of one style and move on to something else.

    I went to a part store. aftermarket oil filters were like $25! after market NAV system was like $3K.
    rof
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    is where many Japanese go to buy Japanese products, cameras, etc.
  • peggyloupeggylou Posts: 40
    Went to get my first oil change (for me) on my CPO 2002 RX w/50K mi on it a couple of weeks ago. Asked about synthetic oils and they said they have a program with Castol Oil Syntec. I opted for hte Syntec Blend and went home and did research on INternet. Apparently Castrol and others are highly modified dino oil that has been "hydro-cracked" (whatever that is) whereas Mobil 1 is apparently the only "full" synthetic available in the stores.

    Has anyone changed over to Mobil 1 for their RX? Any opinions on value of Mobil 1 vs high grade Castrol? What about oil change intervals with Mobil 1? I really love my car and hope to drive it to 200k so want to do right by it starting now.

    Thanks in advance for the feedback.
    PeggyLou
  • slandyslandy Posts: 46
    I have been using M1 in my 01 since the second oil change. I currently have 122K miles on the car. I use a Toyota oil filter and M1. I follow a 4k mile change schedule. At 100k miles I removed the valve covers and the oil pan. It looks spotless, there was not any varnish or anything. If I would have been using dino oil there would have been alot of varnish at least.
  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 39,958
    Looks like the oil wars thread got lost in the software upgrade.

    I used dead dino food at 7,500 mile intervals on my '99 van. It's at 96,000 miles - wanna come over and pull the pan sometime Slandy? Want to make a bet whether it'll go another 100,000 too?

    Do what you like PeggyLou - I just follow the manufacturer's recommendation in my owners manual.

    Recommended browsing:

    Engine Oil - A slippery subject Part 2

    Synthetic motor oil

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  • dick1dick1 Posts: 21
    My 2000 rx300 developed a squeeky noise in it when you go back and forth with it. Does it need some wd40?
  • slandyslandy Posts: 46
    So.... Are you implying that dino oil is as good an oil as synthetic? I am talking about in every regard. You ought to have your oil tested at the end of your 7500 miles and see what shape your oil is in. I would imagine it is sheared and has no TBN left in it at all. I change mine at 4k miles and have mine tested every change. The TBN is usually around 4 to 5, and thats with M1.
  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 39,958
    It's a passenger car, not an F-16. I don't care if my molecules shear off in the first 1,000 miles. It's a waste, imo, to put synthetic oil in my car, and it's a waste to dump the oil out at three or four thousand miles.

    Especially when I'm mostly following the factory recommendations for oil changes.

    My cars lived outside in Anchorage for 20 winters and cranked just fine with dead dino too, btw. They went 10 and 17 years like that. I've decided it's not worth my time or money to do otherwise - ymmv.

    For those hoping to leap to a hybrid from your leased RX 300:

    "For those currently leasing either and RX300 or RX330, who’d hoped to trade in on the 400h, Lexus will extend their contracts up to six months without penalty due to the launch delay."

    Michigan News Network

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  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    And I would be willing to bet that during hard winter you always used an engine heater so the starter could at least turn over the engine in the morning until it started.

    But then you couldn't drive away until the power stearing and transmission fluid thawed enough to flow freely.

    I never had the experience of 90 weight at those temperatures in a manual.
  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 39,958
    I had a block heater that I'd run for 30 minutes to an hour in the morning if it was ten below F or colder (when I'd remember to plug it in the night before). Then I'd creep out of the subdivision before getting much above idle speed.

    I'd probably still be driving the '82 Toyota if we hadn't moved and hit the road for a year.

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  • mikey00mikey00 Posts: 462
    Well put, Steve. IMO there is a lot of money being wasted on "improved?" oils, high performance oil filters, and shorter oil change intervals which exceed the requirements of the task at hand.
  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 39,958
    Yee haw, now there's two of us against the world. :-)

    Ok, back to the RX 300?

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  • 1452314523 Posts: 5
    Took my RX300 2001 to dealer after brake light failure light lit on dash. Just turned 53,000 miles. They charged me 36.35 to replace ONE burned out bulb! Not covered under warranty. Is this usual or did I get scalped? Seems steep to me. Any ideas on self changing of next $2.00 brake lamp?
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    charged you at least $250 Canadian.

    How many Lexus owners does it take to change a brake light bulb?

    None.

    That's a hardware job.
  • mikey00mikey00 Posts: 462
    Funny thing, the same thing happened to my 2001 at about the same mileage. I took the bulb out with the intention of picking up a new one at the auto parts store, but the element in the bulb still looked good. I put it back in and everything is working fine. That was over 10K ago.
  • ejsjejsj Posts: 10
    I've been offered a price of $28,500 for a certified pre-owned 2002 RX300 with 20,000 miles. Is this a good deal or should I press for a discount?
  • 1452314523 Posts: 5
    How did you get the lens cap off? There are no screws that I could locate. I am ok with do it yourself, but the owner's manual is no help.
  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 39,958
    Our Appraisal link will give you a suggested price - there's a certified used car price given after you plug in the color, options, etc.

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  • ejsjejsj Posts: 10
    Thanks, Steve. The price I'm being offered is about $300 below the Edmunds suggested price for a certified vehicle, so I guess that's a fair deal.
  • My brake light also burned out. I referenced the owner's manual that said "see dealer."

    I opened the hatch and couldn't find any screws, either. Then I noticed that there were a couple of small black round plastic covers. I pried them off, found screws, and changed the bulb without much drama.
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