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Lexus RX 300



  • dr_skidr_ski Posts: 4
    I accidently let my key go through the washing machine cycle. It seems to work fine (remote lock/unlock/and starting). Has anyone else ever done this? Have you had any problems or should I anticipate any problems in the future? I don't want to get stranded.
  • pschiffepschiffe Posts: 373
    You may wish to get a quote from a Toyota dealer. Same parts and service, generally less expensive, but no quick and dirty car wash or loaner. You can also use The Edmunds Maintenance Guide to estimate the cost:
    Edmunds Maintenance Guide

    Pete :)
  • pschiffepschiffe Posts: 373
    I'd remove the tiny screw and cover from the key bow using a jewelers' #00 Phillips screwdriver and then remove the transmitter sub-assembly module from the key. Make sure it is dry and free of corrosion and perhaps replace the battery. Replacement is a 3 v. lithium coin battery: Duracell DL1616, Evereaday ECR1616, Panasonic CR1616 or equivalent.

    Pete :)
  • dr_skidr_ski Posts: 4
    I took everything apart and everything was totally dry. There is even a rubber O-ring on the battery cover door. No moisture or condensation. With the O-ring, I suspect Lexus thought about the water potential in advance.
  • lucian95lucian95 Posts: 11
    I have a 2002 AWD model, due for a 90K service. I'm aware that replacing timing belt is a required service. However, I was also advised by a dealer to consider replacing the water pump ($385). Does anyone have any experience with water pumps in Lexus cars, especially with high mileage cars?

    Thanks for your advice with these questions.
  • pschiffepschiffe Posts: 373
    I had the water pump replaced along with the timing belt on 90K service on my 99RX FWD last fall. I got a special package price of $989.95 parts and labor plus tax from my Lexus dealer which included:

    timing belt replacement
    water pump replacement
    drive belt replacement
    oil and filter change
    replace coolant
    replace brake fluid
    replace transmission fluid
    inspect AC system, ball joints, chassis and body
    check differential fluid
    road test
    car wash

    I was told the regular a la carte price for these service items would have been $1,488.95! I was also advised that it is cheaper to replace the water pump when doing the timing belt since the pump runs off the belt.

    Pete :)
  • avery1avery1 Posts: 372
    You should also check w/Toyota dealers. I felt good when I paid $985 at the local Toyota dealer and then found that I could have gotten the same thing at another Toyota dealer an hour away for $685.
  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 38,953
    The Edmunds Maintenance Guide says the 90,000 mile service for a FWD '99 RX 300 should cost $334.22 in my zip code.

    It looks like the 5,000 mile services run around $110 each.

    Steve, Host
  • avery1avery1 Posts: 372
    Does that include the timing belt? If I recall they don't actually recommend that in the manual. I think I did that at 120,000.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Anyone EVER experienced a timing belt failure in a Toyota or Lexus in the past ten years...?? Certainly don't remembe seeing any posts to that effect.

    Changed out the timing belt in my 92 LS at ~150,000 miles and it looked as if it would be good for that again. I don't plan on addressing the one in my 2001 RX300 until about that mileage.
  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 38,953
    The Guide included replacing the timing belt at 90,000 miles for the FWD RX 300 that I looked up; in fact, that was about 2/3rds of the cost of the service. The small print says:

    "The facility that services your vehicle may perform different, greater, or fewer procedures that can affect the cost you incur."

    Steve, Host
  • lkatkinslkatkins Posts: 1

    I am a new Lexus SUV owner. I recently purchased a 2002 RX300 and was very pleased with the entire process and feel I got a very good deal. However, the one item that's missing is the NAV. What I wanted to know was: 1. Would it be advantageous to purchase the NAV and, 2. What is a "ball park" total cost figure including installation?
    Thank you in advance and, I think I will never drive anything less :-)
  • pschiffepschiffe Posts: 373
    I don't know if this is available to be dealer-installed, check with the parts dept. at your Lexus dealer. The "NV" navigation system option, factory installed, has an invoice of $1,980 and MSRP of $2,350 for the 2006 RX330; for the 2007 RX350, invoice is $2,225 and MSRP $2,650.

