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Lexus RX 300



  • jiaminjiamin Posts: 556
    I don't understand why darlington transistor is used here, especially the emitter follower configuration, as LED draws much less current. Will a resistor in series with LED work?
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    For "repeating" the fade function. The 3 watt Luxeon LEDs ( need 1 amp at ~4 volts to produce ~80 lumens of light, 9.1 ohm 10 watt series resistor.

    The factory dome bulb draws ~1 amp and I didn't want to possibly compromise the "fade" device by drawing ~3 amps directly from it.
  • jiaminjiamin Posts: 556
    1. so an LED with a proper value resistor in series connected to the "fading" signal/terminal will not work well?
    2. will it be better to have two LEDs in series and reduce the 9.1 Ohm value. to have less heat and more light? Maybe your Darlinton base juction has dropped enough voltage and won't allow the 2nd LED in?

    Yesterday I went to Pep Boys. They only have color LED bulbs (red and blue) for direct replacement. I want the same yellowish color, or white. Yours are custom designed.

    Thanks again for all your answers.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    I don't know what the "rating" is for whatever device Lexus uses for driving the dome light and the fade-out effect. So the best thing to do was provide an emitter follower "repeater".

    In my case both Luxeon LEDs would need a good size heat sink and there is very little room for the first one, let alone a second.

    I do have applications where I use three Luxeons in series with a 3 ohm resistor. RV dometec refrigerator, RV door light (two strings of three), and RV step lights.
  • phil35phil35 Posts: 1
    My VSC alarm has gone off about five times always at the same curve on a local road. Scares the #$??# out of me!!!
    The dealer said it was tire pressure. This fixed the problem for about a year. Guess what, same problem, same curve!!
    Any ideas!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Do you always "push", accelerate, through that curve...?

    Sand or fine gravel on the curving roadbed left over from winter...?

    The VSC/Trac system is already handicapped in that in a turn/curve the outside wheel will be rotating faster than the other making it seem as if that outside wheel is slipping.
  • I'm new here, so maybe I just missed this in my search, but how does one remove the radio? I'd like to thoroughly clean the cassette player and modify the AM section for better fidelity.
  • ddkimuraddkimura Posts: 1
    If you still have the instructions in pdf format it would be much appreciated. I cannot find it in the archives. Thank you.
  • pschiffepschiffe Posts: 373
    Give me your eMail address and I'll send you a pdf.

  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 39,041
    Ddkimura has a CarSpace account so that email should work, and there's a place to attach files.

    Maybe you can convert the pdf to a jpg or gif file and put it in your Album (or make a Guide)? Who knows when we'll get the archives uncovered.
  • pschiffepschiffe Posts: 373
    How do I access his CarSpace account? Would I just send an eMail to using my own eMail client?

  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 39,041
    Yep, that will do it. Most people forward their CarSpace accounts I think, so hopefully it'll get there easily enough, unless the Allowed Correspondents option makes it bounce. In which case you'll find out soon enough and can try Plan B.
  • pschiffepschiffe Posts: 373
    David eMailed me directly and I sent him a copy of the pdf. Apparently my email addy is in here someplace.

    Pete :)
  • dstardstar Posts: 2
    Hi - I saw your post about the fogging of the head lights. I have read were people had gotten new lenses per the warranty. When I spoke with my dealorship I am getting the run arround. What did you end up doing to correct this?


  • jjpcatjjpcat Posts: 118
    Recently, I have problems in starting my 2000 RX300. After parking over-night, I have to keep my foot on the gas for about 2 minutes (engine at 1500-2000 rpm) before driving it. Otherwise the engine would shut down immediately.

    My mechanics said it's due to a bad idle control module which is a known issue for Lexus. He quoted me $350 to fix it. I am wondering if idle control module is the same thing as throttle control module? Is $350 reasonable?
  • mikey00mikey00 Posts: 462
    Very common problem. It's your Idle Air Control Valve (IACV). Cleaning almost always fixes the problem. Do a search in this forum for "idle air control valve" for info and procedure for cleaning. There is also a procedure on the net complete with pictures.
  • jiaminjiamin Posts: 556
    Today, I have got a worse symptom: Engine cranks but dies right after. I had my foot on the gas pedal a little, engine kept runing, until I released it.

    MAF sensor was cleaned well a few months ago, and my scanner showed no error code. I was told to look for some hanging loose vacuum hose, etc. I need you experts' suggestion what the most common areas are to look for.

