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Mazda 3 Transmission Problems

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Comments

  • GBrianKGBrianK Posts: 211
    Ok, I'm getting worried now... :(
  • esbnesbn Posts: 1
    I parked my car in my driveway (on a hill) the other night. After we had been home about an hour I heard cars honking outside of our house. When I looked out the window my car had rolled out of the drive way across the street and partially into another driveway. When I climbed inside the car the car was still in gear and the emergency brake was still engaged. This has happened before, but I thougth maybe I had left the car in neutral.
    Has anyone else run into this issue?
  • jylissjyliss Posts: 3
    About a year ago, when my car was with the dealer for an unrelated problem, they said my transmission fluid was dirty and they did a transmission service. Three months later, when my car was with a local mechanic for an oil change, he noticed that the transmission pan was pitted and rusting. He suggested I call Mazda. My car was one month out of warranty and, as I live far from the dealer and am disabled, I don't go to the dealer for routine service, so they said they wouldn't cover it. I brought up the fact that the pan had to have shown the pitting when they did the transmission service but to no avail. Now I've had to spend about $300 on a new pan and service because I started leaking fluid. I've never had this problem with cars I've had much longer or with the used cars I bought when I was younger. I'm very unhappy with Mazda and I'll never buy another one. It's a shame because it's such a sharp looking car and I always get compliments on it.
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    Keep in mind that it's your Mazda dealership that you're unhappy with, not Mazda corporate. The problem here is that Mazda (and all other manufacturers for that matter) only have so much pull with their franchise owners (the dealerships), and as such, some dealerships are better (often much better) than others.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    edited October 2010
    I thought he did call Mazda, though it is not clear, that was my impression from this: He suggested I call Mazda. My car was one month out of warranty and, as I live far from the dealer and am disabled, I don't go to the dealer for routine service, so they said they wouldn't cover it.

    Anyway, while it is unfortunate to have an unfair $300 repair bill, swearing off the brand seems like an over-reaction to me. If it were $5000 for an engine or transmission or something, I could understand...but $300 is a pretty small repair bill these days.
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    Anyway, while it is unfortunate to have an unfair $300 repair bill, swearing off the brand seems like an over-reaction to me. If it were $5000 for an engine or transmission or something, I could understand...but $300 is a pretty small repair bill these days.
    Agreed.
  • Yeah, I agree too.

    I can spend almost $300 on just routine maintenance at times. There are people here with several thousands dollars in repairs that aren't being covered fairly by Mazda. These are the people that should be swearing off this brand. $300 is nothing.

    Overall I like this car. However, it does look nicer externally than the internal quality in some regards. I think some of the Ford shows up in these Mazda's. To make a car this cheap now days means using cheaper parts. I haven't had any major issues, but I've had more issues than I had with new Honda's ten years ago.

    On a side note, any one replace the clutch on a 2004-2009 Mazda3 that can post the cost they paid (and whether it was at the dealer or an independent shop?). My clutch will need to be replaced in the upcoming months. (result of teaching wife to drive manual = short clutch life). Thanks.
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    edited October 2010
    "I think some of the Ford shows up in these Mazda's. To make a car this cheap now days means using cheaper parts. I haven't had any major issues, but I've had more issues than I had with new Honda's ten years ago."

    I'm thinking you need to think again; in many/most cases Fords of late have had nicer interiors (material wise) than Mazdas of the same vintage. When I bought my Mazda3 I test drove the Focus and the Civic; from a material perspective the Mazda had the worst of the three interiors (by a pretty wide margin, geez, even the Cobalt had nicer materials), but the best of the three in function.

    As if that isn't enough, next year when the new Focus comes out it will absolutely smoke the Mazda3 from pretty much every perspective. Said another way, I don't think you can lay blame for Mazdas corner cutting at Ford's doorstep.
  • Hmmm, I have a Mazda3 with just shy of 31,000 miles on it with the original clutch. Why is that surprising? Because this last spring I taught my 16 year old son to drive a stick and he was none too gentle on the clutch on many occasions (the burnt rubber smell is hard to miss even when I wasn't with him in the car). Long story short, if my clutch goes out any time before the 100,000 mile mark, I'll know why. Given the abuse my clutch received compared to yours, I find it amazing that it has failed so early on

    I wonder how your son's learning compared to my wife's? I taught my wife to drive manual on our 2008 Mazda3. She was very abusive on the clutch. The car is at 32,000 miles and just recently began showing clutch wear as clutch shudder when slipping in 1st, 2nd gear. The technical says the clutch still bites ok, but it will shudder like this until replaced. I expected a shorter life due to teaching my wife on it, but I'm not sure I expected it to be this short. Although its hard to tell right now whether the clutch is going to go out totally very soon, or I'll get another 6-12 months out of it. I was originally hoping for 40,000 miles with it, given the abuse it had.

    I've owned Honda, Subaru and VW manuals and ironically this is the only one that has ever needed clutch replacement. Its also the only one some one learned on though
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    Back in 1986, I taught my wife to drive a manual with our brand new Plymouth Horizon. Never had to replace the clutch and the car went 122,000 mi.

