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Mazda 3 Transmission Problems

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  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    Back in 1986, I taught my wife to drive a manual with our brand new Plymouth Horizon. Never had to replace the clutch and the car went 122,000 mi.

    Then I had a used Contour, that I presume had the original clutch when I bought in in 2000 with 70-80K mi. Taught my daughter to drive manual with it and later it became her car and she drove it until 150K mi and then sold it, never had a clutch problem.
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    He was pretty fast on the uptake; it only took him maybe 20 to 25 hours of cumulative driving before he was working on points for style (you know, starting from a dead stop up a steep hill with a car right on the rear bumper, and smooth shifting from first to second). I think my car avoided the whole burnt clutch/hot spotted pressure plate (clutch chatter). Now for my daughter; she turns sixteen in two years. :)
  • jylissjyliss Posts: 3
    Ah, but you see, it wasn't the only problem. I ordered the car with a remote start (if you did it after market it voided the warranty). The first winter I got stranded twice because the car wouldn't start. I am disabled and live in a remote area. Both times the security system went off even though I used the unlock button and it wouldn't leave that mode. I had it towed to Mazda and both times they said they couldn't fix it because they couldn't duplicate the problem. The next winter it happened again, as soon as the temps went below zero. So, I told them not to bring it in, to leave it out in the cold. They did and it didn't start for them either. However, the head mechanic wanted it inside and left it there for a while and it started! It seemed for all intents and purposes that the engine was being immobilized by the remote start. He decided it was the inhibitor switch and that my problem was solved. I told them it wasn't the next time it happened and they wanted to open a whole new case, obviously so they wouldn't have to adhere to the lemon law and replace the car. Again, they couldn't duplicate the problem. The following winter it happened twice. Luckily, it was in my own driveway. AAA got it started the first time after much difficulty. The second they told me I needed a new battery. I got one, but it didn't solve the problem and Mazda wouldn't do squat. Last winter we never dropped below zero (the magic Mazda number) so it was fine. If it does it this winter, the car's going and no, I will never buy another Mazda. The only dealerships are an hour away; it's just not worth it. By the way, I've found other owners with the remote start problem causing the car to not start and they didn't get any help from Mazda either.
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    edited October 2010
    I see, you have had a long history of disappointments with Mazda service, indeed.

    It seems like a common denominator in your posting is a problem involving sub-zero weather. This problem would be compounded if your car was not driven regularly; it would literally freeze being left out in severe weather over several days. The severe weather would cause the cold engine to fail to "turn over" (rev properly) and the remote-start would appear to not be working. I wonder, therefore, if a possible solution is to get a block heater (a device to keep the engine block warm during the winter). It is a relatively inexpensive device that can be attached to the car by any reputable mechanic. Alternatively, you may want to consider indoor parking.
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    Even easier; just drain the engine oil and replace it with a 0W-20 synthetic. Never again will there be a cranking problem due to thick oil, even if the car is up north of the arctic circle in the dead of winter.
  • jylissjyliss Posts: 3
    If I don't drive my car at least every other day, I at least start it and let it run for a few minutes. However, in most of the situations where the car has failed to start, it has just been running within the hour! I will unlock the car with the remote and get in. The car then responds as if I'm stealing it with the lights flashing and the horn honking. I disarm the alarm system and try to start it. Everything, interior lights, fan, radio etc, goes on except the engine. Once this happens, nothing will start the car until enough time passes or it warms up outside. Following the instructions on getting the car out of 'valet' mode or 'armed' mode is futile.
  • Honestly, I never had a clutch problem.
    My 98 Mazda Protege now has 174,000 miles on original clutch. My wife drove it for 2 years, then I, my son drives it now.

    My Civic had 160,000 miles when I crashed it but clutch was good.

    In 1999 I bought 89 240SX with 88K miles and bad clutch. Replaced the clutch myself with the part from dealer. Drove for close to 100K with no clutch issues and sold it in 2006.

    Had 1987 Nissan Stanza and @ 113K miles traded in for Protege above with clutch perfectly intact.

    I believe that bad clutches happen because material could be bad on it from part supplier. But 99% of the time it is the way people drive the car what kills the clutch.
  • I have a 2007 Mazda 3 with 14,000 miles on it. Because I have a motor cycle, my Mazda sits for long periods during the summer. Recently, while driving my Mazda , I get a "check engine" alert and it it won't shift to 2nd gear. I ask a Mazda mechanic and this are some key questions from him " did you ever have a dead battery"? yes I replied. He also said that there were some "Modual upgrades on the model". Any body have a suggestion on attacking the problem without taking it in to a dealer? and $$$$.

    Metzfr
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    I have a 2007 Mazda 3 with 14,000 miles on it.
    Is this a manual?

    my Mazda sits for long periods during the summer.
    Please clarify. For example, do you drive it in the summer about once a week or once a month or once during the summer?