  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Not really OT, read on...

    Four years ago we purchased a used 27" Four Winds MH on a Ford E350 V10 powered chasis. Our primary criteria insofar as MH vs TT was for my wife to be able to get up and move about while traveling as I am the primary (only?) driver. I can drive about 500 miles a day if it's in daylight. But at 60+ I knew I Needed food, coke, or whatnot after that first 300 miles to avoid getting drowsy enough that I yawned almost continuously.

    Part of the problem, equation, was that all of our other vehicles, at least the viable ones, are AWD, so if towed they had to be on a trailer, all wheels "up".

    So for that 4 years we have vacilated between buying a trailer for wheels up, and/or a TOAD, a new vehicle that could be towed all wheels down. Meantime we have settled for renting a vehicle at our destination. More recently we have considered the RAV4 initially but then the '08 came out without a stick shift. Have had my eye on the Suzuki SX4 stick shift of late.

    But on our last return trip, central MT and back, the discussion came up about the safety of my DW, VERY DW, being up and around while underway.

    Bottom line is we are now seriously considering selling the MH and buying a small, ~16', Travel trailer. The "usefull" portion of our MH is only 16' long.

    And now this is where our 2001 AWD RX300 comes into the discussion. There are a myriad of used (it is NEVER cost effective to purchase a new RV!) TT's out there in the maretplace wherein I can stay below the 3500 pound (supposed) towing capacity of the RX.

    The tow hitch from my RX was removed the first week of purchase and it has never endured anything close to rough service. Yet at 40,000 miles the ATF smelled and looked burned. I flushed it twice within 5,000 miles and am watching it carefully at each oil change. I strongly suspect the burned ATF is due to the same shift pattern change that was made for the initial RX production and it is that change that resulted in premature transaxle failures of many '99 RXes.

    So I am fully prepared, expect, for a DIY transaxle rebuild at 80-100,000 miles. At the same time I will be locking the transaxle's center diff'l in a way that the drive to the rear will be a solid mechanical connection and the VC will become the only drive to the front wheels.

    Should I go forward with this TT purchase plan the first thing I will do after mounting the tow hitch is add cooling fans for the auxillary ATF cooling heat exchanger.

    Now, the QUESTION.

    Does anyone out there have a substantial enough level of experience towing with any RX. 300, 330, 350, to be able to say if I am on the right track or not?

    We have put ~10,000 miles on the MH in those 4 years.

    65,000 miles on the RX, daily driver, since purchasing it new in '01.

    Any other options, modifications, to the RX that I should consider to make it more robust for towing a 3500lb TT?
  • pschiffepschiffe Posts: 373
    Make sure that your hitch is Class III - 3,500 lbs. GTW 2" Square. Some were Class I or Class II - 2,000 lbs. GTW 1-1/4" Square.

    Pete :)
  • la4meadla4mead Posts: 347
    We need to talk about the cooling fans on the tranny coolers again. I've been all ready to do this (remember mine is an early '99 with a late '04 Kyushu factory-updated tranny, and I added an additional cooler behind the aux cooler that came with the "tow package").

    Because of the limited space, I wanted to add a couple high-flow 12 volt computer fans to the ATF coolers in the fender(like the ones I use to cool the back of the refrigerator on the motorhome) and you reminded me of the project last time we discussed towing with the RX. I have two RX's to do. Mine and a friend's 2000 AWD.

    My question to you (or anyone else in the know) is about the engine fan relay. If I try to piggyback the power to run the computer (sorry, ATF Cooler Fan) from the engine fan relay, isn't the engine fan of "variable speed" design? Where do I go to get 12 volt output when the engine temp starts getting warm to power the ATF Cooler (computer) fans?

    Otherwise, I guess I need to make a trip to Pep Boys and buy a Hayden fan relay kit, one with a temp probe I can insert into the ATF cooler. One problem with that is there may be a minimum power draw requirement that the very efficient computer fans may not pull enough juice to engage the Hayden relay. I'll just have to hook up a big, bright TRANS TEMP light to it, if that's the case. So that's $100 bucks worth I'd rather not spend, if I can just piggyback from the engine fan relay without somewhere before the "variable speed" controller (or whatever the controller is called, if I can.

    P.S. Sorry to hear that you're still having troubles with your '02 showing burned fluid. And no amount of pleading with the dealer has helped with them accommodating with an updated transmission... I suppose you've already tried multiple dealers? You still barely have some powertrain warrantee, don't you?
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