    Then I had a used Contour, that I presume had the original clutch when I bought in in 2000 with 70-80K mi. Taught my daughter to drive manual with it and later it became her car and she drove it until 150K mi and then sold it, never had a clutch problem.
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    He was pretty fast on the uptake; it only took him maybe 20 to 25 hours of cumulative driving before he was working on points for style (you know, starting from a dead stop up a steep hill with a car right on the rear bumper, and smooth shifting from first to second). I think my car avoided the whole burnt clutch/hot spotted pressure plate (clutch chatter). Now for my daughter; she turns sixteen in two years. :)
  • jylissjyliss Posts: 3
    Ah, but you see, it wasn't the only problem. I ordered the car with a remote start (if you did it after market it voided the warranty). The first winter I got stranded twice because the car wouldn't start. I am disabled and live in a remote area. Both times the security system went off even though I used the unlock button and it wouldn't leave that mode. I had it towed to Mazda and both times they said they couldn't fix it because they couldn't duplicate the problem. The next winter it happened again, as soon as the temps went below zero. So, I told them not to bring it in, to leave it out in the cold. They did and it didn't start for them either. However, the head mechanic wanted it inside and left it there for a while and it started! It seemed for all intents and purposes that the engine was being immobilized by the remote start. He decided it was the inhibitor switch and that my problem was solved. I told them it wasn't the next time it happened and they wanted to open a whole new case, obviously so they wouldn't have to adhere to the lemon law and replace the car. Again, they couldn't duplicate the problem. The following winter it happened twice. Luckily, it was in my own driveway. AAA got it started the first time after much difficulty. The second they told me I needed a new battery. I got one, but it didn't solve the problem and Mazda wouldn't do squat. Last winter we never dropped below zero (the magic Mazda number) so it was fine. If it does it this winter, the car's going and no, I will never buy another Mazda. The only dealerships are an hour away; it's just not worth it. By the way, I've found other owners with the remote start problem causing the car to not start and they didn't get any help from Mazda either.
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    edited October 2010
    I see, you have had a long history of disappointments with Mazda service, indeed.

    It seems like a common denominator in your posting is a problem involving sub-zero weather. This problem would be compounded if your car was not driven regularly; it would literally freeze being left out in severe weather over several days. The severe weather would cause the cold engine to fail to "turn over" (rev properly) and the remote-start would appear to not be working. I wonder, therefore, if a possible solution is to get a block heater (a device to keep the engine block warm during the winter). It is a relatively inexpensive device that can be attached to the car by any reputable mechanic. Alternatively, you may want to consider indoor parking.
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    Even easier; just drain the engine oil and replace it with a 0W-20 synthetic. Never again will there be a cranking problem due to thick oil, even if the car is up north of the arctic circle in the dead of winter.
  • jylissjyliss Posts: 3
    If I don't drive my car at least every other day, I at least start it and let it run for a few minutes. However, in most of the situations where the car has failed to start, it has just been running within the hour! I will unlock the car with the remote and get in. The car then responds as if I'm stealing it with the lights flashing and the horn honking. I disarm the alarm system and try to start it. Everything, interior lights, fan, radio etc, goes on except the engine. Once this happens, nothing will start the car until enough time passes or it warms up outside. Following the instructions on getting the car out of 'valet' mode or 'armed' mode is futile.
  • Honestly, I never had a clutch problem.
    My 98 Mazda Protege now has 174,000 miles on original clutch. My wife drove it for 2 years, then I, my son drives it now.

    My Civic had 160,000 miles when I crashed it but clutch was good.

    In 1999 I bought 89 240SX with 88K miles and bad clutch. Replaced the clutch myself with the part from dealer. Drove for close to 100K with no clutch issues and sold it in 2006.

    Had 1987 Nissan Stanza and @ 113K miles traded in for Protege above with clutch perfectly intact.

    I believe that bad clutches happen because material could be bad on it from part supplier. But 99% of the time it is the way people drive the car what kills the clutch.
  • I have a 2007 Mazda 3 with 14,000 miles on it. Because I have a motor cycle, my Mazda sits for long periods during the summer. Recently, while driving my Mazda , I get a "check engine" alert and it it won't shift to 2nd gear. I ask a Mazda mechanic and this are some key questions from him " did you ever have a dead battery"? yes I replied. He also said that there were some "Modual upgrades on the model". Any body have a suggestion on attacking the problem without taking it in to a dealer? and $$$$.

    Metzfr
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    I have a 2007 Mazda 3 with 14,000 miles on it.
    Is this a manual?

    my Mazda sits for long periods during the summer.
    Please clarify. For example, do you drive it in the summer about once a week or once a month or once during the summer?

    Do you tend to drive it short distances (e.g. under 10 miles) when you do take it out?
  • I'm curious if anyone here has successfully gotten the dealer to replace the clutch under warranty? If so, please post. I'm at 33k miles and my clutch is chattering to the point it is interfering with driving and I'd like to put a new one in. Dealer says its wear and tear and only up to 12k. My understanding is the friction plate is up to 12k, but I expect the rest to be covered as the transmission.
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