    Do you tend to drive it short distances (e.g. under 10 miles) when you do take it out?
  • I'm curious if anyone here has successfully gotten the dealer to replace the clutch under warranty? If so, please post. I'm at 33k miles and my clutch is chattering to the point it is interfering with driving and I'd like to put a new one in. Dealer says its wear and tear and only up to 12k. My understanding is the friction plate is up to 12k, but I expect the rest to be covered as the transmission.
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    The best way of dealing with a premature clutch failure (something I've been noticing more and more now that most cars with manual transmissions use hydraulic clutches), is to hire an independent "expert" after you get the bad news from your dealership (i.e. the cost of the new clutch on your nickel) and have him or her opine on why the clutch failed so soon. I've only heard from two folks that took this route, and both of them got their respective dealerships/manufacturers to pop for a new clutch, pressure plate, and throw-out bearing (or whatever they call them these days). Everyone else had to pay for it themselves (although a few opted to have their car towed back from the dealer so they could do it themselves).

    Let us know how you make out.
  • kiepkiep Posts: 1
    anyone have any ideas why i cannot shift gears. I went out to dinner and drove there just fine. When Leaving, it will not come out of park. Is there some kind of lock i do not know about on this car???? I have a Mazda 3 2007.
  • You are unlucky but still lucky: under warranty. I have a 2008 Mazda 3 hatchback but with 65K mi on it (used to drive 30mi to work - one way). I noticed the different on 2nd gear about 2 months ago. Told my boyfriend about it, but when he drove it was okay. Last Sat 11/13, the AT light was on and off a few time, but it was on all day on Sun, and he noticed the different on 2nd gear. At least you can took your car to dealer because it's under warranty. I brought it to a good transmission shop, recommended by a lot of people. "Nobody is home on 2nd gear." the guy said "Not working anymore" . On the way to the shop, the car skipped the 2nd gear so often, jumped from the 1st to the 3rd one. Two technicians even said they definitely don't expect transmission problem with that mileage
    I'll have to pay out of my pocket now: $3,300 :cry:
  • I had the same thing happen in Oct @ 33k on my 2010 Mazda3. I called BBB. They said call Mazda Mediation. Customer Service called back instead, saying they couldn't do anything because it's "wear & tear" and a recall hasn't been issued.

    There are too many people with this problem for it NOT to be recalled! But the service rep said Highway Admin issues recalls not them. If enough people report it to Highway safety, hopefully this will get attention! I just filed a report this morning. I encourage you to do the same! They have an 888 number and a website:

    National Highway Traffic Safety Administration
    https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/ivoq/

    or call Monday-Friday (8 am to 8 pm) (888) 327-4236 TTY: (800) 424-9153
  • I had the same thing happen in Oct 33k on my 2010 Mazda3. I called BBB. They said call Mazda Mediation. Customer Service called back instead, saying they couldn't do anything because it's "wear & tear" and a recall hasn't been issued.

    There are too many people with this problem for it NOT to be recalled! But the service rep said Highway Admin issues recalls not them. If enough people report it to Highway safety, hopefully this will get attention! I just filed a report this morning. I encourage you to do the same! They have an 888 number and a website:

    National Highway Traffic Safety Administration
    https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/ivoq/

    or call Monday-Friday (8 am to 8 pm) (888) 327-4236 TTY: (800) 424-9153
  • ejhayes1ejhayes1 Posts: 11
    edited December 2010
    courtneyray, How much did you pay to replace the clutch? I'm going to be replacing mine next week. I probably won't go to Mazda, even though the car is still under warranty. Oh, I submitted a complaint on that website, thanks.
  • Check the color of the transmission fluid. Pull out the dipstick from the transmission filler neck. If the transmission fluid is brown, it is likely burnt. If it smells burnt, then obviously it is. Have the fluid changed immediately to prevent serious damage.
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    Uhhh, you do know that you responded to a post that is almost four years old; don't you?
  • Same problem here and dealing with it right now. 2010 Mazda 3 2.5 with 33K miles on it. Driving on the highway, tried speeding up and noticed my engined just revved up and then back down and locked into gear again. I thought, that's really weird. About 15 miles later, tried shifting into gear, and boom! nothing, I could easily push my clutch in and put the shifter into position but it would not go into gear....any of them. Dealership said it would cost $800+ to "diagnose" the problem & I would pay for parts if it's a clutch issue. I was upset, cause I thought this car would last forever with very little problems except normal maintenance. So I called Mazda Corp. they said they don't pay for a diagnoses but will pay if it's a problem covered by warranty. Here's my problems, Why isn't anyone questioning the fact that someone at Mazda Corp. picked a supplier that is making a cheap part that is failing and should be recalled and replaced with a better quality part? If Mazda Corp does not cover this problem I will be contacting the News and my good friend is a news anchor for Channel 2 in Houston! I mean really, I'm having clutch or transmission issues in the first year with only 33K miles on it. I would have rather bought a used BMW or Lexus. I'm terribly disappointed right now!!!!
  • Whose had problems with their 2010 clutch or transmission like me!!! I have a 2010 Mazda 3 2.5 with 33K miles on it. Driving on the highway, tried speeding up and noticed my engined just revved up and then back down and locked into gear again. I thought, that's really weird. About 15 miles later, tried shifting into gear, and boom! nothing, I could easily push my clutch in and put the shifter into position but it would not go into gear....any of them. Dealership said it would cost $800+ to "diagnose" the problem & I would pay for parts if it's a clutch issue. I was upset, cause I thought this car would last forever with very little problems except normal maintenance. So I called Mazda Corp. they said they don't pay for a diagnoses but will pay if it's a problem covered by warranty. Here's my problems, Why isn't anyone questioning the fact that someone at Mazda Corp. picked a supplier that is making a cheap part that is failing and should be recalled and replaced with a better quality part? If Mazda Corp does not cover this problem I will be contacting the News and my good friend is a news anchor for Channel 2 in Houston! I mean really, I'm having clutch or transmission issues in the first year with only 33K miles on it. I would have rather bought a used BMW or Lexus. I'm terribly disappointed right now!!!!
  • igozoomzoomigozoomzoom Waleska, GeorgiaPosts: 796
    I have an alternative for anyone who needs to replace the clutch in their 2004-2009 Mazda and doesn't to pay the dealer's insane prices! I discovered that the OEM clutch manufacturer for the 1st generation Mazda3 is a company called Exedy. Exedy makes a "Mazda3 Clutch Kit" which includes everything needed for a standard clutch replacement-