    Pete :(
  • sandeep4sandeep4 Posts: 1
    I hear a rattling sound coming out of the engine / air conditioner. I think it must be some belt. Any ideas. It comes on for a few seconds then goes away..more predominant while idling.
  • avery1avery1 Posts: 372
    My RX has a growling rattling sound coming from the dash/ac area and I've been told it is problably a motor for one of the gates or fans controlling airflow. I have been living with it for a number of months because they say they have to take out the dash to fix it and it will be expensive.
  • mylexus1mylexus1 Posts: 1
    Can anybody from Houston, TX recommend where I can take my RX300 - 2000 for a little fender bender repair before my hubby notices it?
  • dick1dick1 Posts: 21
    Go buy a new car!
  • rick53rick53 Posts: 1
    I need to replace the tires on my 2002 RX 300. Not sure which ones to get - one store quoted my a Michelin for $200+/tire...not sure though is these are necessary or even if Michelin is a good SUV tire. Thoughts and experiences from others? Thanks.
  • la4meadla4mead Posts: 347
    My ’99 RX300 sat a few weeks at a time while I was not driving after some surgery. I kept the battery up, but now I have a sluggish driver’s door lock solenoid. I sprayed lube in the RR door latch, and it was cured and seems fine for months now, but the LF (driver’s) solenoid is sluggish, although the lock works correctly when latched manually or with the key. This is a recurrence of a problem the car had about August of 1998 when it was new and under warrantee, and I was dealing with a dealer whose many fixes on one of the first RX's were merely cosmetic, although this one lasted longer than the other repairs they made.

    I have the door panel mostly apart with the intention to either clean or lube the actuator and components, or just replace the solenoid if needed. However, I have not yet been able to remove the interior panel.

    I removed the wood switch panel and the screw behind (with some work!) but the interior panel seems to be hung up at the inside door handle.

    I removed the screw behind the interior handle holding the plastic backing trim piece, and knowing prior Toyotas, I am assuming that plastic piece needs to be removed so the door handle can pass through the panel when it is removed from the door. I just haven’t been able to find how to remove it without damaging anything. I tried prying it up with nylon spatulas so I wouldn't damage anything, but it's not budging.

    Is there another clip holding the panel at the inside door handle (or trim piece)?

    Does the trim piece behind the door handle need to be removed from the panel to allow the handle to pass through? If so, can you say how?

    Any and all suggestions and/or details are appreciated!
  • la4meadla4mead Posts: 347
    I hope this helps to alleviate some mystery because I think others have come across this problem. With the help of a very kind fellow Edmunds member who went out of his way and was prepared with a repair manual when I should have been, I was able to find the hidden snaps and catches. Also, I'm adding some information that wasn't included to save some frustration. I want to share this information in case someone else wants to have a go at it because I found out that the sluggish power drivers door lock solenoid is common part to need replacing in the otherwise fairly reliable car.

    The guy at the Lexus parts counter admits the driver's door power lock solenoid fails at a higher than usual rate as the RX ages; he said they went through six of these just last week, and the customer waiting behind me in line said his 2001 RX had the same problem, so he's just been locking the car manually. I guess no one ever got stranded because the power door lock didn't go on it's own, but I like everything to work right, so I wanted to fix it.

    You have to buy and replace the entire latch (lock assy 6904048020). The solenoid also contains the light switches & a window switch that's operated by the key from the outside, however Lexus does not sell the solenoid (power door lock actuator motor) separately. The list price is over $300! The parts guy was really understanding that I had another dealer already replace this item once and it failed again (however that was 8 years ago), and that I only wanted the solenoid which is not how it's sold, so he offered 15% off to shut me up. Needing the part, I thanked him and took him up on it.

    To remove the door panel, start with the window up and disconnect the battery because the lock solenoid will activate the window when the lock rod is moved, and that's when your hands/tools are in there. Besides the obvious screws at the bottom and upholstery pins, you need to remove the inside door handle "bezel" by removing the screw, pushing the tabs in at the top and bottom of the corners nearest the lock button and prying it out and toward the rear (it has a slotted clip behind it). That's what was really holding things up for me. Then remove the wood switch panel by carefully prying upwards at the very top with a cloth covered screwdriver, unplug and remove. Remove the screw from behind the panel. Then remove the courtesy light by pushing the screwdriver between the panel and the light on either side, so you can unplug and remove it. At this point the door panel can be unclipped, tilted up, removed, cleaned, and set aside.

    After the panel is out of the way, to replace the lock/solenoid assy, remove the inside handle (it's self-explanatory), and disconnect it from the cables. Warm the mastic slightly, and peel back the plastic barrier. Remove the bolt at the bottom of the window track nearest the lock. The track will move freely, and you can hang it up on the side-impact beam. Now the slightly awkward part: Remove the two rods that go from the lock cylinder and the exterior handle down to the latch (lock assy). You unclip the plastic clips at the top, swing them sideways, and pull the rod out of the hole for each one. Unscrew the lock using a #30 Torx bit, swing it sideways so you can unplug the two connectors, and remove the whole assy, including the two cables that go to the interior lock and handle, and two rods that go up to the lock cylinder and exterior handle. Now you are ready to replace it with a new one!

    Yeah! Now everything works like a new Lexus should. :) Thanks again Pete, and best luck on the new RX350. :shades: I hope it's just as trouble-free, except they improved the lock solenoids.
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