    Clutch Disk
    Pressure Plate
    Throw-out Bearing
    Alignment Tool
    Pilot Bushing
    Installation Guide

    Some vendors show the price as low as $163, but the only one I can comment on from personal experience is 1A-Auto. 1A sells it for $193.85 plus free shipping. I ordered it on a Tuesday morning and it arrived on Thursday before noon...and that wasn't expedited shipping, just the free shipping they include. So they're on the ball when it comes to getting orders out the door!

    My mechanic said the kit from Exedy and the OEM clutch he removed from my car were literally identical! He used the analogy of Advil vs. Store-brand Ibuprofen- same medicine, same quality, but one has a brand name and costs twice as much! =)

    The best way to find the best pricing is by using Google, click on the Shopping link and search for "Mazda3 Exedy Clutch Kit". FYI- Exedy warranites the product for 12 monhts or 20,000 miles. I've put over 15k miles on mine and it still feels like brand new...I hope it remains that way for a long time! =)
  • Ulternatly, If you find you have a Transmission Fluid cap.... then you don't have a standard and shouldn't have the ability to burn your clutch :D
  • rdmkrdmk Posts: 2
    My Mazda 3 2006 W/ 70K miles apparently needs a new trasmission. I started out with a shaking under the hood. I replaced all of the tires W/ balancing and alignment. Still had the shaking found a broken engine mount and replaced that. The shaking still occurred so I took the car to a Mazda dealer. they replaced the trasmission fluid and sent me home. still had the probelm took it back to them and now they are telling me that it could be an tourq convertor ($2,200 or replace) or it may need the transmission replaced ($4,500). They are not willing to help out because I do my own normal service work. not sure I want to try to replace the trans on my own. Any suggestions? now that I think about it does anyone have experience replacing the trans? are there any specal tools needed?
  • rdmkrdmk Posts: 2
    My Mazda 3 2006 W/ 70K miles apparently needs a new trasmission. I started out with a shaking under the hood. I replaced all of the tires W/ balancing and alignment. Still had the shaking found a broken engine mount and replaced that. The shaking still occurred so I took the car to a Mazda dealer. they replaced the trasmission fluid and sent me home. still had the probelm took it back to them and now they are telling me that it could be an tourq convertor ($2,200 or replace) or it may need the transmission replaced ($4,500). They are not willing to help out because I do my own normal service work. not sure I want to try to replace the trans on my own. Any suggestions? now that I think about it does anyone have experience replacing the trans? are there any specal tools needed?
  • I replaced the clutch on my 2010 Mazda 3s. I had to remove the transmission. It is not necessarily hard but a lot of the car needs to be disassembled first to free the tranny. its probably a two day job if you know what to take off. In my situation Mazda finally stepped in and offered to buy the car back as is.
  • 2006 Mazda 2 now needs 2nd clutch! I've driven a clutch for over 35 years and this has never happened! Is there any way this could be under warranty? I only have 39000 miles.
  • The warranty from Mazda on clutches is 1 year or 12,000miles. DO NOT make the same mistake I did. The dealership will charge anywhere from $1400-$1900 to fix. Independent garage will be more around $700-$900
  • I paid $850 at an independent Japanese auto shop for a new clutch and resurfaced flywheel @ 33k miles.

    I have since traded the car in for a non-mazda.
  • sasnitasasnita Posts: 1
    I have mazda 3 2004 automatic that changes the transmission filter to it and when it change of P to reverse gives a blow with a stone and leaves message transmission AT. They put the computer to verify code to him and it said solenoid A to me it changes to him both and it follows the problem. That it could be the problem
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    Speaking of transmission problem! To diagnose this problem someone will have to diagnose the message transmitted.
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